The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

If you have the laser firing using the Z direction, then you want to make sure that the thickness and clearance plane is extremely small. The time it takes for the software to think that the z axis has lowered to the depth set in the design is causing the laser to stay on in a single position for too long. Make sure that the depth is extremely small, like .0001" or the smallest amount allowed by the Vectric software. Also, make sure the clearance plane (the height that the z axis would raise to clear any protrusions like clamps and the such) is extremely low.

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I have been using a Blacktooth for some time, with Vectric2d and Mach3. I have always found that the laser burns a hole before moving off. I have always set material thickness at actual value. Should it be set very low? Also, of the many post processors supplied with 2d, which is best for Blacktooth?

The E.Lu.5 Error code on your VFD is related to Low Voltage.

The recommended action is:
- 1. Check whether the input voltage is normal. (the voltage from the wall/breaker to the VFD)
- 2. Check whether there is a sudden change in load.
- 3. Check whether there is any phase missing.

Unfortunately, these three recommended actions will probable require an electrician to test the line going into the VFD.

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I have wired up my 110v VFD and my 2.2Kw spindle and I get an E.Lu.5 code. My wiring is correct and the parameters are set to those for the VFD according to your website I found in a previously answered question from someone here. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!!

Is there a test button on the laser tube power supply? You can test the laser output by using the test button. This will help you determine if the laser tube is bad, or if you have wiring issues. Sometimes, wiring to he TL may not work as some controllers are set to active low, so you may need to wire the controller to TH instead.

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Additionally, the mA on the high tension line does not have any relationship to the digital trigger signal from the controller to the power supply.

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I am building my own laser and have watch your trocen videos.....but laser wont fire...double checked wiring and all seems correct to diagram....but the kit i bought was for a 40 watt and i amd using a 60 watt power supply and tube.....What size does the power switching unit need to be ....I think mine is too small for the trigger mA

That will depend on the controller that was installed in the redFly. If the controller is a pokeys57CNC controller, you can use Mach 4 with that system.

You can add a 4th axis and an ATC (Automatic Tool Changer) with the redFly system.

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Does the Redfly that I bought with the GreenBull in 2016 work with Mach4? Also I want to add a 4th axis and a spindle with automatic tool changer. Will this work too or do I need a new control board? I bought my CNC with a longer Z travel, so I have plenty of room for these. Thanks!

Many shielded cables come in various materials and designs, so having one with a copper mesh covering the inner insulator wire is no problem. We currently use a extension cord found locally at a hardware store and include one 18G wire for ground. So a specific shielded cable is not a required, unless being used next to specific and sensitive electronics that are extremely sensitive to noise and voltage interference than a shielded cable is required.

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I purchased a 2.2 spindle a while back and went to the electrical supply house to but shielded cable for the power run, I was on the web a while back and saw a picture of shielded cable that didn't look like what I had bought. should it have a copper like mesh wraped around the inner insulation. Thanks

If the Z-Axis is moving down when you press the page up or page down (or by moving the z-axis by another means like with an MPG, Pendant, or the built-in MPG in Mach3), then the direction signal wire is not connected correctly. The direction signal wire works by moving in one direction with a low signal (like gnd) and moving in the other direction with a high signal (like 5v). If the signal stays at one of the two signals, it will only move in the direction of the current signal state. Recommended action is to determine if the DIR- and DIR+ signal wires are connected securely and make good contact at the driver and controller sides.

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I installed a pokeys57cnc and use Mach3 for the mill. When I page up or down the Z axis moves down. Is there a setting I need to change? I checked the Z axis wiring and it matches the X and Y axis which function correctly.

If the Z-Axis is moving down when you press the page up or page down (or by moving the z-axis by another means like with an MPG, Pendant, or the built-in MPG in Mach3), then the direction signal wire is not connected correctly. The direction signal wire works by moving in one direction with a low signal (like gnd) and moving in the other direction with a high signal (like 5v). If the signal stays at one of the two signals, it will only move in the direction of the current signal state. Recommended action is to determine if the DIR- and DIR+ signal wires are connected securely and make good contact at the driver and controller sides.

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I installed a pokeys57cnc and use Mach3 for the mill. When I page up or down the Z axis moves down. Is there a setting I need to change? I checked the Z axis wiring and it matches the X and Y axis which function correctly.

To make an axis move in the opposite direction to what it is currently moving, you will need to toggle the ":direction:" active low setting for that axis. for instance, if when you press the page up button and your z-axis move down instead of up, then you need to make this change in the configuration.

To do this in Mach3:
- Click on the config option in the top menu
- Click on ports & pins
- Click on the motor outputs tab
- on the axis you wish to reverse, click on the "dir active low" to toggle the state of that parameter.

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I installed a pokeys57cnc and use Mach3 for the mill. When I page up or down the Z axis moves down. Is there a setting I need to change? I checked the Z axis wiring and it matches the X and Y axis which function correctly.

You may need to add the m7 or m8 code to turn on the coolant or mist and m9 to turn it off. I will look further into this to see if mach3 can turn on the coolant when the spindle is turned off. I believe the coolant is a separate function from the spindle control since you may not need coolant for every material that you will be milling.

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I have tried typing M7 and M8 into the MDI with no success. I can toggle the coolant on and off using the flood control button. Water flows and the LED lights on the diagnostic page. I followed the setup instructions in the video on the Pokeys57CNC page, which includes the spindle setup page. Those videos are very helpful.

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To close this question - The M7 M8 commands did start working. I never figured out why they would not work before. I still cannot get the coolant to turn on with the spindle from the Mach3 set up. I have given up and just make sure the M command is in the g code.

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I can turn the flood coolant on using the toogle in Mach3 so Mach3 is talking to the PokeysCNC board (using output3). In spindle setup, Output3 is assigned to flood and the disable box is not checked. Output 3 is enabled and assigned to the correct relay. However, coolant does not come on when the spindle is turned on. Any suggestions about what I am doing wrong would be appreciated.

Are you using the control panel (front panel with the speed control knob known as he potentiometer)? Or are you attempting to use the computer to control the speed?

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I am using the control panel, however there is no knob on mine, just buttons.

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Hello, I bought your 110v 2.2kw spindle and vfd. When I turn it on it reaches the full 24000 rpm, but will not let me decrease the speed. How Can I fix this?

The upper right hand corner of the data sheet found at https://buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM86HT80-5504B-U(inhouse%20PN.85BYGH450A-47-80)%20(1).pdf labels the coil wires A-D and also by color, which refers to the colors coming off of the motor. Our specification for A+, A-, B+, B- follows the labeling of the driver connections where A+ is coil A's positive lead and the same for the B coil. If you find yourself wiring 4-wire stepper motors without a datasheet, you can easily determine which colors go together with an ohmmeter. Each pair associated with the same coil will have continuity (negligable resistance) between them.

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Wiring the greenBull stepper motors, in the video you say to look at the data sheet for the motor, which is the 651, in the data sheet it shows A, B, C, D, for the colors, and in the video you say A+, A- and so on. Is there a video for wiring the connection to the RedFly that I bought to better explain what I need to do next. I'm using 16c4 SO cord, so I can match color to color on the motor side.

If you already have a Mach3 license, you don't need to purchase another one. The license is connected to you rather than the computer. Mach4 is licensed to the computer, but you are able to have multiple computers for each license, and can be switched from one computer to another.

If you purchased the license from me, you can call (make sure to leave a voicemail), or email to get a re-issued license.

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[575] I have an older CNC (2018) which has been working fine. The Windows 7 PC crashed and I am trying to get operational again using a windows 10 machine. I will have to buy a new license for the Mach 3 so will need to get the interface board I have to talk to MAch 3. Can I get just the disc or is there a place I can download what I need?

A wireless MPG is generally independent of the controller since it communicates to Mach3 directly and does not pass through the controller. I am using a wireless MPG and I have no problems with either of the controllers that I sell (Mach3 USB controller or the Pokeys57CNC controller).

The issue you are having may be in the configuration of the wireless MPG that you are using.

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I am trying to decide which board I should use. I have a wireless MPG and every time I jog Z my X axis steps. If this is not a board issue I would like to go with a wired MPG. So I would like a board that I can have a wired MPG, use a tool touch off probe, control either spindle (VFD) on/off or on/off with speed control, and have homing switches.

This would totally work for that application. This cable carrier is used for any object that needs to move and carries some electrical or tubing within it. This cable carrier is great for cable management where you want to make sure the wires and tubes are in a position that you set, not where the wires and tubing want to go.

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[311] I am looking to use this type of thing with a pipe for theater. Where the pipe can be lowered and it would have electrical and signal cable inside. Is this good for that or should I look at something else?

I am assuming that you are referring to the Mach3 USB controller.

Your understanding seems mostly correct, but it's important to clarify a few points regarding the 3D touch probe and the Mach3 USB Interface Board. The probe has three wires: 24V+, 24V-, and a signal wire. Here's how it typically works:

24V+ and 24V- Wires: These are for powering the probe. Make sure they are connected to the appropriate power supply.

Signal Wire: This wire sends the signal to the board when the probe is activated. In your case, it seems to be connected to pin 4.

Active Low Setting: If the probe is Normally Open (NO), when activated (i.e., when it touches the surface), it will complete the circuit. If you're using "active low NOT ticked," this means the board will interpret an open circuit (no contact) as an active signal. When the probe touches a surface and closes the circuit, the signal will stop.

It's crucial to ensure that the probe's voltage specifications match what the Mach3 USB Interface Board can handle. Since the board's inputs might not be designed for a 24V signal, using a voltage divider or an appropriate interface circuit to step down the voltage to a safe level for the board might be necessary.

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Hi. I have just purchared this board and will be using a 3d touch probe. The probe has 3 wires, 24v+, 24v- and a signal wire to the pin 4 (I think). The way I see it is that the probe is NO and the signal wire when activated will send a 24v+ signal to pin 4 (active low NOT ticked) activating the board. Would I be right in this understanding? Much apreciated.

The leadscrew length for the greenBull long Z-axis is 47 inches.

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Building one of your greenBull 6X Long and 2.2 kilowatt spindle does not fit. Seems lead screw you sent with kit is short 42" looks like it needs to be 5 or 6 inch longer. Is this correct? What is the needed length of lead screw for this unit?

You want to look for the analog input terminals in the wiring diagram in the manual for your VFD. I believe the VFD you have, the XSY-AT1 has three terminals that will accept an analog voltage to adjust the speed. These terminals are:
COM or ACM - this is where the ACM from the controller will connect
VI/CI - The AVI will connect to this terminal which is the actual voltage level that will determine the speed from 0 to 10V.
10V - This connects to the 10V terminal of the controller which will provide 10V to the controller allowing the top voltage reference for the controller. This will provide a 0 to 10V range for the AVI or VI/CI terminals, and if 5V is available on the VFD, then the range will be 0 to 5V.

The parameter you need to change in the VFD is P10 which will change the source of the frequency, either the control panel which is the default (0 or 1, keys or potentiometer - dial, if that is available on the VFD), External analog signals which are the ACM, VI/CI and 10V/5V terminals in the VFD, or the RS485 which is a serial connection to the computer. You want to set this parameter to the External terminals which may be 2, but check your manual for the proper value.

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I'm hooking up the VFD Controller to the USB controller to control the speed of the spindle. In your video you have the wire from the USB controller to the ACM of the VFD controller. The VFD controller I have is a XSY-AT1 model AT1-2200s. It does not have an ACM contact. It does however have a SP1 contact, is this where I land that wire?