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Question #: 14139

Question: I recently wired my CNC machine with limit switches and tested them before mounting to the machine. They were configured and when tested worked great. After mounting them to the machine, they continued to register as triggered. The frame of the CNC machine is made of MDF so I don't think it is shorting off of the machine. Can you tell me what might be wrong?

Current Solution

We recommend using shield wire for wiring the limit switches.

Respond:

Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • I have the redleaf system for my black toe machine I have wired my limit switches in series NC after setting up in mach 3 I still get limit switch tripped after apply and ok setup can only run if I disable what am I doing wrong

    If you are using Mach3, the setting for the input pin 10 may be enabled as a default for use with the Emergency Stop. If there is no emergency stop on that pin, the reset will trip every time.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have the redleaf system for my black toe machine I have wired my limit switches in series NC after setting up in mach 3 I still get limit switch tripped after apply and ok setup can only run if I disable what am I doing wrong

  • I have a usb cnc driver board on your 1'x3' cnc and i cant get the z+ limit switch to stop the machine in the provided software. It registers the button but doesn't inhibit movement. inversly the button works when selected as '-' for negative movement.

    All USB boards, are tested and checked before shipment for all axis, and inputs. Here is a link with clear instructions on how to setup Planet-CNC (http://www.planet-cnc.com/faq/machine_setup/).

    Please check continuity and for any crossover disruption when wiring your board, try to wire each as cleanly and with out crossing any live power wires and or motor motion wires.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have a usb cnc driver board on your 1'x3' cnc and i cant get the z+ limit switch to stop the machine in the provided software. It registers the button but doesn't inhibit movement. inversly the button works when selected as '-' for negative movement.

  • I'm using Mach3. I have 2 limit switches on X, 2 on Y and 1on Z for retracted/home. I can go to diagnostics and see the switches/inputs working. But when I move with jog or gcode they have no effect. Also I can go right past the soft limits. I must have something turn off but I don't know what.

    Did you set them up as limit switches or home switches?

    Additional Information:
    Not sure where do I check that?

    Additional Information:
    Go to config, then ports and pins, then input signals.

    Additional Information:
    The limits are labeled x++, x— for example.

    Click the link to respond:
    I'm using Mach3. I have 2 limit switches on X, 2 on Y and 1on Z for retracted/home. I can go to diagnostics and see the switches/inputs working. But when I move with jog or gcode they have no effect. Also I can go right past the soft limits. I must have something turn off but I don't know what.

  • Its mentioned that your USB Breakout board is based on Planet-CNC's MK1 board. Planet-CNC on their forums mention that they've discontinued their MK1 because of a low buffer memory which caused jitters and jerks in the machine? Am I likely to face a similar problem with your board?

    Dealing with our USB BoB, it is really similar to the MK1 board, but is also loosely based on their DIY board as well. We have not seen that much of jitters or jerks, that we have noticed here while fabricating and testing the boards. We have not heard that many issues dealing with the board about abnormalities in running, unless we have not been notified in regards to customers who have used them under continuous use.

    Click the link to respond:
    Its mentioned that your USB Breakout board is based on Planet-CNC's MK1 board. Planet-CNC on their forums mention that they've discontinued their MK1 because of a low buffer memory which caused jitters and jerks in the machine? Am I likely to face a similar problem with your board?

  • I purchased limit switches from you mounted them on my machine and wire them to the breakout for using pin 12 and the ground on the breakout board, after a few minutes I got a message about a limit switch trip. Am I supposed to use the extra outport on the board instead of the ground?

    Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

    Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

    A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

    Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

    User response:
    Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
    Thank you.

    buildyourcnc response:
    On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

    Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

    In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

    There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

    Click the link to respond:
    I purchased limit switches from you mounted them on my machine and wire them to the breakout for using pin 12 and the ground on the breakout board, after a few minutes I got a message about a limit switch trip. Am I supposed to use the extra outport on the board instead of the ground?

  • I'm trying to test cnc with Mach 3 as it says in the book. When I send the g codes, nothing happens. I occasionally hear a bump from the machine, but there's no real rhyme or reason as to when it will bump. What could be wrong?

    If the machine is not moving when you use a control program to control the electronics, there could be a many reasons this could happen.

    First, make sure that you followed the electronics videos: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCElectronicsandWiring.aspx

    The computer sends pulses from the conmputer while the control program interprets the g-code. These puses from the computer should be received in the correct form from the breakout board, or interface. Make sure that the step low active is enabled if the pin is connected to the CP- (PUL-, or STEP-) and the 5v is connected to the CP+ (PUL+ or STEP?+) at the driver.

    Click the link to respond:
    I'm trying to test cnc with Mach 3 as it says in the book. When I send the g codes, nothing happens. I occasionally hear a bump from the machine, but there's no real rhyme or reason as to when it will bump. What could be wrong?

  • Hi, I have intention of purchasing your 1/2 inch precision lead screw set to build my CNC machine, could I have the schematic dimension of your 1/2 inch anti-backlash nut, bearing for the lead screw and the shim? Also is your 2.2kW spindle able to mill Aluminum and what is the accuracy?

    BYCNC response:

    Milling aluminum is no problem with our machines.

    Here is a video we recently did with our 4'x8' machine. The aluminum piece is about 1/4" thick: https://buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/tutorial-greenbull-aluminum-cutting

    The accuracy you will see from our our 2.2kW spindle is entirely dependent on the precision of your build, so it's not possible to say what level of accuracy you can achieve without an examination of the complete system. However, our spindles have a runout of less than .0001 in, which includes the collets that we sell. If you use a collet from another manufacturer, we cannot guarantee this TIR (Total Indicated Runout) dimension.

    For the dimension drawing of the anti-backlash nut, please contact us directly by phone or email to techsupport@buildyourcnc.com

    User response:
    I have emailed waiting for your reply.

    User response:
    Hi, I am still waiting for your email reply.

    BYCNC response:
    Your email has been sent.

    Click the link to respond:
    Hi, I have intention of purchasing your 1/2 inch precision lead screw set to build my CNC machine, could I have the schematic dimension of your 1/2 inch anti-backlash nut, bearing for the lead screw and the shim? Also is your 2.2kW spindle able to mill Aluminum and what is the accuracy?

  • I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

    Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

    Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

    A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

    Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

    User response:
    Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
    Thank you.

    buildyourcnc response:
    On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

    Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

    In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

    There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

  • HI, I HAVE INTENTION OF PURCHASING YOUR 1/2 INCH PRECISION LEAD SCREW SET TO BUILD MY CNC MACHINE, COULD THE SCHEMATIC DIMENSION ANTI-BACKLASH NUT, BEARING FOR AND SHIM? ALSO IS 2.2KW SPINDLE ABLE MILL ALUMINUM WHAT ACCURACY?

    BYCNC response:

    Milling aluminum is no problem with our machines.

    Here is a video we recently did with our 4'x8' machine. The aluminum piece is about 1/4" thick: https://buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/tutorial-greenbull-aluminum-cutting

    The accuracy you will see from our our 2.2kW spindle is entirely dependent on the precision of your build, so it's not possible to say what level of accuracy you can achieve without an examination of the complete system. However, our spindles have a runout of less than .0001 in, which includes the collets that we sell. If you use a collet from another manufacturer, we cannot guarantee this TIR (Total Indicated Runout) dimension.

    For the dimension drawing of the anti-backlash nut, please contact us directly by phone or email to techsupport@buildyourcnc.com

    User response:
    I have emailed waiting for your reply.

    User response:
    Hi, I am still waiting for your email reply.

    BYCNC response:
    Your email has been sent.

    Click the link to respond:
    HI, I HAVE INTENTION OF PURCHASING YOUR 1/2 INCH PRECISION LEAD SCREW SET TO BUILD MY CNC MACHINE, COULD THE SCHEMATIC DIMENSION ANTI-BACKLASH NUT, BEARING FOR AND SHIM? ALSO IS 2.2KW SPINDLE ABLE MILL ALUMINUM WHAT ACCURACY?

  • HI, I HAVE INTENTION OF PURCHASING YOUR 1/2 INCH PRECISION LEAD SCREW SET TO BUILD MY CNC MACHINE, COULD THE SCHEMATIC DIMENSION ANTI-BACKLASH NUT, BEARING FOR AND SHIM? ALSO IS 2.2KW SPINDLE ABLE MILL ALUMINUM WHAT ACCURACY?

    BYCNC response:

    Milling aluminum is no problem with our machines.

    Here is a video we recently did with our 4'x8' machine. The aluminum piece is about 1/4" thick: https://buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/tutorial-greenbull-aluminum-cutting

    The accuracy you will see from our our 2.2kW spindle is entirely dependent on the precision of your build, so it's not possible to say what level of accuracy you can achieve without an examination of the complete system. However, our spindles have a runout of less than .0001 in, which includes the collets that we sell. If you use a collet from another manufacturer, we cannot guarantee this TIR (Total Indicated Runout) dimension.

    For the dimension drawing of the anti-backlash nut, please contact us directly by phone or email to techsupport@buildyourcnc.com

    User response:
    I have emailed waiting for your reply.

    User response:
    Hi, I am still waiting for your email reply.

    BYCNC response:
    Your email has been sent.

    Click the link to respond:
    HI, I HAVE INTENTION OF PURCHASING YOUR 1/2 INCH PRECISION LEAD SCREW SET TO BUILD MY CNC MACHINE, COULD THE SCHEMATIC DIMENSION ANTI-BACKLASH NUT, BEARING FOR AND SHIM? ALSO IS 2.2KW SPINDLE ABLE MILL ALUMINUM WHAT ACCURACY?

  • hi, I atacched a laser system to my modified book machine. it worked fine for a few trials but for some reason has lost power and is not cutting through any more, it does engrave thou. what can I check for? I´ve tried everything I can think of.
  • Many moons ago (when we were all a lot younger) you offered an export plan that consisted of various combinations of hardware/electronics and SketchUp of the CNC machine. Do you still offer SketchUp of your projects? I bought the new BlueChick and would like to build a roll-around cart for it. I might also wish to make modifications so a SketchUp would be most helpful.

    We did give out the plans for our machines many moons ago, but a few winters back we had to cease this practice as the night was young and full of terrors. Unfortunately we no longer offer the .dxf files or g-code files for any of our CNC machines.

    To build a roll cart for your blueChick, check out the similar cart we created for our blackTooth laser. (https://buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/Tutorial-sketchup-fabrication-fabricate-cad-cam-dxf).

    Click the link to respond:
    Many moons ago (when we were all a lot younger) you offered an export plan that consisted of various combinations of hardware/electronics and SketchUp of the CNC machine. Do you still offer SketchUp of your projects? I bought the new BlueChick and would like to build a roll-around cart for it. I might also wish to make modifications so a SketchUp would be most helpful.

  • I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

    The 5x10 greenBull base kit comes with the structure, hardware, and electronics for motion control. In order to have a fully functional CNC you will need a table base for your machine, a spindle or router to handle your cutting applications, end mills (bits) for cutting, CAD, CAM and CNC software, and a computer. There are also accessories you can add such as limit switches, emergency stops, and cable carrier for cable management. If you are looking for more information or a formal quote please contact sales@buildyoucnc.com

    Click the link to respond:
    I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

  • How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

    Decreasing the speed of acceleration in the cutter? Meaning of your router/spindle?, To modify the speed of a router will be going to the router itself and modifying the speed, but if a spindle is being used modifying it will be done either manually in the VFD (VFD Setup:
    Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
    Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
    Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
    Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequency - Hz)
    Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
    Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
    Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
    Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
    Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
    Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
    Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
    Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution))<- make sure these are your settings in the VFD. If the spindle is wired to the breakout board and is working through Mach 3 then the modification will be done in your CamBam/Feed rate settings.

    Click the link to respond:
    How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

  • Hello - I am having trouble understanding the instructions for the wiring of the Blacktooth CNC machine, especially the last sentence in instruction 2. Is there a circuit diagram somewhere? Another part of the instructions refers to a wiring diagram at the "end of the instructions". I can't seem to find this. Hope you can help...cheers

    You can find the wiring diagrams for the blackTooth on step 105 and 106 on the list of instructions on the blackTooth page. Step 105 pertains to the parallel breakout board and step 106 pertains to the USB interface board.

    Additional Information:
    wire size

    Click the link to respond:
    Hello - I am having trouble understanding the instructions for the wiring of the Blacktooth CNC machine, especially the last sentence in instruction 2. Is there a circuit diagram somewhere? Another part of the instructions refers to a wiring diagram at the "end of the instructions". I can't seem to find this. Hope you can help...cheers

  • I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

    Considering enlarging the machine, might have its down sides do to the structural integrity of the scratch build machine. Primarily by making the width longer it will start to sag in the center, which will lead to having to redesign the gantry to be more structurally rigid to support the added length. Which then will increase the weight and height of your gantry to support the add size, which will always end up to creating a larger CNC.

    We usually do not recommend modifying the scratch build CNC, due to the very limited capabilities, and the structural design of the scratch build. We also do not recommend using longer than 48" ACME screw/leadscrew due to the increasing chance of warping and bending in the ACME screws/leadscrew in the given length.
    We do recommend modifying the CNC machines we sell to accommodate the added requests that some of our customers desire, but you will be limited to the width of the gantry with our machines.

    Click the link to respond:
    I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

  • I have a lead screw machine I built from the book plans (i know, ancient history) and I'm thinking of converting the X and Y axis to rollerchain. Assuming I can configure my controller appropriately, is there anything I should buy besides chain, drive cog, tension cog and mounting hardware?

    You want to make sure that the motors will be able to provide the necessary torque since there will not be mechanical advantage using roller chain. You will need a way to fix the chain to each end. I like to use #4 - 3/4" screws and #4 nuts. You will need a drive sprocket for each axis and a couple idler sprockets on each axis to serve as tensioners and guiding the roller chain.

    Additional Information:
    OK cool. I have NEMA 24 steppers rated 425 oz-in. Is there some rule of thumb I can use to guess if that's enough? I'm not planning to push against hard stock material.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have a lead screw machine I built from the book plans (i know, ancient history) and I'm thinking of converting the X and Y axis to rollerchain. Assuming I can configure my controller appropriately, is there anything I should buy besides chain, drive cog, tension cog and mounting hardware?

  • Hello, I have a Greenbull almost ready to work and I am trying to calibrate the machine, what are the specifics values as steps per units (SPU), ….. to load in planet cnc software to do the best accuracy as possible. My currents values are standar: Steps/unit 200.000, int speed 0.00, Maximun speed 0.00 and Acceleration 15.000 for each axes. Thank for your help.

    The greenBull uses roller chain for the X and Y axes. The drive sprockets have 14 teeth and the pitch (from crown to crown, or pin to pin measurement) is 1/4" (0.25 inches). You will need the pitch circumference which is: 14 * .25 = 3.5 inches. We need to find the steps per inch (steps/inch). We now have the inches for one full revolution. Now we need to find the number of steps for one full rotation of the motor. For these sprockets, I find that 16 microsteps is best. Make sure that the drivers for the X and Y axes are set to 1/16 microstepping. The motor have 200 steps per rotation, so the total steps with 1/16 microsteps is 200 * 16 = 3200. So the steps/inch is 3200 step / 3.5 inches = 914.286.

    The velocity should be around 400-1000. Test various values for velocity and make sure that no stalling happens. Start with a very low acceleration and determine it's top velocity. When the top velocity is found, reduce the velocity to give you a good factor of safety. Then increase the acceleration until it stall at a low velocity and then reduce the acceleration to give you a good factor of safety for acceleration.

    Do the same thing for the z-axis. The lead screw pitch circumference is 0.5 inches (2 turns per inch or 5starts/10tpi).

    Click the link to respond:
    Hello, I have a Greenbull almost ready to work and I am trying to calibrate the machine, what are the specifics values as steps per units (SPU), ….. to load in planet cnc software to do the best accuracy as possible. My currents values are standar: Steps/unit 200.000, int speed 0.00, Maximun speed 0.00 and Acceleration 15.000 for each axes. Thank for your help.

  • Hello, I have a blacktooth laser cutter, the machine has 10hrs of work, suddenly in the middle of a job the laser beam lost all power, I can still se the purple plasma beam but with no power or intensity, the tube is fine, water is running through and there is no arcing to the chasis or some other part. I think it might be a faulty PS how can I test it, Do I have a warranty on it?

    To verify, you are still getting the laser tube to fire, but the laser beam is weak and cannot cut or engrave any materials correct?

    Have you checked your tube's tungsten post terminals to make sure they are getting good contact?
    The Laser tube and laser power supply both have manufacture warranty, please email customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further assistance.

    Click the link to respond:
    Hello, I have a blacktooth laser cutter, the machine has 10hrs of work, suddenly in the middle of a job the laser beam lost all power, I can still se the purple plasma beam but with no power or intensity, the tube is fine, water is running through and there is no arcing to the chasis or some other part. I think it might be a faulty PS how can I test it, Do I have a warranty on it?