This would totally work for that application. This cable carrier is used for any object that needs to move and carries some electrical or tubing within it. This cable carrier is great for cable management where you want to make sure the wires and tubes are in a position that you set, not where the wires and tubing want to go.

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[311] I am looking to use this type of thing with a pipe for theater. Where the pipe can be lowered and it would have electrical and signal cable inside. Is this good for that or should I look at something else?

This is a good video on how to do a vacuum table

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Do you have any videos or plans for how to make a strong table for a large CNC router? I saw the torsion box videos but would like some more guidance on how to build just a good table.

We currently do not sell any plan's for any of our machines, only for our scratch and build kit.

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Would you sell a kit that has all of the hardware and electronics with CNC plans for the table and gantry? Some of have access to a CNC temporarily (TechShop) but want one of our own.

You can find the datasheets to our motors be going to the the stepping motor category page https://www.buildyourcnc.com/category/nema and selecting the motor. This will bring you to the product page for the motor and all of the motor information will be found there.

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I would like to design my own CNC router around one of your electronics bundles, either the 3 Axis - Heavy Gantry or 3 Axis - All Large Motors. Do you have the data sheets for the motors so that I can use the dimensions in my model?

If the sensors are NC (normally closed) you can wire them in series. If the sensors are NO (Normally Open) you can still wire them to the same input, but the wiring needs to be in parallel (like a ladder). I have more information on the following video:

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[788] Thanks for the oportunity to ask, I am building a cnc and using npn closed sensors could you help me with the conection of these, do i still connect them in series if i use more than two in each axis. Also you mention that a stop switch should be connected grd and input to the controller would that be done after the 24v power supply. Thanks r

Depending on the type of motors and connection type, you could adapt your motors to work with our electronic packages, but you will receive additional motors since our kit is complete.

Now you will have to take into affect the actual motors you have and compare or get accurate replacements(Ex. our 425 oz motor(1/4" input shaft) will have to be same size or similar entry holes)

Your Controller board will be the major issue, due to its wiring and processing manner, you can view the connections for our breakout boards to compare with yours! (parallel: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/)(USB: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/)
Email(customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further help)

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I am looking at one of your electronics packages as a replacement for my excisting electronics. I have a old table top CNC that has a bad electronics pack, but the motors, and the mill are in good shape. could your system be adapted to work in this case?

All of our controller will allow two steppers on any of the axes. Multiple stepper motors and drivers on a single axis is more a function of the way the stepper motor drives are connected to the output pins of the controller. To connect two stepper drivers to a single axis, you need to connect the output pins (dir and step) to each of the two stepper motor drivers.

Consider the controller on cost, features and how they are connected to the computer.

Out lowest cost controllers are:

Mach3 USB board - Has good features and uses the USB from the computer as the main connection
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

Parallel Breakout - The computer generates the main signals and this board conditions the signals for the drivers. Although it requires the parallel port from older computer, the board has the most broad compatibility with control software out there including Mach3 and LinuxCNC.
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay

Highest cost but most feature rich:

Pokey57CNC - works with both Mach3 and Mach4
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

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I am looking for a controller for a 3 axis dual Y stepper cnc machine. If at all possible I would like a list of the parts that will be needed. I prefer to go with an ethernet setup vs a parallel port.

We are developing plans for our machine, but they are not completed yet. Please let me know if you would like to be added to our list of customers wanting plans. Thanks,

Additional Information:
If you have specific questions regarding CAD, CAM and Control, please add another question to the customer service and I will answer them in detail.

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How do I get started I would like to build a cnc router. Making the machine I can do, but I am weak on cad,cam and mach3. I am thinking about a 4’x4’. Do you have plans I can buy?

The CNC router build from book "Build Your Own CNC Machine" uses the basic electronics combo kit that includes three 425 oz-in motors is the kit designed for that machine. Here is a link to that electronics package: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/electronicsAndMotors-3axis-425-elcombo

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I AM BUILDING THE CNC DEMONSTRATED IN YOUR PUBLISHED BOOK 'BUILD OWN MACHINE', 2009. YOU SELL 3 AXIS ELECTRONIS COMBO, PARALLEL, FOR $390. IS THIS PACKAGE FROM BOOK. OR ARE THERE OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS. THANK YOU, HARY HOLSTEIN

Yes, you can connect a THC, Torch Height Controller, with the Mach3 USB controller. The THC uses the inputs to determine if the z axis needs to move up or down according to the arc of the plasma torch. The THC connects its outputs to the inputs of the controller so the controller will be informed of the states of the plasma torch.

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I am interested in using the Mach3 USB interface board. I was wondering if there was a way to run a torch height controller with this board for use with a plasma cutter, and if so do you know of any THCs that will work. Thank you.

The CNC router build from book "Build Your Own CNC Machine" uses the basic electronics combo kit that includes three 425 oz-in motors is the kit designed for that machine. Here is a link to that electronics package: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/electronicsAndMotors-3axis-425-elcombo

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I am building the CNC demonstrated in your published book 'Build Your Own CNC Machine', 2009. You sell the 3 axis electronis combo, parallel, for $390. Is this the package from the book. Or are there other recommendations. Thank you, Hary Holstein

You will need to look for the parameter that controls the run frequency. The frequency can be controlled bu the panel, external terminals, or the RS485 TX/RX terminals (UART protocol). You will want to change that parameter so it uses the panel. If you are referring to the maximum panel dial frequency is only allowing 200-300 rpm, then look for the parameters to control the frequency.

For 200 RPM:
Hz = 200/60 = 3.33 Hz

For 300 RPM:
Hz = 300/60 = 5 Hz

Conversion to RPM:
If you ever find yourself yearning to reverse-engineer the process, the formula is as follows:

RPM = Hz × 60

Look for values that match somewhere between 3 and 5 in your frequency parameters and replace them with 400 to give you 24,000 RPM max.

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[77] Hello. I’m interested in buying a water cooled spindle and VFD. I have an Avid Pro CNC and would love to control it using Mach 4 but I keep hearing it’s difficult to integrate. Also, is the water pump 120 or 240? I’d love any advice etc. eBay is a web of confusion with all of the options. Thank you.

Yes. The VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) has a large set of parameters that can be modified. This is typically called "programming" the VFD. The parameters can be accessed using the front control panel of the VFD.

Since the VFD is the mechanism that control the allowable current draw from the spindle, there is a parameter that assigns the motor rated current; however, it is probably better to match the rated current of the motor and "up" the circuit breaker current instead. If the current limit is set too low, then there is a possibility that the spindle will cause a current overload error on the VFD and cause the spindle to stop.

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With your 120v drive systems for your 2.2kw spindles, do you do something to limit the output to the spindle so that the current draw doesn't exceed the 80% limitations of a 20a circuit? I have a dedicated circuit for my router and I am considering a spindle upgrade, but I am curious how the configuration matches the math.

The USB interface only works with momentary switches unfortunately. If you have extensive knowledge of digital electronics, you can apply a receiver that uses a microcontroller and a transmitter with another microcontroller that produces the pulsing signal with the controls that you need.

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I would like to make a handheld remote for the USB CNC Board using a joystick instead of momentary switches. Could you suggest one that will work with your board.

You can use either 1" x 1" x 1/8", or 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 1/8" angle on the table sides. The BRAs should all be 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8". The Y ans Z axes should use the 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" angles.

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In the Build your own CNC machine book, You said you use 1 1/4" angle on the main table but 1" would be better. So my question is Should I use 1" angle on the main table (4' length) and 1 1/4" angle for the BRA's and other rails?

if you purchased the USB interface, you will need planet-cnc software rather than Mach3, and you will need a usb cable to connect the usb interface to the computer.

The blackToe 2x4 CNC Machine Kit with optional table will need wire to connect the electronics. Don't forget to get some end mills to use for cutting the intended material.


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If I purchase the [blackToe 2x4 v4.1 CNC Machine Kit - USB Electronics - Table Included] all I would need for this CNC to be fully operational is a laptop with mach 3 software and a router. Is this correct?

There is a multitude of methods to create the table and frame for the greenBull long-z CNC machine, as some of the illustrations are shown on our gB webpage.

The image with the hollow mid section, is a custom table that will take advantage of the entire long-z axis assembly. So the frame can be built in that manner, however the CNC table should have its 3/4" table top. So you can cut standard sheets of wood, aluminum, plastics, etc.

So that specific illustration is not needed, however if you plan on cutting at that depth then it will defiantly benefit you to have that frame as shown in the illustration!

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Can you please clarify what a long Z axis table should look like? I've built a frame that matches the dimensions on the GreenBull page but under long Z it says a custom frame is required made out of steel, which I did. But do I need to have the frame open like shown in the picture or is that just showing what the table looks like under the 3/4 material?

This turned out to be a side-effect of the "foot logo" now being bored entirely through the gantry legs. On first inspection this made the two legs identical. I didn't notice that the hole for the X axis axle was bored out to 5/8, but only on one side. Not too surprisingly, I installed them on reverse sides.

Pulling the legs off and swapping the side they were mounted on fixed the problem. I would suggest adding a note to the building instructions page to avoid this annoying problem.

On the good side, the X axis now rolls much more freely on its rails after un-mounting and re-mounting the legs.

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Good catch and thank you for the information. We will clarify this on the video.

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At 3:29 in the video "blackToe version 4 2x4 step 9 0001" it shows you inserting a bearing into the hole that the x axis shaft exits the router. That hole is 3/8ths on my parts. No 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bearing came with my kit, but I do have a 5/8 OD, 1/4 ID bearing. Should I bore out the hole to 5/8 so I can insert those bearings?

Depending on the type of motors and connection type, you could adapt your motors to work with our electronic packages, but you will receive additional motors since our kit is complete.

Now you will have to take into affect the actual motors you have and compare or get accurate replacements(Ex. our 425 oz motor(1/4" input shaft) will have to be same size or similar entry holes)

Your Controller board will be the major issue, due to its wiring and processing manner, you can view the connections for our breakout boards to compare with yours! (parallel: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/)(USB: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/)
Email(customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further help)

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I purchased the original instructions about 3 years ago and successfully built that device. Now I am looking at the 13X36 Bluechick base kit. Will all my original electronics work with the new kit? Is there a parts list that you could send me for the 13x36 Kit?