BYCNC Response:
Please send a photo of the bolts and assembly so we can determine the problem. Thanks.

User Response:
The holes on the Dremel holder are 0.442" and the bolt heads are 0.483". Picture will be sent. In the picture note that the left bolt has been ground down.

BYCNC Response:
You were sent incorrect fasteners due to a vendor change. We will be shipping the correct parts to you immediately, and thank you for letting us know about this mistake.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I just received my White Ant and started to do some basic assembly. I notice that the 1/4 x 20 bolts with Phillips head do not fit in the notches cut for them - for instance, on the Dremel mount. Am I supposed to buy bolts with different heads, grind them all down, or route out bigger notches. The 3" bolts barely fit in the Z-axis motor mount.

The whiteAnt is no longer sold; the information on the website is to support legacy customers. We have spoken with you and are sending the materials that you need.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I am having difficulty with the wiring on the White Ant. The latest electronics that I received don't seem to be anything like the book or even the tutorials. For instance, the three stepper drivers need 6 pin connectors and ribbon cable. How are they wired? There was no thermocouple wire included. Thanks,

We just received our new inventory of motors and that specific stepper motor ski came back with only one shaft. I’m not at the office to look at this inventory, so if that is true, they will all be single shaft. We may have other stepper motors with included rear shafts, but I will have to see on Monday.

If I don’t have the double shaft, we will provide a refund upon receipt of the motors. My apologies for this error.

Additional Information:
Hi, I'm sending these motors back today. As I understand you, you might have some motors from the previous lot still in stock, and these would be double shaft but otherwise you don't have any and won't be getting any. If you do have two double shaft versions of this motor please send them; if you don't have two of them please let me know--today if possible--so I can start looking elsewhere. Thanks, Ted Armen

Click the link to add information to this solution:
we just received two nema 11 stepper motors per our order--USR2-2, however they are single shaft, we need double shaft, I thought that's what we ordered. We're sending them back, let me know if you do have the double shaft version and I'll try again to order them. I notice the model number on the motor ends in "A", where the packing slip shows "B".

There is some variation in the outward appearance of laser power supplies due to sourcing through different vendors. However, the basic wiring requirements are the same in each case. For the unit with integrated laser controller, follow the diagram found here: https://buildyourcnc.com/blackToothLaserCutterAndEngraver.aspx#prettyPhoto/0/. The terminals on the signal side will have a 6 connection terminal block -- these are the ones labeled 5V, IN, G, P (or WP), L (or TTL-L), and H (or TTL-H). The High Power side will have 3 inputs for AC power, one high voltage lead, and one return line. Connect these as shown in the diagram as well: the return line goes on the "front" (beam exit end) terminal of the laser tube, the high voltage lead goes to the "back" terminal of the tube, the FG terminal (or G) receives the earth ground wire of the AC power cable, and the two AC terminals receive the line and neutral wires of the AC power cable (it doesn't matter in this case which wire goes to which terminal).

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I purchased the blackTooth Laser Engraver with integrated Laser Control Unit and have been following your instructions. I noticed that the laser tube power supply is different that what is shown in your instructions. Do you have any better wiring guides that I can follow for the version that I received?

The board layout is different and the terminals have slightly different names, but the two boards function the same. The wiring diagram is the same for both boards. The plug-in driver for Mach3 is also the same, so you should not have a problem. If you do run into an issue, please let me know here and I will help you determine the problem.

Thanks

Additional Information:
Thank you for the assurance that the boards will function the same. You did not answer the primary question of wiring. The diagram shows a board with a 5V for each axis, the new boards have only 1 5V point on the axis side. In retrospect since this controller receives information and most possibly the 5V signal directly from the computer leading to the drivers. I will wire the X, Y and Z axis to the single 5V point and see what happens.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
received my mach 3 USB breakout board today. The layout of the board is different from your diagram which shows a 5V power slot for each axis. Do I wire the 5V slot with only one 5V wire from one of the drivers or perhaps wire all three 5V wires into the one 5 V slot. Please advise.

You should have no problem connecting the Pokeys57CNC controller to the drivers of your machine as long as the drivers have step (Pulse or PUL) and direction (DIR) terminals. You will need the cable pack that is sold separately so you can connect the headers/connectors of the pokeys57cnc controller to the drivers using ribbon cables.

I show this process in great detail on this page:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

Is you scroll down on the page, you will see a set of videos that show the process step-by-step.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I have a ShopBot CNC that was converted to Mach 3. The controller has gone out. I pourchased your Pokeys57 board, but I'm not sure I have everything I need. I think my motor drivers are OK, but am not sure how to wire them to what I purchased from you. Need Help. How can we make this work, or do I need a different board to distribute the movement signals to my drivers?

We apologize for the confusion! The current greenBull kit in the video is a 4' x 8' gB CNC machine, so we currently have a shorter Y-axis length, compared to the 5X/6X kits. However with the gB 5X you should skip every other section(or something similar so it is symmetrical), since we added the option for you to increase the number of ribs if you wish, but is not necessary for the CNC machine.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
Building the 5x10 GreenBull, I went to install the ribs on the mid section of the gantry and you say in the video to skip a spot for the motor to sit, but I have 3 sections that are going to blank not just one like you show in the video. Do I skip more than one, am I missing ribs?

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

Additional Information:
I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

Additional Information:
Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I have your Mach3 usb interface board and am interested in the relay board to turn plasma torch on/off. I have a different relay board that doesn't work, it needs 0/5v from output pin to trigger and the usb board doesn't put out 5 volts. Does this relay board need 5v on output or will work fine with this usb controller?

The files and hardware option for our machines has been removed from the site due to the following reasons:
Difficulty for the end use of the files and the challenges (and time/money) on our side to assist in using these files.
The abuse of these files over the internet.
Ultimately may reduce the sales of machines keeping us in business.
Sadly, this is what has come out of our company attempting to be open; however, the machines sold on this site is still far lower in price than the competition for the quality that we provide as we have a great desire to engender the cottage industry to fulfill their need for low end manufacturing. My sincere apologies if this causes any inconvenience.

Additional Information:
NO, is not possible, I can help with the shipping cost

Additional Information:

Click the link to add information to this solution:
Is it possible to buy just the electronics and hardware for the bigfoot along with the plans for the timber components so that I could have them cut here in the UK and reduce the amount of material that needs to be shipped?

Please email customerservice@buildyourcnc.com so we can assist you.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
Why are the instructions for assembly so difficult to follow at times? Thins seem out of sequence and the pictures do not line up to the sequence that the build foillows-especially with regards to wiring certain components

Hi. The HIWIN spec rail will fit standard M5 screws. If you are using non standard screws with wide heads, or pan heads that are a bit larger than a standard round heads, then it may not fit. Make sure to source screws that have standard round heads, or socket heads for fastening the 20mm HIWIN spec rails.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I purchased some of your 20mm Hiwin Linear Rails. M5 bolts do not fit flush. The head stands out. Is the spec sheet out of date? What bolts will fit this rail AND T Nuts compatible with 8020's 15 series extrusions? Thanks.

The axis and connection information for the 3D Printer Main Board can be found here in the instructions below the product information.

https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/3D-Printer-Component-electronicsAndMotors-3d-printer-mainboard-FDMElectronics-3dprintermainboard

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I purchased the driver boards and MB shield for the White Ant. None of the headers are labeled. Is there a diagram showing which headers is for which axis? Is there also a diagram showing which pin on the driver is ABCD? I have watched the vids and the boards in them do not match what was sent to me.

The 5x10 greenBull base kit comes with the structure, hardware, and electronics for motion control. In order to have a fully functional CNC you will need a table base for your machine, a spindle or router to handle your cutting applications, end mills (bits) for cutting, CAD, CAM and CNC software, and a computer. There are also accessories you can add such as limit switches, emergency stops, and cable carrier for cable management. If you are looking for more information or a formal quote please contact sales@buildyoucnc.com

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

Hey, sorry I just found the wiring diagram and see that #4 is disabled. My bad. Thanks.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I just purchased some wire for my 2.2 spindle as per your recommendation it's 14 AWG stranded wire for the VFD to Spindle (U, V, W) connections. However, it's a three wire (black, white and Ground). Which numbers on the female pin connector do I connect the wires to. Cheers.

Modifying the Z-axis to accommodate a larger motor will be a worth while task and is possible, however we have not calibrated the z-axis therefore using the 1600 Steps-per inch in the motor tuning on our machine in our shop. We have not noticed any significant depth increments from not calibrating the z-axis but only from zeroing the z axis too close to the material. Also in your design did you specify the actual depth and the length of tool (end mill/ bit) that you are using?

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.

The outputs are independent of the PWM function of the controller. The PWM uses the ACM and AVI outputs from the controller to the VFD along with the 10V input from the VFD to the controller. The 10V input serves as an upper voltage reference for the PWM output. The PWM output is discrete and does not connect with the ON/OFF outputs 1-4 terminals. Did you try testing the outputs without using the AVI and ACM PWM function?

Click the link to add information to this solution:
[575] Depending on the command I use (M3 S50, M3 S100, M3 S70) at a pmw base 100, Ill get not just output 1 with 24v, also outputs 2 3 or 4. Tested on 2 different boards and I just can't find the problem; at the configuration there is only output 1 enabled (port 3 pin1)

The stepper motor on the X axis on the VLXL is this motor here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-nema34-651ozin

There is no black lead on that motor and the connection diagram can be found here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM86HT80-5504B-U(inhouse%20PN.85BYGH450A-47-80)%20(1).pdf

Red - A+
Green - A-
Yellow - B+
Blue - B-

The wiring diagram on the instructions for the Vertical Laser XL is meant as a general guide for all laser systems. The motor specific to the axis should be checked against the datasheet to insure proper wiring.

The 24V power supply should be connected to the laser controller. The 36V power supply should be connected to the drivers to power the motion electronics.

Additional Information:
My fault. Must have had that backwards. I'm sure he told me the right way.

Additional Information:
Not a problem. The laser controller has two terminals labeled for the 24V connection.

The 36V power supply works really well for stepper motor drivers as the voltage/current on this power supply allows for best stepper motor performance with this laser application.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
Hello! Question about the x motor on the vlxl. There is no black lead. Is the yellow in its position? Also, I really just want to double check that this wiring diagram is solid. About to finish the wiring. Juan told me to use the 36V for the tube and 24 for the drivers. Correct?

Sure, let me check.

Additional Information:
Your order was shipped out on Tuesday (10/20/2020). I noticed that your email was not stored in the customer record when the order was made. I will send you the tracking number via email now.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
Placed an order for the cable set for the Pokeys57cnc interface on 10/20 but it is not showing up in My Account as being ordered. It was charged to my credit card and I have not had any info that it was received by you.

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

Click the link to add information to this solution:
I purchased limit switches from you mounted them on my machine and wire them to the breakout for using pin 12 and the ground on the breakout board, after a few minutes I got a message about a limit switch trip. Am I supposed to use the extra outport on the board instead of the ground?