Sure, our blueChick and blackToe CNC Routers are considered relatively small machines at 1'x3' and 2'x4' respectively. They both use NEMA 23/24 motors. We recommend connecting the machines to either Mach3 or LinuxCNC and come with the necessary interface for either control software. You will need a computer for the control software and if you desire LinuxCNC, you will need a parallel port. Mach3 will accept either parallel port, or USB interface.

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I recently purchased the linksprite cnc engraving router and was wondering if your 3 axis small kit would be ok? the engraver came with nema 17 motors and a arduino board but but not liking the grbl control. could you point me in the right direction .Thanks.

Yes, the blueChick kits are available. You can get the shipping rates automatically in the shopping cart. There will be a calculate shipping button on the enter shipping information section of the shopping cart.

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CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME THE AVAILABILITY OF 12X36 BLUE CHICK 4.2, AND COST FOR SHIPPING TO ZIP 72802 IN RUSSELLVILLE, ARKANSAS?

BYCNC Response:
The book build was intended to be 20 inches x 40 inches. Larger machines were designed after the book build was introduced so customers would have the option to go bigger than what the book offered. Check out our larger machines on the website as the machines sizes range from 1 foot x 3 feet all the way up to 6 feet x 12+ feet.

User Response:
I'm not wanting to spend $3,000+ on a machine, I want to build one that will do a 4x8 sheet of wood. Will the plans in the book scale up?

BYCNC Response:
It is possible to scale the book build up, but the rigidity of the gantry would be questionable at that span, even if the height of the gantry structure were to be increased. The gantry design would need to be modified to become a box shape rather than a flat configuration. The kits on the site were design for those wanting a larger machine.

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I BOUGHT YOUR BOOK AND WAS HOPEING IT HAD PLANS OR DIMENTIONS ON HOW TO BUILD A CNC HOLD 4X8 SHEET OF PLY. WILL THE IN SCALE UP?

If you are having issues with inconsistent extrustion, then that tells me that it may be the result of heat buildup to the hub and motor that is pushing the filament. Our new extruder does use a spring at the screw to compress the wheel against the hub on the motor.

Consider a cooling method to cool down that area of the extruder.

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I've had my 3d printer working for a few weeks now with mixed results. My main problem is inconsistent extrusion. After about a half hour of printing, I find that extrusion slows down or stops. Tweaking the set screw helps sometimes. Do you have any tips for setting the tension or are you looking into any spring-loaded tensioners? I have the MK7 extruder (the one prior to what you're selling now).

To implement a electronics combo to run you Proxxon MF70, you will need to find the correct drive components (ACME screw, linear rail, etc) and look into any specific modifications needed to your rig.
I would recommend the USB 3 Axis Large Motors Electronics w/ USB Interface Board.
Since the machine is metal, our larger motors would be highly recommended.

We have not done this conversion, through research is recommended.

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Hi I have a Proxxon MF70, I want to add 3axis stepper with controller and software by USB. Can you suggest a kit for me? Thanks.

Yes, you can use the Autodesk123D CNC Utility found here: http://www.123dapp.com/aboutcnc

This utility will work with any standard CNC machine. Our machines use standard electronics and you choose the software that controls the CNC machine.

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If I buy the Combo #1 with hardware, plans for $255.00 and get all the required parts, will i be able to use with Autodesk 123D?

The plans for the whiteAnt 3D Printer will have the dimesions, and the dimensions will be on the individual pieces(cut to spec). The machine is relatively small, so maybe you expected the size(dimensions) to be larger.

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The plans available for download for the "whiteAnt 3D Plastic Printer" do not have dimensions. Are the dimensions shown in the book? Is there a DWG file available?

This may be less of an issue of the grasp that the feeder has on the filament and more an issue of the heat getting to the plastic at the hot end, or having enough heat at the hot end. Try increasing the temperature and try again. If that doesn't work, make sure you are insulating the hot end sufficiently to keep the hot end hot enough to keep the plastic melted.

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3d printer filament is not feeding. It is heating and will melt and feed some but not consistently. Any tips on adjusting the set screw to get a good feed? I'm using PLA with the MK7 stepstruder being sold on the site.

If you have the USB controller you will need to purchase a USB controller license from planet-cnc.

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with the blueChick v4.2 can any software be used or doo we need to purchase a lic key from the manufacture of the control board for 75 bucks

The HY VFD has three main terminals for PWM control. These terminal inputs are:
- VI for the analog (PWM) voltage input (input at the VFD, output at the controller, i.e. the Mach3 USB controller),
- 10V output (this is an output from the VFD and an input at the controller) serves as the high voltage value for the width of the voltage,
- and ACM the ground from the controller (DCM at the controller)

In the parameters:
- PD002 should be set to 1 (one). PD002 is the source of operating frequency which is the RPM of the spindle in the Hz frequency units. 400Hz = 24000 RPM.
- PD003 specifies the frequency range for these terminals (10V, VI, and ACM) where 10V (voltage reference) is 400Hz and 0v is 0Hz, and VI adjusts the range from 0 and the voltage reverence (10V).
- PD070 selects the voltage range or current range (for use with the AI external VFD terminal as opposed to using the VI). You want to keep that parameter at the factory setting of 0 (zero) 0-10V.

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[575] Can you please point me in the direction of a list of VFD Parameters for this to as intended for spindle speed control? I’m using Hunyang VFD. I’ve verified outputs/relays working as intended and PWM signal is correct at the VFD, but its still pulling speed control from the onboard pot instead of PWM signal. I’ve tried every combination of parameters I can think of but no luck.

Yes, the CNC machine hardware and plans combo is the same machine as in the book. The machine that we provide the plans for, can be found on the website, here http://buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-scratchbuild

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IS THE CNC MACHINE HARDWARE & PLANS COMBO SHOWN AT LINK YOU LISTED SAME DESCRIBED IN BOOK?

Try slowing your feedrate down and increasing spindle RPMs. End-mills will leave a poor finish if you go too fast. Make sure your cutting depth isn't too much. Maybe the endmill or cutter is blunt? Could it be the feed direction of the cutter? Some materials need to be fed in a certain direction.

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MOTOR GOING TWO DIRECTION WHEN JUST PUSH UP. IT WILL GO DOWN AND THEN GOES AGAIN UP WITH THE SAME BUTTON.

To convert the whiteAnt to a CNC machine, you will want to lower the upper structure to the lowest position to create the most rigidity overall. You will see that there are many holes below the sides of the upper structure that are evenly spaced. This is so you can adjust this lower. You will also want to fasten the lower sides to a substrate (piece of wood, or something) with l-brackets or something that has a bit of adjustment capability. This will keep the sides more rigid as well. Use a Dremel for the spindle. If you want to use a another spindle, let me know and we can product a mount for that spindle since the Dremel has poor runout (TIR). This is important if you are wanting really precise milling.

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how can I convert the whiteAnt from the 3D printer mode to the CNC milling mode?

Thanks for the kind words. The kit is available for those that want the parts to assemble the case which comes with the computer parts. If you don't need the computer parts, let me know and I will offer the bare bones without the computer system.

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I already have a DIY CNC machine with all my electronics but I have two cases the size of a mid tower PC and was looking to shrink the weight and footprint of all of them. I understand if you don't have plans available, I just really loved the design and compactness of your case.

Previous Solution:
The redLeaf and redSprout boxes are meant to provide enclosure to the systems that we assemble in-house for customers that prefer a complete plug and play system. We provide the kit of parts for the enclosure from overwhelming customer request. There are no plans available for the enclosure and the complexity of the parts needed to be fabricated is quite high where the task of cutting out all of the intricate parts by hand would be a larger investment in time and materials than the cost to purchase the kit.

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Just curious at what you would sell the box itself empty or the dimension files for the box for?

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DO YOU GIVE AWAY THE PLANS FOR REDLEAF/REDSPROUT BOX?

Thanks for the kind words. The kit is available for those that want the parts to assemble the case which comes with the computer parts. If you don't need the computer parts, let me know and I will offer the bare bones without the computer system.

Previous Solution:
I already have a DIY CNC machine with all my electronics but I have two cases the size of a mid tower PC and was looking to shrink the weight and footprint of all of them. I understand if you don't have plans available, I just really loved the design and compactness of your case.

Previous Solution:
The redLeaf and redSprout boxes are meant to provide enclosure to the systems that we assemble in-house for customers that prefer a complete plug and play system. We provide the kit of parts for the enclosure from overwhelming customer request. There are no plans available for the enclosure and the complexity of the parts needed to be fabricated is quite high where the task of cutting out all of the intricate parts by hand would be a larger investment in time and materials than the cost to purchase the kit.

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Just curious at what you would sell the box itself empty or the dimension files for the box for?

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DO YOU GIVE AWAY THE PLANS FOR REDLEAF/REDSPROUT BOX?

What 3d printer do you have?

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whiteant

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HAVE 3D PRINTER THAT WANT TO MAKE CNC ROUTER ,IS THERE ANY GUIDES SHOW ME THE WAY

Our MAch3 USB interface boards can be located here:

https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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I AM INTERESTED IN THE 3 AXIS COMBO USB OPTION. NOTICE YOU ENDORSE PLANET-CNC FOR USE WITH THIS BUT WILL MACH3 INTERFACE WELL BEAK OUT BOARD?

I haven't delved into using encoders with stepping motors too much. From my research, you need to have a controller that can provide the closed loop control, rather than software handling that process. I have also found from my research that using encoders on stepping motors is generally used to stop the machine in the case that the motor failed to achieve the commanded position for some reason and gives the user the chance to correct and continue with the job.

If you want proper closed loop control, it may be best to go with servos and servo controller that provide the closed loop control within the real of those two components.

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I HAVE NOT SEEN ANY REFERENCES TO STEPPING MOTOR ENCODER FEED-BACK FOR CLOSED LOOP CAPABILITY IN OF THE HARDWARE YOU SELL. THIS A SUPPORTED FEATURE WITH HARDWARE/SOFTWARE SELL?

You will be fine with using 2 NEMA 23/24 (425 oz-in) and 1 NEMA 34 (651 oz-in) motors with the Woodsmith CNC build with a large heavy router with a 1/2" collet. Specifically, the Woodsmith CNC build uses lead screws for each axis and this will provide mechanical advantage allowing the motors along with the drive mechanics (lead screws) an increase in torque.

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Building the 2'x4' CNC from the Woodsmith plans and want to use a router with 1/2" collet. Will your stepper motor kit with 2 NEMA-23 and 1 NEMA-34 be sufficient for a Bosch 1617 router motor, or will it be too heavy?