It's Mach3 USB Interface Board, I forgot to mention that!

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I'm having an issue with the AVI PWM output on my board the PW low is about half the voltage of PW High, so if I use 5v I get 2.5 v on low or if I use 10v I get 5v on low? I traced the signal back with my Oscilloscope and found that I get a PW low of 0v on the base of what looks like a smd transistor opposite the DCM connector, do you think I have a got a faulty board?

Considering enlarging the machine, might have its down sides do to the structural integrity of the scratch build machine. Primarily by making the width longer it will start to sag in the center, which will lead to having to redesign the gantry to be more structurally rigid to support the added length. Which then will increase the weight and height of your gantry to support the add size, which will always end up to creating a larger CNC.

We usually do not recommend modifying the scratch build CNC, due to the very limited capabilities, and the structural design of the scratch build. We also do not recommend using longer than 48" ACME screw/leadscrew due to the increasing chance of warping and bending in the ACME screws/leadscrew in the given length.
We do recommend modifying the CNC machines we sell to accommodate the added requests that some of our customers desire, but you will be limited to the width of the gantry with our machines.

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I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

Your question caused me to make a quick video to understand how the pokeys57CNC controller works with a THC.

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[596] Would you help with the Hook up and the Configuration and whether it is in the Plugin or mach 4 control configuration that needs to be set. I decided to use the ultra fast encoders connector pin #8, 12 and 13 for Arc ok, UP and Down. Please advise what setting to set to make it all work. Thank you very much for your help!

Was this VFD purchased from buildyourcnc.com and if so, what is the model number. If not, please provide the model number and we will attempt to determine the issue.

Also, is this question related to a previous question you asked earlier? If so, please respond to that question with this new information.

Many thanks.

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Yes it was purchased through your website, here is the number is YL600-2S-2K20

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Ok great. I will look into it.

Is this related to the R S T and L1 L2 question that was recently asked?

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No

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It started with that but then once it was wired up it changed to this.

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Ok. Thanks. Please explain how you have the VFD wired to the 220v outlet.

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I have traced the black wire clear from the panel to the R terminal and the white wire to the T terminal and the ground to the E terminal. I have even used a multimeter on the terminals in the VFD while the wires are connected and the power is on, and I get 240V across the R and T terminals and 120 from R to Ground and from T to Ground.

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I still have not seen a response to my previous additional information. It has now been 5 days since then and I still have a non-functioning VFD, what should I do?

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My apologies. I didn’t see your latest wiring clarification response. Please connect the white (neutral) wire to the “S” terminal.

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So, i wired it up and now it does in fact power up. However, now it just gives me an ERR 02 code. What does that mean? the only manual that came with the VFD is all in Chinese. Do you have a book in english? Or a list of error codes?

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I have not seen a response to my previous comment. It has been a while since i have heard from you. What do i do next?

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Sorry about that. The Er 02 code in my manual says that there is an over-current at constant speed, over-current at deceleration or over-crrent at stop.
The recommended actions in the manual says:
1. Check whether the motor has got short circuit and whether the insulation of the output wires is good.
2. Check whether the motor is blocked and whether there is a sudden change of mechanical load.
3. Check whether there is a sudden change in he power supply voltage.
4. Check whether the insulation of the output wires is good and whether the motor has got a short circuit.
5. Extend the ramp down time.
6. Replace it with an inverter (VFD) of larger capacity
7. DE braking is too high. Decrease DC braking (this is only if you have a braking resistor connected).
8. The inverter has failure. Please send it to the factory to repair.

What I have done in the office is to check the resistance between the motor coils. The motor coils should have the same amount of wire winding on each coil. If there is a short circuit in this coil, the the resistance should be lower since there is less wire to travel. You can use a multimeter to check between pin 1 and 2, 1 and 3 and 2 and 3. The resistance should be generally the same.

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I worked threw all the other problems. the controller is now displaying Err 10. WHat does that mean.

Can you provide a complete list of error codes. Or documentation to support this device you sold to me.

id like to be able to integrate this thing into my growing business. i have been pretty unhappy so far with the lack of support. If you have any documentation, can you please send it to me. i cant be the only one having issues. Or even asking for help with these VFDs.

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So I had my electrician hook it up as per your recommendations and nothing happens. Nothing lights up on the screen and nothing turns on. I have verified that the vfd that I was supplied is for single phase power and I have single phase power at my shop. It is a 220v vfd and I am supplying it with 220v. What do I do now? Is this vfd a bad one and do I need a new one?

The motor with that model number is here: https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-nema24-425ozin

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In looking for a stepper motor amongst old parts in my lab, I found one with a sticker that says buildyourowncnc.com and PN SM60HT86-2008BF U2 on it. I found a Q&A on your website that says it's a NEMA 24 motor with 425 oz/in holding torque. I was wondering if you were able to confirm this? Any specs sheets and details of the motor would be much appreciated

Please contact us at sales@buildyourcnc.com so we can provide you with assistance on your order

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I am trying to purchase a kit for our school in Singapore, and your site keeps refusing our corporate AMEX card. Can you help us figure out what is up with that? Are you not ship to Singapore or something? Our AMEX rep says that the account is authorised for this purchase from our end, so the problem may be with your site? Please advise.

We currently do not have any step down adapters for the vacuum pressure sensor, and would recommend looking at local hardware stores or major online hardware suppliers (ex: McMaster, grainger) . However it is something you will be need to be very specific with, ex: Barb 1/4" Hose ID to 1/8" Hose ID Reducer Fitting. Is something I would recommend when trying to fit a larger tube.

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I am interested in using your vacuum pump controller pressure switch for one of our applications. However, I am concerned about having a proper connection from the 1/16" sensor barb to our vacuum line. Do you carry adapter of common sizes to step down to a 1/16" line? If not, do you know who might? (I have already done some prelim searching with little luck)

I also place the controller very close to the drivers (on the back of the gantry). All of the cables are shielded. The only long cables are the mains power cables and the USB cable. The USB cable is shielded and contains active repeaters.

There is no problem putting all of the electronics in a box and using long cables to the motors. This is the way I did it for a very long time.

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Great site. I saw your videos of wiring the Mach3 USB controller. You place the drivers next to the Steppers. This means that you have very long leads to the USB Board? What about the placement of the controlling PC? Is it a problem to have the USB board, PSUs and Drivers in a control box and long leads to the steppers? Thank you.

You will also need to check if the mach3 configuration and the wiring. Since you tested the connection from the motors to the drivers, the connection from the computer to the interface may still be the issue. It could also be the connection from the interface to the drivers, but we test all of these units going out, so I don't believe that would be the problem.

If you have a redfly that uses a parallel cable, you may need to check to make sure the parallel cable is functioning properly, and also, make sure that the interface is also powered using a usb cable.

If you have a usb interface (the terminals will be labeled XD, XP and so on), then there may be a wire not seated correctly in a terminal.

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I plug in my redFly for the first time and after configuring Mach3 and rechecked my settings axes Y and Z are working well, but X is not working, just for testing I plugged in each motor to the Y and Z and they work fine, but no motor works when plug into the X axes of the redFly, also one of the NEMA 24 425 Oz motors dose not turn just jitters.

If you purchase the assembled machine (which we highly recommend since you are outside the US) the entire system is tested, so you will not need any replacement parts. We have used motors and spindles on our machines that work constantly and daily for many years. These items still work to this day.

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Dear Sir or Madam, I'm looking for high quality and reliable CNC for my shop and I can find that the greenbull 5x is suitable for me. Would you please clarify where the hardware items are made, and how reliable will the greenbull be. Take into consideration that I'm outside the US, so buying spare parts from you should be planned long before and unexpected maintenance would stop our work.

There is a multitude of methods to create the table and frame for the greenBull long-z CNC machine, as some of the illustrations are shown on our gB webpage.

The image with the hollow mid section, is a custom table that will take advantage of the entire long-z axis assembly. So the frame can be built in that manner, however the CNC table should have its 3/4" table top. So you can cut standard sheets of wood, aluminum, plastics, etc.

So that specific illustration is not needed, however if you plan on cutting at that depth then it will defiantly benefit you to have that frame as shown in the illustration!

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Can you please clarify what a long Z axis table should look like? I've built a frame that matches the dimensions on the GreenBull page but under long Z it says a custom frame is required made out of steel, which I did. But do I need to have the frame open like shown in the picture or is that just showing what the table looks like under the 3/4 material?

Wiring diagrams for the Laser Power Supply will be mostly the same with the updated power supply. The main difference is the newer power supply contains a secondary green terminal block on the front of the power supply next where the hard leads are connected. This differs from the older power supply which had contact points on the back of the power supply. Please refer to the tutorials section for updated information and if you have specific questions please email techsupport@buildyourcnc.com

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I am assebling the Blacktooth CNC laser 20x24" with what appears to be an updated power supply. After refrencing the wiring diagram on line and the totorial, may I ask for an updated diagram or totorial, the current version do not appear to match match the configuration provided. I do not feel confidant in the educational guess, that I have. thanks

The linatron is an industrial linear accelerator manufactured by Varian Medical Systems1. In a linatron, the electron beam strikes a target, producing bremsstrahlung which is then collimated with internal collimators and sometimes with external collimators. The target and internal collimator are typically made of some high-Z material such as tungsten. The accelerator head is usually shielded with lead or tungsten. Neutron production will take place in any material struck by an electron or bremsstrahlung beam above a threshold energy (Eth). The minimum threshold for photoneutron production in tungsten and lead is 6.19 MeV and 6.11 MeV, respectively (NCRP 1984). Thus a linatron operating at 9 MV will produce neutrons. The photoneutron spectrum from the accelerator head resembles that of a fission spectrum. The spectrum changes after penetration through the head shielding. Since the linatron is usually operated in a concrete-shielded room, room-scattered neutrons will further soften the spectrum. Neutrons are classified as:

Thermal: En = 0.025 eV at 20°C; typically En < 0.5 eV (cadmium resonance)
Intermediate: 0.5 eV Fast: En > 10 keV
where En is the neutron energy.

The neutrons observed at the camera location will consist primarily of neutrons leaking directly from the accelerator head, room-scattered neutrons, neutrons produced in the object to be imaged by the primary bremsstrahlung beam, and neutrons scattered from the object to be imaged. Since the camera is not in the direct-beam path, photoneutrons can only be produced in the shielding by leakage photons or photons scattered from the object to be imaged. Since leakage photons are typically only 1 percent or 0.01 percent of the primary beam or even lower, neutron production in the camera shielding from leakage photons can be considered negligible, as can neutrons produced by photons scattered from the object. Therefore changing the shielding from tungsten to lead will not significantly reduce the neutrons at the camera location. The camera can be shielded from neutrons with several inches of a hydrogeneous material such as polyethylene. If thermal neutrons are also of concern, polyethylene doped with 5 percent boron (borated polyethylene) can be used. Boron has a much higher cross-section than polyethylene for thermal neutron capture. Boron interacts with thermal neutrons by undergoing an (n,a) reaction producing 7Li, which then undergoes an isomeric transition by emitting a 0.478 MeV photon or gamma ray. These photons are much lower in energy than the thermal neutron capture gammas (2.2 MeV) from hydrogen in the polyethylene. A sandwich construction of tungsten (or lead), polyethylene, and tungsten (or lead) will work best.

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WE ARE PERFORMING DIGITAL X RAY USING A 9 OR 15 MEV LINATRON. THE CAMERA NOT IN DIRECT BEAM PATH. TO SHIELD USED 2.5-INCH THICK TUNGSTEN. NOW FIND HAVE VERY HIGH NEUTRON DOSE WITHIN SHIELDED CONTAINER. WOULD SEEN THIS SAME PROBLEM LEAD TUNGSTEN WORSE? WHAT CAN DO ELIMINATE ACTIVATION CONTAINER? IT BE ENOUGH ADD BORON PLASTIC POWDER COAT

The license file should be called Mach1Lic.Dat, you can copy it to a Mach3 folder on another computer and it will register the program.

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You sent my my activation code which I have jealously, guarded on my Desktop till needed, now, unfortunately I cant get it to copy from Desktop to the computer and Mach3, is it possible to get advice on this or maybe a replacement that can be put on a stick then plugged into my Mach3 computer. This is how I have tried but when I open the folder it is empty. Thanks for your patience with me.

I am wrong. They are 'X'ed out as not included. There was no notification of when they would ship.

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The White Ant that I've been waiting for arrived yesterday. Today, I discover that the three pieces associated with the extruder tip were not in the package. These are the three pieces directly under the word "White" in your parts page. And, yes, they were checked off as having been shipped. They weren't. I trust you will get them here as fast as you can.

I would highly recommend a spindle and VFD rather than a router.

Spindles:
- Have a far longer life longer than a router. You will probably go through a few routers before the end of the spindle's life.
- Are quieter than routers
- And the water cooled spindles we stock do not blow the chips into the air. Chips are much easier to capture with or without a dust removal system.

You can find our spindles here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx

Once you get your first spindle, you will never go back to routers. Routers are great for handrouting work, but not the best for continuous CNC milling.

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Hi there, I have a cnc table that I built but I am looking for a higher powered router because I am using the table for flattening slabs with a large straight bit. Would you have any recommendations for the type of router I should buy? Also do you sell large bits for flattening slabs?

Hi, you can call me at the 281-815-7701 number. Please leave a message when you call as most of the calls are screened to avoid scam calls. You can also email me at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com or phooddaniel@berkeley.edu.

The newer kits that are featured on the home page include everything you need except a computer and software. The legacy CNC routers that are located in the CNC machines menu selection include all of the parts for the gantry, but you will need to build the table yourself. All of the information on the measurements to be followed for the table construction are on the machine pages.

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I am looking at getting a 4x8 cnc router kit. I am having a hard time figuring out what is included in the kit and what else i will need to buy with it to get off the ground and running. Is there someone i could talk to to walk me through it? If not, can you break down what all I need to go from scratch to a running set up? thanks

Are you referring to the parts that make up the mount for the nozzle that slides along rail?

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Yes. Because the wood is thicker than the plastic, the holes for the screws that hold the bearings are off.

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Yes, understood. We must have used the wrong CAM file to cut the parts for those pieces. My apologies for that. I would rather send you new pieces poste haste.


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I might just go ahead and try to make them. I already had to make one piece that was missing. However, if you think you can get them here by Thursday, I can just go ahead and put the body together. If you do plan on sending them, I also need three more M 8 x 16 mm screws. Also still looking for a mini air compressor for the assist. Overall, the design is great and I'm enjoying putting it together.

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Thank you for the kind words. I will send it anyway and check with Sandra (the current shipper) if Thursday is possible. Just to confirm, the parts related to the steps 46 to 52 in the Vertical Laser XL instructions. Correct? There is a single screw that tightens the bearings onto the rails. This screw is located at the center of the assembly. I'm sure you did this already, but it deserves a mention just in case somebody else has this issue. Make sure that the screw is all the way loose to see if it still doesn't fit. Also worth mentioning, make sure not to tighten it too much as it is very easy to crack the plexiglass. The screw creates a very high force on this assembly.

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Yes. I think you should revisit your plexi cut sheets. The top two holes that hold the laser head from step 47 we're not drilled. I had to drill those. The part from step 48 was not included so I modified a different piece to make it. Also, the centerpiece from step 32, was not included. I ended up making one from plexi but I suggest machining it from aluminum.

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That is odd. I will definitely take a look. That doesn't sound right at all.

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But, once again, great design so far. I much prefer putting it together myself. Ill start working on the body.

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Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

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Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

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Excellent!


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I ended up just using a 2 nut system to secure the tensioner. The one I made cracked so that's why I suggested a machined Al.

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That makes sense.

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Hi Patrick, I also seem to have gotten some old or mis-cut parts -- holes don't line up in step 31, slot missing in step 36, and so on. I sent you an email last Friday with more details (subject "Order 41101"). Since then we realized that the y axis rails for step 37 are also cut too long and will need to be cut down by a few inches. That's as far as we've gotten so far, so no idea what else is lurking.

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I've copied my last comment to a new question to keep from cluttering up this thread; don't know yet if I'm also going to hit the issues with steps 46-52.

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Bought a vlxl from you guys. Great design however since you changed the main gantry support from plastic to wood, the guides for the head do not fit with the given plastic pieces. I do not think I have enough wiggle room in the plastic to drill new holes. I may be able to cut down the aluminum. What do you suggest?

Depending on the type of motors and connection type, you could adapt your motors to work with our electronic packages, but you will receive additional motors since our kit is complete.

Now you will have to take into affect the actual motors you have and compare or get accurate replacements(Ex. our 425 oz motor(1/4" input shaft) will have to be same size or similar entry holes)

Your Controller board will be the major issue, due to its wiring and processing manner, you can view the connections for our breakout boards to compare with yours! (parallel: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/)(USB: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/)
Email(customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further help)

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I purchased the original instructions about 3 years ago and successfully built that device. Now I am looking at the 13X36 Bluechick base kit. Will all my original electronics work with the new kit? Is there a parts list that you could send me for the 13x36 Kit?