The 8 wire motors need to be wired in bipolar parallel configuration. The wiring is as follows: Red and Blue to A+, Yellow and Black to A-, White and Brown to B+ and Orange and Green to B-. To find the wiring for the 4 wire motors, the wiring is Red to A+, Orange to A-, Blue to B+ and Green to B-.

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I have constructed the cnc router machine as shown in woodsmith magazine. I have purchased the 3 Nema stepper motors. The one larger motor has 4 wires, as do the other two. However, on the schematic, the Z, and Y axis motors indicate 8 wires each. Did I go wrong, or are there different Nema 23 motors?

In all CNC electronics configurations, you will need the motor paired with its own driver.

If two motors/drivers are intended for a single axis and the motors need to turn at the same rate and in the same direction, then the two drivers for these motors should be connected to the same signal wires from the breakout board (step (CP) and direction (CW)) signal wires.

If the motors need to turn in opposite directions, then either one driver will need to have the direction signal inverted, or resolve the opposite direction through a change in the mechanical drive train (i.e. flip the rack on a rack and pinion configuration, or in a roller chain setup, have the chain ride along the opposite side of the drive sprocket).

How do I go about purchasing a redleaf system with 4 drivers, where the (y) and (a) driver are connected to the same signal from the breakout board? I'd also need them to rotate in opposite directions.

The redLeaf webpage contains a purchase option for an extra motor and driver. We can setup the redLeaf system uniquely so it conforms to your application (i.e. motors running in opposite directions).

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I've built a machine where the y axis has (2) 425oz motors, x axis has (1) 425oz. motor, and the z axis also has (1) 425oz motor. Would it be better to purchase a redleaf system with 4 drivers? or can I just connect both y axis motors to the same driver for a total of 3 drivers?

The fact that you cannot move the motors with the keyboard serves as a clue to a couple possibilities.

- The software may not be communicating with parallel port. (One possibility may be that your step pins are not low active, or vice versa depending on your drivers).
- You may not be in the correct tab of Mach3. Make sure you are in the Program Run tab.
- The jog on/off button on the program run screen may not be lit (invoked).

This address below shows the complete troubleshooting for this type of situation. It will show how to test each pin at the parallel port at the back of the computer and everything else associated with correctly wiring the electronics.

https://buildyourcnc.com/CNCElectronicsandWiring.aspx




Additional Information:
6 axis robot with Mach3 Card 6 Axis Motion Controller

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I have a home built CNC running Mach 3. I have power to all the motors and the breakout board but no movement when running g-code. I cannot even manually move the motors with the arrow keys or page up and down. It also has an integrated 120v receptacle showing an open ground. I don't know if all this is related.

Yes, the redLeaf plug-and-play CNC electronics can include a THC (Torch Height Controller) and motors of any size. The limit of the number of motors that this package can include is 8 motors in total.

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Will the redleaf package allow me to run a torch height controller and 2 nema 34 motors for my gantry? I would prefer to have motors on both sides of the machine with a heavy gantry

Since you mentioned there is a nasty smell, I'm wondering if there might have been a issue with the power supply. Can you email us your name for the order and specific voltage you are using for the redFly? at techsupport@buildyourcnc.com. Also I want to mention if you have the USB cord plugged in to the redFly if it has the parallel interface board?

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When I first hooked up my redFly and was manually testing all the axes, everything was going well, then my Y axis stopped working all together, and now my X and Z have stopped also and my redFly has a nasty smell coming from it and none of the stepper motors seem to be getting power.

Modifying the Z-axis to accommodate a larger motor will be a worth while task and is possible, however we have not calibrated the z-axis therefore using the 1600 Steps-per inch in the motor tuning on our machine in our shop. We have not noticed any significant depth increments from not calibrating the z-axis but only from zeroing the z axis too close to the material. Also in your design did you specify the actual depth and the length of tool (end mill/ bit) that you are using?

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I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Not sure what you mean by the statement "I don't know when you answer". Please explain. I answer all of the incoming emails until my inbox is completely empty and all phone calls to the company go straight to my cell phone and I answer all of the calls, and if I don't answer, I call back immediately.


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I just searched my email and found no emails with your email address associated with the email listed with this question. I cannot answer questions if no correspondence was provided by you.

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Please send an email, I am giving up on buying a machine from you because I don't know when you answer. I was asking about getting just the working parts and rails sent to Fiji. You sent an answer and some questions, but I have no way of knowing if you responded again.

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

The 12V power supply has 3 terminals for AC in: N, L and earth ground. The output of the 12V power supply has 2 DC + and - terminals. Cut the connectors off of the ends of the fan and pump wires. Strip the red and black wires of both units. The fan will connect to the 12V power supply red to the + and black to the -. The pump will connect in the same way, but the white is not connected.

If you have a pump that has a grey and black wire on the large connector, the grey is the 12VDC V+ wire and the black wire goes to the V-. The extra wire does not need to be connected.

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I'm trying to hook up the Spindle Cooling Kit with 12VDC Power Supply. I have all the tubes plumbed but can't figure out how to hook up the wires. The power supply you sent only has 2 AC input and 2 DC output screws. The fan has 2 wires and the pump has three and both have a JST connector. How do I wire them in?

We can configure the redLeaf or redSprout to control the motor of a 4th axis. The driver we use for the motor on the 4th axis is our standard 3.0 amp driver.

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If I purchase the Heavy Duty redleaf system (651 oz-in motors) and your 4th Axis Tail Stock setup will you configure the 4th axis to the computer? Your site states the 4th axis add on is "for a total of 4 axes 425 oz-in motors only"

If you are using Mach3, the setting for the input pin 10 may be enabled as a default for use with the Emergency Stop. If there is no emergency stop on that pin, the reset will trip every time.

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I have the redleaf system for my black toe machine I have wired my limit switches in series NC after setting up in mach 3 I still get limit switch tripped after apply and ok setup can only run if I disable what am I doing wrong

We may be able to source those motors. Curious, the 6000 oz-in motor is pretty big. Do you mind explaining the application of the CNC machine and the structure that would require the large motor?

Additional Information:
The largest motors we can offer is 3900 oz-in without any mechanical help. 6000 oz-in can be resolved by mechanical means as an alternative.

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I am converting a 12x36 lathe over to CNC, I am interested in a 2 axis kit. I would love one stepper motor to be no smaller than 1200oz. , and another at 6000z. Is this something that you could offer? I have two other cnc machines but this is my first converstion on my own.

If you are using Mach3 do you have your hotkeys set up correctly?

Additional Information:
The office was closed on the weekends and during Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Holiday.

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I got my Blackfoot 4.3 built. Hooked it to the Redleaf and when testing the axis controls Im able to move the X axis using the Right arrow key, but unable to move it with the left key. I have no control on my Y axis. Tried calling for tech support and recieve voicemail 2 days in a row after a few calls each day.

The digital signal portion of the CO2 laser tube power supply has various terminals for signal power, signal gnd, laser intensity and engaging the laser (turning it on or off). The TL and TH are triggers to turn the laser power on or off. These may be labeled L or H on some laser power supplies. You can use either TL/L, or TH/H to control the laser.

If you use the TL or L terminal to control the laser:
If a low signal (gnd) is present at that terminal, the laser will turn on. If a high signal (5v) is present, the laser will turn off.

If you use the TH or H terminal to control the laser:
If a high signal (5v) is present at that terminal, the laser will turn on. If a low signal (gnd) is present, the laser will turn off.

You should first test the control signal from the interface with a multimeter to make sure the laser will be controlled correctly before powering the laser power supply

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On the blacktooth machine wiring diagram for parallel breakout a wire goes from 6 on the BOB to TL on the laser power supply. My power supply has an"H" followed by a "L". Which is correct? I've connected to the "L" but the laser appears always on.

We just received our new inventory of motors and that specific stepper motor ski came back with only one shaft. I’m not at the office to look at this inventory, so if that is true, they will all be single shaft. We may have other stepper motors with included rear shafts, but I will have to see on Monday.

If I don’t have the double shaft, we will provide a refund upon receipt of the motors. My apologies for this error.

Additional Information:
Hi, I'm sending these motors back today. As I understand you, you might have some motors from the previous lot still in stock, and these would be double shaft but otherwise you don't have any and won't be getting any. If you do have two double shaft versions of this motor please send them; if you don't have two of them please let me know--today if possible--so I can start looking elsewhere. Thanks, Ted Armen

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we just received two nema 11 stepper motors per our order--USR2-2, however they are single shaft, we need double shaft, I thought that's what we ordered. We're sending them back, let me know if you do have the double shaft version and I'll try again to order them. I notice the model number on the motor ends in "A", where the packing slip shows "B".

it is possible to install 2 motors on a single axis but you will require another driver and motor, but wire it directly to the same pins on your breakout board. Also the orientation of your motor since it is opposite side of the original so getting it to move accordingly to the original motor it will need to be orientated correctly. The slight shift could be the cause of the rod not being completely flat where the set screws are suppose to tighten the sprocket to the rod, so sanding it to a flatter surface might fix the shift in directions.
Currently do not have a kit or schematic available.

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Hello, I have a BlackToe 2 x 4 machine. I was wondering if it could be beneficial, or even possible to install two motors on the x-axis (one one each chain drive sprocket). I am noticing a slight shift in the gantry with each reversal of direction. If so, do you have a kit or schematic for this? Thanks

This is most likely a wiring issue. I would disconnect all of the power to the drivers and reconnect one at a time to isolate the problem.

Additional Information:
that was not helpful. I already did that way before submitting this question. there are not that many wires here and I have already rewired this a few times. I actually think its a software or interface board issue because it does work sometimes but then trips (possibly a amperage / voltage issue) I am using the interface board that has a parallel port and usb for 5V. are there different settings that I need to setup?

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I'm using the big 651oz in stepper motor for X and Y and the smaller 325 for the z and X and Y keep tripping when I try to tune the motors on Mach3 but Z seems to work. I have to turn power on and off to reset....is this a wiring issue?

Take a look at these two videos that I created today on Instagram on the proper wiring of a relay to the Mach3 USB controller.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CMYGGBtj3cq/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CMYLvq9DXVK/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Don't forget to watch the initial video on the Mach3 USB outputs on the Mach3 USB product page (last video on that page):
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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Hi I am trying to activate Mach3 USB Controller Output Terminals to activate a plasma from a output relay. I have looked at the video and applied 24VDC to 24v and dcm and measured from 24v and out1 and get no voltage when activating torch on mach3. The output 1 or 2 does not work.