The 5x10 greenBull base kit comes with the structure, hardware, and electronics for motion control. In order to have a fully functional CNC you will need a table base for your machine, a spindle or router to handle your cutting applications, end mills (bits) for cutting, CAD, CAM and CNC software, and a computer. There are also accessories you can add such as limit switches, emergency stops, and cable carrier for cable management. If you are looking for more information or a formal quote please contact sales@buildyoucnc.com

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I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

I would not recommend slaving an axis using the method of taking an additional axis from the USB interface. Instead, wire both drivers to a single axis on the USB interface. This will insure perfect signal output to both drivers. If you requre the motors to spin in opposite directions, simply wire one of the motors to the driver reversing the coil A and B connections, or use a hex inverter (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/Tutorial-Two-Motors-Spinning-Oppositely-On-Single-Axis).

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I purchased a USB Breakout board, motors and drivers, paid for CNC USB Controller Software and I CAN NOT "Slave" an axis, but there is an option to do that. The moment I connect USB Breakout Board "Slave" option becomes shaded and I can no longer select it (becomes not functional). What is going on? Need help asap. Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

Your question caused me to make a quick video to understand how the pokeys57CNC controller works with a THC.

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[596] Would you help with the Hook up and the Configuration and whether it is in the Plugin or mach 4 control configuration that needs to be set. I decided to use the ultra fast encoders connector pin #8, 12 and 13 for Arc ok, UP and Down. Please advise what setting to set to make it all work. Thank you very much for your help!

Make sure to check your supply lines. Air flow is especially important.

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hi, I atacched a laser system to my modified book machine. it worked fine for a few trials but for some reason has lost power and is not cutting through any more, it does engrave thou. what can I check for? I´ve tried everything I can think of.

Not a problem. The ALM is rather self-explanatory as this is a closed-loop stepper motor and driver that you are using. The ALM (alarm) is a signal that is used to tell the driver/controller that the motor is not in the same condition that the driver expects. In a closed-loop system, the motor has an encoder that tells the driver exactly how many steps that it turned, and if this value does not coincide with the driver's outputted number of steps, and within a specified amount of time, the alarm will trigger so the system can stop and the workpiece can be salvaged.

The MF is simply a signal that tells the driver that there is impending direction and step pulses coming. If the MF signal is high, then that is similar to an enable signal.

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Hello I recently read your site and have a question. I have a driver model DM2722A but I can't connect it to my usb controller due to the fact that the driver is not marked enable, but instead it is marked: mf-, mf +, alm-, alm +. I will be very grateful if you explain to me the meaning of the latter and tell me what should be related to "enable" Thanks in advance!

You can use any type of threaded rod, i.e. ACME profile, hi-lead, ball screw, etc. The only change you will need to make is the way the lead nut fastens to the nut mount on the machine. Lead nuts for these non-allthread screws typically have flanges with mounting holes, so the mounting of this type of nut is far better than the standard nut used in the book build.

These better screw options will also allow your machine to move faster and with less backlash.

https://buildyourcnc.com/item/mechanical-leadscrews-antibacklash-nut-!5-5-starts-10-tpi

https://buildyourcnc.com/item/mechanical-leadscrews-lead-screw-!5-5-starts-10-tpi

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Has anyone built the machine from the book plans and made substitutions for the store-bought threaded rod? I wanted to spend a bit more money to ensure smoother/faster/more accurate travel with the lead screws, but i am not sure what to use. Mcmaster Carr has quite a few Acme lead screw options, however the price varies drastically. Any input is appreciated.

Yes, here is the URL for the parallel breakout board that we sell:

https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay

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can I purchase just the parallel controller board? I purchased the usb option 4 axis combo and would like to also try the system with my parallel port computer. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated; my goal is to implement mach4.

Did you install the Mach3 USB plug-in?

Make sure that you followed all of the steps and diagrams on the following page:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WORKS. I HAVE ALL STRUCTURE AND MECHICAL PARTS OF THE BLACKTOOTH CUTTER DONE. HOWEVER WHEN WIRE UP STEPPER MOTOR TO DRIVER. THAT MACH 3 USB CONTROLLER BOARD, TRY JOG MOTOR, WORKS! PREVIOSULY HAD PLANET CNC BREAKOUT HOWRVER, ONLY MOVED MOTORS IN ONE DIRECTION COULDNT CHANGE IT. ANY HELP WOULD BE APRECIATED

I also place the controller very close to the drivers (on the back of the gantry). All of the cables are shielded. The only long cables are the mains power cables and the USB cable. The USB cable is shielded and contains active repeaters.

There is no problem putting all of the electronics in a box and using long cables to the motors. This is the way I did it for a very long time.

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Great site. I saw your videos of wiring the Mach3 USB controller. You place the drivers next to the Steppers. This means that you have very long leads to the USB Board? What about the placement of the controlling PC? Is it a problem to have the USB board, PSUs and Drivers in a control box and long leads to the steppers? Thank you.

In all CNC electronics configurations, you will need the motor paired with its own driver.

If two motors/drivers are intended for a single axis and the motors need to turn at the same rate and in the same direction, then the two drivers for these motors should be connected to the same signal wires from the breakout board (step (CP) and direction (CW)) signal wires.

If the motors need to turn in opposite directions, then either one driver will need to have the direction signal inverted, or resolve the opposite direction through a change in the mechanical drive train (i.e. flip the rack on a rack and pinion configuration, or in a roller chain setup, have the chain ride along the opposite side of the drive sprocket).

How do I go about purchasing a redleaf system with 4 drivers, where the (y) and (a) driver are connected to the same signal from the breakout board? I'd also need them to rotate in opposite directions.

The redLeaf webpage contains a purchase option for an extra motor and driver. We can setup the redLeaf system uniquely so it conforms to your application (i.e. motors running in opposite directions).

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I've built a machine where the y axis has (2) 425oz motors, x axis has (1) 425oz. motor, and the z axis also has (1) 425oz motor. Would it be better to purchase a redleaf system with 4 drivers? or can I just connect both y axis motors to the same driver for a total of 3 drivers?

If you are using Mach3 do you have your hotkeys set up correctly?

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The office was closed on the weekends and during Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Holiday.

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I got my Blackfoot 4.3 built. Hooked it to the Redleaf and when testing the axis controls Im able to move the X axis using the Right arrow key, but unable to move it with the left key. I have no control on my Y axis. Tried calling for tech support and recieve voicemail 2 days in a row after a few calls each day.

Can you tell me the model number for that VFD. Use the "Additional Information" for this FAQ to continue add this information and continue the dialog.

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Actually, it's the "submit response" button.

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It is the XSY-AT1. AT1-2200S

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Ok, let me check

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You purchased this VFD and spindle combo in April. Have you been using the VFD until now and it just failed? Or is this the first time you are trying to use the VFD? This will allow me to determine if this is a configuration problem or an electrical issue.

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According to the manual, P09 is the parameter needed to unlock the VFD if a value has been entered into P08, the password parameter. If the password value is entered into P08, you will need to enter the same password into P09 to see the value in P08 and access the other parameters.

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SOLUTION: If you do not remember the password that was entered into P08, then you can enter the value of 55555 into the P09 parameter and P08 will show the password. Take that value presented in P08 and you will be able to enter it into the P09 parameter and the VFD will be unlocked.

This customer tried the above instruction and he was able to unlock his VFD.

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I am trying to program my 220 volt VFD and it has locked me out. It keeps flashing and the only parameter I can change is P009. I also keep getting a Er 3 code which means input voltage out of parameters but the input voltage is correct. How can I get back to being able to adjust the parameters?

We did give out the plans for our machines many moons ago, but a few winters back we had to cease this practice as the night was young and full of terrors. Unfortunately we no longer offer the .dxf files or g-code files for any of our CNC machines.

To build a roll cart for your blueChick, check out the similar cart we created for our blackTooth laser. (https://buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/Tutorial-sketchup-fabrication-fabricate-cad-cam-dxf).

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Many moons ago (when we were all a lot younger) you offered an export plan that consisted of various combinations of hardware/electronics and SketchUp of the CNC machine. Do you still offer SketchUp of your projects? I bought the new BlueChick and would like to build a roll-around cart for it. I might also wish to make modifications so a SketchUp would be most helpful.

Can you send me a link to the digitizer you are using?

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Hi my names is Minh Truong I would like to said thank you very much for your video I got the system mach3 working fine but one thing I can NOT set and config the digitizer on the board IN4 I am not sure how to setup because in the Mach3 pin 14 for digitizer Please shoe me hoe to set it up for the digitizer.

Did you install the Mach3 USB plug-in?

Make sure that you followed all of the steps and diagrams on the following page:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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Absolutely nothing works. I have all structure and mechical parts of the blacktooth cutter done. However when i wire up the stepper motor to the motor driver. and that to the mach 3 usb controller board, and try to jog the motor, nothing works! I previosuly had the planet cnc breakout board, howrver, that only moved the motors in one direction and i couldnt change it. any help would be apreciated

We recommend using shield wire for wiring the limit switches.

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I recently wired my CNC machine with limit switches and tested them before mounting to the machine. They were configured and when tested worked great. After mounting them to the machine, they continued to register as triggered. The frame of the CNC machine is made of MDF so I don't think it is shorting off of the machine. Can you tell me what might be wrong?

That is a very loaded question that could be replied in so many ways. I will need a more specific question to help you. For instance, I have my machine moving in different directions, but I don't know how to make the machine move according to g-code instructions. Another question could be, I connected all of my electronics and the motors are not moving and I did all of the steps on the electronics video to troubleshoot the problem.

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I have a cnc router that was built from the book "Build your own cnc machine" by james kelley and patrick hood daniel.all the parts were purchased from your company.I have no clue how to work the machine and I need to purchase a spindle (or router) bits , softwear ect , I did mention I don't know how to use the machine !!! Thanks for your help Richard