VCC is the same as 5v. I will clarify on the instructions.

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In the BlackTooth instruction the concluding sentence suggests connecting a wire from the right terminal of the pot to the VCC on the Laser Supply. There is no VCC on the power supply for the Laser that I can find. So, does this wire go to a different terminal on the power supply, or somewhere else where VCC exists, such as either stepper motor control?

You can test the power supply, but you will need to take extra special care since the voltage on the high tension line can be lethal. Go to this instructable to see all the step on testing the power supply:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-test-and-set-a-Chinese-China-made-CO2-Laser/?ALLSTEPS

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I am building the Blacktooth laser cutter. What is the safest and most accurate way to test the output of the laser power supply WITHOUT connecting the laser tube? Can I use a standard multimeter and measure the voltage output of the laser power supply?

Yes, you can find all of the instructions for the blackToe CNC Router here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/cnc-machine-blacktoe-v4-2x4

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I recently purchase the BlackToe v2.1 (4x8) at a local school auction. The table is complete, however, it is missing the spindle and came in 4 (four) separate pieces. Are there plans for this machine that I would be able to use to reconstruct and determine if anything else is missing.

To verify, you are still getting the laser tube to fire, but the laser beam is weak and cannot cut or engrave any materials correct?

Have you checked your tube's tungsten post terminals to make sure they are getting good contact?
The Laser tube and laser power supply both have manufacture warranty, please email customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further assistance.

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Hello, I have a blacktooth laser cutter, the machine has 10hrs of work, suddenly in the middle of a job the laser beam lost all power, I can still se the purple plasma beam but with no power or intensity, the tube is fine, water is running through and there is no arcing to the chasis or some other part. I think it might be a faulty PS how can I test it, Do I have a warranty on it?

Can you check if there are cracks in the inner glass tube? Also, check to see if there is water between the inner glass tube and the outer glass tube. That will give you an indication of cracking in the inner glass tube.

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I was in the process of aligning mirrors for our vertical XL and suddenly the laser does not fire anymore, there is an arcing sound and a light near the Anode (positive) connector of the tube on the very inside. Do you think the laser tube would go bad so quickly? how could we avoid this?

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I purchased limit switches from you mounted them on my machine and wire them to the breakout for using pin 12 and the ground on the breakout board, after a few minutes I got a message about a limit switch trip. Am I supposed to use the extra outport on the board instead of the ground?

Identify the Control Signals: First, determine which control signals from the DB25 interface card are used for spindle speed control. Typically, these are PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signals or analog voltage signals.

VFD Configuration: Your VFD should be configured to accept the type of control signal your DB25 card provides. This involves setting parameters in the VFD that correspond to the type of input signal it will receive for speed control.

Wiring: Connect the appropriate output pins from the DB25 card to the input terminals on the VFD. This usually involves connecting the PWM or analog output to the corresponding input on the VFD. Make sure to consult the manuals for both your VFD and interface card for specific wiring details.

UCCNC Settings: Configure UCCNC to output the correct type of signal (PWM or analog) that matches your VFD's configuration. This is done through the software's spindle setup section.

Test and Adjust: Run some tests to ensure that the spindle speed is being correctly controlled by UCCNC. You might need to tweak settings in either the VFD or UCCNC for optimal performance.

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I am looking at purchasing your 2.2 kw water cooled spindle. I'm assuming it comes with the VFD. I have a rotary phase converter in my shop. Are these spindles 3 phase? And if so, can I bypass use of the VFD and control the spindle speed by the CAM software instead? Or is the VFD an absolute necessity to use on the spindle?

it is possible to install 2 motors on a single axis but you will require another driver and motor, but wire it directly to the same pins on your breakout board. Also the orientation of your motor since it is opposite side of the original so getting it to move accordingly to the original motor it will need to be orientated correctly. The slight shift could be the cause of the rod not being completely flat where the set screws are suppose to tighten the sprocket to the rod, so sanding it to a flatter surface might fix the shift in directions.
Currently do not have a kit or schematic available.

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Hello, I have a BlackToe 2 x 4 machine. I was wondering if it could be beneficial, or even possible to install two motors on the x-axis (one one each chain drive sprocket). I am noticing a slight shift in the gantry with each reversal of direction. If so, do you have a kit or schematic for this? Thanks

Our breakout board, does require 5v to operate the correct voltages coming in from the drivers and also coming in from your computer, now the 5V will be supplied by the USB connection, so no external power supply is needed, for either our USB/Parallel breakout board.

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Just for general knowledge. If a spindle gets i.e. 240VAC, and the drivers 36-50VDC for power, why do you need 5VDC for the Breakout Board (BlueBrew)? Is it only for the relay? I think I've seen other BoB's working without power supply, or am I wrong?

Cutting metal with lasers even at 100W and 130W is difficult. The main problem is molten is a byproduct of lasing, which can severely damage the laser.

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For the XL Vertical Laser Machine I see it won't cut metal as it is only 80w. However, I noticed that you are working on 100w and 130w versions so will that be sufficient to cut through sheet metal? If so, how much longer until those are available?

Dealing with a 4' x 12' machine, our blackFoot kit will be your best option. Since our machines are only limited to the width but not length wise, you can add however much extra rail and roller chain to accommodate your extended length. Now adding our 4th axis kit (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/axes-4th) will be needed for your 4th axis (unless custom design is required).

These items will be the best requirements to build a 4' x 12' 4th axis machine.
Machine (either parallel/USB BoB): https://www.buildyourcnc.com/blackFoot48v40.aspx
4th axis: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/axes-4th

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Hi, I am very interested in this CNC Router unit [4'x8'], but from South Africa with our exchange rat [1$ =13,4 ZAR presently, make these kits out of reach. The plans part has been discontinued, but in our situation, would you reconsider and supply full plans and instructions at a cost? please let me know.

We are toying with the idea of re-introducing plans for some of our machines. Please give us a call to discuss further.

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Hi, I am very interested in this CNC Router unit [4'x8'], but from South Africa with our exchange rat [1$ =13,4 ZAR presently, make these kits out of reach. The plans part has been discontinued, but in our situation, would you reconsider and supply full plans and instructions at a cost? please let me know.

If the sensors are NC (normally closed) you can wire them in series. If the sensors are NO (Normally Open) you can still wire them to the same input, but the wiring needs to be in parallel (like a ladder). I have more information on the following video:

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[788] Thanks for the oportunity to ask, I am building a cnc and using npn closed sensors could you help me with the conection of these, do i still connect them in series if i use more than two in each axis. Also you mention that a stop switch should be connected grd and input to the controller would that be done after the 24v power supply. Thanks r

There is some variation in the outward appearance of laser power supplies due to sourcing through different vendors. However, the basic wiring requirements are the same in each case. For the unit with integrated laser controller, follow the diagram found here: https://buildyourcnc.com/blackToothLaserCutterAndEngraver.aspx#prettyPhoto/0/. The terminals on the signal side will have a 6 connection terminal block -- these are the ones labeled 5V, IN, G, P (or WP), L (or TTL-L), and H (or TTL-H). The High Power side will have 3 inputs for AC power, one high voltage lead, and one return line. Connect these as shown in the diagram as well: the return line goes on the "front" (beam exit end) terminal of the laser tube, the high voltage lead goes to the "back" terminal of the tube, the FG terminal (or G) receives the earth ground wire of the AC power cable, and the two AC terminals receive the line and neutral wires of the AC power cable (it doesn't matter in this case which wire goes to which terminal).

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I purchased the blackTooth Laser Engraver with integrated Laser Control Unit and have been following your instructions. I noticed that the laser tube power supply is different that what is shown in your instructions. Do you have any better wiring guides that I can follow for the version that I received?

Unfortunately, end mills will dull over time and need to be sharpened or repurchased. We do not currently offer any sharpening service, but we have a large selection of end mills you can find here http://www.buildyourcnc.com/ProductsEndMills.aspx

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Hi, I got two different bits I use alot. The 1/16th and 1/32 end mills. I use them alot for making signs. They seem to be getting dull. They are very expensive so I was wondering can you sharpen these bits? Do you have a service to do this? Thank you

The laser tube is a consumable item in all CO2 lasers, unless the laser tube can be recharged. My laser tubes will most likely work as long as the mouts are the same size. Let me know the mount diameter and the length of space for the tube in the Epilog Laser Cutter and Engraver and I will let you know.

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My Epilog Summit (3.3) only works from Windows Millenium and 98. Notconsistently from WXP, but sporadic raster and vector combined does happen. I can't get it to work right w XP through Harvard Draw, Corel,Image Folio, Stika, DrawMagic or anything else I have. But Millenium isOK except for the advanced mapping to colors function is very difficult.When it does rarely accept a graphic from my XP system from CorelDrawEssentials or 8.0, it will allow complete control for photo etching -speed, power and shade mapping. It is the same driver for both mysystems but the control panel page looks different in the 2 computers. The laser takes 45 seconds to initialize after power on. You can use a USB to Parallel adapter cable for your laptop or modern computer connection. The laser needs the old style printer connection. Test your laser by holding all 3 power/focus/speed buttons until homed. Close the lid. "Online" for lase, any other button for laser off. Should be an audible beep every few seconds while your laser is functioning. This is not a motion test -only laser firing.

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I have a 25 watt Epilog Summit Model 2000/25 laser engraver. I believe my tube is going bad due to limited vector cutting and no raster. Do you think there is a way to retrofit with your products to make it work well. Mirrors are new and mechanical is good. Thanks.

Can you send me a link to the digitizer you are using?

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Hi my names is Minh Truong I would like to said thank you very much for your video I got the system mach3 working fine but one thing I can NOT set and config the digitizer on the board IN4 I am not sure how to setup because in the Mach3 pin 14 for digitizer Please shoe me hoe to set it up for the digitizer.

Did you connect the USB connector to the breakout board?

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YES I CONNECTED THE USB TO THE BREAKOUT BOARD

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I connected the electronics (for 2 x 4 feet) that I ordered from you. But how do I check if I connected all the wiring properly. There is neither any light on motor drivers nor on breakout board. And the motor shaft also does not move before and after the power supply is given.

Is there a test button on the laser tube power supply? You can test the laser output by using the test button. This will help you determine if the laser tube is bad, or if you have wiring issues. Sometimes, wiring to he TL may not work as some controllers are set to active low, so you may need to wire the controller to TH instead.

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Additionally, the mA on the high tension line does not have any relationship to the digital trigger signal from the controller to the power supply.

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I am building my own laser and have watch your trocen videos.....but laser wont fire...double checked wiring and all seems correct to diagram....but the kit i bought was for a 40 watt and i amd using a 60 watt power supply and tube.....What size does the power switching unit need to be ....I think mine is too small for the trigger mA