So I had my electrician hook it up as per your recommendations and nothing happens. Nothing lights up on the screen and nothing turns on. I have verified that the vfd that I was supplied is for single phase power and I have single phase power at my shop. It is a 220v vfd and I am supplying it with 220v. What do I do now? Is this vfd a bad one and do I need a new one?

New 3D Resins Comparison Table:
We've just launched a new, comprehensive 3D Resins Comparison Table to help you find the perfect resin for any application. Explore now and elevate your 3D printing experience with ease and precision. Say goodbye to searching all over the web for scattered information.

Livestreams Every Weekday at 1:00 pm Eastern
Join me and likeminded others on a livestream I host every weekday where I experiment, learn and discover. Topic for Tuesdays and Thursdays: CNC Discussion and Random Experiments. Topic for Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays: Microcontroller programming and circuit building.

Question #: 13920

Question: So I had my electrician hook it up as per your recommendations and nothing happens. Nothing lights up on the screen and nothing turns on. I have verified that the vfd that I was supplied is for single phase power and I have single phase power at my shop. It is a 220v vfd and I am supplying it with 220v. What do I do now? Is this vfd a bad one and do I need a new one?

Current Solution

Was this VFD purchased from buildyourcnc.com and if so, what is the model number. If not, please provide the model number and we will attempt to determine the issue.

Also, is this question related to a previous question you asked earlier? If so, please respond to that question with this new information.

Many thanks.

Additional Information:
Yes it was purchased through your website, here is the number is YL600-2S-2K20

Additional Information:
Ok great. I will look into it.

Is this related to the R S T and L1 L2 question that was recently asked?

Additional Information:
No

Additional Information:
It started with that but then once it was wired up it changed to this.

Additional Information:
Ok. Thanks. Please explain how you have the VFD wired to the 220v outlet.

Additional Information:
I have traced the black wire clear from the panel to the R terminal and the white wire to the T terminal and the ground to the E terminal. I have even used a multimeter on the terminals in the VFD while the wires are connected and the power is on, and I get 240V across the R and T terminals and 120 from R to Ground and from T to Ground.

Additional Information:
I still have not seen a response to my previous additional information. It has now been 5 days since then and I still have a non-functioning VFD, what should I do?

Additional Information:
My apologies. I didn’t see your latest wiring clarification response. Please connect the white (neutral) wire to the “S” terminal.

Additional Information:
So, i wired it up and now it does in fact power up. However, now it just gives me an ERR 02 code. What does that mean? the only manual that came with the VFD is all in Chinese. Do you have a book in english? Or a list of error codes?

Additional Information:
I have not seen a response to my previous comment. It has been a while since i have heard from you. What do i do next?

Additional Information:
Sorry about that. The Er 02 code in my manual says that there is an over-current at constant speed, over-current at deceleration or over-crrent at stop.
The recommended actions in the manual says:
1. Check whether the motor has got short circuit and whether the insulation of the output wires is good.
2. Check whether the motor is blocked and whether there is a sudden change of mechanical load.
3. Check whether there is a sudden change in he power supply voltage.
4. Check whether the insulation of the output wires is good and whether the motor has got a short circuit.
5. Extend the ramp down time.
6. Replace it with an inverter (VFD) of larger capacity
7. DE braking is too high. Decrease DC braking (this is only if you have a braking resistor connected).
8. The inverter has failure. Please send it to the factory to repair.

What I have done in the office is to check the resistance between the motor coils. The motor coils should have the same amount of wire winding on each coil. If there is a short circuit in this coil, the the resistance should be lower since there is less wire to travel. You can use a multimeter to check between pin 1 and 2, 1 and 3 and 2 and 3. The resistance should be generally the same.

Additional Information:
I worked threw all the other problems. the controller is now displaying Err 10. WHat does that mean.

Can you provide a complete list of error codes. Or documentation to support this device you sold to me.

id like to be able to integrate this thing into my growing business. i have been pretty unhappy so far with the lack of support. If you have any documentation, can you please send it to me. i cant be the only one having issues. Or even asking for help with these VFDs.

Respond:

Other Possible Solutions to this Question

I have a MK1 board that I just got running and I am having issues. Do you have an MK1 board at your shop that I can send you my G-Code to run? The freexing/zeroing in the middle of the program issue happens even with no step drives attached to the board.
My apologies for not getting back to you. We always answer the phones during business hours, so I would try that first. Our emails on Monday generally is stacked up as we are closed during the weekend. We can try your g-code here. Please send the g-code to the techsupport@buildyourcnc.com email address and we will test the code to see if it works.

By the way, do you get movement on the planet-cnc UI screen?

Additional Information:
The program starts and runs normal. I have all the correct movement on the mill and the UI screen. Then one of two things happens. It either stops and resets all axis to zero in the middle of the part or it freezes in the middle of the part. When it freezes, it is not moving on the cnc or the UI screen. Sometimes after a freeze it will come up with an 'IO timeout error', but the only way to clear is to unplug USB and start over.
I will send my settings and g-code files over tonight. Please be sure to load my settings when running the g-code. No movement of the cnc is necessary as the controller will do these issues without power to any drives and just the USB board connected, on my board at least.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I have a MK1 board that I just got running and I am having issues. Do you have an MK1 board at your shop that I can send you my G-Code to run? The freexing/zeroing in the middle of the program issue happens even with no step drives attached to the board.
Lost Comm with steppers: I have been running Mach3 with my Black Toe for years. This morning, I booted up, motors locked up. Started Mach, hit reset, and nothing. Can't move. Checked plugs. Diag screen says OK. What to look for? I have the BYOCNC Computer/contoller box.
New clues. I loaded a different profile I have used for another machine and my Black Toe moves. Of course all the settings are different. I load my normal profile and no ports, pins, or outputs light up.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
Lost Comm with steppers: I have been running Mach3 with my Black Toe for years. This morning, I booted up, motors locked up. Started Mach, hit reset, and nothing. Can't move. Checked plugs. Diag screen says OK. What to look for? I have the BYOCNC Computer/contoller box.
I am looking at one of your electronics packages as a replacement for my excisting electronics. I have a old table top CNC that has a bad electronics pack, but the motors, and the mill are in good shape. could your system be adapted to work in this case?
Depending on the type of motors and connection type, you could adapt your motors to work with our electronic packages, but you will receive additional motors since our kit is complete.

Now you will have to take into affect the actual motors you have and compare or get accurate replacements(Ex. our 425 oz motor(1/4" input shaft) will have to be same size or similar entry holes)

Your Controller board will be the major issue, due to its wiring and processing manner, you can view the connections for our breakout boards to compare with yours! (parallel: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/)(USB: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/)
Email(customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further help)
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I am looking at one of your electronics packages as a replacement for my excisting electronics. I have a old table top CNC that has a bad electronics pack, but the motors, and the mill are in good shape. could your system be adapted to work in this case?
I am looking at purchasing your 2.2 kw water cooled spindle. I'm assuming it comes with the VFD. I have a rotary phase converter in my shop. Are these spindles 3 phase? And if so, can I bypass use of the VFD and control the spindle speed by the CAM software instead? Or is the VFD an absolute necessity to use on the spindle?
Identify the Control Signals: First, determine which control signals from the DB25 interface card are used for spindle speed control. Typically, these are PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signals or analog voltage signals.

VFD Configuration: Your VFD should be configured to accept the type of control signal your DB25 card provides. This involves setting parameters in the VFD that correspond to the type of input signal it will receive for speed control.

Wiring: Connect the appropriate output pins from the DB25 card to the input terminals on the VFD. This usually involves connecting the PWM or analog output to the corresponding input on the VFD. Make sure to consult the manuals for both your VFD and interface card for specific wiring details.

UCCNC Settings: Configure UCCNC to output the correct type of signal (PWM or analog) that matches your VFD's configuration. This is done through the software's spindle setup section.

Test and Adjust: Run some tests to ensure that the spindle speed is being correctly controlled by UCCNC. You might need to tweak settings in either the VFD or UCCNC for optimal performance.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I am looking at purchasing your 2.2 kw water cooled spindle. I'm assuming it comes with the VFD. I have a rotary phase converter in my shop. Are these spindles 3 phase? And if so, can I bypass use of the VFD and control the spindle speed by the CAM software instead? Or is the VFD an absolute necessity to use on the spindle?
I have your breakout board with relay parallel port , I have a vacuum, light on router and air pump I want to also hook up to board, can I hook those up to board and also could I had reylays to each one, what is the best way to figure this out any information would be great. Thanks
Here is how to connect your router to the parallel breakout board through the on-board relay. You will need a spare extension cord. You will need to remove a portion of the outer jacket of the extension cord to expose the white, black and green wires (white = neutral, black = live and green = ground), understanding that the neutral and live create the completed circuit.

See this image of a similar connection. The terminal has the same connections.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/vacuum-pressure-controller-relay-terminals-700.JPG

Image of the relay terminal:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/breakoutboardrelayNONC.PNG

The live/black wire would be cut and one end of the cut would be secured into the P terminal and the other cut end would be secured into the S terminal. The live and ground wire would be uncut and travel from the plug to the router.

Additional Information:
You can also connect other high powered devices to the breakout board using any of the output terminals. You will need to supply extra relays like the one shown here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-breakout-Relays-relay-board-250V-12A-5V

Or you can find SSRs (Solid State Relays) that will accept 5v to drive the relay coil. Make sure the SSR will protect the 5V line from Back EMF as there is a coil in the relay. The one we sell contains a fly-back diode to protect the 5v terminal.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I have your breakout board with relay parallel port , I have a vacuum, light on router and air pump I want to also hook up to board, can I hook those up to board and also could I had reylays to each one, what is the best way to figure this out any information would be great. Thanks
Does the Redfly that I bought with the GreenBull in 2016 work with Mach4? Also I want to add a 4th axis and a spindle with automatic tool changer. Will this work too or do I need a new control board? I bought my CNC with a longer Z travel, so I have plenty of room for these. Thanks!
That will depend on the controller that was installed in the redFly. If the controller is a pokeys57CNC controller, you can use Mach 4 with that system.

You can add a 4th axis and an ATC (Automatic Tool Changer) with the redFly system.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
Does the Redfly that I bought with the GreenBull in 2016 work with Mach4? Also I want to add a 4th axis and a spindle with automatic tool changer. Will this work too or do I need a new control board? I bought my CNC with a longer Z travel, so I have plenty of room for these. Thanks!
Hi there, I have a cnc table that I built but I am looking for a higher powered router because I am using the table for flattening slabs with a large straight bit. Would you have any recommendations for the type of router I should buy? Also do you sell large bits for flattening slabs?
I would highly recommend a spindle and VFD rather than a router.

Spindles:
- Have a far longer life longer than a router. You will probably go through a few routers before the end of the spindle's life.
- Are quieter than routers
- And the water cooled spindles we stock do not blow the chips into the air. Chips are much easier to capture with or without a dust removal system.

You can find our spindles here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx

Once you get your first spindle, you will never go back to routers. Routers are great for handrouting work, but not the best for continuous CNC milling.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
Hi there, I have a cnc table that I built but I am looking for a higher powered router because I am using the table for flattening slabs with a large straight bit. Would you have any recommendations for the type of router I should buy? Also do you sell large bits for flattening slabs?
On your diagram it says to connect the power to the VFD in port L1, L2 and PE. On the VFD I have there is no L1 or L2. Which ports do I connect my input power to? There is only a P+, P-, R, S, T, U, V, W, and PE. What do I do?
On "our" VFDs, we advise that the R connect to black (live), T connect to white (neutral) and green to E or earth. We are not professional electricians, so we also recommend that you seek the advice of a professional electrician. Some VFDs are made to work on 3 phase power and this configuration may not work with these VFDs.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
On your diagram it says to connect the power to the VFD in port L1, L2 and PE. On the VFD I have there is no L1 or L2. Which ports do I connect my input power to? There is only a P+, P-, R, S, T, U, V, W, and PE. What do I do?
I have the 2.2 kW spindle and VFD for 110v, just wondering what amperage this draws, as my electricain buddy is telling me I need to put in a 20 amp breaker for this. I cant seem to find any amerpage draw on the INPUT label
You can actually set a current limit in in the VFD using the programming process and the specifications in the manual that came with your VFD. You can expect the spindle at 220 Volts AC to draw (using the standard formula):

For Volts, I will use 230 as the range is generally 220 to 240.

Watts = Current * Volts

Can also be written as:

Current = Watts / Volts

Current = 2.2kW (2200 watts) / 230 volts

Current = 9.6 amps
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I have the 2.2 kW spindle and VFD for 110v, just wondering what amperage this draws, as my electricain buddy is telling me I need to put in a 20 amp breaker for this. I cant seem to find any amerpage draw on the INPUT label
I purchased the blackTooth Laser Engraver with integrated Laser Control Unit and have been following your instructions. I noticed that the laser tube power supply is different that what is shown in your instructions. Do you have any better wiring guides that I can follow for the version that I received?
There is some variation in the outward appearance of laser power supplies due to sourcing through different vendors. However, the basic wiring requirements are the same in each case. For the unit with integrated laser controller, follow the diagram found here: https://buildyourcnc.com/blackToothLaserCutterAndEngraver.aspx#prettyPhoto/0/. The terminals on the signal side will have a 6 connection terminal block -- these are the ones labeled 5V, IN, G, P (or WP), L (or TTL-L), and H (or TTL-H). The High Power side will have 3 inputs for AC power, one high voltage lead, and one return line. Connect these as shown in the diagram as well: the return line goes on the "front" (beam exit end) terminal of the laser tube, the high voltage lead goes to the "back" terminal of the tube, the FG terminal (or G) receives the earth ground wire of the AC power cable, and the two AC terminals receive the line and neutral wires of the AC power cable (it doesn't matter in this case which wire goes to which terminal).
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I purchased the blackTooth Laser Engraver with integrated Laser Control Unit and have been following your instructions. I noticed that the laser tube power supply is different that what is shown in your instructions. Do you have any better wiring guides that I can follow for the version that I received?
I'm new to this and was wondering if I connected something incorrectly... I followed the schematics found on this site for wiring. I purchased the heavy gantry kit with the USB power option. All my lights come on and motor shafts resist turning but, I cannot get movement from Mach3. How do I test my equipment to see if I've damaged anything?
By USB power do you mean the USB board? or do you mean that it is powered through USB but you have the parallel breakout board?

Additional Information:
I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

Additional Information:
I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

Additional Information:
I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I'm new to this and was wondering if I connected something incorrectly... I followed the schematics found on this site for wiring. I purchased the heavy gantry kit with the USB power option. All my lights come on and motor shafts resist turning but, I cannot get movement from Mach3. How do I test my equipment to see if I've damaged anything?
When wiring line voltage to the VFD your diagram shows one line of 240 going to the R terminal and a neutral going to the T terminal. My electrician thinks this may be incorrect and he believes that one leg of 120 should run to the R terminal and the other leg of 120 to either S or T. Is this correct and if so should the second leg/pole be run to S or T? Thank you
Always defer to the advice of a professional electrician. If your professional electrician believes the wiring of the VFD is incorrect as per our recommendations, always use the advice of the professional electrician.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
When wiring line voltage to the VFD your diagram shows one line of 240 going to the R terminal and a neutral going to the T terminal. My electrician thinks this may be incorrect and he believes that one leg of 120 should run to the R terminal and the other leg of 120 to either S or T. Is this correct and if so should the second leg/pole be run to S or T? Thank you
I HAVE A 2.2KW WATER COOLED SPINDLE WITH YL620-H VFD. THE VFD USES P#-## PROGRAM FORMAT. BELIEVE ALL CORRECT SETTINGS SETUP BUT WHEN TURN UNIT ON, IT SPINS AT ABOUT 200-300 RPM REGARDLESS OF WHAT FREQUENCY CHOOSE. DO YOU PARAMETERS IN THIS FORMAT FOR UNIT? THANK YOUR HELP. HUIBERT MEES
You will need to look for the parameter that controls the run frequency. The frequency can be controlled bu the panel, external terminals, or the RS485 TX/RX terminals (UART protocol). You will want to change that parameter so it uses the panel. If you are referring to the maximum panel dial frequency is only allowing 200-300 rpm, then look for the parameters to control the frequency.

For 200 RPM:
Hz = 200/60 = 3.33 Hz

For 300 RPM:
Hz = 300/60 = 5 Hz

Conversion to RPM:
If you ever find yourself yearning to reverse-engineer the process, the formula is as follows:

RPM = Hz × 60

Look for values that match somewhere between 3 and 5 in your frequency parameters and replace them with 400 to give you 24,000 RPM max.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I HAVE A 2.2KW WATER COOLED SPINDLE WITH YL620-H VFD. THE VFD USES P#-## PROGRAM FORMAT. BELIEVE ALL CORRECT SETTINGS SETUP BUT WHEN TURN UNIT ON, IT SPINS AT ABOUT 200-300 RPM REGARDLESS OF WHAT FREQUENCY CHOOSE. DO YOU PARAMETERS IN THIS FORMAT FOR UNIT? THANK YOUR HELP. HUIBERT MEES
I purchased a 2.2 spindle a while back and went to the electrical supply house to but shielded cable for the power run, I was on the web a while back and saw a picture of shielded cable that didn't look like what I had bought. should it have a copper like mesh wraped around the inner insulation. Thanks
Many shielded cables come in various materials and designs, so having one with a copper mesh covering the inner insulator wire is no problem. We currently use a extension cord found locally at a hardware store and include one 18G wire for ground. So a specific shielded cable is not a required, unless being used next to specific and sensitive electronics that are extremely sensitive to noise and voltage interference than a shielded cable is required.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I purchased a 2.2 spindle a while back and went to the electrical supply house to but shielded cable for the power run, I was on the web a while back and saw a picture of shielded cable that didn't look like what I had bought. should it have a copper like mesh wraped around the inner insulation. Thanks
Hello. I'm currently building my first CNC router, and I'm powering it with a 3 axis electronics kit that was purchased through your site. I chose to get the Mach 3 USB Breakout board, but now I'm wanting to try to use Linux CNC to work with the computer I have available. Will that work with this board?
The Mach3 USB will not work with Linux CNC. You can use our parallel breakout baord instead (if you have a computer that has a parallel port available).

Here is the link to that interface:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay
Click the link to add information to this solution:
Hello. I'm currently building my first CNC router, and I'm powering it with a 3 axis electronics kit that was purchased through your site. I chose to get the Mach 3 USB Breakout board, but now I'm wanting to try to use Linux CNC to work with the computer I have available. Will that work with this board?
My Z-axis seems to be reversed on a fully assembled machine... I've tried reversing it in the config settings on Mach 3, but to no avail. What do I need to do? IS this a wiring issue that was not done correctly at the factory?
If your Z axis is moving in the opposite direction, go into Mach3, click on config, ports & pins, then click on the motor outputs tab. You will see the axes labeled on the left and the parameters labeled on the top of this dialog box. Toggle the dir low active for the z-axis.

Additional Information:
What if I'm having the same issue on a different axis?

Additional Information:
You can follow the same procedure as with the z-axis. When you get to the motors outputs tab, toggle the dir low active checkbox for the axis that you would like to change.

If you are using another control program, let me know and I will add the recommended action here.

Additional Information:
Girbl

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

Additional Information:
Click the link to add information to this solution:
My Z-axis seems to be reversed on a fully assembled machine... I've tried reversing it in the config settings on Mach 3, but to no avail. What do I need to do? IS this a wiring issue that was not done correctly at the factory?
I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks
The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

Additional Information:
I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

Additional Information:
Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks
I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks
The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

Additional Information:
I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

Additional Information:
Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks
Placed an order for the cable set for the Pokeys57cnc interface on 10/20 but it is not showing up in My Account as being ordered. It was charged to my credit card and I have not had any info that it was received by you.
Sure, let me check.

Additional Information:
Your order was shipped out on Tuesday (10/20/2020). I noticed that your email was not stored in the customer record when the order was made. I will send you the tracking number via email now.
Click the link to add information to this solution:
Placed an order for the cable set for the Pokeys57cnc interface on 10/20 but it is not showing up in My Account as being ordered. It was charged to my credit card and I have not had any info that it was received by you.