The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I have your Mach3 usb interface board and am interested in the relay board to turn plasma torch on/off. I have a different relay board that doesn't work, it needs 0/5v from output pin to trigger and the usb board doesn't put out 5 volts. Does this relay board need 5v on output or will work fine with this usb controller?

I also place the controller very close to the drivers (on the back of the gantry). All of the cables are shielded. The only long cables are the mains power cables and the USB cable. The USB cable is shielded and contains active repeaters.

There is no problem putting all of the electronics in a box and using long cables to the motors. This is the way I did it for a very long time.

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Great site. I saw your videos of wiring the Mach3 USB controller. You place the drivers next to the Steppers. This means that you have very long leads to the USB Board? What about the placement of the controlling PC? Is it a problem to have the USB board, PSUs and Drivers in a control box and long leads to the steppers? Thank you.

Not a problem. The ALM is rather self-explanatory as this is a closed-loop stepper motor and driver that you are using. The ALM (alarm) is a signal that is used to tell the driver/controller that the motor is not in the same condition that the driver expects. In a closed-loop system, the motor has an encoder that tells the driver exactly how many steps that it turned, and if this value does not coincide with the driver's outputted number of steps, and within a specified amount of time, the alarm will trigger so the system can stop and the workpiece can be salvaged.

The MF is simply a signal that tells the driver that there is impending direction and step pulses coming. If the MF signal is high, then that is similar to an enable signal.

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Hello I recently read your site and have a question. I have a driver model DM2722A but I can't connect it to my usb controller due to the fact that the driver is not marked enable, but instead it is marked: mf-, mf +, alm-, alm +. I will be very grateful if you explain to me the meaning of the latter and tell me what should be related to "enable" Thanks in advance!

There is some variation in the outward appearance of laser power supplies due to sourcing through different vendors. However, the basic wiring requirements are the same in each case. For the unit with integrated laser controller, follow the diagram found here: https://buildyourcnc.com/blackToothLaserCutterAndEngraver.aspx#prettyPhoto/0/. The terminals on the signal side will have a 6 connection terminal block -- these are the ones labeled 5V, IN, G, P (or WP), L (or TTL-L), and H (or TTL-H). The High Power side will have 3 inputs for AC power, one high voltage lead, and one return line. Connect these as shown in the diagram as well: the return line goes on the "front" (beam exit end) terminal of the laser tube, the high voltage lead goes to the "back" terminal of the tube, the FG terminal (or G) receives the earth ground wire of the AC power cable, and the two AC terminals receive the line and neutral wires of the AC power cable (it doesn't matter in this case which wire goes to which terminal).

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I purchased the blackTooth Laser Engraver with integrated Laser Control Unit and have been following your instructions. I noticed that the laser tube power supply is different that what is shown in your instructions. Do you have any better wiring guides that I can follow for the version that I received?

The license file should be called Mach1Lic.Dat, you can copy it to a Mach3 folder on another computer and it will register the program.

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You sent my my activation code which I have jealously, guarded on my Desktop till needed, now, unfortunately I cant get it to copy from Desktop to the computer and Mach3, is it possible to get advice on this or maybe a replacement that can be put on a stick then plugged into my Mach3 computer. This is how I have tried but when I open the folder it is empty. Thanks for your patience with me.

For our parallel breakout board (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/) the schematic will show the connections going from the BB to the drivers. The parallel breakout board uses the 25 pin parallel connection to communicate from the computer to drivers, and the USB is used to power the main-board itself, supplying 5V.

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The electronics package I just bought from you (Book Build) is different from your wireing diagrams and video tutorials. Is there an updated wiring diagram available? Is the USB port on the breakout board connected directly to the computer USB to supply 5 volts? Thank you.

You should have no problem connecting the Pokeys57CNC controller to the drivers of your machine as long as the drivers have step (Pulse or PUL) and direction (DIR) terminals. You will need the cable pack that is sold separately so you can connect the headers/connectors of the pokeys57cnc controller to the drivers using ribbon cables.

I show this process in great detail on this page:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

Is you scroll down on the page, you will see a set of videos that show the process step-by-step.

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I have a ShopBot CNC that was converted to Mach 3. The controller has gone out. I pourchased your Pokeys57 board, but I'm not sure I have everything I need. I think my motor drivers are OK, but am not sure how to wire them to what I purchased from you. Need Help. How can we make this work, or do I need a different board to distribute the movement signals to my drivers?

The board layout is different and the terminals have slightly different names, but the two boards function the same. The wiring diagram is the same for both boards. The plug-in driver for Mach3 is also the same, so you should not have a problem. If you do run into an issue, please let me know here and I will help you determine the problem.

Thanks

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Thank you for the assurance that the boards will function the same. You did not answer the primary question of wiring. The diagram shows a board with a 5V for each axis, the new boards have only 1 5V point on the axis side. In retrospect since this controller receives information and most possibly the 5V signal directly from the computer leading to the drivers. I will wire the X, Y and Z axis to the single 5V point and see what happens.

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received my mach 3 USB breakout board today. The layout of the board is different from your diagram which shows a 5V power slot for each axis. Do I wire the 5V slot with only one 5V wire from one of the drivers or perhaps wire all three 5V wires into the one 5 V slot. Please advise.

I would not recommend slaving an axis using the method of taking an additional axis from the USB interface. Instead, wire both drivers to a single axis on the USB interface. This will insure perfect signal output to both drivers. If you requre the motors to spin in opposite directions, simply wire one of the motors to the driver reversing the coil A and B connections, or use a hex inverter (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/Tutorial-Two-Motors-Spinning-Oppositely-On-Single-Axis).

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I purchased a USB Breakout board, motors and drivers, paid for CNC USB Controller Software and I CAN NOT "Slave" an axis, but there is an option to do that. The moment I connect USB Breakout Board "Slave" option becomes shaded and I can no longer select it (becomes not functional). What is going on? Need help asap. Thanks

Can you send me a link to the digitizer you are using?

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Hi my names is Minh Truong I would like to said thank you very much for your video I got the system mach3 working fine but one thing I can NOT set and config the digitizer on the board IN4 I am not sure how to setup because in the Mach3 pin 14 for digitizer Please shoe me hoe to set it up for the digitizer.

From time to time we change providers of components for various reasons. I just spoke to our assembler and electronics employee to determine if he witnessed the same issues. He said they work, but are not as easy to use as the previous terminal block. We will make sure not to use this provider anymore and will search for a better quality terminal block.


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Boom thats the answer. Your quick and thorough response and dedication to correcting the problem is why i choose to do business with you and encourage others to do the same!

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Thank you for that kind response!

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2.5A small stepper driver I received has blue connection blocks instead of green like on the last three I got. wow what a difference in ease of wiring with the green blocks. Please i don't know what the savings are but it's not worth it unless the price can be dropped as well. the green blocks have a "chute" style guide for each wire which keeps it under the metal tab while tightening.

Yes, the Mach3 USB board has two terminals that require 24V connection. Most VFDs have a 24V output that can be used to power this part of the Mach3 USB board.

The V+ and V- on the Mach3 USB is not absolutely necessary to operate the CNC machine/router. The V+ and V- of the Mach3 USB board powers the outputs, inputs, and spindle's speed and control.

Here is the Mach3 USB link for more information:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

The new YL600 VFD we have in stock may not have this 24V output. There is a 12V terminal, but I have not tested that terminal if it outputs 12V, or if it is a 12V input. If you are only conecting limit switches to the Mach3 USB and need to power that portion, 12V will be sufficient.

I will delve into these aspects in far more detail on video.

Thanks and Merry Christmas to you as well!

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Hey Guys, I have a brand new redleaf and 5x. In the final stages of wiring and wondering a few things. Can I connect the Mach3 USB board V+ V- to my frequency inverter (type YL600-2s-2k20)? If so where? Will your upcoming (part 2)video deal with this as well as final connections for limit switches and stop button? Merry Christmas!

can not get the limit switches to work on the usb controller board

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Wiring the motors to the drivers for our 8 wire motor is probably the 425 oz-in NEMA 24 stepping motor. Here is the URL for the diagram of the motor:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM60HT86-2008BF-U%20(inhouse%20PN.60BYGH303-13)%20(1).pdf

Wire it in bipolar parallel as specified on the data sheet.

Here is the URL for the motor to check if it is the same that you purchased.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-nema24-425ozin

The USB mach3 board URL is here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

The wiring diagram is on that page and instruction on how to use it.

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I recently purchased the 3 axis mach3 usb kit the motors have 8 different colored wires (no stripes on wire just solid color) all instructions have different colors. cannot find tutorals. does the mach 3 hook up same as planet? please let me know where I can find wiring diagram to hook up mach 3 usb BOB and motors (I am new to this kind of work projects)

The upper right hand corner of the data sheet found at https://buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM86HT80-5504B-U(inhouse%20PN.85BYGH450A-47-80)%20(1).pdf labels the coil wires A-D and also by color, which refers to the colors coming off of the motor. Our specification for A+, A-, B+, B- follows the labeling of the driver connections where A+ is coil A's positive lead and the same for the B coil. If you find yourself wiring 4-wire stepper motors without a datasheet, you can easily determine which colors go together with an ohmmeter. Each pair associated with the same coil will have continuity (negligable resistance) between them.

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Wiring the greenBull stepper motors, in the video you say to look at the data sheet for the motor, which is the 651, in the data sheet it shows A, B, C, D, for the colors, and in the video you say A+, A- and so on. Is there a video for wiring the connection to the RedFly that I bought to better explain what I need to do next. I'm using 16c4 SO cord, so I can match color to color on the motor side.

Polabs prepared step by step user guide for PoKeys57CNC and Mach4 to try answering such questions. It is available in our downloads section: https://www.poscope.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/Pokeys/LibrariesAndPlugins/Mach4 and PoKeys57CNC - step by step guide.pdf

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I need your assistance... I have two items left to setup on my Pokey57CNC and Mach4, Home switches and Spindle Speed. I have watched the videos, but they are for Mach3 and the screens are different in Mach4. Can someone please explain the setup of these two items in Mach4?

Please contact us at sales@buildyourcnc.com so we can provide you with assistance on your order

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I am trying to purchase a kit for our school in Singapore, and your site keeps refusing our corporate AMEX card. Can you help us figure out what is up with that? Are you not ship to Singapore or something? Our AMEX rep says that the account is authorised for this purchase from our end, so the problem may be with your site? Please advise.

Here is how to connect your router to the parallel breakout board through the on-board relay. You will need a spare extension cord. You will need to remove a portion of the outer jacket of the extension cord to expose the white, black and green wires (white = neutral, black = live and green = ground), understanding that the neutral and live create the completed circuit.

See this image of a similar connection. The terminal has the same connections.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/vacuum-pressure-controller-relay-terminals-700.JPG

Image of the relay terminal:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/breakoutboardrelayNONC.PNG

The live/black wire would be cut and one end of the cut would be secured into the P terminal and the other cut end would be secured into the S terminal. The live and ground wire would be uncut and travel from the plug to the router.


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You can also connect other high powered devices to the breakout board using any of the output terminals. You will need to supply extra relays like the one shown here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-breakout-Relays-relay-board-250V-12A-5V

Or you can find SSRs (Solid State Relays) that will accept 5v to drive the relay coil. Make sure the SSR will protect the 5V line from Back EMF as there is a coil in the relay. The one we sell contains a fly-back diode to protect the 5v terminal.

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I have your breakout board with relay parallel port , I have a vacuum, light on router and air pump I want to also hook up to board, can I hook those up to board and also could I had reylays to each one, what is the best way to figure this out any information would be great. Thanks

The leadscrew length for the greenBull long Z-axis is 47 inches.

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Building one of your greenBull 6X Long and 2.2 kilowatt spindle does not fit. Seems lead screw you sent with kit is short 42" looks like it needs to be 5 or 6 inch longer. Is this correct? What is the needed length of lead screw for this unit?