We apologize for the confusion! The current greenBull kit in the video is a 4' x 8' gB CNC machine, so we currently have a shorter Y-axis length, compared to the 5X/6X kits. However with the gB 5X you should skip every other section(or something similar so it is symmetrical), since we added the option for you to increase the number of ribs if you wish, but is not necessary for the CNC machine.

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Building the 5x10 GreenBull, I went to install the ribs on the mid section of the gantry and you say in the video to skip a spot for the motor to sit, but I have 3 sections that are going to blank not just one like you show in the video. Do I skip more than one, am I missing ribs?

If you are referring to aligning the rails so that the rails are perfectly parallel:

It is important to make sure one rail (a rail at one side of the table) is perfectly aligned first. Do this by fastening one end of the rail to the table (flush with the table edge), then fasten the other end (flush with the table edge). The rail may not be perfectly straight at this point, but that's ok. This process includes the top and bottom rail, fastening and positioning simultaneously.

You are going to fasten the midpoint of the rail. Get a clamp ready so that you can freeze the rail in place. Look down the rail from one end. This is a good way to determine if the rail has a curve, or is straight. If there is a curve, move the rail midpoint laterally until the rail is straight while looking down the rail from one end of the rail. This may take a couple of people to do, one looks down the rail, the other moves it slightly until it is straight and then clamps the rail. Drill and fasten the midpoint when satisfied. Repeat this process, fastening at the midpoint between screws.

Now place the gantry on the table with the v-groove bearings resting on the one rail side. Add the next rail to the other side of the table. Position the rail so that it is directly under the other bearings. Make sure the gantry is at the extreme end and fasten the rail at that end. Move the gantry along the and fasten the rail as you move the gantry so the rail auto-positions itself.

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Thanks for your answer. So the next step is making certain that the gantry is exactly perpendicular to the x axis. Do you just place a square on the rail and adjust one or both chains as needed?

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Is there a specific process for aligning the x axis on the greenbull? There is mention of it at the end either the rail or gantry installation but I could not find it anywhere.

Actual table dimension: 4'x8' is 56.078"x 121.50" (the overhang in the illustrations should be 3/4" thick)
To determine the frame dimensions, first consider using the frame height shown of almost 3' (2.86'). The width of the frame should be 4" narrower than the dimension from rail edge to rail edge (6X rail to rail is 80.078"). This will provide a 2" overhang on both sides (4X frame width should be 56.078").
The length of the frame should be 4" shorter than the desired length of the rails to provide a 2" overhang on both ends. The travel length will be 20" shorter than the rail length due to the space occupied by the gantry sides.
Two long pieces of 3/4" material will need to be placed on top of the frame with the 2" overhang on the sides and the end. These long strips of material will receive the rails and the chain mounts on the ends.


Link:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-greenBull-v4-4X

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I have just purchased a 4x8 Greenbull system second-hand. Are there any schematics for table dimensions and rail-mounting available so that I can build a table? (previous owner disassembled)

The motors do get conditionally hot, because of the constant current going through the motor. The motors should not overheat and stall/fail they are built in the manner to withstand the constant current and heat. Modifying the machine to something that is considered a safe/personal machine is recommended for all our machines.

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Have there been problems with the Greenbull stepper motors overheating? I'm considering adding a fan with filtered inlet and outlet on the gantry plus heat sinks on X, Y and Z.

The upper right hand corner of the data sheet found at https://buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM86HT80-5504B-U(inhouse%20PN.85BYGH450A-47-80)%20(1).pdf labels the coil wires A-D and also by color, which refers to the colors coming off of the motor. Our specification for A+, A-, B+, B- follows the labeling of the driver connections where A+ is coil A's positive lead and the same for the B coil. If you find yourself wiring 4-wire stepper motors without a datasheet, you can easily determine which colors go together with an ohmmeter. Each pair associated with the same coil will have continuity (negligable resistance) between them.

Additional Information:


Additional Information:
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The resource you are looking for has been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable

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Wiring the greenBull stepper motors, in the video you say to look at the data sheet for the motor, which is the 651, in the data sheet it shows A, B, C, D, for the colors, and in the video you say A+, A- and so on. Is there a video for wiring the connection to the RedFly that I bought to better explain what I need to do next. I'm using 16c4 SO cord, so I can match color to color on the motor side.

You would use a combination of bearings and collars to prevent your lead screw or rod from being able to move back and forth. Without it being able to move back and forth, you shouldn't have the couplings coming apart, because the motor is solidly mounted and unable to move as well.

I will try to draw a picture using symbols, with a key to define what each part is.

--CB|--------------|BC}{M

- = Lead Screw or Rod
C = Collar
B = Bearing
| = Wood, the frame of your machine
}{ = Coupling
M = Motor

On the example above you could replace the collar on the motor side with one half of the coupling, putting it right upside of the bearing to hold it in place instead. Like this:

--CB|--------------|B}{M

You could also place the bearings on the inside as follows:

----|BC----------CB|--}{M

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can you please specify how to connect the collar/nut and bearings to prevent the axial movement of lead screw. Do I have to put that next to the stepper motor /coupling assembling or on the other side where the lead screw comes out. Or is there any way I can make the flexible coupling rigid so it does not come out of the middle spider?

The KL-4030 is a Keling 3.0 amp stepper motor driver. These are generally pretty robust drivers. You mentioned in the question that it worked for one hour. This sounds like it could be a contact issue with the wiring in the terminals. I would recommend that you check all of the connections. The terminals that are used in these drivers have terminals that are easily used incorrectly.

Make sure to open the terminal all the way using a small screw driver. Then insert the exposed wire into the opening and re-tighten the terminal. Make sure of a good connection by tugging on the wires.

Also, check kthe digital wires that connect from the driver to the control board.

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I have a KL-4030 stepper motor driver that I only have about an hour use on it but seems to be bad already. Has anyone out there had the same problem?

We apologize for the confusion, however in the very first video that is regarding the assembly, is of the torsion box. We do not included that in any greenBull kit, as we use too sell it individually! However due to high consumption of materials and high cost(both in shipping and for the kit itself) we have removed it from our inventory and no longer sell it.

This video can be skipped, however if you plan on making a DIY torsion box, this video will be helpful in your build!

The torsion box is not needed, as the frame itself will be more than sufficient in keeping the machine from flexing or vibrating.

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I ordered the GreenBull 5' x 10' kit. The first video for assembly shows that I should have 5 large boards that attach to the table, but I don't have those boards. Is that something I need to build or were they not shipped?

If you received fewer parts than is called for in the instructions, we will send the proper parts to you. Please call us to have these parts sent to you.

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I ordered the blacktooth laser cutter, there were only 4 red spade terminals, but the instructions pictures show that there should be more and would include blue spade terminals

I looked at a YouTube video and figured out the configuration for the motor mounts.

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Still working on GreenBull 5x10 assembly. Putting together the Z axis my motor mounts don't like the video, so I don't know which one goes where and in what orientation?

The greenBull 4X comes with all of the components and electronics to assemble the gantry of the machine. You will need to build the table. We provide the rails and roller chain for the X-axis (along the length of the table for full 8 feet of travel). You will need to provide some wire to connect the electronics and a computer to run the machine. You will also need to purchase the software that you will need to run the machine that matches how you will apply the machine. We suggest the mach3 control program. The CAM program is up to you as there are many options out there.

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I am interested in buying the greenBull 5X Long Z CNC Machine Kit, but it is not clear for me what is included in this kit. Is there anything else I need to get the machine work?

The settings that will have to be change will be your steps per inch in motor tuning (mach 3), or settings/axes(planetCNC). But we do not have the actual numbers/specs that will fit your 10 TPI 5 start lead screw, here is a tutorial video which explains how to get the exact numbers you need! (

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On the Book Build: I'm changing the 13TPI 1/2" lead screw with the 1/2" 10 TPI Acme screw with the anti backlash nut. This is for the Z axis only. What should I know about installing it and what are the numbers I need to plug into the motor tuning area.

You can get them from us. Please send an email to sales@buildyourcnc.com with your order information, or call our customer service line M-F 9-5 at 281-815-7701.

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Working on GreenBull 5x10 assembly and I am missing one 1/2 rigid coupling for installing the X axis motor and chain mounts. I am also missing the two 1/2 drive sprockets as well. Where can I get these items?

BYCNC Response:
Please send a photo of the bolts and assembly so we can determine the problem. Thanks.

User Response:
The holes on the Dremel holder are 0.442" and the bolt heads are 0.483". Picture will be sent. In the picture note that the left bolt has been ground down.

BYCNC Response:
You were sent incorrect fasteners due to a vendor change. We will be shipping the correct parts to you immediately, and thank you for letting us know about this mistake.

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I JUST RECEIVED MY WHITE ANT AND STARTED TO DO SOME BASIC ASSEMBLY. NOTICE THAT THE 1/4 X 20 BOLTS WITH PHILLIPS HEAD NOT FIT IN NOTCHES CUT FOR THEM - INSTANCE, ON DREMEL MOUNT. AM SUPPOSED BUY DIFFERENT HEADS, GRIND ALL DOWN, OR ROUTE OUT BIGGER NOTCHES. 3" BARELY Z-AXIS MOTOR

Our 1.5/2.2kW spindle will work with both setups, in our wiring diagram it is more seen as the Euro/AUS-style, however you can do the same thing with the North American style as well. Also depending on if you have single or three phase 220V, you can use pins R, S, T. A manual will arrive in the VFD box, which will have further information and diagrams.

Please seek a certified electrician if you are unsure of any aspect in wiring the spindle or VFD, since wiring to main lines will require wiring of the plug and main lines to the inverter and to avoid any damage or injury's while installing the 1.5/2.2kW spindle and VFD combo.

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On the wiring diagrams for the 220v inverters I noticed that there is one hot (220) a neutral and a ground. Will the inverter work with the American split phase system? Hot (120) hot (120) ground?

Which controller card are you using?

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USB connection can not move the gantry, it is connected but noticed in device manager is missing drivers. PCI serial port... any help would be great also there is two mach3 profiles one showers numbers moving as like the gantry should be but is not.

I'm not sure I understand the question. You are looking for spacers or sprockets?

Additional Information:
Nevermind, I found my answer. Thank you

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Since you don't sell the hardware only package for the Blackfoot 4'x8' can you tell me what items I should look for for the chain sprockets, spacers to mount them to the 1/2" rod, and chain? All the other parts I can source from elsewhere

There is a multitude of methods to create the table and frame for the greenBull long-z CNC machine, as some of the illustrations are shown on our gB webpage.

The image with the hollow mid section, is a custom table that will take advantage of the entire long-z axis assembly. So the frame can be built in that manner, however the CNC table should have its 3/4" table top. So you can cut standard sheets of wood, aluminum, plastics, etc.

So that specific illustration is not needed, however if you plan on cutting at that depth then it will defiantly benefit you to have that frame as shown in the illustration!

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Can you please clarify what a long Z axis table should look like? I've built a frame that matches the dimensions on the GreenBull page but under long Z it says a custom frame is required made out of steel, which I did. But do I need to have the frame open like shown in the picture or is that just showing what the table looks like under the 3/4 material?

The 12V power supply has 3 terminals for AC in: N, L and earth ground. The output of the 12V power supply has 2 DC + and - terminals. Cut the connectors off of the ends of the fan and pump wires. Strip the red and black wires of both units. The fan will connect to the 12V power supply red to the + and black to the -. The pump will connect in the same way, but the white is not connected.

If you have a pump that has a grey and black wire on the large connector, the grey is the 12VDC V+ wire and the black wire goes to the V-. The extra wire does not need to be connected.

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I bought a gantry mounted spindle water cooler kit. I cut off the plug terminal on the end. There are three wires and it is labeled as a 12 V DC motor. How do I wire it to the power supply? No combination of connections seems to work. the fan runs fine. it