The lasing area for the blackTooth v2 is 20" x 24" or 580 x 600 mm.

The dimensions for the machine in general will be on the main product page when the videos are completed.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Hi, question about blacktoothv2 laser engraver, what is the cutting area of the laser machine as I don't have clue how big it is, and are you’ll just use it like that ore it’ll have a moving Z axis, waiting for video 5, interested how it will progress. It’ll be very useful if you’d mention some dimensions during the installation. Thanks and keep up good work

That is a very loaded question that could be replied in so many ways. I will need a more specific question to help you. For instance, I have my machine moving in different directions, but I don't know how to make the machine move according to g-code instructions. Another question could be, I connected all of my electronics and the motors are not moving and I did all of the steps on the electronics video to troubleshoot the problem.

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I have a cnc router that was built from the book "Build your own cnc machine" by james kelley and patrick hood daniel.all the parts were purchased from your company.I have no clue how to work the machine and I need to purchase a spindle (or router) bits , softwear ect , I did mention I don't know how to use the machine !!! Thanks for your help Richard

The 5x10 greenBull base kit comes with the structure, hardware, and electronics for motion control. In order to have a fully functional CNC you will need a table base for your machine, a spindle or router to handle your cutting applications, end mills (bits) for cutting, CAD, CAM and CNC software, and a computer. There are also accessories you can add such as limit switches, emergency stops, and cable carrier for cable management. If you are looking for more information or a formal quote please contact sales@buildyoucnc.com

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I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

Not a problem. The ALM is rather self-explanatory as this is a closed-loop stepper motor and driver that you are using. The ALM (alarm) is a signal that is used to tell the driver/controller that the motor is not in the same condition that the driver expects. In a closed-loop system, the motor has an encoder that tells the driver exactly how many steps that it turned, and if this value does not coincide with the driver's outputted number of steps, and within a specified amount of time, the alarm will trigger so the system can stop and the workpiece can be salvaged.

The MF is simply a signal that tells the driver that there is impending direction and step pulses coming. If the MF signal is high, then that is similar to an enable signal.

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Hello I recently read your site and have a question. I have a driver model DM2722A but I can't connect it to my usb controller due to the fact that the driver is not marked enable, but instead it is marked: mf-, mf +, alm-, alm +. I will be very grateful if you explain to me the meaning of the latter and tell me what should be related to "enable" Thanks in advance!

The drivers have quite a bit of protection, so you probably won't ruin anything. You motors are jumping and that is just the motors engaging from getting power from the power supply.

There could be many reasons your motors don't turn. Consider these troubleshooting tips:

- If you are using our parallel breakout board, make sure that the step pins are set for active low (config -> Ports and Pins -> Motor Outputs -> the steps pins should be enabled and set active low)

- The parallel breakout board is powered (connect the USB to the computer using a USB cable)

- In Mach3, make sure you have jog enabled (a little green button at thelower middle of the page in the program run screen).

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If I wired my stepper motors incorrectly what parts of the electronics will be ruined? When I turn on the power, my motors jump like they are supposed to but for some reason, the G-code doesn't seem to be moving from Mach 3 to the motors. Any help would be appreciated. Do I need to order new electronics or just part of the system? Thanks

If you have the laser firing using the Z direction, then you want to make sure that the thickness and clearance plane is extremely small. The time it takes for the software to think that the z axis has lowered to the depth set in the design is causing the laser to stay on in a single position for too long. Make sure that the depth is extremely small, like .0001" or the smallest amount allowed by the Vectric software. Also, make sure the clearance plane (the height that the z axis would raise to clear any protrusions like clamps and the such) is extremely low.

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I have been using a Blacktooth for some time, with Vectric2d and Mach3. I have always found that the laser burns a hole before moving off. I have always set material thickness at actual value. Should it be set very low? Also, of the many post processors supplied with 2d, which is best for Blacktooth?

It is most common for the laser tube to go out, after about 1000 hours of work time!
It is strange that the new laser tube will not fire!
We would recommend to check the tungsten leads, if they are making good contact!

Also here is a link to a instructables page where they have tested a laser power supply!
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-test-and-set-a-Chinese-China-made-CO2-Laser/?ALLSTEPS

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Hello - I have had some years of good use from my Blacktooth CN Laser, but had to reduce the speed on jobs over the last year to get satisfactory cutting. Recently, on a long job, the laser beam weakened and disappeared entirely over about 30 seconds (guess). I fixed a new tube, but this won't fire either. How can I safely test the output lead to see if it's dead or partially so?

We do offer all of the parts; but it is best to purchase them a la carte. You will probably not want the hardware since this would not conform to a design in metal.

All of the mechanical parts are available here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/CNCMachineMechanicalParts.aspx

All of the electronics you would need is available here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/electronicscombo.aspx

All of the laser components are available here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/LaserComponents.aspx

And the spindles and VFDs are available here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx

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Hello, I'm interested in GreenBull 5'x10' CNC machine kit with 40W laser head. Is it possible to receive an offer for this size cnc machine kit with all the mechanics, electronics and laser parts, but without all the wooden parts? We would like to build this kind of laser cutter machine with metal frame and parts. And is it possible also to get 3D drawing for machine? Waiting for your answer.

Decreasing the speed of acceleration in the cutter? Meaning of your router/spindle?, To modify the speed of a router will be going to the router itself and modifying the speed, but if a spindle is being used modifying it will be done either manually in the VFD (VFD Setup:
Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequency - Hz)
Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution))<- make sure these are your settings in the VFD. If the spindle is wired to the breakout board and is working through Mach 3 then the modification will be done in your CamBam/Feed rate settings.

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How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

Cutting metal with lasers even at 100W and 130W is difficult. The main problem is molten is a byproduct of lasing, which can severely damage the laser.

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For the XL Vertical Laser Machine I see it won't cut metal as it is only 80w. However, I noticed that you are working on 100w and 130w versions so will that be sufficient to cut through sheet metal? If so, how much longer until those are available?

Considering enlarging the machine, might have its down sides do to the structural integrity of the scratch build machine. Primarily by making the width longer it will start to sag in the center, which will lead to having to redesign the gantry to be more structurally rigid to support the added length. Which then will increase the weight and height of your gantry to support the add size, which will always end up to creating a larger CNC.

We usually do not recommend modifying the scratch build CNC, due to the very limited capabilities, and the structural design of the scratch build. We also do not recommend using longer than 48" ACME screw/leadscrew due to the increasing chance of warping and bending in the ACME screws/leadscrew in the given length.
We do recommend modifying the CNC machines we sell to accommodate the added requests that some of our customers desire, but you will be limited to the width of the gantry with our machines.

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I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

Not sure what you mean by the statement "I don't know when you answer". Please explain. I answer all of the incoming emails until my inbox is completely empty and all phone calls to the company go straight to my cell phone and I answer all of the calls, and if I don't answer, I call back immediately.


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I just searched my email and found no emails with your email address associated with the email listed with this question. I cannot answer questions if no correspondence was provided by you.

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Please send an email, I am giving up on buying a machine from you because I don't know when you answer. I was asking about getting just the working parts and rails sent to Fiji. You sent an answer and some questions, but I have no way of knowing if you responded again.

There is a multitude of methods to create the table and frame for the greenBull long-z CNC machine, as some of the illustrations are shown on our gB webpage.

The image with the hollow mid section, is a custom table that will take advantage of the entire long-z axis assembly. So the frame can be built in that manner, however the CNC table should have its 3/4" table top. So you can cut standard sheets of wood, aluminum, plastics, etc.

So that specific illustration is not needed, however if you plan on cutting at that depth then it will defiantly benefit you to have that frame as shown in the illustration!

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Can you please clarify what a long Z axis table should look like? I've built a frame that matches the dimensions on the GreenBull page but under long Z it says a custom frame is required made out of steel, which I did. But do I need to have the frame open like shown in the picture or is that just showing what the table looks like under the 3/4 material?

I would first check the mechanical parts to ensure smooth motion. Is your machine bogging down during cutting or jogging/rapids?

You can increase the voltage to gain a higher speed for rapids/jogging, but make sure the driver can handle this voltage. There should be a max voltage on the driver label.

If the bogging down is happening during cutting, either reduce the cutting depth or switch out the drive and motor for the axis that is giving the problem.

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[129] I have a Blackfoot and have a question about the power supply. I currently have a 36V power supply and my machine bogs down, would a 70V or something like that help, or will that blow up my machine? thank you!

Make sure to check your supply lines. Air flow is especially important.

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hi, I atacched a laser system to my modified book machine. it worked fine for a few trials but for some reason has lost power and is not cutting through any more, it does engrave thou. what can I check for? I´ve tried everything I can think of.

The laser tube is a consumable item in all CO2 lasers, unless the laser tube can be recharged. My laser tubes will most likely work as long as the mouts are the same size. Let me know the mount diameter and the length of space for the tube in the Epilog Laser Cutter and Engraver and I will let you know.

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My Epilog Summit (3.3) only works from Windows Millenium and 98. Notconsistently from WXP, but sporadic raster and vector combined does happen. I can't get it to work right w XP through Harvard Draw, Corel,Image Folio, Stika, DrawMagic or anything else I have. But Millenium isOK except for the advanced mapping to colors function is very difficult.When it does rarely accept a graphic from my XP system from CorelDrawEssentials or 8.0, it will allow complete control for photo etching -speed, power and shade mapping. It is the same driver for both mysystems but the control panel page looks different in the 2 computers. The laser takes 45 seconds to initialize after power on. You can use a USB to Parallel adapter cable for your laptop or modern computer connection. The laser needs the old style printer connection. Test your laser by holding all 3 power/focus/speed buttons until homed. Close the lid. "Online" for lase, any other button for laser off. Should be an audible beep every few seconds while your laser is functioning. This is not a motion test -only laser firing.

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I have a 25 watt Epilog Summit Model 2000/25 laser engraver. I believe my tube is going bad due to limited vector cutting and no raster. Do you think there is a way to retrofit with your products to make it work well. Mirrors are new and mechanical is good. Thanks.

With our blackTooth kit, if you were to go with our lowest cost machine being $1700. With the parallel breakout board the best new beginner programs you can use, would be Mach 3 and ArtCAM, since it is a good program for beginning users.

Now if you feel a little comfortable with CAD/CAM, I would recommend CAMBAM and is a good overall software since it has a large design screen which allows you to view your design more clearly.

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I want to avoid the Parallel Port option and go with USB. In that case, is Planet-CNC Software, and ArtCAM the best combination? Does Planet-CNC do the same thing as Mach 3 only with different physical ports?

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I'm interested in buying your blacktooth laser engraver for cutting out inlays on woodworking projects. I am new to laser engraving/cutting, and CAD. What is the simplest beginning software setup available to allow me to cut 2D shapes and letters for inlay work?

It's generally acceptable to use one pin for all of your limit switches wired Normally Closed (NC), and another separate pin for a Z probe that is Normally Open (NO). LinuxCNC is quite flexible and allows for mixed configurations of NC and NO switches.

Just ensure you configure LinuxCNC correctly to recognize each pin's logic (Active low or active high). And perhaps run a few tests before running the machine.

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It's generally acceptable to use one pin for all of your limit switches wired Normally Closed (NC), and another separate pin for a Z probe that is Normally Open (NO). LinuxCNC is quite flexible and allows for mixed configurations of NC and NO switches.

Just ensure you configure LinuxCNC correctly to recognize each pin's logic (Active low or active high). And perhaps run a few tests before running the machine.

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[59] is it ok to use one pin for all of the limit switches wired NC and another pin for a z probe that is NO, or do all input pins need to be the same (NC or NO)? I would like to use LinuxCNC but will use Mach3 if necessary. a thanks!

The blackFoot uses the same electronics and motors as the blackToe (2'x4') machine. The only parts that change are the gantry horizontal structural parts which may be relatively easy for you to change. We can send you those parts if you are interested in a smaller unit.

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I have a Blackfoot that was purchased in 2017, after the purchase we moved and I haven’t been able to find room for it... would you be interested in buying it back or trading for something smaller. The Blackfoot and computer have never run but I did purchase it assembled. Thanks in advance, scott