Get Ready to CNC!

This is a video based step by step tutorial on building a CNC Router
Home     CNC Products for Sale     R & D     Creations Gallery     About Us     Contact Us and FAQ     Site Map     Links      
Basics Read First
Step 1: Linear Bearings
Step 2: Joining
Step 3: Z-Axis Part 1
Step 4: Z-Axis Part 2
Step 5: Y-Axis Supports
Step 6: Y-Axis Assembled
Step 7: Z-Axis Nut
Step 8: X-Axis Stands
Step 9: Z Screw X Rails
Step 10: Gantry Sides
Step 11: Gantry Bottom
Step 12: Gantry Bearings
Step 13: Y Rail Support
Step 14: Y Rails and Nut
Step 15: Y Lead Screw
Step 16: X Lead Screw
Step 17: Y Motor Mount
Step 18: Z Motor Mount
Step 19: X Motor Mount
Step 20: Driver Part 1
Step 21: Driver Part 2
Step 22: Driver Part 3
Step 23: Driver Part 4
Step 24: Driver Part 5
Step 25: Power Supply 1
Step 26: Power Supply 2
Step 27: Y-Motor Wires
Step 28: XZ Motor Wire
Step 29: Heat Sink/Driver
Step 30: Router Mount 1
Step 31: Router Mount 2
Step 32: Router Mount 3
Step 33: Router Mount 4
Step 34: Software 1
Step 35: Software 2
Step 36: Software 3
CNC DemoP.COC Logo
Maker Faire Experience
Pecking
Torque Formula
 

Step 22: Driver Part 3
 
August 2, 2007
We haven't actually put that many components on the board yet, but in this video we will.  I'm speeding up the video to get more components into this step.  There are a lot of components on this board.  With that said, I was actually able to get the board populated in one night.  In terms of the video, however, it seems longer.
 

Step 22: Driver Part 3 - More amazing video clips are a click away
 
Today, all of the components up to the large capacitors get installed.  I also move the resistor network to the correct position from RN4 to RN5.  It was a painful alteration.  My usual technique removing a multi lead device yeilded a leadless component.  Actually, I was able to save one lead.  My method of removing a multilead componend is to first remove all of the solder with a wick.  Even though this is done, there is still a bit of solder on the leads to render the component unmovable.  I then use the soldering iron on its side and push all of the leads towards the PCB.  It usually works, but this time it didn't.  Instead, I got a little impatient and broke all but one of the leads.  To mend the problem, I add solder to the top side of the PCB (silkscreen side) into each hole for the broken leads.  Then I insert the resistor network with the single lead and re-heat the solder to create a solder bridge onto the broken leads.  I turn the board over to add solder to the trace to complete the contact.