I am having difficulty with the wiring on the White Ant. The latest electronics that I received don't seem to be anything like the book or even the tutorials. For instance, the three stepper drivers need 6 pin connectors and ribbon cable. How are they wired? There was no thermocouple wire included. Thanks,

New 3D Resins Comparison Table:
We've just launched a new, comprehensive 3D Resins Comparison Table to help you find the perfect resin for any application. Explore now and elevate your 3D printing experience with ease and precision. Say goodbye to searching all over the web for scattered information.

Livestreams Every Weekday at 1:00 pm Eastern
Join me and likeminded others on a livestream I host every weekday where I experiment, learn and discover. Topic for Tuesdays and Thursdays: CNC Discussion and Random Experiments. Topic for Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays: Microcontroller programming and circuit building.

Question #: 10076

Question: I am having difficulty with the wiring on the White Ant. The latest electronics that I received don't seem to be anything like the book or even the tutorials. For instance, the three stepper drivers need 6 pin connectors and ribbon cable. How are they wired? There was no thermocouple wire included. Thanks,

Current Solution

The whiteAnt is no longer sold; the information on the website is to support legacy customers. We have spoken with you and are sending the materials that you need.

Respond:

Other Possible Solutions to this Question

If I wired my stepper motors incorrectly what parts of the electronics will be ruined? When I turn on the power, my motors jump like they are supposed to but for some reason, the G-code doesn't seem to be moving from Mach 3 to the motors. Any help would be appreciated. Do I need to order new electronics or just part of the system? Thanks
The drivers have quite a bit of protection, so you probably won't ruin anything. You motors are jumping and that is just the motors engaging from getting power from the power supply.

There could be many reasons your motors don't turn. Consider these troubleshooting tips:

- If you are using our parallel breakout board, make sure that the step pins are set for active low (config -> Ports and Pins -> Motor Outputs -> the steps pins should be enabled and set active low)

- The parallel breakout board is powered (connect the USB to the computer using a USB cable)

- In Mach3, make sure you have jog enabled (a little green button at thelower middle of the page in the program run screen).

Additional Information:

Additional Information:
DS26
Click the link to add information to this solution:
If I wired my stepper motors incorrectly what parts of the electronics will be ruined? When I turn on the power, my motors jump like they are supposed to but for some reason, the G-code doesn't seem to be moving from Mach 3 to the motors. Any help would be appreciated. Do I need to order new electronics or just part of the system? Thanks
I JUST RECEIVED MY WHITE ANT AND STARTED TO DO SOME BASIC ASSEMBLY. NOTICE THAT THE 1/4 X 20 BOLTS WITH PHILLIPS HEAD NOT FIT IN NOTCHES CUT FOR THEM - INSTANCE, ON DREMEL MOUNT. AM SUPPOSED BUY DIFFERENT HEADS, GRIND ALL DOWN, OR ROUTE OUT BIGGER NOTCHES. 3" BARELY Z-AXIS MOTOR
BYCNC Response:
Please send a photo of the bolts and assembly so we can determine the problem. Thanks.

User Response:
The holes on the Dremel holder are 0.442" and the bolt heads are 0.483". Picture will be sent. In the picture note that the left bolt has been ground down.

BYCNC Response:
You were sent incorrect fasteners due to a vendor change. We will be shipping the correct parts to you immediately, and thank you for letting us know about this mistake.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I JUST RECEIVED MY WHITE ANT AND STARTED TO DO SOME BASIC ASSEMBLY. NOTICE THAT THE 1/4 X 20 BOLTS WITH PHILLIPS HEAD NOT FIT IN NOTCHES CUT FOR THEM - INSTANCE, ON DREMEL MOUNT. AM SUPPOSED BUY DIFFERENT HEADS, GRIND ALL DOWN, OR ROUTE OUT BIGGER NOTCHES. 3" BARELY Z-AXIS MOTOR
2.5A small stepper driver I received has blue connection blocks instead of green like on the last three I got. wow what a difference in ease of wiring with the green blocks. Please i don't know what the savings are but it's not worth it unless the price can be dropped as well. the green blocks have a "chute" style guide for each wire which keeps it under the metal tab while tightening.
From time to time we change providers of components for various reasons. I just spoke to our assembler and electronics employee to determine if he witnessed the same issues. He said they work, but are not as easy to use as the previous terminal block. We will make sure not to use this provider anymore and will search for a better quality terminal block.

Additional Information:
Boom thats the answer. Your quick and thorough response and dedication to correcting the problem is why i choose to do business with you and encourage others to do the same!

Additional Information:
Thank you for that kind response!

Additional Information:

Additional Information:

Additional Information:
Click the link to add information to this solution:
2.5A small stepper driver I received has blue connection blocks instead of green like on the last three I got. wow what a difference in ease of wiring with the green blocks. Please i don't know what the savings are but it's not worth it unless the price can be dropped as well. the green blocks have a "chute" style guide for each wire which keeps it under the metal tab while tightening.
I just received my White Ant and started to do some basic assembly. I notice that the 1/4 x 20 bolts with Phillips head do not fit in the notches cut for them - for instance, on the Dremel mount. Am I supposed to buy bolts with different heads, grind them all down, or route out bigger notches. The 3" bolts barely fit in the Z-axis motor mount.
BYCNC Response:
Please send a photo of the bolts and assembly so we can determine the problem. Thanks.

User Response:
The holes on the Dremel holder are 0.442" and the bolt heads are 0.483". Picture will be sent. In the picture note that the left bolt has been ground down.

BYCNC Response:
You were sent incorrect fasteners due to a vendor change. We will be shipping the correct parts to you immediately, and thank you for letting us know about this mistake.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I just received my White Ant and started to do some basic assembly. I notice that the 1/4 x 20 bolts with Phillips head do not fit in the notches cut for them - for instance, on the Dremel mount. Am I supposed to buy bolts with different heads, grind them all down, or route out bigger notches. The 3" bolts barely fit in the Z-axis motor mount.
I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.
Modifying the Z-axis to accommodate a larger motor will be a worth while task and is possible, however we have not calibrated the z-axis therefore using the 1600 Steps-per inch in the motor tuning on our machine in our shop. We have not noticed any significant depth increments from not calibrating the z-axis but only from zeroing the z axis too close to the material. Also in your design did you specify the actual depth and the length of tool (end mill/ bit) that you are using?
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.
I would like to build the 2’x 4’ blackToe2x4v40 CNC router. I have your book. I want to build the latest model blackToe2x4 v40. Are those the correct plans on your web book page ? Is there a bill of materials? If I use a Porter Cable 3-3/4 router motor what size stepper motors do I need?
The blackToe 2'x4' cnc machine is sold as a kit only. We offer plans for the scratch (book) build machine that can be found here for purchase and also comes with a DVD showing the build process: http://www.buildyourcnc.com/cnckitintro.aspx and the plans for build in the book is on the CNC book page: http://www.buildyourcnc.com/Book.aspx.

You can use the same size stepping motors referenced in the book: http://www.buildyourcnc.com/category/elcombo
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I would like to build the 2’x 4’ blackToe2x4v40 CNC router. I have your book. I want to build the latest model blackToe2x4 v40. Are those the correct plans on your web book page ? Is there a bill of materials? If I use a Porter Cable 3-3/4 router motor what size stepper motors do I need?
I connected the electronics (for 2 x 4 feet) that I ordered from you. But how do I check if I connected all the wiring properly. There is neither any light on motor drivers nor on breakout board. And the motor shaft also does not move before and after the power supply is given.
Did you connect the USB connector to the breakout board?

Additional Information:
YES I CONNECTED THE USB TO THE BREAKOUT BOARD
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I connected the electronics (for 2 x 4 feet) that I ordered from you. But how do I check if I connected all the wiring properly. There is neither any light on motor drivers nor on breakout board. And the motor shaft also does not move before and after the power supply is given.
How do I know how to hook up the red fly? What color wires do I solder on which pin of the connectors? Was there suppose to be any instructions that came with it, or the entire greenbull for that matter?
The greenBull instructions are found on our website. Each machine has a page, which you can locate by clicking on "CNC Machines" from the left hand menu and choosing the particular machine you have. Scroll to the bottom of that machine page and you will find complete instructions. The page for the greenBull 5X, for example, is : https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-greenBull-v4-5X

The redFly is typically sold with motors already wired to conductor cable with 4-pin connectors; these need simply to be plugged into the control box. There is no soldering required. If you have a different configuration, please contact us directly at techsupport@buildyourcnc.com with information about your specific application (and a photo, if possible) and we will be happy to provide you with further guidance.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
How do I know how to hook up the red fly? What color wires do I solder on which pin of the connectors? Was there suppose to be any instructions that came with it, or the entire greenbull for that matter?
I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?
Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?
The electronics package I just bought from you (Book Build) is different from your wireing diagrams and video tutorials. Is there an updated wiring diagram available? Is the USB port on the breakout board connected directly to the computer USB to supply 5 volts? Thank you.
For our parallel breakout board (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/) the schematic will show the connections going from the BB to the drivers. The parallel breakout board uses the 25 pin parallel connection to communicate from the computer to drivers, and the USB is used to power the main-board itself, supplying 5V.

Additional Information:

Additional Information:

Additional Information:
Click the link to add information to this solution:
The electronics package I just bought from you (Book Build) is different from your wireing diagrams and video tutorials. Is there an updated wiring diagram available? Is the USB port on the breakout board connected directly to the computer USB to supply 5 volts? Thank you.
I received the electronics for book build cnc machine. I need to know how much weight the z-axis motor can hold since my (craftsman) router seems to be heavy. It is 2HP with variable speed
The motor is helped by the mechanical leverage of the screw. The 425 oz-in motors that are included in the standard electronics combo has very high torque for that type of machine. You will have no problem using that motor for the book machine.

We use that motor for very heavy spindles on the blackToe and blackFoot CNC Machine kits.

You will need to do the mechanical leverage calculation along with the torque of the motor to determine the actual weight it will lift. The calculation will need to consider the type and pitch of the screw and it would also consider the gravity constant of 9.8 m/s/s.

If you need me to determine this formula and work out the calculation based on the screw you are using, please let me know.

Additional Information:
thank you for the reply. I would be really good to know the calculation. The lead screw is 1/2" diameter with 13 TPI. Please provide the calculation. And one more question. If I am cutting 18mm MDF with 6mm cutting bit (so 6mm pass), what can be the maximum speed rate of cutting and spindle speed of router?
thank you
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I received the electronics for book build cnc machine. I need to know how much weight the z-axis motor can hold since my (craftsman) router seems to be heavy. It is 2HP with variable speed
I just finished building my first CNC with the electronics I purchased from you and I am already thinking about improving it. I would like to build a 2 motor X axis solution. Is it possible to attach 2 parallel motors and drivers to the BlueBrew Breakout Board? If so, how?
Attaching two motors in parallel is possible, but you will need another motor and driver for the opposite side. Each motor must have its own driver to work accordingly and fluently. The two can be wired together, to the same pins on your breakout board and set the dip switches on the driver to match the ones on your x-axis(ex). But remember to view the orientation of the motor and which way it spins, since it is on the opposite side it will have to be orientated correctly to move in sync with the other motor.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I just finished building my first CNC with the electronics I purchased from you and I am already thinking about improving it. I would like to build a 2 motor X axis solution. Is it possible to attach 2 parallel motors and drivers to the BlueBrew Breakout Board? If so, how?
Hello! Question about the x motor on the vlxl. There is no black lead. Is the yellow in its position? Also, I really just want to double check that this wiring diagram is solid. About to finish the wiring. Juan told me to use the 36V for the tube and 24 for the drivers. Correct?
The stepper motor on the X axis on the VLXL is this motor here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-nema34-651ozin

There is no black lead on that motor and the connection diagram can be found here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM86HT80-5504B-U(inhouse%20PN.85BYGH450A-47-80)%20(1).pdf

Red - A+
Green - A-
Yellow - B+
Blue - B-

The wiring diagram on the instructions for the Vertical Laser XL is meant as a general guide for all laser systems. The motor specific to the axis should be checked against the datasheet to insure proper wiring.

The 24V power supply should be connected to the laser controller. The 36V power supply should be connected to the drivers to power the motion electronics.

Additional Information:
My fault. Must have had that backwards. I'm sure he told me the right way.

Additional Information:
Not a problem. The laser controller has two terminals labeled for the 24V connection.

The 36V power supply works really well for stepper motor drivers as the voltage/current on this power supply allows for best stepper motor performance with this laser application.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
Hello! Question about the x motor on the vlxl. There is no black lead. Is the yellow in its position? Also, I really just want to double check that this wiring diagram is solid. About to finish the wiring. Juan told me to use the 36V for the tube and 24 for the drivers. Correct?
I bought the Mach3 board and am trying to connect it with an AMB 1400 DI router, which has a normal power supply (1400W) as well as a digital interface which has three wires: a brown wire (10-26V, power supply), a white wire (ground) and a green wire (0-10V signal). I'm no electronics guy--how do I connect the digital interface of the AMB to the Mach3 board?
The Mach3 USB controller requires a minimum of 12V and a maximum of 24V to the DCM and 24V terminals. The DCM is the GND or DC negative terminal, and the 24V terminal is the positive terminal.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I bought the Mach3 board and am trying to connect it with an AMB 1400 DI router, which has a normal power supply (1400W) as well as a digital interface which has three wires: a brown wire (10-26V, power supply), a white wire (ground) and a green wire (0-10V signal). I'm no electronics guy--how do I connect the digital interface of the AMB to the Mach3 board?
Provided they will fit and I install a ventilation/cooling fan, is there any reason why I should NOT mount the electronics (breakout board, stepper drivers and power supply) inside the gantry box in my BlackToe 2x4?
First, see Jack's build: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/JackRehak.aspx

The difference between mounting the electronics in the gantry is that the connection from the computer (signal level) is long. The alternative, where the electronics is near the computer, the motor cables are long (to reach from the drivers to the motors).

Mounting the breakout board, drivers and power supply within the gantry will cause you to have a long signal connection from the computer to the breakout board. That is fine as long as the cable is long enough, possibly shielded, and can carry the signal at long cable lengths. Make sure to have the cable well away from the motor cables as these will cause quite a bit of interference.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
Provided they will fit and I install a ventilation/cooling fan, is there any reason why I should NOT mount the electronics (breakout board, stepper drivers and power supply) inside the gantry box in my BlackToe 2x4?
received my mach 3 USB breakout board today. The layout of the board is different from your diagram which shows a 5V power slot for each axis. Do I wire the 5V slot with only one 5V wire from one of the drivers or perhaps wire all three 5V wires into the one 5 V slot. Please advise.
The board layout is different and the terminals have slightly different names, but the two boards function the same. The wiring diagram is the same for both boards. The plug-in driver for Mach3 is also the same, so you should not have a problem. If you do run into an issue, please let me know here and I will help you determine the problem.

Thanks

Additional Information:
Thank you for the assurance that the boards will function the same. You did not answer the primary question of wiring. The diagram shows a board with a 5V for each axis, the new boards have only 1 5V point on the axis side. In retrospect since this controller receives information and most possibly the 5V signal directly from the computer leading to the drivers. I will wire the X, Y and Z axis to the single 5V point and see what happens.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
received my mach 3 USB breakout board today. The layout of the board is different from your diagram which shows a 5V power slot for each axis. Do I wire the 5V slot with only one 5V wire from one of the drivers or perhaps wire all three 5V wires into the one 5 V slot. Please advise.
I need wiring instructions for the breakout board you sent yesterday. It is not like the one in the videos and I don't know where to connect the 5V. No data sheet or anything.
The datasheet for the parallel breakout board is here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/

The datasheet for the USB interface is here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/

Additional Information:
20
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I need wiring instructions for the breakout board you sent yesterday. It is not like the one in the videos and I don't know where to connect the 5V. No data sheet or anything.
The White Ant that I've been waiting for arrived yesterday. Today, I discover that the three pieces associated with the extruder tip were not in the package. These are the three pieces directly under the word "White" in your parts page. And, yes, they were checked off as having been shipped. They weren't. I trust you will get them here as fast as you can.
I am wrong. They are 'X'ed out as not included. There was no notification of when they would ship.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
The White Ant that I've been waiting for arrived yesterday. Today, I discover that the three pieces associated with the extruder tip were not in the package. These are the three pieces directly under the word "White" in your parts page. And, yes, they were checked off as having been shipped. They weren't. I trust you will get them here as fast as you can.
I purchased the driver boards and MB shield for the White Ant. None of the headers are labeled. Is there a diagram showing which headers is for which axis? Is there also a diagram showing which pin on the driver is ABCD? I have watched the vids and the boards in them do not match what was sent to me.
The axis and connection information for the 3D Printer Main Board can be found here in the instructions below the product information.

https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/3D-Printer-Component-electronicsAndMotors-3d-printer-mainboard-FDMElectronics-3dprintermainboard
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I purchased the driver boards and MB shield for the White Ant. None of the headers are labeled. Is there a diagram showing which headers is for which axis? Is there also a diagram showing which pin on the driver is ABCD? I have watched the vids and the boards in them do not match what was sent to me.