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Question #: 2279

Question: Your book built stepper motors have different wiring colors than what you have in your instructions about pairing the wires. Do you have an updated version?

Current Solution

Our book is a bit outdated with our current stepper motors we have for sale, however the motors recommended for our scratch build kit (same as in book) is our 425-oz motors with 8 wires (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM60HT86-2008BF-U%20(inhouse%20PN.60BYGH303-13)%20(1).pdf) now you will join the 8 cables in pairs that will convert it to 4 wires. Wiring: Red and Blue to A+, Yellow and Black to A-, White and Brown to B+ and Orange and Green to B-.

Respond:

Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • HOW DO I WIRE THE 4TH AXIS THAT YOU SELL. I HAVE MACH3 SOFTWARE. NO INSTRUCTIONS ON YOUR SITE

    The motor that is attached to the 4th axis is wired as follows:

    The motor should have red, green yellow and blue wires coming form the motor. The red and green are paired as one coil and the yellow and blue is paired as the other coil. You can wire the motor to a 3.0 amp driver with red to A+, green to A-, Yellow to B+ and Blue to B-

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    HOW DO I WIRE THE 4TH AXIS THAT YOU SELL. I HAVE MACH3 SOFTWARE. NO INSTRUCTIONS ON YOUR SITE

  • DO NEED TO SQUARE UP THE MACHINE AND IF SO YOU HAVE INSTRUCTIONS OR VIDEO FOR THIS?

    The eyebolts are used in the squaring of the machine. I would use a standard carpenters square and first run the end mill along the edge of the square to first make it parallel with the long axis. Then run the end mill along the other edge with the short axis and adjust the eye bolts and chain according to the angle that the machine is out of square.

    Additional Information:

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    DO NEED TO SQUARE UP THE MACHINE AND IF SO YOU HAVE INSTRUCTIONS OR VIDEO FOR THIS?

  • WHERE ARE THE WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR BLACKTOOTH LASER CUTTER IN INSTRUCTIONS?

    You can find the wiring diagrams for the blackTooth on step 105 and 106 on the list of instructions on the blackTooth page. Step 105 pertains to the parallel breakout board and step 106 pertains to the USB interface board.

    Additional Information:
    wire size

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    WHERE ARE THE WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR BLACKTOOTH LASER CUTTER IN INSTRUCTIONS?

  • I WIRED MY VFD (2.2KW VERSION) AND TRIED TEST RUNNING THE SPINDLE. CONFIGURED TO YOUR SPECS ON THIS WEBSITE, ONLY ISSUE IS WE GOT AN ERROR CODE. ERR 02, DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS? OR HAVE A LIST OF CODES? THANK

    Can you provide the model number of your VFD?

    Yes, I have the "YL600 - 2S - 2K20"

    It just came with a small booklet that is all in Chinese...

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I WIRED MY VFD (2.2KW VERSION) AND TRIED TEST RUNNING THE SPINDLE. CONFIGURED TO YOUR SPECS ON THIS WEBSITE, ONLY ISSUE IS WE GOT AN ERROR CODE. ERR 02, DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS? OR HAVE A LIST OF CODES? THANK

  • I HAVE NEMA 34 MOTORS BUT NEED THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS DO YOU A KIT WITHOUT INCLUDED?

    If you are looking for the drivers to pair with NEMA 34 stepper motors, you can find the 6.0 amp drivers here:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-stepper-driver-6!0a

    The other electronics to send the signals to the 6.0 amp drivers (the control board that operates with the control software) is subject to personal preference, but here they are listed:

    Our breakout board (works with Mach3 and LinuxCNC and requires a parallel port on your computer):
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay

    The PoKeys57CNC (works with Mach3 and Mach4):
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

    Generic USB breakout board (works with Mach3):
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

    Additional Information:
    Do I need a driver for every motor or can I use one driver for all four motors

    Additional Information:
    Each motor needs its own driver.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I HAVE NEMA 34 MOTORS BUT NEED THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS DO YOU A KIT WITHOUT INCLUDED?

  • I'VE BUFFERED A PWM SIGNAL TO 0-10V ANALOG AND I WOULD LIKE USE THAT RUN YOUR 110V 2.2KW SPINDLE VFD. COULD YOU PLEASE DETAIL THE CORRECT WIRING VFD SETTINGS GET WORKING?

    This will depend on the VFD you have to identify the correct terminal. The terminal on the VFD will be labeled AI1 typically (Analog Input #1). You will also need to make sure to complete the PWM circuit using the GND terminal on the VFD.

    Additional Information:
    I have wired my 0-10V signal to the AI1 and GND terminals as suggested. I have also set the PD-01 and PD-02 settings to 1. Still nothing. Is there something else that I am missing?

    Additional Information:
    Thanks for the information. Can you let me know the model of the VFD that you have?

    Additional Information:
    VFD Model # YL600-2S-2K20

    Additional Information:
    Thanks. I will check our resources and documentation to see if there is another programming setting that needs to be changed.

    Additional Information:
    Does your VFD have a VI terminal?

    Additional Information:
    No, it does not. The terminals for this VFD are as follows (seperated by dashes "-").

    10V-AI1-AO2-PLC-DI5-DI3-DI1-COM
    AI2-GND-AO1-DI6-DI4-DI2-FM-24V

    Additional Information:
    Do you have a PD070 parameter?

    PD070 is the main Analog Input parameter.

    The options for that parameter is:
    0: 0-10V
    1: 0-5V
    2: 0-20mA
    3: 4-20mA
    4: 0-10V (4-20mA Stacked)
    5: XIA
    6: (VI+XIA)/2
    7: (3VA+XIA)/4
    8: (XIA_XIB)/2
    9: Max (XIA, XIB)
    10: Min (XIA, XIB)


    Additional Information:
    There is a PD-00 thru PD-09. PD-07 is currently set to 0.

    Additional Information:
    It appears that the manual I’m using “Titled YL600” is not the same as your unit. I will check our manuals and find the one that has only PD-00 to PD-09.

    Additional Information:
    For that VFD, the parameters are P0. The 0 may look like a D on the display.

    The parameters that need to be changed for the AI1 to work (Brackets [] around the correct selection):

    P0-01: First Motor Control Mode
    - 0: Sensorless Vector Control
    - 1: Flux Vector Control (FVC)
    - [2]: V/F Control

    P0-02: Options of Command Source
    - 0: Operation Panel Command Channel (LED will be off)
    - [1]: Terminal Command Channel (LED will be on)
    - 2: Communication Command Channel (LED will flicker)

    P0-03: Options of Principle Frequency Source X
    - 0: Digital Setting (Preset Frequency P0-08, UP/DOWN modifiable, no power-down memory)
    - 1: Digital Setting (Preset Frequency P0-08, UP/DOWN modifiable, with power-down memory)
    - [2]: AI1
    - 3: AI2
    - 4: AI3
    - 5: Pulse Setting (DI5)
    - 6: Multi Speed Instruction
    - 7: Simple PLC
    - 8: PID (Proportional Integral Derivative Control)
    - 9: Communication Given

    P0-11: Upper Limit Frequency Source
    - 0: P0-12 (Make sure the P0-12 parameter has the correct max frequency if used)
    - [1]: AI1
    - 2: AI2
    - 3: AI3
    - 4: Pulse Setting
    - 5: Communication Given

    P0-27: Command Source Bundle with Frequency Sources
    Single Digit: Options of Operation Panel Command Bundle with Frequency Sources
    - 0: No Bundling
    - 1: Digital Setting Frequency
    - [2]: AI1
    - 3: AI2
    - 4: AI3
    - 5: Pulse Setting (DI5)
    - 6: Multi Speed Instruction
    - 7: Simple PLC
    - 8: PID
    - 9: Communication Given
    Double Digit: Options of Terminal Command Bundle with Frequency Sources
    Hundred Place: Options of Communication Command Bundle with Frequency Sources
    Kilobit: Options of Automatic Operation Bundle with Frequency Sources

    P2-09: Upper Limit Source of Lower Torque Under Speed Control Mode
    - 0: Function Code P2-10 Setting
    - [1]: AI1
    - 2: AI2
    - 3: AI3
    - 4: Pulse Setting
    - 5: Communication Given
    - 6: MIN (Al1, Al2)
    - 7: MAX (Al1, Al2)
    - Maximum range for options 1-7, accords with P2-10

    If you elect to use a different AI#, then configure the parameters (P0-03, P0-11, P0-27 and P2-09) accordingly.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I'VE BUFFERED A PWM SIGNAL TO 0-10V ANALOG AND I WOULD LIKE USE THAT RUN YOUR 110V 2.2KW SPINDLE VFD. COULD YOU PLEASE DETAIL THE CORRECT WIRING VFD SETTINGS GET WORKING?

  • About your HIWIN rails. What Carriage block does the 78" rails come with, 2 flange or 2 with no flange?

    The HIWIN rails come with the same flange blocks that are sold individually.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    About your HIWIN rails. What Carriage block does the 78" rails come with, 2 flange or 2 with no flange?

  • ON THE BOB...EVERYTHING TESTS OK BOB EXCEPT X-DIRECTION OUT. IT'S VOLTAGE IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT THAN Y AND Z (5.00 INSTEAD OF 5.03. TESTED X DIRECTION ALL THREE DRIVERS. IN EACH CASE THERE GOING INTO DRIVER BUT NOT OUT IT.

    The electronics can be tricky sometimes, especially if more than one change is made for a test. You can move the x-dir wire to another pin and set it in the software configuration. If it works, then only that pin is bad.

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    ON THE BOB...EVERYTHING TESTS OK BOB EXCEPT X-DIRECTION OUT. IT'S VOLTAGE IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT THAN Y AND Z (5.00 INSTEAD OF 5.03. TESTED X DIRECTION ALL THREE DRIVERS. IN EACH CASE THERE GOING INTO DRIVER BUT NOT OUT IT.

  • I HAVE YOUR MACH3 USB BOB, DO YOU GUYS SELL A TORCH CONTROL RELAY CAN WIRE UP TO TURN MY PLASMA ON AND OFF HOW WOULD WIFE THAT TOO THIS BOB?

    We do have a relay board that words like a standard relay.

    Here is the URL of the relay board that we offer:

    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-breakout-Relays-relay-board-250V-12A-5V

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I HAVE YOUR MACH3 USB BOB, DO YOU GUYS SELL A TORCH CONTROL RELAY CAN WIRE UP TO TURN MY PLASMA ON AND OFF HOW WOULD WIFE THAT TOO THIS BOB?

  • I HAVE A 2000 WK 11–3 Z LIMIT SWITCHES GOING TO C10R10 BREAKOUT BOARD . CAN ALSO USE THEM AS MY HOME POSITION WELL. NEED THE WIRING CONFIGURATION

    No, you should not have received two parallel breakout boards in your CNC kit. You can return the extra item using standard shipping with COD. Our apologies for the confusion and the inconvenience.

    I will answer the other question as another FAQ. Please check the Customer Service page to see the answer to that question.

    If you have difficulty finding the answer, here is a link:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/FAQ/13636

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I HAVE A 2000 WK 11–3 Z LIMIT SWITCHES GOING TO C10R10 BREAKOUT BOARD . CAN ALSO USE THEM AS MY HOME POSITION WELL. NEED THE WIRING CONFIGURATION

  • I BOUGHT YOUR BOOK AND WAS HOPEING IT HAD PLANS OR DIMENTIONS ON HOW TO BUILD A CNC HOLD 4X8 SHEET OF PLY. WILL THE IN SCALE UP?

    BYCNC Response:
    The book build was intended to be 20 inches x 40 inches. Larger machines were designed after the book build was introduced so customers would have the option to go bigger than what the book offered. Check out our larger machines on the website as the machines sizes range from 1 foot x 3 feet all the way up to 6 feet x 12+ feet.

    User Response:
    I'm not wanting to spend $3,000+ on a machine, I want to build one that will do a 4x8 sheet of wood. Will the plans in the book scale up?

    BYCNC Response:
    It is possible to scale the book build up, but the rigidity of the gantry would be questionable at that span, even if the height of the gantry structure were to be increased. The gantry design would need to be modified to become a box shape rather than a flat configuration. The kits on the site were design for those wanting a larger machine.

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    I BOUGHT YOUR BOOK AND WAS HOPEING IT HAD PLANS OR DIMENTIONS ON HOW TO BUILD A CNC HOLD 4X8 SHEET OF PLY. WILL THE IN SCALE UP?

  • I HAVE INTEREST IN SOME KIT AROUND 14' X 3.5' CAN YOU SUPPLY? ALREADY PRICE? AND WHAT MORE NEED?, MY IS MODELING KAYAKS CNC

    Our CNC machines can be lengthened to work with our customers specific projects.

    For a 3.5' x 14' cutting surface, I would recommend our greenBull 4X! (4'x8'). You will only need to add the remaining length of rail(4) and chain(2) to accommodate the additional 6Ft, so this machine will have a cutting surface of 4' x 14'.

    The additional lengths for the x-axis travel will be a total of 28Ft, and 14Ft of chain. We recommend selecting all the items you wish to purchase and see the actual total in your cart.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I HAVE INTEREST IN SOME KIT AROUND 14' X 3.5' CAN YOU SUPPLY? ALREADY PRICE? AND WHAT MORE NEED?, MY IS MODELING KAYAKS CNC

  • I HAVE FOLLOWED ALL THE "CNC ELECTRONICS 1 - 9" VIDEOS AND I'M USING ALMOST EXACT SAME COMPONENTS (MOTORS RUN SOUND GOOD) BUT MOTORS ARE RUNING VERY HOT IN JUST 15MIN WITH NO LOAD DONE SOMETHING WRONG OR DO STEPPERS HOT?

    If your motors are hot to the touch, this is normal. Current is being drawn by the motor coils as the motor moves and as the motor stays at a position. If the motor is not using the current in the coils to move (holding it's position), the energy will be translated as heat (rather than motion, sound or light). Even while moving, some of the energy will be lost as heat. Remember that energy cannot be created nor destroyed.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I HAVE FOLLOWED ALL THE "CNC ELECTRONICS 1 - 9" VIDEOS AND I'M USING ALMOST EXACT SAME COMPONENTS (MOTORS RUN SOUND GOOD) BUT MOTORS ARE RUNING VERY HOT IN JUST 15MIN WITH NO LOAD DONE SOMETHING WRONG OR DO STEPPERS HOT?

  • BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ABOUT COOLING THE LASER OFF - IS YOUR SETUP LIKE MOST OTHERS NEED BUCKET OF DISTILLED WATER TO PUMP THROUGH MACHINE?

    Cooling is not as tricky as you might think. There is 3 ways to approach this, only 2 really matter for a low scale 40w setup. First one is the cheapest and easiest. The higher the temp of water the worse your performance will be, from what I understand anything in the 30C range is about the most tolerable it gets. Lower is better. But not frozen...from what I've been told a very experienced cutter, he found 8C was the highest power he achieved.

    1. Use a 5 Gallon resovoir system which gives you a fairly large space of water to heat up before you need to tend to it. Add about a cup of anti-freeze to the mix of DISTILLED water. You don't want ANY minerals in the water that might build up in your system. The anti-freeze works to keep algae and other ickies from growing in your water.

    2. Use a smaller resovoir system (or even closed loop) and install 1 or more radiators found in CPU cooling systems with 120mm fans attached. This will continously cool your water system to ambient room temperatures, but with a tiny resovoir it will be difficult to add things like ice-packs to drop the temps if the ambient is quite hot.

    3. Using an industrial coolant system. Overkill and unless your cutting A LOT, this is a very expensive option to take. You can also explore the idea of Peltier cooling but it is extremely expensive electricity/BTU wise compared to an industrial cooler.

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    BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ABOUT COOLING THE LASER OFF - IS YOUR SETUP LIKE MOST OTHERS NEED BUCKET OF DISTILLED WATER TO PUMP THROUGH MACHINE?

  • I HAVE NOT SEEN ANY REFERENCES TO ENCODER FEED-BACK CAPABILITY IN OF THE HARDWARE YOU SELL. THIS A SUPPORTED FEATURE WITH HARDWARE/SOFTWARE SELL?

    I haven't delved into using encoders with stepping motors too much. From my research, you need to have a controller that can provide the closed loop control, rather than software handling that process. I have also found from my research that using encoders on stepping motors is generally used to stop the machine in the case that the motor failed to achieve the commanded position for some reason and gives the user the chance to correct and continue with the job.

    If you want proper closed loop control, it may be best to go with servos and servo controller that provide the closed loop control within the real of those two components.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I HAVE NOT SEEN ANY REFERENCES TO ENCODER FEED-BACK CAPABILITY IN OF THE HARDWARE YOU SELL. THIS A SUPPORTED FEATURE WITH HARDWARE/SOFTWARE SELL?

  • I have a BlackFoot with a 3.25hp Porter Cable router. What is a safe starting IPM to optimize feed rate? How fast do you guys run full depth passes through MDO or MDF?

    It is not recommended that standard routers do full depth passes. This is better done with a spindle. For best results with routers, we recommend a depth that equals the cutting diameter of the end mill. The IPM will relate to the chip load of the end mill (look up the formula online and add it here). The IPM will also depend on the end mill diameter, the larger the diameter, the faster the feedrate. A 1/2" end mill can cut about 300-500 ipm where a 1/4" end mill will be able to cut at 80-120 IPM, at a depth equaling the cutter diameter using a router. With a spindle, the same feedrates can be applied, but with more depth per pass. For instance, an MDF full depth cut at 3/4" can be cut at the 100 IPM using a 1/4" cutter.
    Here is a basic setup we have for our blackFoot (default setting):
    X-Axis
    SPI: 914.29
    Acc: 400.02
    Vel: 5
    Y-Axis
    SPI: 1422.22
    Acc: 400.02
    Vel: 5
    Z-Axis
    SPI: 1600
    Acc: 400.02
    Vel: 79.98

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I have a BlackFoot with a 3.25hp Porter Cable router. What is a safe starting IPM to optimize feed rate? How fast do you guys run full depth passes through MDO or MDF?

  • CAN YOU GIVE ME SOME HELP OR POINT IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION TO INCORPORATE MK 7 EXTRUDER WITH BOOK PLANS FOR 3D PRINTER?

    Mounting the extruder to the whiteAnt can be done a couple of ways. One is to take the 4 mounting holes located at the lower portion of the z-axis rail support and use long screws protruding out. Take a thinner material and drill the four holes matching the locations of the 4 screws and screw on nuts to hold it in place. The other option would be to use the metal bracket and fasten to the edge of the rail support.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    CAN YOU GIVE ME SOME HELP OR POINT IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION TO INCORPORATE MK 7 EXTRUDER WITH BOOK PLANS FOR 3D PRINTER?

  • ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WORKS. I HAVE ALL STRUCTURE AND MECHICAL PARTS OF THE BLACKTOOTH CUTTER DONE. HOWEVER WHEN WIRE UP STEPPER MOTOR TO DRIVER. THAT MACH 3 USB CONTROLLER BOARD, TRY JOG MOTOR, WORKS! PREVIOSULY HAD PLANET CNC BREAKOUT HOWRVER, ONLY MOVED MOTORS IN ONE DIRECTION COULDNT CHANGE IT. ANY HELP WOULD BE APRECIATED
  • IF I PURCHASE A GREENBULL 6X LONG Z CNC MACHINE KIT AND MACH3, WHAT ELSE WOULD BE REQUIRED TO ASSEMBLE THE WORKING MACHINE? HAVE CAD SOFTWARE.

    You will need to build the table unit for your machine. There are instructions on how to do this at the bottom of the product page here, https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-blackFoot-v4
    There is no estimate on how much this will cost though, since there are too many variables involved to do this.

    - PC with parallel port and USB port
    - 20awg stranded wires for the motors - http://www.buildyourcnc.com/electronicscombo.aspx
    - 18awg stranded wires for power supply to drivers
    - 24awg stranded wires for breakout board to drivers
    (location and spacing of components varies from one person to another, so we do not provide cables/wires)
    - General purpose extension cord (cut the female end off) to provide power to power supply
    - USB cable to power breakout board
    - Parallel cable to communicate to breakout board
    - Router
    - (optional - instead of router) Spindle with power inverter http://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx
    - (if purchasing spindle with inverter) General purpose extension cord (240v) (cut the female end off) to provide power to power inverter
    - End Mill(s) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/ProductsEndMills.aspx
    - CAD, and/or CAD-CAM software (to produce geometry, machine operations, and g-code) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx
    - CNC control software (to read g-code and control machine) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx

    This answer is applicable to most of our machines with the exception of the greenLean and the blueChick since those machines are equipped with a table structure.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    IF I PURCHASE A GREENBULL 6X LONG Z CNC MACHINE KIT AND MACH3, WHAT ELSE WOULD BE REQUIRED TO ASSEMBLE THE WORKING MACHINE? HAVE CAD SOFTWARE.

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