Mounting the extruder to the whiteAnt can be done a couple of ways. One is to take the 4 mounting holes located at the lower portion of the z-axis rail support and use long screws protruding out. Take a thinner material and drill the four holes matching the locations of the 4 screws and screw on nuts to hold it in place. The other option would be to use the metal bracket and fasten to the edge of the rail support.

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IS IT POSSIBLE TO MOUNT THE NEW EXTRUDER WHITEANT?

Mounting the extruder to the whiteAnt can be done a couple of ways. One is to take the 4 mounting holes located at the lower portion of the z-axis rail support and use long screws protruding out. Take a thinner material and drill the four holes matching the locations of the 4 screws and screw on nuts to hold it in place. The other option would be to use the metal bracket and fasten to the edge of the rail support.

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CAN YOU GIVE ME SOME HELP OR POINT IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION TO INCORPORATE MK 7 EXTRUDER WITH BOOK PLANS FOR 3D PRINTER?

The parallel breakout board has a relay that can turn the router on and off according to the control software in the computer. The router will turn on automatically prior to the machine moving (a time frame can be set so the router is up to speed). When the machine is finished and is not moving, the router automatically turns off. This is with the m3, m4, and m5 codes in the g-code.

If you are interested in the USB breakout board, you will need to get an independent relay board.

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HOW CAN THE ROUTER BE CONTROLLED OR CONNECTED TO ELECTRONICS COMPUTER?

If you would like to use a spindle rather than a router on your existing CNC, we will send you another set of components that will allow the spindle to be mounted properly which includes the z-axis rails, rail support, spindle mounts and the dust shoe components. You can find this item to purchase here: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/category/z-axis

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I HAVE BLACKTOE 4.1 WITH PORTER CABLE 890 ROUTER.TO CONVERT TO SPINDLE(2.2KW) CAN JUST CHANGE THE MOUNT?

The parallel breakout board has a relay that can turn the router on and off according to the control software in the computer. The router will turn on automatically prior to the machine moving (a time frame can be set so the router is up to speed). When the machine is finished and is not moving, the router automatically turns off. This is with the m3, m4, and m5 codes in the g-code.

If you are interested in the USB breakout board, you will need to get an independent relay board.

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HOW CAN THE ROUTER BE CONTROLLED BY COMPUTER?

Temperature probe monitor. Very valuable. This keeps you up to date on your coolant temperature levels.

Voltage meter. This will tell you the exact level of voltage/power you are running telling the laser to run at instead of an arbitrary mark on a drawn wheel around your POT.

Ammeter sensitive to 1mA. This will be sure your not over driving your tube and reducing it's life significantly.

Hour meter. This will tell you exactly how long your system has been 'on' giving you a more accurate bead on the length of your tubes life.

Exhaust fan upgrade. The current fan included is 100CFM. You can buy 120mm fans that push 250CFM and I have included a guide on how to go about doing this here. http://buildyourtools.com/phpBB3/viewto ... 8cdd1802bf

To push the exhaust fan even further, if you have the room/power, I would highly recommend investing in a 600+ CFM "Dust Collector" system. 250CFM is still not suffice to draw all the smoke that can come off of 3mm or 1/8 MDF cutting job.

A cutting surface. I bought myself a aluminum 'egg crate' mesh from my local HVAC company. They are used a cover for fluorescent lights and work great for low impact cutting surface. They come in 4'x8' sheets and are easily cut to fit. The other side is if you can find a steel honeycomb cutting bed to fit. These can be quite costly or fairly affordable depending where you are looking. The benefit of a steel honeycomb is you can use high power magnets to hold material down.

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HOW CAN ENHANCE THE BLACKTOOTH?

Temperature probe monitor. Very valuable. This keeps you up to date on your coolant temperature levels.

Voltage meter. This will tell you the exact level of voltage/power you are running telling the laser to run at instead of an arbitrary mark on a drawn wheel around your POT.

Ammeter sensitive to 1mA. This will be sure your not over driving your tube and reducing it's life significantly.

Hour meter. This will tell you exactly how long your system has been 'on' giving you a more accurate bead on the length of your tubes life.

Exhaust fan upgrade. The current fan included is 100CFM. You can buy 120mm fans that push 250CFM and I have included a guide on how to go about doing this here. http://buildyourtools.com/phpBB3/viewto ... 8cdd1802bf

To push the exhaust fan even further, if you have the room/power, I would highly recommend investing in a 600+ CFM "Dust Collector" system. 250CFM is still not suffice to draw all the smoke that can come off of 3mm or 1/8 MDF cutting job.

A cutting surface. I bought myself a aluminum 'egg crate' mesh from my local HVAC company. They are used a cover for fluorescent lights and work great for low impact cutting surface. They come in 4'x8' sheets and are easily cut to fit. The other side is if you can find a steel honeycomb cutting bed to fit. These can be quite costly or fairly affordable depending where you are looking. The benefit of a steel honeycomb is you can use high power magnets to hold material down.

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HOW CAN YOU ENHANCE THE BLACKTOOTH LASER CUTTER?

Cooling is not as tricky as you might think. There is 3 ways to approach this, only 2 really matter for a low scale 40w setup. First one is the cheapest and easiest. The higher the temp of water the worse your performance will be, from what I understand anything in the 30C range is about the most tolerable it gets. Lower is better. But not frozen...from what I've been told a very experienced cutter, he found 8C was the highest power he achieved.

1. Use a 5 Gallon resovoir system which gives you a fairly large space of water to heat up before you need to tend to it. Add about a cup of anti-freeze to the mix of DISTILLED water. You don't want ANY minerals in the water that might build up in your system. The anti-freeze works to keep algae and other ickies from growing in your water.

2. Use a smaller resovoir system (or even closed loop) and install 1 or more radiators found in CPU cooling systems with 120mm fans attached. This will continously cool your water system to ambient room temperatures, but with a tiny resovoir it will be difficult to add things like ice-packs to drop the temps if the ambient is quite hot.

3. Using an industrial coolant system. Overkill and unless your cutting A LOT, this is a very expensive option to take. You can also explore the idea of Peltier cooling but it is extremely expensive electricity/BTU wise compared to an industrial cooler.

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HOW CAN COOL THE LASER TUBE?

U - Pin1
V - Pin2
W - Pin3
Pin4 Dead

Additional Information:
My home made cnc is a big problem with my NC connection. When in start my spindle it will be gone wrong. It will be limith switch problem anytime. Need help thanks.

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Click the link to add information to this solution:
HOW DO YOU HOOK UP THE VFD TO SPINDLE?

Input to VFD:
240V Active - R
240V Neutral - S
Ground - E

Additional Information:

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HOW DO YOU CONNECT THE INVERTER TO AC?

Cooling is not as tricky as you might think. There is 3 ways to approach this, only 2 really matter for a low scale 40w setup. First one is the cheapest and easiest. The higher the temp of water the worse your performance will be, from what I understand anything in the 30C range is about the most tolerable it gets. Lower is better. But not frozen...from what I've been told a very experienced cutter, he found 8C was the highest power he achieved.

1. Use a 5 Gallon resovoir system which gives you a fairly large space of water to heat up before you need to tend to it. Add about a cup of anti-freeze to the mix of DISTILLED water. You don't want ANY minerals in the water that might build up in your system. The anti-freeze works to keep algae and other ickies from growing in your water.

2. Use a smaller resovoir system (or even closed loop) and install 1 or more radiators found in CPU cooling systems with 120mm fans attached. This will continously cool your water system to ambient room temperatures, but with a tiny resovoir it will be difficult to add things like ice-packs to drop the temps if the ambient is quite hot.

3. Using an industrial coolant system. Overkill and unless your cutting A LOT, this is a very expensive option to take. You can also explore the idea of Peltier cooling but it is extremely expensive electricity/BTU wise compared to an industrial cooler.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
HOW TO COOL THE BLACKTOOTH 40W LASER TUBE

U - Pin1
V - Pin2
W - Pin3
Pin4 Dead

Additional Information:
My home made cnc is a big problem with my NC connection. When in start my spindle it will be gone wrong. It will be limith switch problem anytime. Need help thanks.

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Click the link to add information to this solution:
HOW TO CONNECT THE SPINDLE INVERTER?

U - Pin1
V - Pin2
W - Pin3
Pin4 Dead

Additional Information:
My home made cnc is a big problem with my NC connection. When in start my spindle it will be gone wrong. It will be limith switch problem anytime. Need help thanks.

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Click the link to add information to this solution:
HOW DO YOU HOOK UP THE SPINDLE TO INVERTER?

The blackTooth Laser cutter and Engraver can be built in a weekend. Take a look at the build instructions and try to determine if you feel you have sufficient capability to put together the laser system.

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HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO BUILD THE BLACKTOOTH

There are several CAD/CAM programs out there for MacOS. Here is a list of a few: http://www.macuser.de/forum/f53/3d-2d-cad-395058/#post4499316
I've also read good things about punchCAD: http://www.punchcad.com/
Of course, there is always SketchUp if you are in a pinch. There are a few CAM plugins for SketchUp as well, but I've never used them, so I can't vouch for them.

CAD/CAM will get you as far as designing your parts and producing the g-code, but if you also want to run the CNC machine with your Mac, you will need a piece of software similar to Mach3 or EMC to run the g-code. I haven't been able to find anything like these programs that runs on Mac, so you may have to run Mach3 or EMC in Windows using Boot Camp or a virtual machine such as VMware or Parallels.

Personally, I would use the Mac to do all the CAD/CAM, then use a cheap PC to run the CNC machine.

Additional Information:


Additional Information:
EasyDNC for OSX
www.dnc-x.com

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Hi guys I’m new to the cnc and I’m beginning to learn how to operate and cad-cam software also my cnc runs on Mach3 my questions is if I should use MacBook to do all designs if I can have all this software to run on Mac or I have to use windows software to operate it? I have separate small computer connected to the cnc table who have Mach3 on it please help. Also if you know any other software much easy for beginners please let me know thank you guys!
My email if needed is r1jastrzebski@gmail.com

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Hi , thank you for your advise!

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Hi , thank you for your advise!

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Hi , thank you for your advise!

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Hi , thank you for your advise!

Additional Information:

Click the link to add information to this solution:
CAN I USE AN APPLE COMPUTER TO RUN THE CNC?

The parallel breakout board has a relay that can turn the router on and off according to the control software in the computer. The router will turn on automatically prior to the machine moving (a time frame can be set so the router is up to speed). When the machine is finished and is not moving, the router automatically turns off. This is with the m3, m4, and m5 codes in the g-code.

If you are interested in the USB breakout board, you will need to get an independent relay board.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
HOW THE ROUTER IS CONNECTED TO ELECTRONICS?

There are several CAD/CAM programs out there for MacOS. Here is a list of a few: http://www.macuser.de/forum/f53/3d-2d-cad-395058/#post4499316
I've also read good things about punchCAD: http://www.punchcad.com/
Of course, there is always SketchUp if you are in a pinch. There are a few CAM plugins for SketchUp as well, but I've never used them, so I can't vouch for them.

CAD/CAM will get you as far as designing your parts and producing the g-code, but if you also want to run the CNC machine with your Mac, you will need a piece of software similar to Mach3 or EMC to run the g-code. I haven't been able to find anything like these programs that runs on Mac, so you may have to run Mach3 or EMC in Windows using Boot Camp or a virtual machine such as VMware or Parallels.

Personally, I would use the Mac to do all the CAD/CAM, then use a cheap PC to run the CNC machine.

Additional Information:


Additional Information:
EasyDNC for OSX
www.dnc-x.com

Additional Information:


Additional Information:
Hi guys I’m new to the cnc and I’m beginning to learn how to operate and cad-cam software also my cnc runs on Mach3 my questions is if I should use MacBook to do all designs if I can have all this software to run on Mac or I have to use windows software to operate it? I have separate small computer connected to the cnc table who have Mach3 on it please help. Also if you know any other software much easy for beginners please let me know thank you guys!
My email if needed is r1jastrzebski@gmail.com

Additional Information:


Additional Information:
Hi , thank you for your advise!

Additional Information:
Hi , thank you for your advise!

Additional Information:
Hi , thank you for your advise!

Additional Information:
Hi , thank you for your advise!

Additional Information:

Click the link to add information to this solution:
CAN I USE A MAC TO CONTROL THE CNC?

The parallel breakout board has a relay that can turn the router on and off according to the control software in the computer. The router will turn on automatically prior to the machine moving (a time frame can be set so the router is up to speed). When the machine is finished and is not moving, the router automatically turns off. This is with the m3, m4, and m5 codes in the g-code.

If you are interested in the USB breakout board, you will need to get an independent relay board.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
HOW IS THE ROUTER CONNECTED TO ELECTRONICS?

Input to VFD:
240V Active - R
240V Neutral - S
Ground - E

Additional Information:

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HOW TO HOOK UP THE VFD INVERTER WALL OUTLET?