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Question #: 550

Question: AM NOT SURE HOW TO SET THE Z AXIS TURN ON/OFF LASER WHEN CREATE CODE. KNOW THAT ITS TYPICALLY Z-AXIS MOVEMENT DOES THIS - BUT YOU DONT SHOW ANYTHING HOOKED UP IN PLACE OF AXIS.

Current Solution

When the z axis is going down, the laser turns on. When the z axis is going up, it turns off. The z axis directions is only a signal that is either 5v or 0v. That determines the direction. In vectric, you will need to set your machining operations with a very very small depth so the time it takes to get to its final depth is a very short time.

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Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • I bought a, 3-Axis NEMA23 CNC Kit (36V/9.7A/382oz-in/KL-4030.but dont know how to set the dip switches on my drivers. The place I bout the kit from isent very good and support.

    That driver (not purchased here) is a standard 3.0 amp driver that will have the dip switch settings on the top of the driver. You will need to determine the amp rating of you motor for the scheme that you wire your motor to the driver (bipolar parallel is recommended in most circumstances but can depend on your power supply output). Check the stepping motor datasheet for your motor to determine this amp rating.

    The other set of switches will be configure the microstepping. This will depend on your mechanical setup (i.e. lead screw, rack and pinion, roller chain, timing belt, etc.) and the specifications of such mechanical parts.

    This general formula (which can be searched using the Customer Service Live with many examples): step/inch = (natural motor steps * desired microsteps) / (mechanical travel for one motor rotation)

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    I bought a, 3-Axis NEMA23 CNC Kit (36V/9.7A/382oz-in/KL-4030.but dont know how to set the dip switches on my drivers. The place I bout the kit from isent very good and support.

  • I have a home built CNC running Mach 3. I have power to all the motors and the breakout board but no movement when running g-code. I cannot even manually move the motors with the arrow keys or page up and down. It also has an integrated 120v receptacle showing an open ground. I don't know if all this is related.

    The fact that you cannot move the motors with the keyboard serves as a clue to a couple possibilities.

    - The software may not be communicating with parallel port. (One possibility may be that your step pins are not low active, or vice versa depending on your drivers).
    - You may not be in the correct tab of Mach3. Make sure you are in the Program Run tab.
    - The jog on/off button on the program run screen may not be lit (invoked).

    This address below shows the complete troubleshooting for this type of situation. It will show how to test each pin at the parallel port at the back of the computer and everything else associated with correctly wiring the electronics.

    https://buildyourcnc.com/CNCElectronicsandWiring.aspx




    Additional Information:
    6 axis robot with Mach3 Card 6 Axis Motion Controller

    Click the link to respond:
    I have a home built CNC running Mach 3. I have power to all the motors and the breakout board but no movement when running g-code. I cannot even manually move the motors with the arrow keys or page up and down. It also has an integrated 120v receptacle showing an open ground. I don't know if all this is related.

  • When the machine hits the limits it stops but the switch is still tripped so clicking the Mach3 RESET button doesn't do anything. How am I supposed to get the machine to move off of the limit switch so I can continue working?

    If you select the Settings Page and select or tick Auto Limit Override - this will allow you to back off the switch.

    Additional Information:
    limit and home switch

    Click the link to respond:
    When the machine hits the limits it stops but the switch is still tripped so clicking the Mach3 RESET button doesn't do anything. How am I supposed to get the machine to move off of the limit switch so I can continue working?

  • hello there, i am using servo motor for my X and Y Axis but i dont know how to calculate steps/mm for that, the lead screw i am using is have pitch of .5 mm. please helpme on this i have done everything only this point is pending.

    The formula for finding the steps per mm is found in the units itself. First, you mentioned that the motor is a servo. This needs to be clarified as a servo is different than a stepper motor. Some servos behave similar to a stepper motor, so I will continue with this in mind.

    The formula is (steps/mm):

    You need to find the steps. The stepper motor has a natural number of steps per a full revolution. This is typically 200 steps per revolution.

    The driver for the stepper motor allows you to increase the number of steps per revolution by adding a specified number of steps between each step. For instance, if you set the driver to 1/4 microstepping, then instead of having 200 steps per revolution, you would have 200 x 4 = 800 steps per revolution.

    So now we have the first part of the formula:

    Steps / mm = (200 x 4) / mm

    Lets determine the mm side of the formula:

    You mention that the pitch is 0.5 mm. Check to insure that the lead is also 0.5 mm. This could be a multiple start lead screw where the pitch is different than the turns per mm. If in this case, that the 0.5 mm is the travel for one full revolution, then you can simply plug this into the formula as:

    mm = .5 mm

    Otherwise, determine how fat the travel is for one complete revolution.

    Therefor, with what we know and the driver is set at 1/4 microstepping and the stepper motor has a natural step count per revolution at 200:

    steps / mm = (200 steps x 4) / 0.5 mm = 800 steps / 0.5 mm = 1600 steps / mm

    If your travel for one revolution is not 0.5 mm, then plug in your travel distance instead.



    Additional Information:
    i know about steps/mm calculation for stepper motor, because i am using servo motor that why i asked about that. please tell for servo motor.

    Additional Information:
    because its my first time with servo motor i have no idea about calculation of parameter with servo.

    Additional Information:
    Have you attempted to contact the manufacturer or seller of the servo? We typically respond to customers of our products on this customer service area, unless we have extensive knowledge of the subject and can answer the question efficiently.

    Click the link to respond:
    hello there, i am using servo motor for my X and Y Axis but i dont know how to calculate steps/mm for that, the lead screw i am using is have pitch of .5 mm. please helpme on this i have done everything only this point is pending.

  • X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

    If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

    IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

    The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

    - Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
    - Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
    - Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
    - Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

    Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

    Click the link to respond:
    X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

  • My Z-axis seems to be reversed on a fully assembled machine... I've tried reversing it in the config settings on Mach 3, but to no avail. What do I need to do? IS this a wiring issue that was not done correctly at the factory?

    If your Z axis is moving in the opposite direction, go into Mach3, click on config, ports & pins, then click on the motor outputs tab. You will see the axes labeled on the left and the parameters labeled on the top of this dialog box. Toggle the dir low active for the z-axis.

    Additional Information:
    What if I'm having the same issue on a different axis?

    Additional Information:
    You can follow the same procedure as with the z-axis. When you get to the motors outputs tab, toggle the dir low active checkbox for the axis that you would like to change.

    If you are using another control program, let me know and I will add the recommended action here.

    Click the link to respond:
    My Z-axis seems to be reversed on a fully assembled machine... I've tried reversing it in the config settings on Mach 3, but to no avail. What do I need to do? IS this a wiring issue that was not done correctly at the factory?

  • How do you configure usb cnc and the mk1 board to toggle the laser? I use jscut.org to create gcode files and am wondering if I create a setting to disable the laser when it goes a certain distance above 0 on Z+.

    I recommend using a an output terminal to turn on and off the laser for safety. All you need to use is the M7 (or 8) to turn the laser on and M9 to turn it off. These M codes are use in conjunction with the output terminals to control external devices. The last Pokeys57CNC tutorial part explains this concept. You can use this idea with your controller.

    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

    Click the link to respond:
    How do you configure usb cnc and the mk1 board to toggle the laser? I use jscut.org to create gcode files and am wondering if I create a setting to disable the laser when it goes a certain distance above 0 on Z+.

  • LIMIT SWITCHES FOR AXIS. THE PRINT SHOWS THAT YOU CAN WIRE LIMITS EITHER N.O. OR N.C. SO IF THIS IS CORRECT I WOULD NEED TO TELL BOARD IN SOFTWARE HOW LOOK AT THESE LIMITS, I'M GOING GET AN INPUT LOOSE DEPEND ON IT.

    BYCNC Response:
    This is correct. You will need to use a method appropriate for the software you are using. Also remember that NC switches are typically wired in series, while NO switches are normally wired in parallel.

    User Response:
    I am using the cnc planet software for your USB board. Are the limit configurations in this software?

    BYCNC Response:
    Yes, Planet CNC software is compatible with the use of limit switches. Configuration information will depend on your specific application. You can view Planet CNC's information here: http://www.planet-cnc.com/files/CNCUSBController.pdf

    Click the link to respond:
    LIMIT SWITCHES FOR AXIS. THE PRINT SHOWS THAT YOU CAN WIRE LIMITS EITHER N.O. OR N.C. SO IF THIS IS CORRECT I WOULD NEED TO TELL BOARD IN SOFTWARE HOW LOOK AT THESE LIMITS, I'M GOING GET AN INPUT LOOSE DEPEND ON IT.

  • Placed an order for the cable set for the Pokeys57cnc interface on 10/20 but it is not showing up in My Account as being ordered. It was charged to my credit card and I have not had any info that it was received by you.

    Sure, let me check.

    Additional Information:
    Your order was shipped out on Tuesday (10/20/2020). I noticed that your email was not stored in the customer record when the order was made. I will send you the tracking number via email now.

    Click the link to respond:
    Placed an order for the cable set for the Pokeys57cnc interface on 10/20 but it is not showing up in My Account as being ordered. It was charged to my credit card and I have not had any info that it was received by you.

  • I currently have my whiteant build complete. But when I go to print the 20mm x 20mm box I seem to be having issues. The Z axis does not seem to move. Also the X axis hits the limit and does not move of of it. What is the best way to trouble shoot this issue?
  • Hi, I need the lead screws and bearings for the 4' x-axis, the 2'(?) y-axis and the 1'(?) z-axis as specified in the book 'Build your own cnc'. I am not sure which to order on your website. Thanks

    You can find the required components for our scratch build CNC here(https://buildyourcnc.com/cnckitintro.aspx).

    Lead Screw needed will be:
    X-axis: 52 Inches
    Y-axis: 32 Inches
    Z-axis: 14 Inches

    These will be the bearings that are specified that will be needed:
    Bearings 1/2" Inside Diameter - 6
    Bearings 5/16" Inside Diameter - 24

    Click the link to respond:
    Hi, I need the lead screws and bearings for the 4' x-axis, the 2'(?) y-axis and the 1'(?) z-axis as specified in the book 'Build your own cnc'. I am not sure which to order on your website. Thanks

  • Limit switches for axis. The print shows that you can wire the limits either n.o. or n.c. so if this is correct I would need to tell the board in the software how to look at these limits, I'm either going to get an input or loose an input depend on how i wire it.

    BYCNC Response:
    This is correct. You will need to use a method appropriate for the software you are using. Also remember that NC switches are typically wired in series, while NO switches are normally wired in parallel.

    User Response:
    I am using the cnc planet software for your USB board. Are the limit configurations in this software?

    BYCNC Response:
    Yes, Planet CNC software is compatible with the use of limit switches. Configuration information will depend on your specific application. You can view Planet CNC's information here: http://www.planet-cnc.com/files/CNCUSBController.pdf

    Click the link to respond:
    Limit switches for axis. The print shows that you can wire the limits either n.o. or n.c. so if this is correct I would need to tell the board in the software how to look at these limits, I'm either going to get an input or loose an input depend on how i wire it.

  • Patrick, I am having issues with the x axis on the vlxl..very rough movement. What should I adjust? Check the rail spacing or can I modify anything in the software?

    Sounds like a wire may have worked itself loose. Did this just start happening? If so, check for loose terminals with the motor wiring. Did you solder the motor wires to the extended wires that lead to the driver? If not, I strongly suggest these wires be soldered and a heat shrink tubing cover the soldered connection to eliminate the possibility of shorting.

    Additional Information:
    I am just now starting to work with the machine. Was on vacation. It has never moved smoothly on the X. Was hoping to get some phone time with you or Juan tomorrow. All the connections are solid as far as I can tell. Nothing is interfering. I'm wondering if the rail spacing is off. It moves fine when I manually move it.

    Additional Information:
    If it moves smoothly when manually moving it, but the stepper motor runs rough, then it is definitely a motor wire connection. Also, check to make sure the driver is set to 1/16 microstepping and the motor amps is around 5.

    Additional Information:
    What gauge wire did you use for the motor to driver connection?

    Additional Information:
    It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

    Additional Information:
    It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

    Additional Information:
    18 gauge is more than sufficient for this stepper motor wiring. We use 20 gauge stranded wires in the 4 conductor motor cable.

    Additional Information:
    Sometimes wires can get chaffed, or there is a conductivity issue in some wires.I'm wondering if it would be goo to do a test rewiring the motor to the driver, but not putting it into the cable carrier, just to make sure that is the problem.

    Additional Information:
    What do you suggest I do? Just go over the wiring? The 18 is fine for 5.5A? All the switches look right. Set at 1/16. What are the natural steps on this motor?

    Additional Information:
    I’ll check the conductivity on the wires. I can just re-run it with that four conductor. That cable works fine for you guys?

    Additional Information:
    The 4 conductor cable is the only cable we use for these stepper motors. It's a special cable used for motion applications.

    Here is a link to that cable that we sell just to confirm the cable we are discussing:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-cable-wire-20awg-wrcon


    Additional Information:
    Yeah, that’s it. However, I ran the stock File on the laser cutter, the duck, it seems to run fine it’s just when you make the small adjustments with the arrow keys that it’s so rough. The other problem is that the speed on the stock file is way too fast.

    Additional Information:
    Ah, the jogging speed. I did not consider this. You definitely need to reduce the speed when you press the arrow keys.

    The speed when running a job (the file) can be modified in LaserCad.

    Additional Information:
    So, I’ll look into that. Everything is done besides for Putting the tube on and adjusting the mirrors. When are you guys available for a quick phone call?

    Additional Information:
    In LaserCAD, go to the options -> system options -> User parameters. Make sure to click the read button to bring the parameters from the laser controller to the software. Our Key_Move_Speed is 100 and our X/Y_Home_Speed is also 100. I wouldn't go any faster than that. Curious, what are your values for these parameters?

    Additional Information:
    Key speed was set to 200 and XY was at 50. On the duck file on the machine, it says the speed is at 200. How can I import that file to change it?

    Additional Information:
    Much smoother after that change. File is still too fast, though.

    Additional Information:
    In the file, the speed is built into the geometry. You will need to open the file in LaserCAD, select the geometry and modify the speed. Make sure to change the intensity as well to compensate.

    Click the link to respond:
    Patrick, I am having issues with the x axis on the vlxl..very rough movement. What should I adjust? Check the rail spacing or can I modify anything in the software?

  • The relay doesn't have a A+ B - it has signal in god. 5v. / 0 S P. This has to go to my USB motion card wiring shows v+ goes to top of coil no number and comes out the bottom to #2 the relay I got from you is not that simple

    The relay is only used for devices like routers, spindles, coolant, mist, etc. The relay works like an automatic switch and will allow current to pass when the relay is engaged.

    Click the link to respond:
    The relay doesn't have a A+ B - it has signal in god. 5v. / 0 S P. This has to go to my USB motion card wiring shows v+ goes to top of coil no number and comes out the bottom to #2 the relay I got from you is not that simple

  • BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ABOUT COOLING THE LASER OFF - IS YOUR SETUP LIKE MOST OTHERS NEED BUCKET OF DISTILLED WATER TO PUMP THROUGH MACHINE?

    Cooling is not as tricky as you might think. There is 3 ways to approach this, only 2 really matter for a low scale 40w setup. First one is the cheapest and easiest. The higher the temp of water the worse your performance will be, from what I understand anything in the 30C range is about the most tolerable it gets. Lower is better. But not frozen...from what I've been told a very experienced cutter, he found 8C was the highest power he achieved.

    1. Use a 5 Gallon resovoir system which gives you a fairly large space of water to heat up before you need to tend to it. Add about a cup of anti-freeze to the mix of DISTILLED water. You don't want ANY minerals in the water that might build up in your system. The anti-freeze works to keep algae and other ickies from growing in your water.

    2. Use a smaller resovoir system (or even closed loop) and install 1 or more radiators found in CPU cooling systems with 120mm fans attached. This will continously cool your water system to ambient room temperatures, but with a tiny resovoir it will be difficult to add things like ice-packs to drop the temps if the ambient is quite hot.

    3. Using an industrial coolant system. Overkill and unless your cutting A LOT, this is a very expensive option to take. You can also explore the idea of Peltier cooling but it is extremely expensive electricity/BTU wise compared to an industrial cooler.

    Click the link to respond:
    BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ABOUT COOLING THE LASER OFF - IS YOUR SETUP LIKE MOST OTHERS NEED BUCKET OF DISTILLED WATER TO PUMP THROUGH MACHINE?

  • I'm new to this and was wondering if I connected something incorrectly... I followed the schematics found on this site for wiring. I purchased the heavy gantry kit with the USB power option. All my lights come on and motor shafts resist turning but, I cannot get movement from Mach3. How do I test my equipment to see if I've damaged anything?

    By USB power do you mean the USB board? or do you mean that it is powered through USB but you have the parallel breakout board?


    Additional Information:
    I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

    Additional Information:
    I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

    Additional Information:
    I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

    Click the link to respond:
    I'm new to this and was wondering if I connected something incorrectly... I followed the schematics found on this site for wiring. I purchased the heavy gantry kit with the USB power option. All my lights come on and motor shafts resist turning but, I cannot get movement from Mach3. How do I test my equipment to see if I've damaged anything?

  • How long does processing typically take before a Blacktooth laser cutter ships? I see a week on a lot of the answers, but my order is pushing two. Since bad luck tends to follow me around, I just want to make sure I'm still in the realm of normal processing time.

    We have been quite busy during the Holiday season which is normal. This may result in extended lead times. If you would like to speak to a representative about your order please call 281-815-7701 or email customerservice@buildyourcnc.com and someone will advise you when to expect your order.

    Click the link to respond:
    How long does processing typically take before a Blacktooth laser cutter ships? I see a week on a lot of the answers, but my order is pushing two. Since bad luck tends to follow me around, I just want to make sure I'm still in the realm of normal processing time.

  • Can you preset an origin point on this cnc? How long does it take to jog over? (If I have the case that I using the same thickness of maple wood, and same jig everytime)?

    Yes, you can preset an origin by zeroing the machine at the desired location before beginning your work. You can return to that exact point at any time, or you can specify an offset from that point to be the beginning point for the next machine operation (for instance when cutting several parts from one sheet of wood.) Jogging time varies by machine and application but would generally be a rapid move -- our default rapid setting is 400 inches per minute.

    Click the link to respond:
    Can you preset an origin point on this cnc? How long does it take to jog over? (If I have the case that I using the same thickness of maple wood, and same jig everytime)?

  • I ordered a collet set for a Porter Cable router on 10/7, my card was charged on 10/8. I have not heard anything from you as to when it would ship, or even a confirmation of the order. Please let me know the status.

    That order did not show up in our system. We searched and found it in our PayPal activity. We are sending it today. My apologies for this.

    Additional Information:
    I received my order, thank you. However the collet nut will not fit my Porter Cable 690, the threads are too coarse. Can you please send the correct nut, and I will return the wrong nut.
    Thank you,
    Tom

    Additional Information:
    I believe the wrench is different also.

    Additional Information:
    Ok. I will send the correct wrench and collet nut.

    Additional Information:
    It’s Monday 11-16, and I have not received the nut and wrench. Have you shipped it yet?

    Additional Information:
    Let me check.

    Additional Information:
    The set of collets and nut/spanner came straight from the supplier PreciseBits. I am working to understand what went wrong and get it resolved.

    Additional Information:
    Do you have any new info on the status?

    Click the link to respond:
    I ordered a collet set for a Porter Cable router on 10/7, my card was charged on 10/8. I have not heard anything from you as to when it would ship, or even a confirmation of the order. Please let me know the status.

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