If the gantry height is changed by, say 3 inches, then the z-axis front, rails and back (where the nut is mounted) needs to increase by 3 inches.

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Has anyone built the machine from the book plans and made changes to the Gantry to allow an increase in the Z-axis travel. If so, what dimensional changes need to be made besides increasing the height of the Z-axis pieces? I would imagine the gantry rail and sides have to be altered as well. Am i missing anything?

You want to make sure that the motors will be able to provide the necessary torque since there will not be mechanical advantage using roller chain. You will need a way to fix the chain to each end. I like to use #4 - 3/4" screws and #4 nuts. You will need a drive sprocket for each axis and a couple idler sprockets on each axis to serve as tensioners and guiding the roller chain.

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OK cool. I have NEMA 24 steppers rated 425 oz-in. Is there some rule of thumb I can use to guess if that's enough? I'm not planning to push against hard stock material.

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I have a lead screw machine I built from the book plans (i know, ancient history) and I'm thinking of converting the X and Y axis to rollerchain. Assuming I can configure my controller appropriately, is there anything I should buy besides chain, drive cog, tension cog and mounting hardware?

There are two main questions that we can answer with respect to motor torque and the mechanical advantage of lead screws, 1) What torque motor do you need to lift a particular weight, or 2) What maximum weight will my motor torque be able to lift.

This formula uses Newtons (N) as it's final unit. Use this with the included radius (R) to determine the torque. Newtons can easily be converted to lbs or ounces using online conversions.

Effort = Sf + (Load/(2 x pi x (R/p) x Se))

where:
p = pitch of the screw
Se = screw efficiency = Standard lead screw will be between 20% (.2) and 40% (.4)
Sf = static force. This is the force that is needed to start the movement. The number may be eliminated, but it is good to use a number in the 5 N to 20 N range.
Load = the expected load that the effort will need to carry (i.e., the router and the included axis assembly that the motor will need to lift)
R = radius of the lead screw


This formula is based on the "law of the machine"

The final effort amount with its unit of newtons and R will be the torque. For example, if the effort comes to 100 N (newtons) and the R is .5 inches, then you can assume that the effort is 50 N-in since it would take twice the effort to turn form the one inch mark from the center of the shaft.

Example:

Load = 90 N (20.2 lbs)
R = 1 inch since that is the length from the center of the shaft that the motor is rated
p = 1 inch / 13 = .08 inches

Effort = 5 N + (90 N / (2 x 3.14 x (1 / .08) x .2))
Effort = 5 N + (90 N / (6.28 x 12.5 x .2))
Effort = 5 N + (90 N / (15.7))
Effort = 5 N + (5.73 N)
Effort = 10.7 N = 2.4 lbs = 38.4 oz-in

I am putting the oz-in on the end because the formula considers the distance from the center of the shaft to be one inch.

Therefore, a 425 oz-in motor would be able to lift a 20.2 lb Router with its accompanying assembly. If the assembly and router is heavier, plug in the numbers and determine the effort required.

With a bit of algebra, the formula can be rewritten to find the load:

Load = (Effort - Sf) x (2 x pi x (R/p) x Se)

Another formula that does not consider friction at all:

Effort = (Load x p) / (2 x pi x R)

Lets see if we get similar results:

Effort = (20 lb x .08 inches) / (2 x 3.14 x 1)
Effort = 1.6 / 6.28 = .255 lbs = 4.08 oz-in

The results from both formulas appear to be very small because a 13 TPI screw will have enormous mechanical advantage.

It is evident that the first formula that does consider friction that we are loosely estimating is far more conservative than the second formula. Either way, even the most conservative formula shows that the 425 oz-in motor will handle very large weights. If you are using a lead screw with only two turns per inch, .5 inch pitch, you can determine the requirements with the first formula.

Example for a 10 TPI 5 start (2 turns per inch) lead screw:

Load = 90 N (20.2 lbs)
R = 1 inch since that is the length from the center of the shaft that the motor is rated
p = 1 inch / 2 = .5 inches

Effort = 5 N + (90 N / (2 x 3.14 x (1 / .5) x .2))
Effort = 5 N + (90 N / (6.28 x 2 x .2))
Effort = 5 N + (90 N / (2.512))
Effort = 5 N + (35.83 N)
Effort = 40.828 N = 9.18 lbs = 146.88 oz-in

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thank you so much

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how do i calculate torque of stepper motor if lead screw coupled to motor shaft and load applied by lead screw on plate is 100 kg by vertically

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Pls


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1m 16mmdiameter ball screws calculations


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What is the max load that 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors (spaced 2 feet apart, both will be pushing up on the same gantry) can lift while using a rod with the following specifications T8 OD 8mm Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm for each motor.

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thank you for the reply. I would be really good to know the calculation. The lead screw is 1/2" diameter with 13 TPI. Please provide the calculation for determing the maximum weight motor can handle on Z-axis on book build cnc. And one more question. If I am cutting 18mm MDF with 6mm cutting bit (so 6mm pass), what can be the maximum speed rate of cutting and spindle speed of router? thank you

Book build (scratch build), feedrates and recommendation.

Using standard allthread will provide around 20-30 ipm using 36 volts. Although it allows for a working CNC machine, the RPM of the spindle/router will need to spin at the lowest setting to provide the beat efficiency and life for the end mill at 1/4" cut diameter and higher. The speeds may be fine for smaller end mills.

If you would like faster speeds, you should change the lead screws on the CNC machine to the 1/2" 5 start 10 TPI which translates to 2 turns per inch which means, the stepping motor will not need to turn as fast to produce faster motion. That is to say, the stepping motor will only need to turn two revolutions for the machine to travel one inch and with the allthread, the stepping motor will need to turn 13 times to reach one inch.

Link to the lead screw and other mechanical parts needed:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCMachineMechanicalParts.aspx

To change the lead screws you will need (for each axis):

1. The lead screw for that axis.
2. Two 1/2" collars to keep the lead screw axially stable.
3. One Antibacklash nut.

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Since I am using normal all-thread lead screw 13 TPI 1/2" for the book build cnc, what can be the maximum feed rate of machine and how can I change the mechanical setup in mach 3? I am using 1/4" steel carbile endmill with 2 flutes and router is 2 HP with variable speed

The 5x10 greenBull base kit comes with the structure, hardware, and electronics for motion control. In order to have a fully functional CNC you will need a table base for your machine, a spindle or router to handle your cutting applications, end mills (bits) for cutting, CAD, CAM and CNC software, and a computer. There are also accessories you can add such as limit switches, emergency stops, and cable carrier for cable management. If you are looking for more information or a formal quote please contact sales@buildyoucnc.com

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I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

Make sure to check your supply lines. Air flow is especially important.

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hi, I atacched a laser system to my modified book machine. it worked fine for a few trials but for some reason has lost power and is not cutting through any more, it does engrave thou. what can I check for? I´ve tried everything I can think of.

Pulsed radiation fields are encountered in the vicinity of electron Linacs (McCall and Ipe 1988). Most therapy Linacs are operated at repetition rates varying from 100 to 400 pulses per second with pulse widths of about 1 to 10 microseconds (AAPM 1986). The fraction of operating time (that is, pulse width x repetition rate) during which the beam is on is called the duty factor. For example, the duty factor for an electron Linac operating at 100 pulses per second with a pulse width of 10 µs is 0.001. These small duty factors impose severe limitations on the radiation detection instruments. The peak intensity is equal to the average intensity divided by the duty factor, which in this case will be 1,000 times higher than the average intensity. An instrument that normally responds well to the average dose rate spread out evenly in time will not be able to cope with such a high dose rate. The intense photon pulse usually overwhelms any active detector (that detects particle events electronically). Instruments which have long dead times, such as the GM and proportional counters, tend to become saturated in such fields and only count the repetition rate. Thus GM counters should not be used to perform radiation surveys outside exterior walls of the Linac room. Scintillation survey meters may become nonlinear at higher dose rates because photomultipliers cannot handle the high instantaneous currents.Ionization chambers are less influenced; however they must be operated with adequate voltage to overcome recombination losses. There are several commercially available ionization chambers that can be used for Linac radiation surveys

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THE ROOM HAS THICK CONCRETE WALLS PLUS LEAD SHEETS. LEVELS OF EXPOSURE I AM GETTING WITH LUDLUM MODEL 3 SURVEY METER (SM) A 44-9 PROBE ARE BETWEEN 0.1-3 MR/H IN WORST CASE (HIGHER ENERGY AND POINTING BEAM TO WALL). SM WAS CALIBRATED 137CS MY NOMINAL 18 MV (MEAN ~5 MV). WHAT KIND INSTRUMENT MORE ADEQUATE USE FOR THIS TYPE BETTER RESPONSE?

The settings that will have to be change will be your steps per inch in motor tuning (mach 3), or settings/axes(planetCNC). But we do not have the actual numbers/specs that will fit your 10 TPI 5 start lead screw, here is a tutorial video which explains how to get the exact numbers you need! (

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On the Book Build: I'm changing the 13TPI 1/2" lead screw with the 1/2" 10 TPI Acme screw with the anti backlash nut. This is for the Z axis only. What should I know about installing it and what are the numbers I need to plug into the motor tuning area.

Consider the loads on each axis when choosing appropriate stepper motors. If your holding torque is maxed out at roughly 16oz/in (1lb/in), then you could use the NEMA 11 or 14. Also consider the shaft sizes and current ratings when choosing drivers that pair with the motors.

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I am planning to build a scratch CNC machine to do rotary engraving on writing pens. Can you recommend the parts I would need? I'm thinking NEMA 14 (11?) and 3/8" acme rod. Not sure which linear motion to use. I have an old lathe to use for the 4th axis.

Decreasing the speed of acceleration in the cutter? Meaning of your router/spindle?, To modify the speed of a router will be going to the router itself and modifying the speed, but if a spindle is being used modifying it will be done either manually in the VFD (VFD Setup:
Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequency - Hz)
Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution))<- make sure these are your settings in the VFD. If the spindle is wired to the breakout board and is working through Mach 3 then the modification will be done in your CamBam/Feed rate settings.

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How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

Since you are using a ball screw which has a very low coefficient of friction to move your heavy gantry, you will have no problem at all using the 651 oz-in motors, and you are not going against gravity, so if you use screw jack formulas that use the low of the machine, you will not need to use weight which is (mass x gravity 9.8 m/s/s). Instead, it will be more susceptible to the inertia of the gantry and if you have any problems, you can compensate by lowering the acceleration.

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Excellent, thank you for your help.

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How do I go about ordering the redleaf system you have discussed? IS there any lead time? Thanks
again

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My machine gantry weighs about 250lbs, I am going to be using 2 steppers to move it. I am using 2510 ball screw and the steppers will be direct drive, will a pair of 651oz steppers be enough? I will be mostly working with aluminum so my feed rates will be low I just want to make sure I dont loose steps due to not having enough power.

That is a very loaded question that could be replied in so many ways. I will need a more specific question to help you. For instance, I have my machine moving in different directions, but I don't know how to make the machine move according to g-code instructions. Another question could be, I connected all of my electronics and the motors are not moving and I did all of the steps on the electronics video to troubleshoot the problem.

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I have a cnc router that was built from the book "Build your own cnc machine" by james kelley and patrick hood daniel.all the parts were purchased from your company.I have no clue how to work the machine and I need to purchase a spindle (or router) bits , softwear ect , I did mention I don't know how to use the machine !!! Thanks for your help Richard

The drivers have quite a bit of protection, so you probably won't ruin anything. You motors are jumping and that is just the motors engaging from getting power from the power supply.

There could be many reasons your motors don't turn. Consider these troubleshooting tips:

- If you are using our parallel breakout board, make sure that the step pins are set for active low (config -> Ports and Pins -> Motor Outputs -> the steps pins should be enabled and set active low)

- The parallel breakout board is powered (connect the USB to the computer using a USB cable)

- In Mach3, make sure you have jog enabled (a little green button at thelower middle of the page in the program run screen).

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DS26

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If I wired my stepper motors incorrectly what parts of the electronics will be ruined? When I turn on the power, my motors jump like they are supposed to but for some reason, the G-code doesn't seem to be moving from Mach 3 to the motors. Any help would be appreciated. Do I need to order new electronics or just part of the system? Thanks

Yes, you can contact me at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com to get the full BOM for that machine.

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I have a green lean machine that I acquired from a friend that had to move cross country and could not take the machine with him. It was partially disassembled and stored in his garage. Unfortunately, he lost a couple of parts I cannot easily replicate. Is there a parts list anywhere for this machine so that I can order replacements?

Use a clamping collar (if you are using an ACME lead screw) or a couple of 1/2 nuts (if using an allthread) against the bearing to keep the bearing in place and make sure there is no axial play.

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How do I secure the non-motor end of the lead screw for my 'Book' machine build? Does it just sit inside the bearing or do i use a nut to lock it in place? I did not see any instructions for this in the book.

Are you referring to the parts that make up the mount for the nozzle that slides along rail?

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Yes. Because the wood is thicker than the plastic, the holes for the screws that hold the bearings are off.

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Yes, understood. We must have used the wrong CAM file to cut the parts for those pieces. My apologies for that. I would rather send you new pieces poste haste.


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I might just go ahead and try to make them. I already had to make one piece that was missing. However, if you think you can get them here by Thursday, I can just go ahead and put the body together. If you do plan on sending them, I also need three more M 8 x 16 mm screws. Also still looking for a mini air compressor for the assist. Overall, the design is great and I'm enjoying putting it together.

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Thank you for the kind words. I will send it anyway and check with Sandra (the current shipper) if Thursday is possible. Just to confirm, the parts related to the steps 46 to 52 in the Vertical Laser XL instructions. Correct? There is a single screw that tightens the bearings onto the rails. This screw is located at the center of the assembly. I'm sure you did this already, but it deserves a mention just in case somebody else has this issue. Make sure that the screw is all the way loose to see if it still doesn't fit. Also worth mentioning, make sure not to tighten it too much as it is very easy to crack the plexiglass. The screw creates a very high force on this assembly.

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Yes. I think you should revisit your plexi cut sheets. The top two holes that hold the laser head from step 47 we're not drilled. I had to drill those. The part from step 48 was not included so I modified a different piece to make it. Also, the centerpiece from step 32, was not included. I ended up making one from plexi but I suggest machining it from aluminum.

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That is odd. I will definitely take a look. That doesn't sound right at all.

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But, once again, great design so far. I much prefer putting it together myself. Ill start working on the body.

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Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

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Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

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Excellent!


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I ended up just using a 2 nut system to secure the tensioner. The one I made cracked so that's why I suggested a machined Al.

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That makes sense.

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Hi Patrick, I also seem to have gotten some old or mis-cut parts -- holes don't line up in step 31, slot missing in step 36, and so on. I sent you an email last Friday with more details (subject "Order 41101"). Since then we realized that the y axis rails for step 37 are also cut too long and will need to be cut down by a few inches. That's as far as we've gotten so far, so no idea what else is lurking.

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I've copied my last comment to a new question to keep from cluttering up this thread; don't know yet if I'm also going to hit the issues with steps 46-52.

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Bought a vlxl from you guys. Great design however since you changed the main gantry support from plastic to wood, the guides for the head do not fit with the given plastic pieces. I do not think I have enough wiggle room in the plastic to drill new holes. I may be able to cut down the aluminum. What do you suggest?

Please contact us at sales@buildyourcnc.com so we can provide you with assistance on your order

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I am trying to purchase a kit for our school in Singapore, and your site keeps refusing our corporate AMEX card. Can you help us figure out what is up with that? Are you not ship to Singapore or something? Our AMEX rep says that the account is authorised for this purchase from our end, so the problem may be with your site? Please advise.

The settings that will have to be change will be your steps per inch in motor tuning (mach 3), or settings/axes(planetCNC). But we do not have the actual numbers/specs that will fit your 10 TPI 5 start lead screw, here is a tutorial video which explains how to get the exact numbers you need! (

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I just changed my X and Y to the ACME 1/2" 5 start lead screw. What are the motor tuning numbers. I have the book built machine.

The maximum length we can ship is a total of 78" inches. However we can send your required length in portions. Please refer to adding the total items you require to your cart to get a visualized amount and shipping cost.

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Regarding 1/2" 5 start and 10 TPI ACME precision lead screw, what the maximum length you can ship within USA? I'm looking for something like 100" and I could use a 1" screw if available. Please include estimated price. Thanks.