Yes, you can find all of the instructions for the blackToe CNC Router here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/cnc-machine-blacktoe-v4-2x4

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I recently purchase the BlackToe v2.1 (4x8) at a local school auction. The table is complete, however, it is missing the spindle and came in 4 (four) separate pieces. Are there plans for this machine that I would be able to use to reconstruct and determine if anything else is missing.

I am wrong. They are 'X'ed out as not included. There was no notification of when they would ship.

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The White Ant that I've been waiting for arrived yesterday. Today, I discover that the three pieces associated with the extruder tip were not in the package. These are the three pieces directly under the word "White" in your parts page. And, yes, they were checked off as having been shipped. They weren't. I trust you will get them here as fast as you can.

That will depend on the controller that was installed in the redFly. If the controller is a pokeys57CNC controller, you can use Mach 4 with that system.

You can add a 4th axis and an ATC (Automatic Tool Changer) with the redFly system.

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Does the Redfly that I bought with the GreenBull in 2016 work with Mach4? Also I want to add a 4th axis and a spindle with automatic tool changer. Will this work too or do I need a new control board? I bought my CNC with a longer Z travel, so I have plenty of room for these. Thanks!

Yes, you can purchase the blackToe 2'x4' CNC machine kit without the optional table.
https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-blacktoe-v4-2x4

The 4th axis product can be found here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/axes-4th

We recommend Mach3 or LinuxCNC to control the machine:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/control-SOFTWARE-mach3
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/control-SOFTWARE-linuxcnc

When you go to the cart to check out, the shipping prices will be displayed when you click on the calculate shipping button.

The instructions to assemble the machine is on the product pages of the machine and parts you purchase. See above links.

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hello, is it possible to send all components of a 4Axis CNC in size of ( about 2' x 5' ) to Iran country without table and all required manuals and measurements to create and assemble cnc machine and table plus required software? i need total price for this request if it's possible for transfer.

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

If you already have a Mach3 license, you don't need to purchase another one. The license is connected to you rather than the computer. Mach4 is licensed to the computer, but you are able to have multiple computers for each license, and can be switched from one computer to another.

If you purchased the license from me, you can call (make sure to leave a voicemail), or email to get a re-issued license.

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[575] I have an older CNC (2018) which has been working fine. The Windows 7 PC crashed and I am trying to get operational again using a windows 10 machine. I will have to buy a new license for the Mach 3 so will need to get the interface board I have to talk to MAch 3. Can I get just the disc or is there a place I can download what I need?

By USB power do you mean the USB board? or do you mean that it is powered through USB but you have the parallel breakout board?


Additional Information:
I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

Additional Information:
I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

Additional Information:
I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

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I'm new to this and was wondering if I connected something incorrectly... I followed the schematics found on this site for wiring. I purchased the heavy gantry kit with the USB power option. All my lights come on and motor shafts resist turning but, I cannot get movement from Mach3. How do I test my equipment to see if I've damaged anything?

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I purchased limit switches from you mounted them on my machine and wire them to the breakout for using pin 12 and the ground on the breakout board, after a few minutes I got a message about a limit switch trip. Am I supposed to use the extra outport on the board instead of the ground?

If the gantry height is changed by, say 3 inches, then the z-axis front, rails and back (where the nut is mounted) needs to increase by 3 inches.

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Has anyone built the machine from the book plans and made changes to the Gantry to allow an increase in the Z-axis travel. If so, what dimensional changes need to be made besides increasing the height of the Z-axis pieces? I would imagine the gantry rail and sides have to be altered as well. Am i missing anything?

Depending on the actual items added to the cart, the price for shipping internationally will be high (ex. Our CNC machines/Computer CNC Systems) or low (ex. breakout board/s, cable, end mills, etc.) on certain items. However dealing with USPS first class mail it should be in the low cost shipping options, please try again at a later time and please check shipping address for any errors.

If issue proceeds please email us at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further assistance.

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Hi, on adding an item to cart and entering shipping information, the first class mail charges are fine, but the courier service charges are being shown to be outrageously expensive, in the range of 249 dollars for India. Are you sure this isnt some technical glitch?

We just received our new inventory of motors and that specific stepper motor ski came back with only one shaft. I’m not at the office to look at this inventory, so if that is true, they will all be single shaft. We may have other stepper motors with included rear shafts, but I will have to see on Monday.

If I don’t have the double shaft, we will provide a refund upon receipt of the motors. My apologies for this error.

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Hi, I'm sending these motors back today. As I understand you, you might have some motors from the previous lot still in stock, and these would be double shaft but otherwise you don't have any and won't be getting any. If you do have two double shaft versions of this motor please send them; if you don't have two of them please let me know--today if possible--so I can start looking elsewhere. Thanks, Ted Armen

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we just received two nema 11 stepper motors per our order--USR2-2, however they are single shaft, we need double shaft, I thought that's what we ordered. We're sending them back, let me know if you do have the double shaft version and I'll try again to order them. I notice the model number on the motor ends in "A", where the packing slip shows "B".

Dealing with our USB BoB, it is really similar to the MK1 board, but is also loosely based on their DIY board as well. We have not seen that much of jitters or jerks, that we have noticed here while fabricating and testing the boards. We have not heard that many issues dealing with the board about abnormalities in running, unless we have not been notified in regards to customers who have used them under continuous use.

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Its mentioned that your USB Breakout board is based on Planet-CNC's MK1 board. Planet-CNC on their forums mention that they've discontinued their MK1 because of a low buffer memory which caused jitters and jerks in the machine? Am I likely to face a similar problem with your board?

The E.Lu.5 Error code on your VFD is related to Low Voltage.

The recommended action is:
- 1. Check whether the input voltage is normal. (the voltage from the wall/breaker to the VFD)
- 2. Check whether there is a sudden change in load.
- 3. Check whether there is any phase missing.

Unfortunately, these three recommended actions will probable require an electrician to test the line going into the VFD.

Additional Information:

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I have wired up my 110v VFD and my 2.2Kw spindle and I get an E.Lu.5 code. My wiring is correct and the parameters are set to those for the VFD according to your website I found in a previously answered question from someone here. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!!

You want to make sure that the motors will be able to provide the necessary torque since there will not be mechanical advantage using roller chain. You will need a way to fix the chain to each end. I like to use #4 - 3/4" screws and #4 nuts. You will need a drive sprocket for each axis and a couple idler sprockets on each axis to serve as tensioners and guiding the roller chain.

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OK cool. I have NEMA 24 steppers rated 425 oz-in. Is there some rule of thumb I can use to guess if that's enough? I'm not planning to push against hard stock material.

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I have a lead screw machine I built from the book plans (i know, ancient history) and I'm thinking of converting the X and Y axis to rollerchain. Assuming I can configure my controller appropriately, is there anything I should buy besides chain, drive cog, tension cog and mounting hardware?

The CNC router build from book "Build Your Own CNC Machine" uses the basic electronics combo kit that includes three 425 oz-in motors is the kit designed for that machine. Here is a link to that electronics package: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/electronicsAndMotors-3axis-425-elcombo

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I AM BUILDING THE CNC DEMONSTRATED IN YOUR PUBLISHED BOOK 'BUILD OWN MACHINE', 2009. YOU SELL 3 AXIS ELECTRONIS COMBO, PARALLEL, FOR $390. IS THIS PACKAGE FROM BOOK. OR ARE THERE OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS. THANK YOU, HARY HOLSTEIN

Dealing with a 4' x 12' machine, our blackFoot kit will be your best option. Since our machines are only limited to the width but not length wise, you can add however much extra rail and roller chain to accommodate your extended length. Now adding our 4th axis kit (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/axes-4th) will be needed for your 4th axis (unless custom design is required).

These items will be the best requirements to build a 4' x 12' 4th axis machine.
Machine (either parallel/USB BoB): https://www.buildyourcnc.com/blackFoot48v40.aspx
4th axis: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/axes-4th

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Hi, I am very interested in this CNC Router unit [4'x8'], but from South Africa with our exchange rat [1$ =13,4 ZAR presently, make these kits out of reach. The plans part has been discontinued, but in our situation, would you reconsider and supply full plans and instructions at a cost? please let me know.

We are toying with the idea of re-introducing plans for some of our machines. Please give us a call to discuss further.

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Hi, I am very interested in this CNC Router unit [4'x8'], but from South Africa with our exchange rat [1$ =13,4 ZAR presently, make these kits out of reach. The plans part has been discontinued, but in our situation, would you reconsider and supply full plans and instructions at a cost? please let me know.

Identify the Control Signals: First, determine which control signals from the DB25 interface card are used for spindle speed control. Typically, these are PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signals or analog voltage signals.

VFD Configuration: Your VFD should be configured to accept the type of control signal your DB25 card provides. This involves setting parameters in the VFD that correspond to the type of input signal it will receive for speed control.

Wiring: Connect the appropriate output pins from the DB25 card to the input terminals on the VFD. This usually involves connecting the PWM or analog output to the corresponding input on the VFD. Make sure to consult the manuals for both your VFD and interface card for specific wiring details.

UCCNC Settings: Configure UCCNC to output the correct type of signal (PWM or analog) that matches your VFD's configuration. This is done through the software's spindle setup section.

Test and Adjust: Run some tests to ensure that the spindle speed is being correctly controlled by UCCNC. You might need to tweak settings in either the VFD or UCCNC for optimal performance.

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I am looking at purchasing your 2.2 kw water cooled spindle. I'm assuming it comes with the VFD. I have a rotary phase converter in my shop. Are these spindles 3 phase? And if so, can I bypass use of the VFD and control the spindle speed by the CAM software instead? Or is the VFD an absolute necessity to use on the spindle?

The dimensions of the optional table are 73" x 34".

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What are the dimensions for a black toe torsion box? The machine dimensions are https://www.buildyourcnc.com/FAQ/1178 but I do not know the required overhang. I assume the overhang needs to be 3/4 inch ...