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Question #: 13746

Question: I have a MK1 board that I just got running and I am having issues. Do you have an MK1 board at your shop that I can send you my G-Code to run? The freexing/zeroing in the middle of the program issue happens even with no step drives attached to the board.

Current Solution

My apologies for not getting back to you. We always answer the phones during business hours, so I would try that first. Our emails on Monday generally is stacked up as we are closed during the weekend. We can try your g-code here. Please send the g-code to the techsupport@buildyourcnc.com email address and we will test the code to see if it works.

By the way, do you get movement on the planet-cnc UI screen?

Additional Information:
The program starts and runs normal. I have all the correct movement on the mill and the UI screen. Then one of two things happens. It either stops and resets all axis to zero in the middle of the part or it freezes in the middle of the part. When it freezes, it is not moving on the cnc or the UI screen. Sometimes after a freeze it will come up with an 'IO timeout error', but the only way to clear is to unplug USB and start over.
I will send my settings and g-code files over tonight. Please be sure to load my settings when running the g-code. No movement of the cnc is necessary as the controller will do these issues without power to any drives and just the USB board connected, on my board at least.

Respond:

Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • I am having trouble connecting the cambam program with my Mach3 to my 4X8 Blackfoot CNC machine. Where can I get help on this issue. Have had my machine since 2015 and have not been able to use it. Thank you

    CamBam specifically creates the g-code (machining operations) instructions to be loaded into Mach3. Make sure in your CamBam g-code file parameters, you are using the Mach3 post processor. If you have already done this, let me know. If you are not sure how to do this, let me know.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I am having trouble connecting the cambam program with my Mach3 to my 4X8 Blackfoot CNC machine. Where can I get help on this issue. Have had my machine since 2015 and have not been able to use it. Thank you

  • I WIRED MY VFD (2.2KW VERSION) AND TRIED TEST RUNNING THE SPINDLE. CONFIGURED TO YOUR SPECS ON THIS WEBSITE, ONLY ISSUE IS WE GOT AN ERROR CODE. ERR 02, DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS? OR HAVE A LIST OF CODES? THANK

    Can you provide the model number of your VFD?

    Yes, I have the "YL600 - 2S - 2K20"

    It just came with a small booklet that is all in Chinese...

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I WIRED MY VFD (2.2KW VERSION) AND TRIED TEST RUNNING THE SPINDLE. CONFIGURED TO YOUR SPECS ON THIS WEBSITE, ONLY ISSUE IS WE GOT AN ERROR CODE. ERR 02, DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS? OR HAVE A LIST OF CODES? THANK

  • I wired my vfd (2.2kw version) and tried test running the spindle. I configured to your specs on this website, only issue is we got an error code. Err 02, do you know what this is? OR have a list of error codes? Thank you

    Can you provide the model number of your VFD?

    Yes, I have the "YL600 - 2S - 2K20"

    It just came with a small booklet that is all in Chinese...

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I wired my vfd (2.2kw version) and tried test running the spindle. I configured to your specs on this website, only issue is we got an error code. Err 02, do you know what this is? OR have a list of error codes? Thank you

  • I have a home built CNC running Mach 3. I have power to all the motors and the breakout board but no movement when running g-code. I cannot even manually move the motors with the arrow keys or page up and down. It also has an integrated 120v receptacle showing an open ground. I don't know if all this is related.

    The fact that you cannot move the motors with the keyboard serves as a clue to a couple possibilities.

    - The software may not be communicating with parallel port. (One possibility may be that your step pins are not low active, or vice versa depending on your drivers).
    - You may not be in the correct tab of Mach3. Make sure you are in the Program Run tab.
    - The jog on/off button on the program run screen may not be lit (invoked).

    This address below shows the complete troubleshooting for this type of situation. It will show how to test each pin at the parallel port at the back of the computer and everything else associated with correctly wiring the electronics.

    https://buildyourcnc.com/CNCElectronicsandWiring.aspx




    Additional Information:
    6 axis robot with Mach3 Card 6 Axis Motion Controller

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I have a home built CNC running Mach 3. I have power to all the motors and the breakout board but no movement when running g-code. I cannot even manually move the motors with the arrow keys or page up and down. It also has an integrated 120v receptacle showing an open ground. I don't know if all this is related.

  • I have received an email from you re my question Number 13956 and I want to make some inquiries re just the control board could you send me a email address as using the address that the email was sent to me keeps coming back.

    You can ask the question on this customer Service section. The questions on this section get answered immediately, or faster than our email service.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I have received an email from you re my question Number 13956 and I want to make some inquiries re just the control board could you send me a email address as using the address that the email was sent to me keeps coming back.

  • I am interested in using the Mach3 USB interface board. I was wondering if there was a way to run a torch height controller with this board for use with a plasma cutter, and if so do you know of any THCs that will work. Thank you.

    Yes, you can connect a THC, Torch Height Controller, with the Mach3 USB controller. The THC uses the inputs to determine if the z axis needs to move up or down according to the arc of the plasma torch. The THC connects its outputs to the inputs of the controller so the controller will be informed of the states of the plasma torch.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I am interested in using the Mach3 USB interface board. I was wondering if there was a way to run a torch height controller with this board for use with a plasma cutter, and if so do you know of any THCs that will work. Thank you.

  • I have the older discontinued USB breakout board. The y-axis no longer works and have traced it to the breakout board. Is there a replacement board that can use the same Planet CNC software running on Windows 10?

    No, we have gotten away from the planet-cnc boards as they have decided to not support our board with their software. You can use the Mach3 USB board as an alternative. You will be better off with Mach3 as a control software as this is widely used and supported.

    Mach3 USB board:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I have the older discontinued USB breakout board. The y-axis no longer works and have traced it to the breakout board. Is there a replacement board that can use the same Planet CNC software running on Windows 10?

  • mach3 freezes in the middle of a run, I don't get any message. I have press reset and then the jog buttons work. I have to reset the zero and start from the last line when the machine stopped. It happens mostly during the finishing part of the g-code file

    What interface board are you using? Typically, this will be an issue with the computer that MAch3 is installed. The only other component that may affect this would be the interface between the computer and the machine.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    mach3 freezes in the middle of a run, I don't get any message. I have press reset and then the jog buttons work. I have to reset the zero and start from the last line when the machine stopped. It happens mostly during the finishing part of the g-code file

  • Have you heard of the requirement to cut the Reset Enable trace on the Aruduino Mega for a Makerbot Thing-o-matic? Does this apply to the whiteAnt 3d printer? The trace on my Arduino board is definitely connected and I am experiencing issues with connectivity. Please advise.

    I have not hear of this. This cold be an issue with using later firmware, but I have not come across having to cut the trace for the reset enable on the Arduino board.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    Have you heard of the requirement to cut the Reset Enable trace on the Aruduino Mega for a Makerbot Thing-o-matic? Does this apply to the whiteAnt 3d printer? The trace on my Arduino board is definitely connected and I am experiencing issues with connectivity. Please advise.

  • I am looking at purchasing your 2.2 kw water cooled spindle. I'm assuming it comes with the VFD. I have a rotary phase converter in my shop. Are these spindles 3 phase? And if so, can I bypass use of the VFD and control the spindle speed by the CAM software instead? Or is the VFD an absolute necessity to use on the spindle?

    We don't have experience running a spindle directly from a rotary phase converter, unfortunately. The fear that I have is the control of the voltage and current to the spindle and how that relates to the coil winding for each phase. If your rotary phase converter can operate within these tolerances (which need to be known), then I don't see the problem, but the spindle will exhaust its warranty by doing this.

    Regarding the CAM software, speed can be set for various machining operations, but the actual speed control will be controlled by the control program that interprets the g-code output by the CAM.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I am looking at purchasing your 2.2 kw water cooled spindle. I'm assuming it comes with the VFD. I have a rotary phase converter in my shop. Are these spindles 3 phase? And if so, can I bypass use of the VFD and control the spindle speed by the CAM software instead? Or is the VFD an absolute necessity to use on the spindle?

  • I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

    Considering enlarging the machine, might have its down sides do to the structural integrity of the scratch build machine. Primarily by making the width longer it will start to sag in the center, which will lead to having to redesign the gantry to be more structurally rigid to support the added length. Which then will increase the weight and height of your gantry to support the add size, which will always end up to creating a larger CNC.

    We usually do not recommend modifying the scratch build CNC, due to the very limited capabilities, and the structural design of the scratch build. We also do not recommend using longer than 48" ACME screw/leadscrew due to the increasing chance of warping and bending in the ACME screws/leadscrew in the given length.
    We do recommend modifying the CNC machines we sell to accommodate the added requests that some of our customers desire, but you will be limited to the width of the gantry with our machines.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

  • So I had my electrician hook it up as per your recommendations and nothing happens. Nothing lights up on the screen and nothing turns on. I have verified that the vfd that I was supplied is for single phase power and I have single phase power at my shop. It is a 220v vfd and I am supplying it with 220v. What do I do now? Is this vfd a bad one and do I need a new one?

    Was this VFD purchased from buildyourcnc.com and if so, what is the model number. If not, please provide the model number and we will attempt to determine the issue.

    Also, is this question related to a previous question you asked earlier? If so, please respond to that question with this new information.

    Many thanks.

    Additional Information:
    Yes it was purchased through your website, here is the number is YL600-2S-2K20

    Additional Information:
    Ok great. I will look into it.

    Is this related to the R S T and L1 L2 question that was recently asked?

    Additional Information:
    No

    Additional Information:
    It started with that but then once it was wired up it changed to this.

    Additional Information:
    Ok. Thanks. Please explain how you have the VFD wired to the 220v outlet.

    Additional Information:
    I have traced the black wire clear from the panel to the R terminal and the white wire to the T terminal and the ground to the E terminal. I have even used a multimeter on the terminals in the VFD while the wires are connected and the power is on, and I get 240V across the R and T terminals and 120 from R to Ground and from T to Ground.

    Additional Information:
    I still have not seen a response to my previous additional information. It has now been 5 days since then and I still have a non-functioning VFD, what should I do?

    Additional Information:
    My apologies. I didn’t see your latest wiring clarification response. Please connect the white (neutral) wire to the “S” terminal.

    Additional Information:
    So, i wired it up and now it does in fact power up. However, now it just gives me an ERR 02 code. What does that mean? the only manual that came with the VFD is all in Chinese. Do you have a book in english? Or a list of error codes?

    Additional Information:
    I have not seen a response to my previous comment. It has been a while since i have heard from you. What do i do next?

    Additional Information:
    Sorry about that. The Er 02 code in my manual says that there is an over-current at constant speed, over-current at deceleration or over-crrent at stop.
    The recommended actions in the manual says:
    1. Check whether the motor has got short circuit and whether the insulation of the output wires is good.
    2. Check whether the motor is blocked and whether there is a sudden change of mechanical load.
    3. Check whether there is a sudden change in he power supply voltage.
    4. Check whether the insulation of the output wires is good and whether the motor has got a short circuit.
    5. Extend the ramp down time.
    6. Replace it with an inverter (VFD) of larger capacity
    7. DE braking is too high. Decrease DC braking (this is only if you have a braking resistor connected).
    8. The inverter has failure. Please send it to the factory to repair.

    What I have done in the office is to check the resistance between the motor coils. The motor coils should have the same amount of wire winding on each coil. If there is a short circuit in this coil, the the resistance should be lower since there is less wire to travel. You can use a multimeter to check between pin 1 and 2, 1 and 3 and 2 and 3. The resistance should be generally the same.

    Additional Information:
    I worked threw all the other problems. the controller is now displaying Err 10. WHat does that mean.

    Can you provide a complete list of error codes. Or documentation to support this device you sold to me.

    id like to be able to integrate this thing into my growing business. i have been pretty unhappy so far with the lack of support. If you have any documentation, can you please send it to me. i cant be the only one having issues. Or even asking for help with these VFDs.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    So I had my electrician hook it up as per your recommendations and nothing happens. Nothing lights up on the screen and nothing turns on. I have verified that the vfd that I was supplied is for single phase power and I have single phase power at my shop. It is a 220v vfd and I am supplying it with 220v. What do I do now? Is this vfd a bad one and do I need a new one?

  • I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

    Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

    Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

    A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

    Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

    User response:
    Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
    Thank you.

    buildyourcnc response:
    On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

    Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

    In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

    There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

  • I bought Nema 24 motors and driver package with usb board. What do i need to have more speed? Cant even jog past 25 ipm without the motor stalling (not having enough torgue)

    We recommend checking the dip switch settings on your drivers, having the correct microstepping/amp settings along with the steps/unit will help the motors run as effective as possible.
    This is a default parameter that we use while we test our motors:
    Driver dip switch settings will be at a 1/16 microstepping and 2.7amp (11001100) for x/y-axis and the z-axis will be at 1/4 microstepping and 2.7amp (10101100).

    In planet-cnc with increasing the motor speed, you will have to modify the settings in planet-cnc (File/settings/setup) you will modify the initial speed, maximum speed, and the acceleration.
    X/Y-axis step/unit: 1422.22 initial speed:500 maximum speed:750 acceleration:25
    Z-axis step/unit: 1600 initial speed:100 maximum speed:300 acceleration:25
    The initial speed and maximum speed will have to be roughly tested and adjusted per application.
    Make sure to adjust the JOG slide bard underneath the axis controls on screen to about 750, to compensate for your x/y-axis adjustments. If left alone the speed will max out at the default setting.

    Here is a video tutorial to calculate the steps required depending on your mechanical linear motion components. (

    )

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I bought Nema 24 motors and driver package with usb board. What do i need to have more speed? Cant even jog past 25 ipm without the motor stalling (not having enough torgue)

  • At 3:29 in the video "blackToe version 4 2x4 step 9 0001" it shows you inserting a bearing into the hole that the x axis shaft exits the router. That hole is 3/8ths on my parts. No 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bearing came with my kit, but I do have a 5/8 OD, 1/4 ID bearing. Should I bore out the hole to 5/8 so I can insert those bearings?

    This turned out to be a side-effect of the "foot logo" now being bored entirely through the gantry legs. On first inspection this made the two legs identical. I didn't notice that the hole for the X axis axle was bored out to 5/8, but only on one side. Not too surprisingly, I installed them on reverse sides.

    Pulling the legs off and swapping the side they were mounted on fixed the problem. I would suggest adding a note to the building instructions page to avoid this annoying problem.

    On the good side, the X axis now rolls much more freely on its rails after un-mounting and re-mounting the legs.

    Additional Information:
    Good catch and thank you for the information. We will clarify this on the video.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    At 3:29 in the video "blackToe version 4 2x4 step 9 0001" it shows you inserting a bearing into the hole that the x axis shaft exits the router. That hole is 3/8ths on my parts. No 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bearing came with my kit, but I do have a 5/8 OD, 1/4 ID bearing. Should I bore out the hole to 5/8 so I can insert those bearings?

  • I installed the USB CNC Planet and got out of your USB controler $ 75 .Viska have linked to a video 'Party - 2.. X - running and y and z-axis does not work, it moves step motors and controller positions X -axis works, and Y and Z does not work.

    Recommend first test to check a non-working axis, is to connect the current working axis(ex X-axis) to either the y/z axis to test the actual board and wiring in other axis setup. If tests failed and working (x-axis setup) does not working in the new axis location, go the Planet-CNC/File/Settings/Axes and check if your current non-working axis setup requires a inverted pulse. Check box and test again.
    Next test if first fails, is to check continuity in your wires. A simple multimeter(ohm's) will work, just connect the positive and negative ends to one side of the same wire and if reading comes to 0.000, wire has continuity and if reads 0.L then there is a break in the wire and should be replaced.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I installed the USB CNC Planet and got out of your USB controler $ 75 .Viska have linked to a video 'Party - 2.. X - running and y and z-axis does not work, it moves step motors and controller positions X -axis works, and Y and Z does not work.

  • I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

    The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

    Additional Information:
    I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

    Additional Information:
    Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

  • I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

    The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

    Additional Information:
    I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

    Additional Information:
    Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

  • Its mentioned that your USB Breakout board is based on Planet-CNC's MK1 board. Planet-CNC on their forums mention that they've discontinued their MK1 because of a low buffer memory which caused jitters and jerks in the machine? Am I likely to face a similar problem with your board?

    Dealing with our USB BoB, it is really similar to the MK1 board, but is also loosely based on their DIY board as well. We have not seen that much of jitters or jerks, that we have noticed here while fabricating and testing the boards. We have not heard that many issues dealing with the board about abnormalities in running, unless we have not been notified in regards to customers who have used them under continuous use.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    Its mentioned that your USB Breakout board is based on Planet-CNC's MK1 board. Planet-CNC on their forums mention that they've discontinued their MK1 because of a low buffer memory which caused jitters and jerks in the machine? Am I likely to face a similar problem with your board?

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