Same issue here -- TTL output from the AWC708C never seems to be pulled low. Still troubleshooting.

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MY LASER MACHINE VERTICAL DOES NOT ACTIVATE THE LASER TUBE, VERIFY THE POWER SUPPLIES AND THEY ARE WORKING WHICH THE PROBLEM CAN BE

Make sure all your bolts/screws are tighten correctly and if using a lead screw make sure your anti-backlash nut is not offset. Now a default setting will be 10101100 for your driver dip switch settings and in motor tuning (mach3) 1600 steps per, 400.02 velocity, 4 in acceleration. now the acceleration and velocity can be adjusted to move your machine faster, but if set to high they could stall. Make sure you have the correct wiring from your motor to your driver (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM60HT86-2008BF-U%20(inhouse%20PN.60BYGH303-13)%20(1).pdf).

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I have your Nema 24 electronics kit and am having problems with the Z axis dropping over time. I am using a PC 8902 motor. Any ideas on what the problem is? What should be the motor tuning values in Mach3? Thanks

Other items you will need if you are purchasing the electronic combo (motors, drivers, power supply and computer interface) and the hardware and plans kit:

You will need the wood to create the structure of the machine. You will need a router to serve as the cutting instrument. You will need a computer to control the machine and the software that will serve as the control program. You will also need lead screws and rails (aluminum angles). If you intend to have faster travel than 20 ipm, we recommend purchasing the 5 start lead screws so you can achieve up to 300 ipm. https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/mechanical-leadscrews-leadnuts-!5-5-starts-10-tpi

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if i purchase the 4 Axis Electronic Combos and the Combo #1 with hardware, plans and DVD what else do i need to have a complete cnc machine

You will need to build the table unit for your machine. There are instructions on how to do this at the bottom of the product page here, https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-blackFoot-v4
There is no estimate on how much this will cost though, since there are too many variables involved to do this.

- PC with parallel port and USB port
- 20awg stranded wires for the motors - http://www.buildyourcnc.com/electronicscombo.aspx
- 18awg stranded wires for power supply to drivers
- 24awg stranded wires for breakout board to drivers
(location and spacing of components varies from one person to another, so we do not provide cables/wires)
- General purpose extension cord (cut the female end off) to provide power to power supply
- USB cable to power breakout board
- Parallel cable to communicate to breakout board
- Router
- (optional - instead of router) Spindle with power inverter http://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx
- (if purchasing spindle with inverter) General purpose extension cord (240v) (cut the female end off) to provide power to power inverter
- End Mill(s) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/ProductsEndMills.aspx
- CAD, and/or CAD-CAM software (to produce geometry, machine operations, and g-code) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx
- CNC control software (to read g-code and control machine) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx

This answer is applicable to most of our machines with the exception of the greenLean and the blueChick since those machines are equipped with a table structure.

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Can I purchase a computer off Amazon (I have a machine I want to use) and still use the USB interface to drive it with LinuxCNC?

We can't speak to the specific endmill you are using, but can provide some general information about tool deflection. In general, anything that increases rigidity of the cutter will minimize deflection and vice versa. Mathematically, deflection is directly proportional to the cube of the length divided by the fourth power of the diameter.

Practically speaking, with all else equal, cutter diameter will have the largest impact on deflection (bigger being better), followed by stickout (the amount of cutter extending past the collet) which should be minimized, and finally number of flutes (fewer cuts in the metal = more rigidity).

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Anyone having a deflection problem with onsrud compression 1/4 bit

If your computer does not have a parallel port, all you will need is a low cost PCI parallel adapter card (these can be found on amazon for $15-$20). If you plan on using a laptop (not recommended) you can try to find a PCMCIA parallel adapter, but many people have frequent issues with this setup. A more expensive solution would be to purchase a USB smooth stepper board. Unfortunately, we do not supply any of these adapters and cannot attest to their reliability.

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MY COMPUTER DOES NOT HAVE A PARALLEL PORT. HOW DO I INTERFACE WITH THE MACHINE?

You need to set up the homing/limits parameters. You can find this screen by clicking config->Homing/Limits. Make sure to wire the home switches on separate input terminals (i.e. X home switch on IN1, Y home switch on IN2, etc). You can add the limit switches to any of the IN terminals, even on the same IN terminals where the home switches are located.

Check out this video on how to wire multiple switches on a single terminal.

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[575] my axises X,Y,Z will all light green along with my soft limit switch button. When hitting REF ALL HOME no axis move and all my DROs go back to ZERO

Is the signal gnd on the laser power supply connected to a gnd on the breakout board? Do you hear a high pitched sound, like a TV set with an antenna getting interference, but with a high pitch?

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OUR FIRST ATTEMPTS WERE WITH THE PLANET-CNC SOFTWARE, GOING THROUGH USB BOB. NO PROBLEM GETTING X & Y AXIS TO MOVE BUT UNABLE GET ANY ACTIVITY ON Z AXIS. WE THEN INSTALLED MANUAL SWITCH BETWEEN 5V AND TL, JOY. DISCONNECTED BOB FROM TH, MOVED OVER TH TL STILL

Dealing with our USB BoB, it is really similar to the MK1 board, but is also loosely based on their DIY board as well. We have not seen that much of jitters or jerks, that we have noticed here while fabricating and testing the boards. We have not heard that many issues dealing with the board about abnormalities in running, unless we have not been notified in regards to customers who have used them under continuous use.

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Its mentioned that your USB Breakout board is based on Planet-CNC's MK1 board. Planet-CNC on their forums mention that they've discontinued their MK1 because of a low buffer memory which caused jitters and jerks in the machine? Am I likely to face a similar problem with your board?

A couple things to consider, the machine is most likely moving sideways, so the bristles won't be a problem. The lead screw has a very hight mechanical advantage and the bristles don't pose an issue with this. We have not found that the bristles cause any appreciable deflection to the work we do in our shop; however, you can change the brush for a more pliable plastic, or reduce the number of bristles by selectively pruning.

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THE DUST SHOE HAS STIFF BRISTLES, IS THERE PROBLEM WITH MOVING Z-AXIS DOWN SINCE BRISTLES PUSH AXIS SIDEWAYS

Yes, we can help you with leveling your CNC machine even if you didn't purchase it from us.

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[789] I need to level my cnc machine, but I didn't purchase it from you, so: Do you offer tech support with leveling a cnc? Because I don't see this problem listed .And: Do you offer support if my machine was purchased in China or from another vendor?

These machines are inherently dangerous. Before the machine moves, the machine should be clear of any person by a dimension of at the distance of a persons reach plus a few more feet. This is the policies we institute in our shop and what is recommend to all of our customers. Treat these machines as you would treat any major power tool in the shop.

With that said, you can certainly add some protective parts, but still keep folks away even with those installed. I would use the gantry side to do all of the mounting of the protective parts. Consider using sheet metal that you can bend and make a simple installation right on the gantry side.

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THE CNC MACHINE IS UNSAFE WITH EXPOSED SPROCKETS THAT CAN DAMAGE FINGERS AND HAVE CLOTHING CAUGHT IN IT.

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

The eyebolts are used in the squaring of the machine. I would use a standard carpenters square and first run the end mill along the edge of the square to first make it parallel with the long axis. Then run the end mill along the other edge with the short axis and adjust the eye bolts and chain according to the angle that the machine is out of square.

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DO NEED TO SQUARE UP THE MACHINE AND IF SO YOU HAVE INSTRUCTIONS OR VIDEO FOR THIS?

The electronics combo with the sku of 101 on Amazon.com includes a parallel interface.

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I am looking at your 3 axis CNC machine kit(part #101) on Amazon. Is the interface on this kit USB?

Consider the loads on each axis when choosing appropriate stepper motors. If your holding torque is maxed out at roughly 16oz/in (1lb/in), then you could use the NEMA 11 or 14. Also consider the shaft sizes and current ratings when choosing drivers that pair with the motors.

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I am planning to build a scratch CNC machine to do rotary engraving on writing pens. Can you recommend the parts I would need? I'm thinking NEMA 14 (11?) and 3/8" acme rod. Not sure which linear motion to use. I have an old lathe to use for the 4th axis.

The largest CNC machine we make at this time (12/04/2015) is the GreenBull 6'x12' model. This model has 2 options for Z-axis travel.

The short-z option has a total Z travel of 5.75 inches. From that you would subtract the length of the end mill used and the thickness of the spoil board to determine the maximum material thickness. (Example: If the end mill extends 1.25" from the collet and the spoil board is .75", then the material could be up to 5.75 - 1.25 - 0.75 = 3.75 inches in thickness). This is good for most sheet-type materials.

The long-z option, used mainly for large 3D carvings, requires a custom frame and allows for up to 36" of travel.

The tolerance of our machines, like any machine, depends on several variables. The major variables include the manufacturing tolerance, the type of machine control used, the precision of assembly, the thoroughness of maintenance, and the initial and ongoing calibration of the machine. Because we sell kits only most of these variables are outside our control. Therefore, we are hesitant to guarantee a certain level of tolerance for an end user. However, in our experience, tolerances of .001" are readily achievable with our machines.

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What tolerance can I expect from your largest cnc machine and the laser cutter? Also, what depth can I get on the z axis?

PC with parallel port and USB port
20awg stranded wires for the motors - http://www.buildyourcnc.com/electronicscombo.aspx
18awg stranded wires for power supply to drivers
24awg stranded wires for breakout board to drivers
(location and spacing of components varies from one person to another, so we do not provide cables/wires)
- General purpose extension cord (cut the female end off) to provide power to power supply
- USB cable to power breakout board
- Parallel cable to communicate to breakout board
- Router
- (optional - instead of router) Spindle with power inverter http://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx
- (if purchasing spindle with inverter) General purpose extension cord (240v) (cut the female end off) to provide power to power inverter
- End Mill(s) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/ProductsEndMills.aspx
- CAD, and/or CAD-CAM software (to produce geometry, machine operations, and g-code) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx
- CNC control software (to read g-code and control machine) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx
- If the machine does not have the table included, then a table will need to be built. The rails, chain and chain mounts are included that are used on this table.

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WHAT NOT INCLUDED WITH THE MACHINE?

The settings that will have to be change will be your steps per inch in motor tuning (mach 3), or settings/axes(planetCNC). But we do not have the actual numbers/specs that will fit your 10 TPI 5 start lead screw, here is a tutorial video which explains how to get the exact numbers you need! (

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I just changed my X and Y to the ACME 1/2" 5 start lead screw. What are the motor tuning numbers. I have the book built machine.