Get Ready to CNC!

This is a video based step by step tutorial on building a CNC Router
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Basics Read First
Step 1: Linear Bearings
Step 2: Joining
Step 3: Z-Axis Part 1
Step 4: Z-Axis Part 2
Step 5: Y-Axis Supports
Step 6: Y-Axis Assembled
Step 7: Z-Axis Nut
Step 8: X-Axis Stands
Step 9: Z Screw X Rails
Step 10: Gantry Sides
Step 11: Gantry Bottom
Step 12: Gantry Bearings
Step 13: Y Rail Support
Step 14: Y Rails and Nut
Step 15: Y Lead Screw
Step 16: X Lead Screw
Step 17: Y Motor Mount
Step 18: Z Motor Mount
Step 19: X Motor Mount
Step 20: Driver Part 1
Step 21: Driver Part 2
Step 22: Driver Part 3
Step 23: Driver Part 4
Step 24: Driver Part 5
Step 25: Power Supply 1
Step 26: Power Supply 2
Step 27: Y-Motor Wires
Step 28: XZ Motor Wire
Step 29: Heat Sink/Driver
Step 30: Router Mount 1
Step 31: Router Mount 2
Step 32: Router Mount 3
Step 33: Router Mount 4
Step 34: Software 1
Step 35: Software 2
Step 36: Software 3
CNC DemoP.COC Logo
Maker Faire Experience
Pecking
Torque Formula
 

Step 26: Power Supply Part 2
 
August 21, 2007
This video will conclude the power supply circuit build.  We left off at the capacitors and now we need to add the next capacitor.  Two in all, and the capacitors will be connected in parallel.  This will give me a relatively nice direct current (DC) voltage, which is our goal.
 
In the last video, I actuall reversed the white and the green wires from the bridge rectifier to the capacitor.  I connected the negative lead on the bridge rectifier to the positive lead to the capacitor.  It's times like these you do not want to plug things in prematurely!  I caught the error and de-soldered the leads and connected them correctly.
 
 
You will see that I don't use electrical tape sparingly.  I use it to make sure all bare leads are completely covered very well.  I also use it to make the job of connecting and soldering a little more painless.  Electrical tape, just like duct tape, has many latent uses, such as taping the two capacitors together so they don't move around too much.
 
A fuse and a resistor are the next components to solder.  I gave you the details on these in the last post, so I will spare you.
 
I test the circuit at the end, siting on one cheek of my backside while tensing.  I plug in the bohemith, tensing my cheeks again with my face turned in the other direction.  I then preceed to flip the switch.  No explosion with the exception of my computer screen warping for a split second.  I also noticed a purple tinge of color to the same side of the screen requiring the need to degause.  The energy field of the transformer must have disturbed the CRT's ions.  That's ok, because there was no explosion, no fizzle, no snap... nothing.  Still suspecting something, I went ahead and picked up the end leads and tested them.  I measured a successful 34 volts output.  A huge relief!
 
A few individuals are interested in a bill of parts and costs.  I will concentrate on manafesting the parts tonight and tomorrow for my next post.  You can expect a list of parts with costs associated.  The list will grow to exhibit alternatives in parts and electronics for a wide variety of solutions.