VFD settings........
1) To program the VFD, wire it up, plug it in. It takes several seconds to come to life.

2) Push the PRGM button to enter programing mode.

3 )Push the SET button. The display will read PD000.

4) If you push the SET button again, it will display the present setting of PD000.

5 )By pushing the up or down arrows, you can change the setting to whatever it needs to be. (This is just an example. PD000 needs no changes)

6)Push the SET button again to lock in the setting of PD000 and advance to the next number, in this case, PD001.

7) Push the SET button and it will display the present setting of PD001. Again, use the up and down arrows as necessary to set PD001, then push SET again to lock it in.

Note: You can also scroll through the PD numbers with the up and down arrows.

8) make all settings this way.

9) by pushing the SET button you can scroll through the settings. First push of SET moves to the next number, second push displays it's setting, third push moves to the next PD number.

Note- If you take too long, it will leave the programing mode on it's own. If it does, just push PRGM again to return to programing mode. Then press SET and continue what you were doing.

10) Start with PD013. Set it to 1, which returns the settings to the factory settings.

11) Then set PD005 to 400, PD004 to 400, and PD003 to 400 IN THAT ORDER.

12) Then set the following: PD041=8, PD144=3000

13) Set PD209=50

That's it for the programing. You should get 24000RPM when you push RUN.

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I JUST RECEIVED A REPLACEMENT SPINDLE (2.2KW 220V). HOWEVER, WHEN ATTEMPTED IT USE THE NEW SPINDLE, WOULD ONLY REACH 1500 RPM. IS THERE SOMETHING NEED TO CHANGE ON CONTROLLER?

Did you install the Mach3 USB plug-in?

Make sure that you followed all of the steps and diagrams on the following page:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WORKS. I HAVE ALL STRUCTURE AND MECHICAL PARTS OF THE BLACKTOOTH CUTTER DONE. HOWEVER WHEN WIRE UP STEPPER MOTOR TO DRIVER. THAT MACH 3 USB CONTROLLER BOARD, TRY JOG MOTOR, WORKS! PREVIOSULY HAD PLANET CNC BREAKOUT HOWRVER, ONLY MOVED MOTORS IN ONE DIRECTION COULDNT CHANGE IT. ANY HELP WOULD BE APRECIATED

Does your breakout board (interface) have a relay? If so, you can connect one of the router/spindle's ac lines through the relay. The M3, M4 and M5 codes are used to control the router/spindle. Typically, the M codes are automatically added to the g-code regardless if you configure this in your CAM software. If you have the breakout board from buildyourcnc, you can go to the product page for the breakout board and the relay connection diagram and narrative is in the instructions on that page.

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WHAT IS THE MOST EASY WAY TO HOOK UP MILL IN THAT AUTOMATICALLY STARTS WHEN CYCLE STARTS, AND STOPS GCODE THROUGH?

Cooling is not as tricky as you might think. There is 3 ways to approach this, only 2 really matter for a low scale 40w setup. First one is the cheapest and easiest. The higher the temp of water the worse your performance will be, from what I understand anything in the 30C range is about the most tolerable it gets. Lower is better. But not frozen...from what I've been told a very experienced cutter, he found 8C was the highest power he achieved.

1. Use a 5 Gallon resovoir system which gives you a fairly large space of water to heat up before you need to tend to it. Add about a cup of anti-freeze to the mix of DISTILLED water. You don't want ANY minerals in the water that might build up in your system. The anti-freeze works to keep algae and other ickies from growing in your water.

2. Use a smaller resovoir system (or even closed loop) and install 1 or more radiators found in CPU cooling systems with 120mm fans attached. This will continously cool your water system to ambient room temperatures, but with a tiny resovoir it will be difficult to add things like ice-packs to drop the temps if the ambient is quite hot.

3. Using an industrial coolant system. Overkill and unless your cutting A LOT, this is a very expensive option to take. You can also explore the idea of Peltier cooling but it is extremely expensive electricity/BTU wise compared to an industrial cooler.

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BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ABOUT COOLING THE LASER OFF - IS YOUR SETUP LIKE MOST OTHERS NEED BUCKET OF DISTILLED WATER TO PUMP THROUGH MACHINE?

Whenever they are turned on, cell phones communicate at infrequent intervals with a nearby base station even when they are not being used for a call. This is necessary to tell the system where the user is in case a call should come in. Thus, even while they are inactive, the phones are a source of (very low) radiofrequency energy exposure to the user. Hands-free kits reduce exposure to a user by removing the phone from the vicinity of the head. There is no identifiable health benefit in using the kits, but there is no detriment either, and using them may increase a user's peace of mind. Contrary to a widely publicized report by a British magazine last year, the kits are effective in reducing exposure. (This is not necessarily true of other devices that can be bought to be used with phones.) In your case, the cell phone and hands-free kit are clearly an important link to the outside world and I would not hesitate in using them. There may be comfort issues with having the earpiece in place for a long time, but radiofrequency radiation exposure should not be a concern at all. The hands-free kits will reduce exposure below that which you would receive if the phone were kept close to your head. Kenneth R. Foster Professor, Department of Bioengineering

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DOES THE RADIATION ONLY EXIST WHEN I'M ACTUALLY MAKING A CALL, OR JUST ANY TIME PHONE ON?

Yes, it is ok if the thickness is plus or minus +/- about 2mm.

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is IT OK TO USE THICKER PLYWOOD (MATERIAL) to BUILD THE CNC MACHINE, BLACKFOOT, BLACKTOE?

Yes, you can use lubrication, like 3-in-1 oil to make it a bit easier. You will need to run it up and down to break it in.

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THE LEAD SCREW IS VERY HARD TO TURN. BACKLASH BUSHING SEEMS BE TOO TIGHT AND BINDING ON SCREW. DO IT NEED LUBRICATION OR DID DAMAGE NUT WHEN INSERTING SCREW?

Yes, that is highly recommended for all the reasons you can imagine. Say you were doing engraving, not surfacing the spoilboard will either exhibit some areas that have no engraving at all, or areas that have engraving that is too deep. If you are cutting completely through the material, then one end may be cut all the way through but the other end will not have a complete cut, or produce onion skinning on the bottom of the workpiece.

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DO NEED TO GET THE BIG PLANING BIT OR SURFACING AND GO OVER SPOIL BOARD MAKE SURE THAT IT IS PERFECTLY LEVEL IN RELATION ROUTER?

If you are located near Houston, Texas area you can stop by our shop. If you are not near us, you can check in our forums, and see if you can find someone in your area that has one of our machines, and would be willing to let you come see it in action.

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I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE IS A STORE OR SHOP WHERE CAN SEE THE PRODUCT AND BUY IT?

We are currently working on a relay board that will connect to USB breakout board, and the router/spindle for both the on/off function. Unfortunately we still do not have it completed or ready to be placed on our website, but it is in the final stages of testing. Please check back regularly for updated stock!

Here is a link to a tutorial for a DIY relay circuit:

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I AM PUTTING TOGETHER THE BLACKFOOT AND USING A PORTER CABLE ROUTER. CONFUSED ON HOW TO RELAY ROUTETR WITH USB BOARD. IS THERE ANOTHER SWITCH THAT GOES BETWEEN BOARD ROUTER SO PLANET CNC CAN TURN PERHAPS VACUUM OFF?

I have not come across this problem, but there may be USB, or firmware issues that you are experiencing. I would recommend going on the polabs website and using their support center (https://support.poscope.com/)and posing that question to them. Also, have you tried the ethernet port as an alternative to see if that helps?

Here is the response from an LLM:

Check USB Cable and Port: Start with the basics. Sometimes this error is due to a poor USB connection. Ensure you're using a high-quality, shielded USB cable and that it's plugged into a USB port directly on your computer, not through a hub. If possible, try a different USB port or a different cable to rule out any issues there.

Update Firmware and Software: Ensure that both your PoKeys57CNC firmware and the Mach4 software are up to date. Firmware updates for your PoKeys board might include optimizations or fixes that address connectivity issues.

USB Polling Rate: This error can also arise from the USB polling rate setting in the PoKeys configuration software. It might be set too high for your system's ability to handle it. Try lowering the polling rate and see if that resolves the error.

Computer Performance: Check your computer’s performance. If it’s running several heavy applications simultaneously, it might not be able to process signals from the PoKeys board fast enough. Try closing unnecessary applications or consider using a dedicated machine if your current setup is too taxed.

Mach 4 and PoKeys Plugin Configuration: Dive into the Mach 4 plugin configuration for PoKeys. Ensure that all settings are correctly configured as per the manual. Incorrect settings might lead to communication bottlenecks.

Connection Quality and Interference: Consider any potential interference sources near your CNC setup or computer. Electromagnetic interference from large motors, other electronics, or long cable runs can affect communication quality. Try rearranging your setup to minimize interference.

Consult Documentation and Support: If the issue persists, consult the detailed documentation provided by PoKeys or reach out to their customer support. They can offer more specific advice based on the latest product updates or known issues.

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I HAVE FOLLOWED YOUR YOUTUBE VIDEO ON SETTING UP THE POKEYS 57CNC BOARD BUT WHEN OPEN MACH 4 GET A ERROR MESSAGE CONNECTION IS TO SLOW

Yes, it is ok if the thickness is plus or minus +/- about 2mm.

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IT OK TO USE THICKER PLYWOOD (MATERIAL) BUILD THE CNC MACHINE, BLACKFOOT, BLACKTOE?

The blackTooth Laser cutter and Engraver can be built in a weekend. Take a look at the build instructions and try to determine if you feel you have sufficient capability to put together the laser system.

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HOW COMPLEX IS YOUR KIT TO ASSEMBLE, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY - HARD IT SETUP CONTROL THE LASER WITH MACH3?

These machines are inherently dangerous. Before the machine moves, the machine should be clear of any person by a dimension of at the distance of a persons reach plus a few more feet. This is the policies we institute in our shop and what is recommend to all of our customers. Treat these machines as you would treat any major power tool in the shop.

With that said, you can certainly add some protective parts, but still keep folks away even with those installed. I would use the gantry side to do all of the mounting of the protective parts. Consider using sheet metal that you can bend and make a simple installation right on the gantry side.

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THE CNC MACHINE IS UNSAFE WITH EXPOSED SPROCKETS THAT CAN DAMAGE FINGERS AND HAVE CLOTHING CAUGHT IN IT.

Try slowing your feedrate down and increasing spindle RPMs. End-mills will leave a poor finish if you go too fast. Make sure your cutting depth isn't too much. Maybe the endmill or cutter is blunt? Could it be the feed direction of the cutter? Some materials need to be fed in a certain direction.

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MOTOR GOING TWO DIRECTION WHEN JUST PUSH UP. IT WILL GO DOWN AND THEN GOES AGAIN UP WITH THE SAME BUTTON.

I WOULD CONSIDER USING A BOARD MADE OUT OF CLOTH AND RESIN AND IS USED IN ELECTRICAL AREAS AS AN INSULATOR. IT IS USUALLY A DARK RED/BROWN IN COLOR AND COMES IN DIFFERENT SIZES. IT IS VERY STRONG AND HEAVY. I DO NOT RECALL THE NAME OF IT, BUT POWER COMPANY LINEMEN HAVE ACCESS TO IT AS IT IS USED IN HIGH VOLTAGE AREAS.

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I FOUND A LINK FOR YOU TO SEE WHAT I AM DESCRIBING. HERE IS THE LINK.. www.electricalinsulationmaterial.com

Response:
Currently our machines are made out of MDO (Medium Density Overlay) plywood, and are used in the construction industry for cement forming. They come lightly coated for moisture protection. Some possibilities for protecting the machine could be:
Painting the structural parts with a oil based paint
Coating the structural parts with a protectant sealant (polyurethane)

Please try to avoid getting any coating or paints on the steel components.

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I WOULD BE USING THIS MACHINE IN FIJI. MDF DELAMINATES OVER TIME HERE. HOW PROTECT THE FROM DELAMINATION?

Yes, you can use a touch probe with our machines as it is really independent of the machine structure, mechanical components and motion electronics, for the most part. We don't currently sell touch probes, however, but standard touch probes for CNC machines will work fine.

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the bluechik - IS there a 3D Touch Scanning to scan in present made items ?

If you remove the dust shoe, you should be able to reach the collet to remove the end mill.

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DO HAVE TO REMOVE THE PORTER CABLE 892 ROUTER EVERY TIME CHANGE BIT?

Hour meter. This will tell you exactly how long your system has been 'on' giving you a more accurate bead on the length of your tubes life.

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WHAT CAN ADD TO MY BLACKTOOTH LASER CUTTER MEASURE THE TIME OF USE?