You sent my my activation code which I have jealously, guarded on my Desktop till needed, now, unfortunately I cant get it to copy from Desktop to the computer and Mach3, is it possible to get advice on this or maybe a replacement that can be put on a stick then plugged into my Mach3 computer. This is how I have tried but when I open the folder it is empty. Thanks for your patience with me.

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Question #: 13389

Question: You sent my my activation code which I have jealously, guarded on my Desktop till needed, now, unfortunately I cant get it to copy from Desktop to the computer and Mach3, is it possible to get advice on this or maybe a replacement that can be put on a stick then plugged into my Mach3 computer. This is how I have tried but when I open the folder it is empty. Thanks for your patience with me.

Current Solution

The license file should be called Mach1Lic.Dat, you can copy it to a Mach3 folder on another computer and it will register the program.

Respond:

Other Possible Solutions to this Question

I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks
The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

Additional Information:
I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

Additional Information:
Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks
I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks
The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

Additional Information:
I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

Additional Information:
Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks
HAVE THERE BEEN ANY STUDIES OF POSSIBLE RADIATION DANGER FROM HEADSETS USED WITH HANDSETS CORDED TELEPHONES? I A TELEPHONE BATTERY-POWERED HANDSET. THIS HANDSET HAS JACK FOR HEADSET, SO YOU CAN WALK AROUND THE HOUSE AND YARD ON YOUR BELT WHILE TALK INTO HEADSET. EITHER OR HEADSET GIVING OFF RADIATION, LIKE CELLULAR PHONE? DANGEROUS AMOUNT RADIATION?
Headsets have been tested by the manufacturers and meet the current ANSI/IEEE standards for RF safety, the same standards that the Federal Communications Commission enforces under the Telecommunications Act of 1996. These standards place limits on the specific absorption rate (SAR) of radiofrequency (RF) energy in the body. Recent inflamatory articles in British press were not substantiated by testing in ISO-accredited testing facilities at Motorola. Manufacturers of cellular phones are required under FCC regulations to assure that their products meet the SAR limits on both hand-held and hands-free units. Further information may be available from the FDA or from the FCC. Ron Petersen, Lucent C.K. Chou, Motorola
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HAVE THERE BEEN ANY STUDIES OF POSSIBLE RADIATION DANGER FROM HEADSETS USED WITH HANDSETS CORDED TELEPHONES? I A TELEPHONE BATTERY-POWERED HANDSET. THIS HANDSET HAS JACK FOR HEADSET, SO YOU CAN WALK AROUND THE HOUSE AND YARD ON YOUR BELT WHILE TALK INTO HEADSET. EITHER OR HEADSET GIVING OFF RADIATION, LIKE CELLULAR PHONE? DANGEROUS AMOUNT RADIATION?
I have your Mach3 usb interface board and am interested in the relay board to turn plasma torch on/off. I have a different relay board that doesn't work, it needs 0/5v from output pin to trigger and the usb board doesn't put out 5 volts. Does this relay board need 5v on output or will work fine with this usb controller?
The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

Additional Information:
I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

Additional Information:
Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I have your Mach3 usb interface board and am interested in the relay board to turn plasma torch on/off. I have a different relay board that doesn't work, it needs 0/5v from output pin to trigger and the usb board doesn't put out 5 volts. Does this relay board need 5v on output or will work fine with this usb controller?
Hi my name is Robert I have Ordered and paid for your product ( ArtSoft Mach 3 CNC) through your associate with Amzon.com Account. Ordered on the 24 of September 2017 today's date is the 27 of October 2017 I have sent you 2 correspondence through Amazon with no response from you. is there something else I need to do to get my Copy of ArtSoft Mach 3 CNC software that I Have Paid for. ????
My sincere apologies for this. We seldom get purchases on Amazon and this order was overlooked. I will make sure we deliver the license to you tonight!

Additional Information:
Hi Robert,

Can I get your email address sent to phdroboticsllc@gmail.com so I can email you the license file. Thanks
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Hi my name is Robert I have Ordered and paid for your product ( ArtSoft Mach 3 CNC) through your associate with Amzon.com Account. Ordered on the 24 of September 2017 today's date is the 27 of October 2017 I have sent you 2 correspondence through Amazon with no response from you. is there something else I need to do to get my Copy of ArtSoft Mach 3 CNC software that I Have Paid for. ????
Hello. I'm currently building my first CNC router, and I'm powering it with a 3 axis electronics kit that was purchased through your site. I chose to get the Mach 3 USB Breakout board, but now I'm wanting to try to use Linux CNC to work with the computer I have available. Will that work with this board?
The Mach3 USB will not work with Linux CNC. You can use our parallel breakout baord instead (if you have a computer that has a parallel port available).

Here is the link to that interface:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay
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Hello. I'm currently building my first CNC router, and I'm powering it with a 3 axis electronics kit that was purchased through your site. I chose to get the Mach 3 USB Breakout board, but now I'm wanting to try to use Linux CNC to work with the computer I have available. Will that work with this board?
Hello, My friend has purchased the Redfly and I am helping him a little with it. We are both very new to CNC. I am using fusion 360 at the moment. This can tool path and create gcode. I was wondering if Mach 3 or similar is still needed. Is there a tutorial you could point me to that explains how to get the Gcode from the PC, via Serial to the Redfly?
Fusion 360 is a program that allows you to design in a parametric 3 dimensional environment and also provides a great CAM toolset. Fusion 360 will produce the gcode with the CAM capabilities. The gcode is used to move the machine in various ways in order to mill the material; however, software is needed to interpret this gcode and cause the machine to move according to the gcode instructions. This is called control software. So Fusion is CAD/CAM, and you still need "control". Mach3 is one example of control software for milling and is highly recommended.

Install Mach3 onto the computer that will connect to the redFly(CNC electronics), then configure the Mach3 parameters for the machine (motor tuning, plug-ins, inputs/output, etc.). Home the machine, load the gcode into Mach3 and the machine will move according to the gcode.

A word of caution, since you are new to CNC machines, make sure you familiar yourself with the machine and the movements of the machine specific to how the gcode is arranged with respect to the coordinates of the machine. Try with very simple gcode until you get a very good understanding of how the machine will move.
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Hello, My friend has purchased the Redfly and I am helping him a little with it. We are both very new to CNC. I am using fusion 360 at the moment. This can tool path and create gcode. I was wondering if Mach 3 or similar is still needed. Is there a tutorial you could point me to that explains how to get the Gcode from the PC, via Serial to the Redfly?
Hello, I have a BlackToe 2 x 4 machine. I was wondering if it could be beneficial, or even possible to install two motors on the x-axis (one one each chain drive sprocket). I am noticing a slight shift in the gantry with each reversal of direction. If so, do you have a kit or schematic for this? Thanks
it is possible to install 2 motors on a single axis but you will require another driver and motor, but wire it directly to the same pins on your breakout board. Also the orientation of your motor since it is opposite side of the original so getting it to move accordingly to the original motor it will need to be orientated correctly. The slight shift could be the cause of the rod not being completely flat where the set screws are suppose to tighten the sprocket to the rod, so sanding it to a flatter surface might fix the shift in directions.
Currently do not have a kit or schematic available.
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Hello, I have a BlackToe 2 x 4 machine. I was wondering if it could be beneficial, or even possible to install two motors on the x-axis (one one each chain drive sprocket). I am noticing a slight shift in the gantry with each reversal of direction. If so, do you have a kit or schematic for this? Thanks
I have a Blackfoot that was purchased in 2017, after the purchase we moved and I haven’t been able to find room for it... would you be interested in buying it back or trading for something smaller. The Blackfoot and computer have never run but I did purchase it assembled. Thanks in advance, scott
The blackFoot uses the same electronics and motors as the blackToe (2'x4') machine. The only parts that change are the gantry horizontal structural parts which may be relatively easy for you to change. We can send you those parts if you are interested in a smaller unit.
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I have a Blackfoot that was purchased in 2017, after the purchase we moved and I haven’t been able to find room for it... would you be interested in buying it back or trading for something smaller. The Blackfoot and computer have never run but I did purchase it assembled. Thanks in advance, scott
[575] Hi, I plug HY 220v spindle on the board. It work, but the is a unstable frequency on the spindle. I put shielded wires from BOB to Inverter, and from Inverter to Spindle. But the problem still there. I read that I have to put a Analogue PWM, is that true, or I have problem with my wires... Thank you
You may want to try using a ferrite core or an inductor in addition to the shielded cable. Also, make sure you are grounding the shield at both ends. Even though this is not high frequency, grounding the shield at both ends in a motor scenario may help. Also, try to reduce any parallel wire runs.
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[575] Hi, I plug HY 220v spindle on the board. It work, but the is a unstable frequency on the spindle. I put shielded wires from BOB to Inverter, and from Inverter to Spindle. But the problem still there. I read that I have to put a Analogue PWM, is that true, or I have problem with my wires... Thank you
I am trying to purchase a kit for our school in Singapore, and your site keeps refusing our corporate AMEX card. Can you help us figure out what is up with that? Are you not ship to Singapore or something? Our AMEX rep says that the account is authorised for this purchase from our end, so the problem may be with your site? Please advise.
Please contact us at sales@buildyourcnc.com so we can provide you with assistance on your order
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I am trying to purchase a kit for our school in Singapore, and your site keeps refusing our corporate AMEX card. Can you help us figure out what is up with that? Are you not ship to Singapore or something? Our AMEX rep says that the account is authorised for this purchase from our end, so the problem may be with your site? Please advise.
[422] I have a probotix cnc router purchased in 2014, used to run on linyx, now Mach3, WindowsXP, printer port, i would like to be able to use a modern computer usb, do you have something like a plug & play or control box i can wire this into, 2 Y axis, i lost my auto tool length when i switched to XP also, any help appreciated
You have motors and drivers that already work with your machine (unless the drivers are an all-in-one setup and not modular. I would advise you to keep your current electronics and replace the parallel port breakout board with a controller that uses the USB to operate.

Here are two controllers that work under Mach3, or Mach3 or Mach4:
Mach3 USB controller (works under Mach3 only)
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board
Pokeys57CNC full-featured controller works under Mach3 or Mach4:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

Alternatively, you can purchase a complete plug-and-play system or have your control system sent over to Buildyourcnc to modify the control system to use one of the above controllers.
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[422] I have a probotix cnc router purchased in 2014, used to run on linyx, now Mach3, WindowsXP, printer port, i would like to be able to use a modern computer usb, do you have something like a plug & play or control box i can wire this into, 2 Y axis, i lost my auto tool length when i switched to XP also, any help appreciated
Is this a problem with the tube or the power supply? The tube is illuminated but I don't get clear firing to the piece. This is a rastering work and I get faint results and then it will be fine, then nothing. Tube changes from pink to solid line purple even when vectoring or manually holding the fire button. https://youtu.be/rX5xZoM6_bk
If your laser machine needs to reflect off of three mirrors before it finally passes the focal lens, then I would recommend realigning the laser.

You might also want to see if the nozzle is hot. If so, then the laser energy is hitting some of the nozzle body and not all of the laser energy is exiting the small aperture of the nozzle. To determine if this is the cause, remove the nozzle and try the operation again to see if you have better results. If the results are better with the nozzle off, then realign the mirrors. If you are still having difficulty getting the laser energy to exit the nozzle, increase the diameter of the nozzle aperture.

If you are still having poor results, take a look at the focal lens and the mirrors for any debris. An unclean lens and mirrors are a common cause of poor lasing performance.
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Is this a problem with the tube or the power supply? The tube is illuminated but I don't get clear firing to the piece. This is a rastering work and I get faint results and then it will be fine, then nothing. Tube changes from pink to solid line purple even when vectoring or manually holding the fire button. https://youtu.be/rX5xZoM6_bk
I am looking at one of your electronics packages as a replacement for my excisting electronics. I have a old table top CNC that has a bad electronics pack, but the motors, and the mill are in good shape. could your system be adapted to work in this case?
Depending on the type of motors and connection type, you could adapt your motors to work with our electronic packages, but you will receive additional motors since our kit is complete.

Now you will have to take into affect the actual motors you have and compare or get accurate replacements(Ex. our 425 oz motor(1/4" input shaft) will have to be same size or similar entry holes)

Your Controller board will be the major issue, due to its wiring and processing manner, you can view the connections for our breakout boards to compare with yours! (parallel: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/)(USB: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/)
Email(customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further help)
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I am looking at one of your electronics packages as a replacement for my excisting electronics. I have a old table top CNC that has a bad electronics pack, but the motors, and the mill are in good shape. could your system be adapted to work in this case?
I buy a four axis kits and i connect all parts respecting the plan. The USB connector is using for électric alimentation of the When I want to activate the engine with the computer keyboard , nothing works. The current 5VDC since green light is on but when I check with a voltmeter each pin , then I see that there is no current. What's happening?
Depending on the board you are currently using, either the Parallel or USB interface board.
The parallel interface needs the USB cable for power(5v) and the parallel cord for communicating from the board to the computer and vise versa.
The USB interface board, will need a keyboard jog header made to fit the 12 pin connector(2 x 6). Making this connector will allow you to be able to wire it to a external panel, where you can use it to jog your machine rather than using the onscreen jogging.

Please contact customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further assistance.
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I buy a four axis kits and i connect all parts respecting the plan. The USB connector is using for électric alimentation of the When I want to activate the engine with the computer keyboard , nothing works. The current 5VDC since green light is on but when I check with a voltmeter each pin , then I see that there is no current. What's happening?
Hi my names is Minh Truong I would like to said thank you very much for your video I got the system mach3 working fine but one thing I can NOT set and config the digitizer on the board IN4 I am not sure how to setup because in the Mach3 pin 14 for digitizer Please shoe me hoe to set it up for the digitizer.
Can you send me a link to the digitizer you are using?
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Hi my names is Minh Truong I would like to said thank you very much for your video I got the system mach3 working fine but one thing I can NOT set and config the digitizer on the board IN4 I am not sure how to setup because in the Mach3 pin 14 for digitizer Please shoe me hoe to set it up for the digitizer.
I'm interested in purchasing your black tooth laser engraver and am curious what setup to get. I already have a cnc wired via parallel port to my PC. Do I need to purchase the black tooth laser with the integrated computer or can I just disconnect my current cnc's parallel port and connect it to the black tooth laser engraver? Also is the black tooth 110v?
If you have an existing PC with a parallel port you will not need to purchase the onboard computer system on the blackTooth laser cutter and engraver. You will want to purchase the blackTooth laser engraver that comes with the parallel interface (breakout board). If you have an existing CNC machine that is being used with this PC, you can disconnect the CNC machine and connect the blackTooth to this PC. You will want to have two configurations for your control software.

Additional Information:
We have a version of the blackTooth that is 110v and 220v. We generally determine which is sent according to the requirements of the customer and in what country they live.

Additional Information:
20

Additional Information:
Parallel Port Configuration BIOS settings and Mach 3.
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I'm interested in purchasing your black tooth laser engraver and am curious what setup to get. I already have a cnc wired via parallel port to my PC. Do I need to purchase the black tooth laser with the integrated computer or can I just disconnect my current cnc's parallel port and connect it to the black tooth laser engraver? Also is the black tooth 110v?
I have a blueChick 13"x24" or 13"x36" Desktop CNC Router Kit v3.0 (Timing Belt) that I've assembled but never was able to get it running. Can BuildYourCNC assist me in selling this machine? Do you have used machine offerings on your site?
We would highly recommend using our forums to sell you machine buildyourtools.com.
We currently do not have a page or option to allow our customers to sell our machines, you can also contact us at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com, for further assistance dealing with the machine and in regards to selling it.
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I have a blueChick 13"x24" or 13"x36" Desktop CNC Router Kit v3.0 (Timing Belt) that I've assembled but never was able to get it running. Can BuildYourCNC assist me in selling this machine? Do you have used machine offerings on your site?
Hello I recently read your site and have a question. I have a driver model DM2722A but I can't connect it to my usb controller due to the fact that the driver is not marked enable, but instead it is marked: mf-, mf +, alm-, alm +. I will be very grateful if you explain to me the meaning of the latter and tell me what should be related to "enable" Thanks in advance!
Not a problem. The ALM is rather self-explanatory as this is a closed-loop stepper motor and driver that you are using. The ALM (alarm) is a signal that is used to tell the driver/controller that the motor is not in the same condition that the driver expects. In a closed-loop system, the motor has an encoder that tells the driver exactly how many steps that it turned, and if this value does not coincide with the driver's outputted number of steps, and within a specified amount of time, the alarm will trigger so the system can stop and the workpiece can be salvaged.

The MF is simply a signal that tells the driver that there is impending direction and step pulses coming. If the MF signal is high, then that is similar to an enable signal.
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Hello I recently read your site and have a question. I have a driver model DM2722A but I can't connect it to my usb controller due to the fact that the driver is not marked enable, but instead it is marked: mf-, mf +, alm-, alm +. I will be very grateful if you explain to me the meaning of the latter and tell me what should be related to "enable" Thanks in advance!