The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

You would use a combination of bearings and collars to prevent your lead screw or rod from being able to move back and forth. Without it being able to move back and forth, you shouldn't have the couplings coming apart, because the motor is solidly mounted and unable to move as well.

I will try to draw a picture using symbols, with a key to define what each part is.

--CB|--------------|BC}{M

- = Lead Screw or Rod
C = Collar
B = Bearing
| = Wood, the frame of your machine
}{ = Coupling
M = Motor

On the example above you could replace the collar on the motor side with one half of the coupling, putting it right upside of the bearing to hold it in place instead. Like this:

--CB|--------------|B}{M

You could also place the bearings on the inside as follows:

----|BC----------CB|--}{M

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can you please specify how to connect the collar/nut and bearings to prevent the axial movement of lead screw. Do I have to put that next to the stepper motor /coupling assembling or on the other side where the lead screw comes out. Or is there any way I can make the flexible coupling rigid so it does not come out of the middle spider?

There is a multitude of methods to create the table and frame for the greenBull long-z CNC machine, as some of the illustrations are shown on our gB webpage.

The image with the hollow mid section, is a custom table that will take advantage of the entire long-z axis assembly. So the frame can be built in that manner, however the CNC table should have its 3/4" table top. So you can cut standard sheets of wood, aluminum, plastics, etc.

So that specific illustration is not needed, however if you plan on cutting at that depth then it will defiantly benefit you to have that frame as shown in the illustration!

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Can you please clarify what a long Z axis table should look like? I've built a frame that matches the dimensions on the GreenBull page but under long Z it says a custom frame is required made out of steel, which I did. But do I need to have the frame open like shown in the picture or is that just showing what the table looks like under the 3/4 material?

That will depend on the controller that was installed in the redFly. If the controller is a pokeys57CNC controller, you can use Mach 4 with that system.

You can add a 4th axis and an ATC (Automatic Tool Changer) with the redFly system.

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Does the Redfly that I bought with the GreenBull in 2016 work with Mach4? Also I want to add a 4th axis and a spindle with automatic tool changer. Will this work too or do I need a new control board? I bought my CNC with a longer Z travel, so I have plenty of room for these. Thanks!

The 2.5 amp driver can only accept a power supply between 12 volts and 24 volts. If a 36 volt power supply is used for this driver, the main driver chip will exceed its maximum voltage rating and cause failure.

If you need to spin your motor faster, you can either use a more appropriate driver (i.e. 3.0 amp driver) or you can change the mechanical parts so the axis has faster travel.

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Can I connect a 36V power supply to 2.5 AMP Stepper Motor Driver. On the actual driver it shows 12V - 24V, but in the description and data sheet it indicates that it can accept 8V - 45V. Will I benefit from more powerful power supply. Thanks

BYCNC Response:
This is correct. You will need to use a method appropriate for the software you are using. Also remember that NC switches are typically wired in series, while NO switches are normally wired in parallel.

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I am using the cnc planet software for your USB board. Are the limit configurations in this software?

BYCNC Response:
Yes, Planet CNC software is compatible with the use of limit switches. Configuration information will depend on your specific application. You can view Planet CNC's information here: http://www.planet-cnc.com/files/CNCUSBController.pdf

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Limit switches for axis. The print shows that you can wire the limits either n.o. or n.c. so if this is correct I would need to tell the board in the software how to look at these limits, I'm either going to get an input or loose an input depend on how i wire it.

Modifying the Z-axis to accommodate a larger motor will be a worth while task and is possible, however we have not calibrated the z-axis therefore using the 1600 Steps-per inch in the motor tuning on our machine in our shop. We have not noticed any significant depth increments from not calibrating the z-axis but only from zeroing the z axis too close to the material. Also in your design did you specify the actual depth and the length of tool (end mill/ bit) that you are using?

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I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.

BYCNC Response:
This is correct. You will need to use a method appropriate for the software you are using. Also remember that NC switches are typically wired in series, while NO switches are normally wired in parallel.

User Response:
I am using the cnc planet software for your USB board. Are the limit configurations in this software?

BYCNC Response:
Yes, Planet CNC software is compatible with the use of limit switches. Configuration information will depend on your specific application. You can view Planet CNC's information here: http://www.planet-cnc.com/files/CNCUSBController.pdf

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LIMIT SWITCHES FOR AXIS. THE PRINT SHOWS THAT YOU CAN WIRE LIMITS EITHER N.O. OR N.C. SO IF THIS IS CORRECT I WOULD NEED TO TELL BOARD IN SOFTWARE HOW LOOK AT THESE LIMITS, I'M GOING GET AN INPUT LOOSE DEPEND ON IT.

The E.oA.A is an error that the VFD specifies as an overcurrent during ramp up (or acceleration). In other words, the spindle is trying to accelerate to quickly. The spindle cannot handle the inertia during ramp up and it is trying to draw too much current during this process. The best solution that I have researched is to increase the ramp up (acceleration) time, or slow the acceleration. You will need to check which programming setting you need to change, but there will be setting called acceleration time (or ramp up time). Increase this number in small increments until the error goes away. Then, increase it more so there is a safety factor.

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I have the 1.5kW spindle using the 110V vfd which I bought new and has never run correctly for me. The spindle will not accelerate to any reasonable speed before stopping. When it stops, the vfd display reads "E.oA.A". It does not appear to be wiring or settings, I have checked those many times. What else should I look at to troubleshoot this? Is it DOA?

Decreasing the speed of acceleration in the cutter? Meaning of your router/spindle?, To modify the speed of a router will be going to the router itself and modifying the speed, but if a spindle is being used modifying it will be done either manually in the VFD (VFD Setup:
Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequency - Hz)
Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution))<- make sure these are your settings in the VFD. If the spindle is wired to the breakout board and is working through Mach 3 then the modification will be done in your CamBam/Feed rate settings.

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How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

From time to time we change providers of components for various reasons. I just spoke to our assembler and electronics employee to determine if he witnessed the same issues. He said they work, but are not as easy to use as the previous terminal block. We will make sure not to use this provider anymore and will search for a better quality terminal block.


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Boom thats the answer. Your quick and thorough response and dedication to correcting the problem is why i choose to do business with you and encourage others to do the same!

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Thank you for that kind response!

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2.5A small stepper driver I received has blue connection blocks instead of green like on the last three I got. wow what a difference in ease of wiring with the green blocks. Please i don't know what the savings are but it's not worth it unless the price can be dropped as well. the green blocks have a "chute" style guide for each wire which keeps it under the metal tab while tightening.

In all CNC electronics configurations, you will need the motor paired with its own driver.

If two motors/drivers are intended for a single axis and the motors need to turn at the same rate and in the same direction, then the two drivers for these motors should be connected to the same signal wires from the breakout board (step (CP) and direction (CW)) signal wires.

If the motors need to turn in opposite directions, then either one driver will need to have the direction signal inverted, or resolve the opposite direction through a change in the mechanical drive train (i.e. flip the rack on a rack and pinion configuration, or in a roller chain setup, have the chain ride along the opposite side of the drive sprocket).

How do I go about purchasing a redleaf system with 4 drivers, where the (y) and (a) driver are connected to the same signal from the breakout board? I'd also need them to rotate in opposite directions.

The redLeaf webpage contains a purchase option for an extra motor and driver. We can setup the redLeaf system uniquely so it conforms to your application (i.e. motors running in opposite directions).

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I've built a machine where the y axis has (2) 425oz motors, x axis has (1) 425oz. motor, and the z axis also has (1) 425oz motor. Would it be better to purchase a redleaf system with 4 drivers? or can I just connect both y axis motors to the same driver for a total of 3 drivers?

This is most likely a wiring issue. I would disconnect all of the power to the drivers and reconnect one at a time to isolate the problem.

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that was not helpful. I already did that way before submitting this question. there are not that many wires here and I have already rewired this a few times. I actually think its a software or interface board issue because it does work sometimes but then trips (possibly a amperage / voltage issue) I am using the interface board that has a parallel port and usb for 5V. are there different settings that I need to setup?

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I'm using the big 651oz in stepper motor for X and Y and the smaller 325 for the z and X and Y keep tripping when I try to tune the motors on Mach3 but Z seems to work. I have to turn power on and off to reset....is this a wiring issue?

The greenBull instructions are found on our website. Each machine has a page, which you can locate by clicking on "CNC Machines" from the left hand menu and choosing the particular machine you have. Scroll to the bottom of that machine page and you will find complete instructions. The page for the greenBull 5X, for example, is : https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-greenBull-v4-5X

The redFly is typically sold with motors already wired to conductor cable with 4-pin connectors; these need simply to be plugged into the control box. There is no soldering required. If you have a different configuration, please contact us directly at techsupport@buildyourcnc.com with information about your specific application (and a photo, if possible) and we will be happy to provide you with further guidance.

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How do I know how to hook up the red fly? What color wires do I solder on which pin of the connectors? Was there suppose to be any instructions that came with it, or the entire greenbull for that matter?

That is correct. We send the fewer ribs than could be fastened within the gantry. One reduction of a rib will provide more space for the motor at the midpoint of the gantry and at the other side of the gantry (opposite the motor) can be reduced to provide more space to work with the coupling.

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I'm assembling the gantry for a 5x10 greenbull and noticed that there are 9 spaces for torsion spacers but only 7 in the kit. Should I just space them out on the right side behind the motor?

There is some variation in the outward appearance of laser power supplies due to sourcing through different vendors. However, the basic wiring requirements are the same in each case. For the unit with integrated laser controller, follow the diagram found here: https://buildyourcnc.com/blackToothLaserCutterAndEngraver.aspx#prettyPhoto/0/. The terminals on the signal side will have a 6 connection terminal block -- these are the ones labeled 5V, IN, G, P (or WP), L (or TTL-L), and H (or TTL-H). The High Power side will have 3 inputs for AC power, one high voltage lead, and one return line. Connect these as shown in the diagram as well: the return line goes on the "front" (beam exit end) terminal of the laser tube, the high voltage lead goes to the "back" terminal of the tube, the FG terminal (or G) receives the earth ground wire of the AC power cable, and the two AC terminals receive the line and neutral wires of the AC power cable (it doesn't matter in this case which wire goes to which terminal).

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I purchased the blackTooth Laser Engraver with integrated Laser Control Unit and have been following your instructions. I noticed that the laser tube power supply is different that what is shown in your instructions. Do you have any better wiring guides that I can follow for the version that I received?

The size of the stepper motor is measured in holding torque, generally oz/in. You will determine the torque loads of your axes when selecting steppers. Once you know which stepper you need, the drivers and controller board are simple to pair with them.

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I'm trying to build my CNC router 3m*1.3m, but i'm not sure what is the type of stepper motor i should pay, all my CNC body is Al. I need to bay 4 Stepper motors, 4 drivers, spindle, inverter, and i don't know what is the type of controller ?

If you already have a Mach3 license, you don't need to purchase another one. The license is connected to you rather than the computer. Mach4 is licensed to the computer, but you are able to have multiple computers for each license, and can be switched from one computer to another.

If you purchased the license from me, you can call (make sure to leave a voicemail), or email to get a re-issued license.

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[575] I have an older CNC (2018) which has been working fine. The Windows 7 PC crashed and I am trying to get operational again using a windows 10 machine. I will have to buy a new license for the Mach 3 so will need to get the interface board I have to talk to MAch 3. Can I get just the disc or is there a place I can download what I need?