The leadscrew length for the greenBull long Z-axis is 47 inches.

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Building one of your greenBull 6X Long and 2.2 kilowatt spindle does not fit. Seems lead screw you sent with kit is short 42" looks like it needs to be 5 or 6 inch longer. Is this correct? What is the needed length of lead screw for this unit?

The leadscrew length for the greenBull long Z-axis is 47 inches.

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BUILDING ONE OF YOUR GREENBULL 6X LONG AND 2.2 KILOWATT SPINDLE DOES NOT FIT. SEEMS LEAD SCREW YOU SENT WITH KIT IS SHORT 42" LOOKS LIKE IT NEEDS TO BE 5 OR 6 INCH LONGER. THIS CORRECT? WHAT THE NEEDED LENGTH FOR UNIT?

There is some variation in the outward appearance of laser power supplies due to sourcing through different vendors. However, the basic wiring requirements are the same in each case. For the unit with integrated laser controller, follow the diagram found here: https://buildyourcnc.com/blackToothLaserCutterAndEngraver.aspx#prettyPhoto/0/. The terminals on the signal side will have a 6 connection terminal block -- these are the ones labeled 5V, IN, G, P (or WP), L (or TTL-L), and H (or TTL-H). The High Power side will have 3 inputs for AC power, one high voltage lead, and one return line. Connect these as shown in the diagram as well: the return line goes on the "front" (beam exit end) terminal of the laser tube, the high voltage lead goes to the "back" terminal of the tube, the FG terminal (or G) receives the earth ground wire of the AC power cable, and the two AC terminals receive the line and neutral wires of the AC power cable (it doesn't matter in this case which wire goes to which terminal).

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I purchased the blackTooth Laser Engraver with integrated Laser Control Unit and have been following your instructions. I noticed that the laser tube power supply is different that what is shown in your instructions. Do you have any better wiring guides that I can follow for the version that I received?

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The E.oA.A is an error that the VFD specifies as an overcurrent during ramp up (or acceleration). In other words, the spindle is trying to accelerate to quickly. The spindle cannot handle the inertia during ramp up and it is trying to draw too much current during this process. The best solution that I have researched is to increase the ramp up (acceleration) time, or slow the acceleration. You will need to check which programming setting you need to change, but there will be setting called acceleration time (or ramp up time). Increase this number in small increments until the error goes away. Then, increase it more so there is a safety factor.

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I have the 1.5kW spindle using the 110V vfd which I bought new and has never run correctly for me. The spindle will not accelerate to any reasonable speed before stopping. When it stops, the vfd display reads "E.oA.A". It does not appear to be wiring or settings, I have checked those many times. What else should I look at to troubleshoot this? Is it DOA?

The digital signal portion of the CO2 laser tube power supply has various terminals for signal power, signal gnd, laser intensity and engaging the laser (turning it on or off). The TL and TH are triggers to turn the laser power on or off. These may be labeled L or H on some laser power supplies. You can use either TL/L, or TH/H to control the laser.

If you use the TL or L terminal to control the laser:
If a low signal (gnd) is present at that terminal, the laser will turn on. If a high signal (5v) is present, the laser will turn off.

If you use the TH or H terminal to control the laser:
If a high signal (5v) is present at that terminal, the laser will turn on. If a low signal (gnd) is present, the laser will turn off.

You should first test the control signal from the interface with a multimeter to make sure the laser will be controlled correctly before powering the laser power supply

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On the blacktooth machine wiring diagram for parallel breakout a wire goes from 6 on the BOB to TL on the laser power supply. My power supply has an"H" followed by a "L". Which is correct? I've connected to the "L" but the laser appears always on.

This sounds like a problem with the step (pulse) signal. The driver motors receive two signals from the computer via the board -- one is high or low and tells the motors which direction to turn, one is a square wave pulsed signal(quick that tells the motor to turn or a constant high signal that tells the motor to maintain its position. With an oscilliscope you can check for proper signal at the board. If you bought the board from us, please contact us to arrange a return authorization.

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Y axis on usb controller not working. The motor gets power and holds but will not turn. I tried switching the same wires, driver, and motor over to the A axis on the controller and it works fine like that. I have double, and triple checked the wiring

Stepper motors are known to make noises while function, however this does not affect accuracy or job function. However we recommend to check your wiring for solid connections, and for good connectivity!



On a personal note, here is one cool video dealing with making songs with stepper motors!

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I bought and built the Blacktooth laser cutter. It works, but one of the stepper motors makes a loud static hiss a second after the CNC power supply is turned on or off, and makes loud tweets and twirps when running. It seems to operate fine otherwise. I was wondering if it was "going bad" or if that is normal?

The E.Lu.5 Error code on your VFD is related to Low Voltage.

The recommended action is:
- 1. Check whether the input voltage is normal. (the voltage from the wall/breaker to the VFD)
- 2. Check whether there is a sudden change in load.
- 3. Check whether there is any phase missing.

Unfortunately, these three recommended actions will probable require an electrician to test the line going into the VFD.

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I have wired up my 110v VFD and my 2.2Kw spindle and I get an E.Lu.5 code. My wiring is correct and the parameters are set to those for the VFD according to your website I found in a previously answered question from someone here. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!!

We have the image at that size to encourage the purchase of the kit from us. This helps to keep buildyourcnc alive and allows us to fund development of other awesome low cost machines.

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could you make available a larger size picture of the exploded view of the BlackTooth laser cutter? I would like to use for reference when building my laser cutter, but it is too small to be really useful.

You can test the power supply, but you will need to take extra special care since the voltage on the high tension line can be lethal. Go to this instructable to see all the step on testing the power supply:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-test-and-set-a-Chinese-China-made-CO2-Laser/?ALLSTEPS

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I am building the Blacktooth laser cutter. What is the safest and most accurate way to test the output of the laser power supply WITHOUT connecting the laser tube? Can I use a standard multimeter and measure the voltage output of the laser power supply?

Here are links to the sole pump and heat exchanger/fan. I am sending you amazon links sine I don't ahve listings of my pump and heat exchanger separately from my cooling system:
Pump: https://amzn.to/3R6zPbj
Fan/radiator (Heat exchanger): https://amzn.to/3UWOuqN

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I recently purchased a repalcement 12v DC Switching Power Supply, I hooked it up bur it did not power up the Pump and radiator. I verified the output of the unit at 12v. So I'm assuming I also need to replace the pump and the radiator. Can you supply me a link to purchase them?

Wiring diagrams for the Laser Power Supply will be mostly the same with the updated power supply. The main difference is the newer power supply contains a secondary green terminal block on the front of the power supply next where the hard leads are connected. This differs from the older power supply which had contact points on the back of the power supply. Please refer to the tutorials section for updated information and if you have specific questions please email techsupport@buildyourcnc.com

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I am assebling the Blacktooth CNC laser 20x24" with what appears to be an updated power supply. After refrencing the wiring diagram on line and the totorial, may I ask for an updated diagram or totorial, the current version do not appear to match match the configuration provided. I do not feel confidant in the educational guess, that I have. thanks

You will need PlanetCNC software for the USB breakout board and when plugging in the USB the computer should automatically recognize the board, however you can go into device manager to see if the USB terminal is working correctly.
The parallel breakout board; the USB is not a connection terminal rather than a power source, and the parallel port will be the communication terminal.
The items you will need for a water cooled spindle would be: water pump, silicon tubing(length desired by customer), a extension cord(from a hardware store(orange))(1 same gauge wire/length as extension cord).

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I am making my own CNC setup using all the electronics from your website and I have many questions. Please advise how to have my computer recognize the USB connection from my breakout board also I would like to use a water cooled spindle but I need to know the parts required for a 4x10 bed area used for woods and plastics

The 12V power supply has 3 terminals for AC in: N, L and earth ground. The output of the 12V power supply has 2 DC + and - terminals. Cut the connectors off of the ends of the fan and pump wires. Strip the red and black wires of both units. The fan will connect to the 12V power supply red to the + and black to the -. The pump will connect in the same way, but the white is not connected.

If you have a pump that has a grey and black wire on the large connector, the grey is the 12VDC V+ wire and the black wire goes to the V-. The extra wire does not need to be connected.

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I bought a gantry mounted spindle water cooler kit. I cut off the plug terminal on the end. There are three wires and it is labeled as a 12 V DC motor. How do I wire it to the power supply? No combination of connections seems to work. the fan runs fine. it

The 12V power supply has 3 terminals for AC in: N, L and earth ground. The output of the 12V power supply has 2 DC + and - terminals. Cut the connectors off of the ends of the fan and pump wires. Strip the red and black wires of both units. The fan will connect to the 12V power supply red to the + and black to the -. The pump will connect in the same way, but the white is not connected.

If you have a pump that has a grey and black wire on the large connector, the grey is the 12VDC V+ wire and the black wire goes to the V-. The extra wire does not need to be connected.

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I bought a gantry mounted spindle water cooler kit. I cut off the plug terminal on the end. There are three wires and it is labeled as a 12 V DC motor. How do I wire it to the power supply? No combination of connections seems to work. the fan runs fine. it

This is most likely a wiring issue. I would disconnect all of the power to the drivers and reconnect one at a time to isolate the problem.

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that was not helpful. I already did that way before submitting this question. there are not that many wires here and I have already rewired this a few times. I actually think its a software or interface board issue because it does work sometimes but then trips (possibly a amperage / voltage issue) I am using the interface board that has a parallel port and usb for 5V. are there different settings that I need to setup?

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I'm using the big 651oz in stepper motor for X and Y and the smaller 325 for the z and X and Y keep tripping when I try to tune the motors on Mach3 but Z seems to work. I have to turn power on and off to reset....is this a wiring issue?

If the sensors are NC (normally closed) you can wire them in series. If the sensors are NO (Normally Open) you can still wire them to the same input, but the wiring needs to be in parallel (like a ladder). I have more information on the following video:

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[788] Thanks for the oportunity to ask, I am building a cnc and using npn closed sensors could you help me with the conection of these, do i still connect them in series if i use more than two in each axis. Also you mention that a stop switch should be connected grd and input to the controller would that be done after the 24v power supply. Thanks r