The 12V power supply has 3 terminals for AC in: N, L and earth ground. The output of the 12V power supply has 2 DC + and - terminals. Cut the connectors off of the ends of the fan and pump wires. Strip the red and black wires of both units. The fan will connect to the 12V power supply red to the + and black to the -. The pump will connect in the same way, but the white is not connected.

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I'm trying to hook up the Spindle Cooling Kit with 12VDC Power Supply. I have all the tubes plumbed but can't figure out how to hook up the wires. The power supply you sent only has 2 AC input and 2 DC output screws. The fan has 2 wires and the pump has three and both have a JST connector. How do I wire them in?

What we intend our customers to use for wiring the motors to the drivers will be 4 conductor 20 AWG cable, now for the PSU to Drivers; 16-18 Gauge wire should be used, and drivers to BB(Breakout Board) should be a 24 AWG wires.

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In my 4'x8' Blackfoot rig, there is a maximum wire length of 16" between drivers, breakout board, and power supply as well as a maximum wire length of 10' from drivers to motors. What AWG wires should I use to connect power supply to drivers, drivers to motors, and drivers to breakout board?

There are many ways to wire an emergency stop switch. The simplest, and arguably the most certain, way is to wire the switch into the incoming power so that throwing the switch kills all power to every part of the machine. Here is a diagram showing how a customer wired such a switch on their blackTooth laser which you could adapt to your needs. http://www.buildyourtools.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4872

Alternatively, you could use an input pin on your USB board. The wiring would depend on whether and how you might be using limit switches (single or multiple switches; normally open or normally closed). Our website datasheet for the USB board is at https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/ and shows how to configure the switches for each set up. If you use this method, you'd essentially wire the e-stop as a limit switch.

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I recently purchased 3 axis electronics with the USB controller board. I'm trying to install an E-stop switch. Where do I connect that on the controller board?

There are many ways to wire an emergency stop switch. The simplest, and arguably the most certain, way is to wire the switch into the incoming power so that throwing the switch kills all power to every part of the machine. Here is a diagram showing how a customer wired such a switch on their blackTooth laser which you could adapt to your needs. http://www.buildyourtools.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4872

Alternatively, you could use an input pin on your USB board. The wiring would depend on whether and how you might be using limit switches (single or multiple switches; normally open or normally closed). Our website datasheet for the USB board is at https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/ and shows how to configure the switches for each set up. If you use this method, you'd essentially wire the e-stop as a limit switch.

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I recently purchased 3 axis electronics with the USB controller board. I'm trying to install an E-stop switch. Where do I connect that on the controller board?

The Mach3 USB will not work with Linux CNC. You can use our parallel breakout baord instead (if you have a computer that has a parallel port available).

Here is the link to that interface:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay

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Hello. I'm currently building my first CNC router, and I'm powering it with a 3 axis electronics kit that was purchased through your site. I chose to get the Mach 3 USB Breakout board, but now I'm wanting to try to use Linux CNC to work with the computer I have available. Will that work with this board?

Modifying the Z-axis to accommodate a larger motor will be a worth while task and is possible, however we have not calibrated the z-axis therefore using the 1600 Steps-per inch in the motor tuning on our machine in our shop. We have not noticed any significant depth increments from not calibrating the z-axis but only from zeroing the z axis too close to the material. Also in your design did you specify the actual depth and the length of tool (end mill/ bit) that you are using?

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I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.

Hey, sorry I just found the wiring diagram and see that #4 is disabled. My bad. Thanks.

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I just purchased some wire for my 2.2 spindle as per your recommendation it's 14 AWG stranded wire for the VFD to Spindle (U, V, W) connections. However, it's a three wire (black, white and Ground). Which numbers on the female pin connector do I connect the wires to. Cheers.

The whiteAnt is no longer sold; the information on the website is to support legacy customers. We have spoken with you and are sending the materials that you need.

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I am having difficulty with the wiring on the White Ant. The latest electronics that I received don't seem to be anything like the book or even the tutorials. For instance, the three stepper drivers need 6 pin connectors and ribbon cable. How are they wired? There was no thermocouple wire included. Thanks,

For our parallel breakout board (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/) the schematic will show the connections going from the BB to the drivers. The parallel breakout board uses the 25 pin parallel connection to communicate from the computer to drivers, and the USB is used to power the main-board itself, supplying 5V.

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The electronics package I just bought from you (Book Build) is different from your wireing diagrams and video tutorials. Is there an updated wiring diagram available? Is the USB port on the breakout board connected directly to the computer USB to supply 5 volts? Thank you.

The Mach3 USB interface card uses 5V (powered from the computer's USB) and a 24v to power the inputs, outputs and spindle control

the mach3 usb interface can be found here:

https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

But the mach3 usb does not absolutely need the 24V supply. The 24v supply is only needed if you will be using limit switches (I1-4), VFD controlled automatically and for use with the outputs (O1-4)


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The 36v 8.8 amp power supply we typically recommend is for powering the stepper motor drivers.

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The electronics for my current cnc machine has a 36v 8.8 amp power supply. Is this power supply sufficient to power my new Mach3 USB interface?

If you already have a Mach3 license, you don't need to purchase another one. The license is connected to you rather than the computer. Mach4 is licensed to the computer, but you are able to have multiple computers for each license, and can be switched from one computer to another.

If you purchased the license from me, you can call (make sure to leave a voicemail), or email to get a re-issued license.

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[575] I have an older CNC (2018) which has been working fine. The Windows 7 PC crashed and I am trying to get operational again using a windows 10 machine. I will have to buy a new license for the Mach 3 so will need to get the interface board I have to talk to MAch 3. Can I get just the disc or is there a place I can download what I need?

Yes, you can connect a THC, Torch Height Controller, with the Mach3 USB controller. The THC uses the inputs to determine if the z axis needs to move up or down according to the arc of the plasma torch. The THC connects its outputs to the inputs of the controller so the controller will be informed of the states of the plasma torch.

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I am interested in using the Mach3 USB interface board. I was wondering if there was a way to run a torch height controller with this board for use with a plasma cutter, and if so do you know of any THCs that will work. Thank you.

The board layout is different and the terminals have slightly different names, but the two boards function the same. The wiring diagram is the same for both boards. The plug-in driver for Mach3 is also the same, so you should not have a problem. If you do run into an issue, please let me know here and I will help you determine the problem.

Thanks

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Thank you for the assurance that the boards will function the same. You did not answer the primary question of wiring. The diagram shows a board with a 5V for each axis, the new boards have only 1 5V point on the axis side. In retrospect since this controller receives information and most possibly the 5V signal directly from the computer leading to the drivers. I will wire the X, Y and Z axis to the single 5V point and see what happens.

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received my mach 3 USB breakout board today. The layout of the board is different from your diagram which shows a 5V power slot for each axis. Do I wire the 5V slot with only one 5V wire from one of the drivers or perhaps wire all three 5V wires into the one 5 V slot. Please advise.

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

Did you connect the USB connector to the breakout board?

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YES I CONNECTED THE USB TO THE BREAKOUT BOARD

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I connected the electronics (for 2 x 4 feet) that I ordered from you. But how do I check if I connected all the wiring properly. There is neither any light on motor drivers nor on breakout board. And the motor shaft also does not move before and after the power supply is given.

Yes, the Mach3 USB board has two terminals that require 24V connection. Most VFDs have a 24V output that can be used to power this part of the Mach3 USB board.

The V+ and V- on the Mach3 USB is not absolutely necessary to operate the CNC machine/router. The V+ and V- of the Mach3 USB board powers the outputs, inputs, and spindle's speed and control.

Here is the Mach3 USB link for more information:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

The new YL600 VFD we have in stock may not have this 24V output. There is a 12V terminal, but I have not tested that terminal if it outputs 12V, or if it is a 12V input. If you are only conecting limit switches to the Mach3 USB and need to power that portion, 12V will be sufficient.

I will delve into these aspects in far more detail on video.

Thanks and Merry Christmas to you as well!

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Hey Guys, I have a brand new redleaf and 5x. In the final stages of wiring and wondering a few things. Can I connect the Mach3 USB board V+ V- to my frequency inverter (type YL600-2s-2k20)? If so where? Will your upcoming (part 2)video deal with this as well as final connections for limit switches and stop button? Merry Christmas!

I would suggest using the NPN proximity sensor for the Mach3 USB or the Pokeys57cnc. The proximity sensors have a top DC voltage limit of 30 volts, so it would be best to use the 24V power supply that is used to power the controller. Both controllers have a 24V power requirement, so that is convenient.

The blue wire of the proximity sensor is the GND wire and is connected to the 24V power supply's V- terminal. The brown wire is the positive wire and is connected to the V+ terminal of the 24V power supply. The black wire is the signal wire and is connected to the input terminal of the controller.

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Good evening, if I wanted to use your inductive proximity sensor's with your USB interface board what would I need besides the sensors I would be using 5 of the sensors. I have a 48V 12amp power supply. Thank you

Considering enlarging the machine, might have its down sides do to the structural integrity of the scratch build machine. Primarily by making the width longer it will start to sag in the center, which will lead to having to redesign the gantry to be more structurally rigid to support the added length. Which then will increase the weight and height of your gantry to support the add size, which will always end up to creating a larger CNC.

We usually do not recommend modifying the scratch build CNC, due to the very limited capabilities, and the structural design of the scratch build. We also do not recommend using longer than 48" ACME screw/leadscrew due to the increasing chance of warping and bending in the ACME screws/leadscrew in the given length.
We do recommend modifying the CNC machines we sell to accommodate the added requests that some of our customers desire, but you will be limited to the width of the gantry with our machines.

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I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?