I would recommend using a separate 24VDC power supply for the controller. The 24VDC that is connected to the controller is used for delicate input signals and output signals that control external devices. To keep interference and possible current and voltage fluctuations at a minimum due to the motor load, a separate power supply would be best.

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[575] Can the 24VDC supply used for the interface board be the same supply used for stepper drivers, or do you need separate power supplies? If not, does GND and DCM need to be isolated?

BYCNC Response:
This is correct. You will need to use a method appropriate for the software you are using. Also remember that NC switches are typically wired in series, while NO switches are normally wired in parallel.

User Response:
I am using the cnc planet software for your USB board. Are the limit configurations in this software?

BYCNC Response:
Yes, Planet CNC software is compatible with the use of limit switches. Configuration information will depend on your specific application. You can view Planet CNC's information here: http://www.planet-cnc.com/files/CNCUSBController.pdf

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LIMIT SWITCHES FOR AXIS. THE PRINT SHOWS THAT YOU CAN WIRE LIMITS EITHER N.O. OR N.C. SO IF THIS IS CORRECT I WOULD NEED TO TELL BOARD IN SOFTWARE HOW LOOK AT THESE LIMITS, I'M GOING GET AN INPUT LOOSE DEPEND ON IT.

You will want to connect the homing switches (which may also serve as your near limit switches) to different input terminals. It's ok to add more limit switches with the home switches, but each home should be on independent inputs. For example, connect home X and any other limit switch to IN1, connect home Y and any other limit switch to IN2, and so on. This will allow you to properly use the "ref all home" button in Mach3.

Additional Information:


Additional Information:
In the instructions (diagram 1) you show all the home switches connected in parallel? But here you say they need to each have their own inputs. "You will want to connect the homing switches (which may also serve as your near limit switches) to different input terminals." I dont see how the second and third axis can go home if the first axis has already closed the parallel circuit unless they back off a bit until the switch opens up again before the next axis goes to home? My machine has no limit switches so I assume they are home switches.

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[575] I have finally got my limit switches wired and working - thank you. Can they also used as homing switches and if so it it just a question of looping the two inputs on the board i.e. the limit and home terminals IN2 to IN3

If the sensors are NC (normally closed) you can wire them in series. If the sensors are NO (Normally Open) you can still wire them to the same input, but the wiring needs to be in parallel (like a ladder). I have more information on the following video:

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[788] Thanks for the oportunity to ask, I am building a cnc and using npn closed sensors could you help me with the conection of these, do i still connect them in series if i use more than two in each axis. Also you mention that a stop switch should be connected grd and input to the controller would that be done after the 24v power supply. Thanks r

I would suggest using the NPN proximity sensor for the Mach3 USB or the Pokeys57cnc. The proximity sensors have a top DC voltage limit of 30 volts, so it would be best to use the 24V power supply that is used to power the controller. Both controllers have a 24V power requirement, so that is convenient.

The blue wire of the proximity sensor is the GND wire and is connected to the 24V power supply's V- terminal. The brown wire is the positive wire and is connected to the V+ terminal of the 24V power supply. The black wire is the signal wire and is connected to the input terminal of the controller.

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Good evening, if I wanted to use your inductive proximity sensor's with your USB interface board what would I need besides the sensors I would be using 5 of the sensors. I have a 48V 12amp power supply. Thank you

Each home switch needs to be on a separate input on the Mach3 USB controller. For instance, the x-home on IN1, Y-home on IN2, and Z-home on IN3. You can still wire the other switches on the same input, for instance, the IN can contain the X-home and X++ limit. The X, Y, and Z homes can still serve as the limit --.

Additional Information:
So I need 3 of 4 INs only for the home switches??? The remaining one for ++? What about E-Stop and Probe?

Additional Information:
Please have a look at the wiring diagram you show below. There are all limit switches at IN2 and all home switches at IN3. Makes sense to me.

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[575] I have two limit switches for X, Y and Z axes connected to only one input terminal. As usual, I also want to use them as home switches. But after the first axis touches its home switch, I get an emergency stop because of "activating a limit switch". Mach 3 normally knows when to use a limit switch for homing. Which detail in the depths of Mach 3 did I forget?

Make sure that the port setting for that output is set to port 3. To do this in Mach3, click config -> Ports & Pins -> click the outputs tab and in the list of outputs, select the output you want to use and set the port to 3.

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I have a single axis motion for my table saw fence. Motor, limit switches and e-stop work fine. I now need to add an air solenoid relay but I cannot get the outputs to work. I have 24v supply connected and tried using the Spindle output on pin 1. But using a multimeter, there is no voltage on the Output 1 terminal.

Yes, if you need a replacement part on your machine please call us at 281-815-7701.

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I have a blacktooth laser engraver. The Y Axis stepper motor needs to be replaced. Can you please provide me with the information I would need to replace this motor.

Yes, the best way to attach a relay to the output of the Mach3 USB board is to use an SSR (Solid State Relay) at the 24 Volt rating. This is the standard supply for this side of the Mach3 USB board.

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I am converting from a Parallel Port to the Mach3 USB. My limit switches can accomodate up to 5VDC and I want to Drive a Relay from one of the outputs. Will my switches work and do I need a 24VDC Relay?

All the options for and variations of our blackTooth laser cutter/engraver are available on our website here https://buildyourcnc.com/blackToothLaserCutterAndEngraver.aspx#prettyPhoto. The wiring diagram is available here: https://buildyourcnc.com/blackToothLaserCutterAndEngraver.aspx#prettyPhoto/0/
We do not offer plans or a bill of materials for our machines at this time, but if you are interested in doing your own from scratch you can learn a lot about the design and build process from our tutorials. We wish you success in your endeavors.

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How can i get a complete list of all the components (electronics) I need for a CNC laser cutter with the laser controller? A wiring Diagram would probably be very helpful.

The diagram for wiring the USB interface board is located here: https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/

Under the board illustration, there are three smaller diagrams of limit switch wiring. On each, there are two connections, the GND and the pin which are labeled at the ends of the circuit on the diagrams. The pin side would go to the axis label ++ or -- terminal (i.e. X++, or X--). The other end, labeled GND would connect to any ground terminal on the board.

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I am using 5 limit switches on my 3 axis machine. I am using the usb controller for planet cnc. I would like to know where all the wires related to the limit switches get connected? A diagram would be helpful.

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I purchased limit switches from you mounted them on my machine and wire them to the breakout for using pin 12 and the ground on the breakout board, after a few minutes I got a message about a limit switch trip. Am I supposed to use the extra outport on the board instead of the ground?

The largest cutting area machine we have available is our greenBull 6X, which allows a cutting surface of 6' x 12'. The limit of our machines is the x-axis being the width, but you can elongate the machine as far as you require, being 15 Ft. or more.
I would highly recommend a visit to our R&D page, which allows you to post ideas/requests and to view the current tasks that we are working on!

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I work with carpet & padding and need to cut carpet to create clean 90 degree corners, and patterns for inlay's. The work area would need to be a minimum of 12 ft by 15 ft. Is there an affordable kit that could accommodate this size

Make sure to wire the limit as normally open.

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[575] I had limit switches working and on input 2. Now looking at Mach 3 diagnostics, Input 2 is continuously on and triggers limit stop. I removed all input 2 so the machine can run. Rebooted all. Anyway to reset Input on card?

I would highly recommend a spindle and VFD rather than a router.

Spindles:
- Have a far longer life longer than a router. You will probably go through a few routers before the end of the spindle's life.
- Are quieter than routers
- And the water cooled spindles we stock do not blow the chips into the air. Chips are much easier to capture with or without a dust removal system.

You can find our spindles here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx

Once you get your first spindle, you will never go back to routers. Routers are great for handrouting work, but not the best for continuous CNC milling.

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Hi there, I have a cnc table that I built but I am looking for a higher powered router because I am using the table for flattening slabs with a large straight bit. Would you have any recommendations for the type of router I should buy? Also do you sell large bits for flattening slabs?

Consider the loads on each axis when choosing appropriate stepper motors. If your holding torque is maxed out at roughly 16oz/in (1lb/in), then you could use the NEMA 11 or 14. Also consider the shaft sizes and current ratings when choosing drivers that pair with the motors.

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I am planning to build a scratch CNC machine to do rotary engraving on writing pens. Can you recommend the parts I would need? I'm thinking NEMA 14 (11?) and 3/8" acme rod. Not sure which linear motion to use. I have an old lathe to use for the 4th axis.

The Mach3 USB controller can only output pulses and direction signals (5V logic signals).

To connect your Mach3 USB controller RNR controller with a servo AC that has a 24V open collector, you will need to use a level shifter circuit to convert the 5V pulses from the controller to 24V pulses that the servo can accept.

One way to do this is to use a simple transistor-based level shifter circuit. Here are the steps to connect your Mach3 USB controller RNR controller with a servo AC using a level shifter circuit:

Connect the 5V output signals from the Mach3 USB controller RNR controller to the base of the NPN transistor in the level shifter circuit.

Connect the collector of the NPN transistor to the 24V power supply.

Connect the open collector output of the servo AC to the emitter of the NPN transistor.

Finally, connect the ground of the Mach3 USB controller RNR controller and the servo AC to the ground of the 24V power supply.

The level shifter circuit will act as a switch, allowing the 24V power to flow to the servo AC when the 5V signal from the controller is present.

Remember that the MAch3 USB controller only outputs pulses for steps per rotation of a motor. If the servo requires a different method of motor rotation, this will not work.

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[575] Hello. I have rnr controller. My problem is connection with servo ac. My servopack have logic Voltage 24v open collector. How Connect and what i need to Connect rnr with servo if rnr have 5v logic. Thx

No, you should not have received two parallel breakout boards in your CNC kit. You can return the extra item using standard shipping with COD. Our apologies for the confusion and the inconvenience.

I will answer the other question as another FAQ. Please check the Customer Service page to see the answer to that question.

If you have difficulty finding the answer, here is a link:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/FAQ/13636

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I HAVE A 2000 WK 11–3 Z LIMIT SWITCHES GOING TO C10R10 BREAKOUT BOARD . CAN ALSO USE THEM AS MY HOME POSITION WELL. NEED THE WIRING CONFIGURATION

If you purchase the greenLean, you will get everything you need except a router, computer to operate the machine, and software to control the machine. You state that you have a computer. You can use this computer, but you will need to determine if it has a parallel port, or if you are going to need the USB controller option. As for the software, there are too many different options for you to choose from. We would not be able to tell you which to get, and how much it will cost you. This is a matter of preference. I can tell you, however, that you will need 3 types of software to complete a CNC project. You will need CAD software to design your design, CAM software to add tool paths and convert the design to g-code, and then control software to take the g-code and operate the machine.

Additional Information:
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I am building a wet plasma table for my shop that is 8'x 16'. I will need hardware and software. Please heko me wuth the list, My phone is 9124273734. I would like to talk with someone if possible. Thanks, Rus