The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The fact that you cannot move the motors with the keyboard serves as a clue to a couple possibilities.

- The software may not be communicating with parallel port. (One possibility may be that your step pins are not low active, or vice versa depending on your drivers).
- You may not be in the correct tab of Mach3. Make sure you are in the Program Run tab.
- The jog on/off button on the program run screen may not be lit (invoked).

This address below shows the complete troubleshooting for this type of situation. It will show how to test each pin at the parallel port at the back of the computer and everything else associated with correctly wiring the electronics.

https://buildyourcnc.com/CNCElectronicsandWiring.aspx




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6 axis robot with Mach3 Card 6 Axis Motion Controller

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I have a home built CNC running Mach 3. I have power to all the motors and the breakout board but no movement when running g-code. I cannot even manually move the motors with the arrow keys or page up and down. It also has an integrated 120v receptacle showing an open ground. I don't know if all this is related.

Here is how to connect your router to the parallel breakout board through the on-board relay. You will need a spare extension cord. You will need to remove a portion of the outer jacket of the extension cord to expose the white, black and green wires (white = neutral, black = live and green = ground), understanding that the neutral and live create the completed circuit.

See this image of a similar connection. The terminal has the same connections.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/vacuum-pressure-controller-relay-terminals-700.JPG

Image of the relay terminal:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/breakoutboardrelayNONC.PNG

The live/black wire would be cut and one end of the cut would be secured into the P terminal and the other cut end would be secured into the S terminal. The live and ground wire would be uncut and travel from the plug to the router.


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You can also connect other high powered devices to the breakout board using any of the output terminals. You will need to supply extra relays like the one shown here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-breakout-Relays-relay-board-250V-12A-5V

Or you can find SSRs (Solid State Relays) that will accept 5v to drive the relay coil. Make sure the SSR will protect the 5V line from Back EMF as there is a coil in the relay. The one we sell contains a fly-back diode to protect the 5v terminal.

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I have your breakout board with relay parallel port , I have a vacuum, light on router and air pump I want to also hook up to board, can I hook those up to board and also could I had reylays to each one, what is the best way to figure this out any information would be great. Thanks

You may want to try using a ferrite core or an inductor in addition to the shielded cable. Also, make sure you are grounding the shield at both ends. Even though this is not high frequency, grounding the shield at both ends in a motor scenario may help. Also, try to reduce any parallel wire runs.

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[575] Hi, I plug HY 220v spindle on the board. It work, but the is a unstable frequency on the spindle. I put shielded wires from BOB to Inverter, and from Inverter to Spindle. But the problem still there. I read that I have to put a Analogue PWM, is that true, or I have problem with my wires... Thank you

Not a problem. The ALM is rather self-explanatory as this is a closed-loop stepper motor and driver that you are using. The ALM (alarm) is a signal that is used to tell the driver/controller that the motor is not in the same condition that the driver expects. In a closed-loop system, the motor has an encoder that tells the driver exactly how many steps that it turned, and if this value does not coincide with the driver's outputted number of steps, and within a specified amount of time, the alarm will trigger so the system can stop and the workpiece can be salvaged.

The MF is simply a signal that tells the driver that there is impending direction and step pulses coming. If the MF signal is high, then that is similar to an enable signal.

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Hello I recently read your site and have a question. I have a driver model DM2722A but I can't connect it to my usb controller due to the fact that the driver is not marked enable, but instead it is marked: mf-, mf +, alm-, alm +. I will be very grateful if you explain to me the meaning of the latter and tell me what should be related to "enable" Thanks in advance!

That is a very loaded question that could be replied in so many ways. I will need a more specific question to help you. For instance, I have my machine moving in different directions, but I don't know how to make the machine move according to g-code instructions. Another question could be, I connected all of my electronics and the motors are not moving and I did all of the steps on the electronics video to troubleshoot the problem.

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I have a cnc router that was built from the book "Build your own cnc machine" by james kelley and patrick hood daniel.all the parts were purchased from your company.I have no clue how to work the machine and I need to purchase a spindle (or router) bits , softwear ect , I did mention I don't know how to use the machine !!! Thanks for your help Richard

Hi, you can call me at the 281-815-7701 number. Please leave a message when you call as most of the calls are screened to avoid scam calls. You can also email me at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com or phooddaniel@berkeley.edu.

The newer kits that are featured on the home page include everything you need except a computer and software. The legacy CNC routers that are located in the CNC machines menu selection include all of the parts for the gantry, but you will need to build the table yourself. All of the information on the measurements to be followed for the table construction are on the machine pages.

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I am looking at getting a 4x8 cnc router kit. I am having a hard time figuring out what is included in the kit and what else i will need to buy with it to get off the ground and running. Is there someone i could talk to to walk me through it? If not, can you break down what all I need to go from scratch to a running set up? thanks

The relay is only used for devices like routers, spindles, coolant, mist, etc. The relay works like an automatic switch and will allow current to pass when the relay is engaged.

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The relay doesn't have a A+ B - it has signal in god. 5v. / 0 S P. This has to go to my USB motion card wiring shows v+ goes to top of coil no number and comes out the bottom to #2 the relay I got from you is not that simple

Do you have the Pokeys57CNC connected to a 24V external power supply?

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Yes, a 24V external power supply with the jumper positioned. I'm using the ethernet port so the 24v is the only source of power. I plan to measure the amp draw when I have a chance to see how much the vfd is drawing on the analog out.

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Further information. The resistance across the terminals on the vfd is 22k ohms. With an independent 0-10v current source I can run the spindle from 20 to 400 Hz. The PokeysCNC only gets to 3.8v with the vfd attached (and the vfd is at 150 Hz) compared to 10v when the vfd is not attached. The power to the PokeysCNC is steady at 24.18 V, so I'm not maxing out the power supply. Still looking for thoughts on what might be going on?

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And the other thing - The measured amperage is 0.17 mA for the 0-10 V signal (which makes perfect sense for 3.7 V and 22k Ohms).

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Just to bring finality to this issue - I added a 2.2 microfarad capacitor across the 0-10V input terminal (from signal to ground). This solved the issue. Evidently, it was an electrical noise issue.

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My pokeysCNC board creates and analog signal of 0-10V for 0 to 24000 spindle rpm just like it should from Mach3. However, when the spindle is on, the voltage only gets to about 3.8V for 24000 rpm. It seems like the vfd is drawing more current than the pokeyscnc analog output can produce. It there an easy solution to this problem?

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I have your Mach3 usb interface board and am interested in the relay board to turn plasma torch on/off. I have a different relay board that doesn't work, it needs 0/5v from output pin to trigger and the usb board doesn't put out 5 volts. Does this relay board need 5v on output or will work fine with this usb controller?

Please contact us at sales@buildyourcnc.com so we can provide you with assistance on your order

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I am trying to purchase a kit for our school in Singapore, and your site keeps refusing our corporate AMEX card. Can you help us figure out what is up with that? Are you not ship to Singapore or something? Our AMEX rep says that the account is authorised for this purchase from our end, so the problem may be with your site? Please advise.

If you have received a part that does not work as advertised, or does not function properly, we will ship you a replacement. Please contact customerservice@buildyourcnc.com to make these arrangements.

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I would like to re-order another breakout board, but I would like each output tested beofore shipping. I have recieved a breakout board where the mist coolant doesnt work, and the y-axis sends a 1.5vdc signal voltage. They should all be 5v as you know, or the driver will not read.

I am assuming that you are referring to the Mach3 USB controller.

Your understanding seems mostly correct, but it's important to clarify a few points regarding the 3D touch probe and the Mach3 USB Interface Board. The probe has three wires: 24V+, 24V-, and a signal wire. Here's how it typically works:

24V+ and 24V- Wires: These are for powering the probe. Make sure they are connected to the appropriate power supply.

Signal Wire: This wire sends the signal to the board when the probe is activated. In your case, it seems to be connected to pin 4.

Active Low Setting: If the probe is Normally Open (NO), when activated (i.e., when it touches the surface), it will complete the circuit. If you're using "active low NOT ticked," this means the board will interpret an open circuit (no contact) as an active signal. When the probe touches a surface and closes the circuit, the signal will stop.

It's crucial to ensure that the probe's voltage specifications match what the Mach3 USB Interface Board can handle. Since the board's inputs might not be designed for a 24V signal, using a voltage divider or an appropriate interface circuit to step down the voltage to a safe level for the board might be necessary.

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Hi. I have just purchared this board and will be using a 3d touch probe. The probe has 3 wires, 24v+, 24v- and a signal wire to the pin 4 (I think). The way I see it is that the probe is NO and the signal wire when activated will send a 24v+ signal to pin 4 (active low NOT ticked) activating the board. Would I be right in this understanding? Much apreciated.

Sure, our blueChick and blackToe CNC Routers are considered relatively small machines at 1'x3' and 2'x4' respectively. They both use NEMA 23/24 motors. We recommend connecting the machines to either Mach3 or LinuxCNC and come with the necessary interface for either control software. You will need a computer for the control software and if you desire LinuxCNC, you will need a parallel port. Mach3 will accept either parallel port, or USB interface.

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I recently purchased the linksprite cnc engraving router and was wondering if your 3 axis small kit would be ok? the engraver came with nema 17 motors and a arduino board but but not liking the grbl control. could you point me in the right direction .Thanks.

Yes, you can find all of the instructions for the blackToe CNC Router here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/cnc-machine-blacktoe-v4-2x4

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I recently purchase the BlackToe v2.1 (4x8) at a local school auction. The table is complete, however, it is missing the spindle and came in 4 (four) separate pieces. Are there plans for this machine that I would be able to use to reconstruct and determine if anything else is missing.

Yes, if the power supplies were supplied by us, we will exchange them with 110v equivalent power supplies.

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Hello, I am a student working on a CO2 laser. We recently ordered two 40watt CO2 laser tubes and two 40 Watt CO2 Laser Tube Power Supply at 220V. However, our school is unable to use them due to being 220v. Is it possible to exchange these for the 110v supply, or is there a way we can go about connecting it at 110v instead of 220v? Thank you.

When wiring the limit switches to our BoB(breakout board), depending in the older model or our revised version (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/0/), the older version will need the COM (limit switch) connected to 5V and the NO/NC to your input pin, but with our newer version you will use GND(ground instead of 5V) to common and the same for NO/NC but the setup in the mach3/confi/ports&pins/ is still the same.

Here is a tutorial where you can see how to set up the limit switches correctly (with our older parallel BoB): Part 1:(

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I am attempting to set up limit switches on the 5 axis parallel breakout board that came with my BlackFoot kit. The output pins are driving the motors perfectly, but I can't figure out the input pins. With one lead in the 5V pin and one lead testing the input pins, my multimeter reads 0V for all of the input pins. Shouldn't those circuits be +5V? Where am I going wrong?

If you are wanting to use servos, I would highly recommend using closed loop steppers and drivers. You will get the best features of both the servo closed loop and the exact digital positioning of stepper motors.

For controllers: the pokeys57cnc will work with either Mach3 or Mach4
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

Otherwise, you can use the Mach3 USB controller if you only an on using Mach3:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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Hi there. I have an ex school Boxford HSRmi2 sat in my workshop, good condition and I'm assured it's all ok, but I want to rip everything out and go down the Mach 3/4 rabbit hole with servos. I need help at this point as I haven't done anything like this before and have no knowledge of controllers/motors etc. Could someone please point me in the right direction? Thanks.