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Question #: 914

Question: My machine gantry weighs about 250lbs, I am going to be using 2 steppers to move it. I am using 2510 ball screw and the steppers will be direct drive, will a pair of 651oz steppers be enough? I will be mostly working with aluminum so my feed rates will be low I just want to make sure I dont loose steps due to not having enough power.

Current Solution

Since you are using a ball screw which has a very low coefficient of friction to move your heavy gantry, you will have no problem at all using the 651 oz-in motors, and you are not going against gravity, so if you use screw jack formulas that use the low of the machine, you will not need to use weight which is (mass x gravity 9.8 m/s/s). Instead, it will be more susceptible to the inertia of the gantry and if you have any problems, you can compensate by lowering the acceleration.

Additional Information:
Excellent, thank you for your help.

Additional Information:
How do I go about ordering the redleaf system you have discussed? IS there any lead time? Thanks
again

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Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • 3d printer filament is not feeding. It is heating and will melt and feed some but not consistently. Any tips on adjusting the set screw to get a good feed? I'm using PLA with the MK7 stepstruder being sold on the site.

    This may be less of an issue of the grasp that the feeder has on the filament and more an issue of the heat getting to the plastic at the hot end, or having enough heat at the hot end. Try increasing the temperature and try again. If that doesn't work, make sure you are insulating the hot end sufficiently to keep the hot end hot enough to keep the plastic melted.

    Click the link to respond:
    3d printer filament is not feeding. It is heating and will melt and feed some but not consistently. Any tips on adjusting the set screw to get a good feed? I'm using PLA with the MK7 stepstruder being sold on the site.

  • I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

    Considering enlarging the machine, might have its down sides do to the structural integrity of the scratch build machine. Primarily by making the width longer it will start to sag in the center, which will lead to having to redesign the gantry to be more structurally rigid to support the added length. Which then will increase the weight and height of your gantry to support the add size, which will always end up to creating a larger CNC.

    We usually do not recommend modifying the scratch build CNC, due to the very limited capabilities, and the structural design of the scratch build. We also do not recommend using longer than 48" ACME screw/leadscrew due to the increasing chance of warping and bending in the ACME screws/leadscrew in the given length.
    We do recommend modifying the CNC machines we sell to accommodate the added requests that some of our customers desire, but you will be limited to the width of the gantry with our machines.

    Click the link to respond:
    I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

  • How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

    Decreasing the speed of acceleration in the cutter? Meaning of your router/spindle?, To modify the speed of a router will be going to the router itself and modifying the speed, but if a spindle is being used modifying it will be done either manually in the VFD (VFD Setup:
    Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
    Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
    Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
    Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequency - Hz)
    Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
    Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
    Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
    Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
    Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
    Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
    Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
    Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution))<- make sure these are your settings in the VFD. If the spindle is wired to the breakout board and is working through Mach 3 then the modification will be done in your CamBam/Feed rate settings.

    Click the link to respond:
    How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

  • I am building a machine and don't know which steppers to use. Machine specs are: plywood frame, SBR25 rails, 96"X48" work area, rack and pinion for X and Y axis (2 motors with 2 racks for X axis), about 3:1 reduction ratio with belt drive. I plan to work on wood, acrylics and aluminum. Thank you!

    We would recommend using the heavy gantry electronics combo, using 2 - 425 oz-in motors(NEMA 24) and 1 651 oz-in motor(NEMA 34), with a additional 651 oz-in motor/6.0 amp driver for the x-axis, and that will leave the two NEMA 24 motors for your y/z-axes. The larger motors will be beneficial for the x-axis for the dual motor control and increased torque.

    Click the link to respond:
    I am building a machine and don't know which steppers to use. Machine specs are: plywood frame, SBR25 rails, 96"X48" work area, rack and pinion for X and Y axis (2 motors with 2 racks for X axis), about 3:1 reduction ratio with belt drive. I plan to work on wood, acrylics and aluminum. Thank you!

  • I am getting ready (within a week) to purchase your lug in play controller kits... The software I want to use is Vectric. I notice you talk about Mach software and sketch up. Be fore I purchase I want to make sure I can use what ever software I want... Thank you for your time. Pam
  • If I understand correctly, the greenBull kit comes with a spindle and laser. What else do I need to have a working machine. Obviously a table, do I also need the computer, software, wires, pump and plumbing, electronics, VFD, steppers and controllers?

    The greenBull kit (not the assembled) will need the table (the rails for the table is supplied), wires/cables for the stepper motors and stepper motor drivers, smaller gauge wires for digital wire connections (limit switches, drivers to control interface, etc), wires for the spindle connection to the VFD, tubing for water flow to and from the spindle, and a pump and reservoir (we are just about to introduce a small pump/reservoir/radiator/fan system for use with the spindle. The VFD/spindle, stepper motors/drivers and interface board are included.

    Click the link to respond:
    If I understand correctly, the greenBull kit comes with a spindle and laser. What else do I need to have a working machine. Obviously a table, do I also need the computer, software, wires, pump and plumbing, electronics, VFD, steppers and controllers?

  • Since I am using normal all-thread lead screw 13 TPI 1/2" for the book build cnc, what can be the maximum feed rate of machine and how can I change the mechanical setup in mach 3? I am using 1/4" steel carbile endmill with 2 flutes and router is 2 HP with variable speed

    Book build (scratch build), feedrates and recommendation.

    Using standard allthread will provide around 20-30 ipm using 36 volts. Although it allows for a working CNC machine, the RPM of the spindle/router will need to spin at the lowest setting to provide the beat efficiency and life for the end mill at 1/4" cut diameter and higher. The speeds may be fine for smaller end mills.

    If you would like faster speeds, you should change the lead screws on the CNC machine to the 1/2" 5 start 10 TPI which translates to 2 turns per inch which means, the stepping motor will not need to turn as fast to produce faster motion. That is to say, the stepping motor will only need to turn two revolutions for the machine to travel one inch and with the allthread, the stepping motor will need to turn 13 times to reach one inch.

    Link to the lead screw and other mechanical parts needed:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCMachineMechanicalParts.aspx

    To change the lead screws you will need (for each axis):

    1. The lead screw for that axis.
    2. Two 1/2" collars to keep the lead screw axially stable.
    3. One Antibacklash nut.

    Additional Information:
    20

    Click the link to respond:
    Since I am using normal all-thread lead screw 13 TPI 1/2" for the book build cnc, what can be the maximum feed rate of machine and how can I change the mechanical setup in mach 3? I am using 1/4" steel carbile endmill with 2 flutes and router is 2 HP with variable speed

  • Hello, I have a BlackToe 2 x 4 machine. I was wondering if it could be beneficial, or even possible to install two motors on the x-axis (one one each chain drive sprocket). I am noticing a slight shift in the gantry with each reversal of direction. If so, do you have a kit or schematic for this? Thanks

    it is possible to install 2 motors on a single axis but you will require another driver and motor, but wire it directly to the same pins on your breakout board. Also the orientation of your motor since it is opposite side of the original so getting it to move accordingly to the original motor it will need to be orientated correctly. The slight shift could be the cause of the rod not being completely flat where the set screws are suppose to tighten the sprocket to the rod, so sanding it to a flatter surface might fix the shift in directions.
    Currently do not have a kit or schematic available.

    Click the link to respond:
    Hello, I have a BlackToe 2 x 4 machine. I was wondering if it could be beneficial, or even possible to install two motors on the x-axis (one one each chain drive sprocket). I am noticing a slight shift in the gantry with each reversal of direction. If so, do you have a kit or schematic for this? Thanks

  • The vacuum regulator trimmers, do you know the part number and brand name for those as I had one snap off trying to use it. I would like buy a trimmer adjustment tool for it as the screwdriver is not working for me and also lookup the specs for it in case I want to convert it to a potentiometer.
  • Bought a vlxl from you guys. Great design however since you changed the main gantry support from plastic to wood, the guides for the head do not fit with the given plastic pieces. I do not think I have enough wiggle room in the plastic to drill new holes. I may be able to cut down the aluminum. What do you suggest?

    Are you referring to the parts that make up the mount for the nozzle that slides along rail?

    Additional Information:
    Yes. Because the wood is thicker than the plastic, the holes for the screws that hold the bearings are off.

    Additional Information:
    Yes, understood. We must have used the wrong CAM file to cut the parts for those pieces. My apologies for that. I would rather send you new pieces poste haste.


    Additional Information:
    I might just go ahead and try to make them. I already had to make one piece that was missing. However, if you think you can get them here by Thursday, I can just go ahead and put the body together. If you do plan on sending them, I also need three more M 8 x 16 mm screws. Also still looking for a mini air compressor for the assist. Overall, the design is great and I'm enjoying putting it together.

    Additional Information:
    Thank you for the kind words. I will send it anyway and check with Sandra (the current shipper) if Thursday is possible. Just to confirm, the parts related to the steps 46 to 52 in the Vertical Laser XL instructions. Correct? There is a single screw that tightens the bearings onto the rails. This screw is located at the center of the assembly. I'm sure you did this already, but it deserves a mention just in case somebody else has this issue. Make sure that the screw is all the way loose to see if it still doesn't fit. Also worth mentioning, make sure not to tighten it too much as it is very easy to crack the plexiglass. The screw creates a very high force on this assembly.

    Additional Information:
    Yes. I think you should revisit your plexi cut sheets. The top two holes that hold the laser head from step 47 we're not drilled. I had to drill those. The part from step 48 was not included so I modified a different piece to make it. Also, the centerpiece from step 32, was not included. I ended up making one from plexi but I suggest machining it from aluminum.

    Additional Information:
    That is odd. I will definitely take a look. That doesn't sound right at all.

    Additional Information:
    But, once again, great design so far. I much prefer putting it together myself. Ill start working on the body.

    Additional Information:
    Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

    Additional Information:
    Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

    Additional Information:
    Excellent!


    Additional Information:
    I ended up just using a 2 nut system to secure the tensioner. The one I made cracked so that's why I suggested a machined Al.

    Additional Information:
    That makes sense.

    Additional Information:
    Hi Patrick, I also seem to have gotten some old or mis-cut parts -- holes don't line up in step 31, slot missing in step 36, and so on. I sent you an email last Friday with more details (subject "Order 41101"). Since then we realized that the y axis rails for step 37 are also cut too long and will need to be cut down by a few inches. That's as far as we've gotten so far, so no idea what else is lurking.

    Additional Information:
    I've copied my last comment to a new question to keep from cluttering up this thread; don't know yet if I'm also going to hit the issues with steps 46-52.

    Click the link to respond:
    Bought a vlxl from you guys. Great design however since you changed the main gantry support from plastic to wood, the guides for the head do not fit with the given plastic pieces. I do not think I have enough wiggle room in the plastic to drill new holes. I may be able to cut down the aluminum. What do you suggest?

  • I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

    Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

    Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

    A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

    Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

    User response:
    Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
    Thank you.

    buildyourcnc response:
    On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

    Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

    In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

    There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

  • Please send an email, I am giving up on buying a machine from you because I don't know when you answer. I was asking about getting just the working parts and rails sent to Fiji. You sent an answer and some questions, but I have no way of knowing if you responded again.

    Not sure what you mean by the statement "I don't know when you answer". Please explain. I answer all of the incoming emails until my inbox is completely empty and all phone calls to the company go straight to my cell phone and I answer all of the calls, and if I don't answer, I call back immediately.


    Additional Information:
    I just searched my email and found no emails with your email address associated with the email listed with this question. I cannot answer questions if no correspondence was provided by you.

    Click the link to respond:
    Please send an email, I am giving up on buying a machine from you because I don't know when you answer. I was asking about getting just the working parts and rails sent to Fiji. You sent an answer and some questions, but I have no way of knowing if you responded again.

  • I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

    The 5x10 greenBull base kit comes with the structure, hardware, and electronics for motion control. In order to have a fully functional CNC you will need a table base for your machine, a spindle or router to handle your cutting applications, end mills (bits) for cutting, CAD, CAM and CNC software, and a computer. There are also accessories you can add such as limit switches, emergency stops, and cable carrier for cable management. If you are looking for more information or a formal quote please contact sales@buildyoucnc.com

    Click the link to respond:
    I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

  • I have followed all the "CNC Electronics 1 - 9" videos and I'm using almost the exact same components (motors run and sound good) but the motors are runing very hot in just 15min with no load - have I done something wrong or do steppers run very hot?

    If your motors are hot to the touch, this is normal. Current is being drawn by the motor coils as the motor moves and as the motor stays at a position. If the motor is not using the current in the coils to move (holding it's position), the energy will be translated as heat (rather than motion, sound or light). Even while moving, some of the energy will be lost as heat. Remember that energy cannot be created nor destroyed.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have followed all the "CNC Electronics 1 - 9" videos and I'm using almost the exact same components (motors run and sound good) but the motors are runing very hot in just 15min with no load - have I done something wrong or do steppers run very hot?

  • I am using Windows 10 and my Shopbot PRT 4g uses Shopbot's proprietary software https://www.shopbottools.com/support/control-software. How can I determine if the 4th axis you offer will be compatible with my machine?

    Generally, you’ll need to check what control software will need to be used with the CNC router. Our machines use industry standard electronics and control software that is nonproprietary so you can use just about any software out there with our machines.

    Specifically, what software are you planning on using?

    Additional Information:
    dear Sir,
    I'm searching for the best one,I think that I have to learn more about that in order to be able to make the right decision.

    Additional Information:
    If you are using a computer running Microsoft Windows, then I would recommend using Mach3 or Mach4. If you prefer Linux, then LinuxCNC is the best control software in my opinion.

    Click the link to respond:
    I am using Windows 10 and my Shopbot PRT 4g uses Shopbot's proprietary software https://www.shopbottools.com/support/control-software. How can I determine if the 4th axis you offer will be compatible with my machine?

  • WE ARE PERFORMING DIGITAL X RAY USING A 9 OR 15 MEV LINATRON. THE CAMERA NOT IN DIRECT BEAM PATH. TO SHIELD USED 2.5-INCH THICK TUNGSTEN. NOW FIND HAVE VERY HIGH NEUTRON DOSE WITHIN SHIELDED CONTAINER. WOULD SEEN THIS SAME PROBLEM LEAD TUNGSTEN WORSE? WHAT CAN DO ELIMINATE ACTIVATION CONTAINER? IT BE ENOUGH ADD BORON PLASTIC POWDER COAT

    The linatron is an industrial linear accelerator manufactured by Varian Medical Systems1. In a linatron, the electron beam strikes a target, producing bremsstrahlung which is then collimated with internal collimators and sometimes with external collimators. The target and internal collimator are typically made of some high-Z material such as tungsten. The accelerator head is usually shielded with lead or tungsten. Neutron production will take place in any material struck by an electron or bremsstrahlung beam above a threshold energy (Eth). The minimum threshold for photoneutron production in tungsten and lead is 6.19 MeV and 6.11 MeV, respectively (NCRP 1984). Thus a linatron operating at 9 MV will produce neutrons. The photoneutron spectrum from the accelerator head resembles that of a fission spectrum. The spectrum changes after penetration through the head shielding. Since the linatron is usually operated in a concrete-shielded room, room-scattered neutrons will further soften the spectrum. Neutrons are classified as:

    Thermal: En = 0.025 eV at 20°C; typically En < 0.5 eV (cadmium resonance)
    Intermediate: 0.5 eV Fast: En > 10 keV
    where En is the neutron energy.

    The neutrons observed at the camera location will consist primarily of neutrons leaking directly from the accelerator head, room-scattered neutrons, neutrons produced in the object to be imaged by the primary bremsstrahlung beam, and neutrons scattered from the object to be imaged. Since the camera is not in the direct-beam path, photoneutrons can only be produced in the shielding by leakage photons or photons scattered from the object to be imaged. Since leakage photons are typically only 1 percent or 0.01 percent of the primary beam or even lower, neutron production in the camera shielding from leakage photons can be considered negligible, as can neutrons produced by photons scattered from the object. Therefore changing the shielding from tungsten to lead will not significantly reduce the neutrons at the camera location. The camera can be shielded from neutrons with several inches of a hydrogeneous material such as polyethylene. If thermal neutrons are also of concern, polyethylene doped with 5 percent boron (borated polyethylene) can be used. Boron has a much higher cross-section than polyethylene for thermal neutron capture. Boron interacts with thermal neutrons by undergoing an (n,a) reaction producing 7Li, which then undergoes an isomeric transition by emitting a 0.478 MeV photon or gamma ray. These photons are much lower in energy than the thermal neutron capture gammas (2.2 MeV) from hydrogen in the polyethylene. A sandwich construction of tungsten (or lead), polyethylene, and tungsten (or lead) will work best.

    Click the link to respond:
    WE ARE PERFORMING DIGITAL X RAY USING A 9 OR 15 MEV LINATRON. THE CAMERA NOT IN DIRECT BEAM PATH. TO SHIELD USED 2.5-INCH THICK TUNGSTEN. NOW FIND HAVE VERY HIGH NEUTRON DOSE WITHIN SHIELDED CONTAINER. WOULD SEEN THIS SAME PROBLEM LEAD TUNGSTEN WORSE? WHAT CAN DO ELIMINATE ACTIVATION CONTAINER? IT BE ENOUGH ADD BORON PLASTIC POWDER COAT

  • I have one of your smaller stepper motors running my X AXIS bridge crane and if it is moved to fast the stepper motor sounds like it is skipping steps will the 651oz stepper motor require a different power supply and controler?

    Yes, the 651 oz/in motor requires a driver that is compatible to the motors (the motor will draw 6 amps max and the driver paired with this motor will be able to allow for a 6 amp draw). I would also recommend a 36 volt power supply for better high velocity performance.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have one of your smaller stepper motors running my X AXIS bridge crane and if it is moved to fast the stepper motor sounds like it is skipping steps will the 651oz stepper motor require a different power supply and controler?

  • Having some repeatability issues on Y axis of the blackFoot CNC Router. doing motor tuning, but also notice the Y axis idler pulley doesn't stand up straight. Bearing seems good, just loose on the bolt. Do i try to shim between bearing to bolt or shim the sides to make it stay up straight?

    First, make sure that the alignment of the roller chain is straight with respect to where the roller chains are affixed at the ends of the gantry. This is of chief importance as there will be a clicking sound if there is no alignment. Also, make sure the idler sprocket can move from side to side to auto-correct on alignment, unless you can fit nuts or shim washers on either side to maintain the perfect position with respect to the alignment of the chain.

    The misalignment of the chain is most likely the reason the idler sprocket is slanted at an angle.

    If you are having repeatibility issues, make sure the drive sprocket is very tight on the motor shaft, and that the set screw is tightened on the flat of the stepper motor shaft. This is the typical culprit if any of the axes are having repeatability problems. It is difficult to determine if the drive sprocket is loose. Make sure to push with a bit of force to determine this.

    Additional Information:
    ok, took the y axis apart. Checked the drive sprocket. it seems tight. Although I did not take it off and put it back on. Checked the chain alignment edge to edge using a straight edge along the y drive rail and no clicking. tightened the chain and seemed to have it now off the same distance to the other side of the Y. I lossened it back up but no noticeable change.
    using Mach3 spindle not running, just a pointer bit in and feed rate 50ipm
    9k line gcode it's off by about .1 to .14 (ran code 4 different times, once in opposite corner of table) 130k gcode it's off 1.3 to 1.5 (ran code 4 different times, once in opposite corner of table). Not sure what to do, using the using the mach3 motor tuning it seems really close, and it's always the Y. should I swap wiring on the x & y drivers to see if problem goes to X?


    Additional Information:
    You can give the swap a try. It would rule out a possible wiring/driver/motor issue. If that doesn't work, we will need to go email so we can see pics to get a clearer understanding of the issue.

    Additional Information:
    So, I couldn't swap X and Y as X has a big honkin' motor. So I swapped the Driver for Y and Z, ran the same 130k line gcode and Y was spot on, but now Z is off. it was only off by .01 but there wasn't as much Z movement as there was Y of course. To me this would point to the driver. What do you think?

    Click the link to respond:
    Having some repeatability issues on Y axis of the blackFoot CNC Router. doing motor tuning, but also notice the Y axis idler pulley doesn't stand up straight. Bearing seems good, just loose on the bolt. Do i try to shim between bearing to bolt or shim the sides to make it stay up straight?

  • I'm new to this and was wondering if I connected something incorrectly... I followed the schematics found on this site for wiring. I purchased the heavy gantry kit with the USB power option. All my lights come on and motor shafts resist turning but, I cannot get movement from Mach3. How do I test my equipment to see if I've damaged anything?

    By USB power do you mean the USB board? or do you mean that it is powered through USB but you have the parallel breakout board?


    Additional Information:
    I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

    Additional Information:
    I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

    Additional Information:
    I was referring to USB Board. Thanks for responding but that issue was resolve. I noticed that Mach 3 was downloaded twice. I copied and pasted RNR file to second copy of Mach 3 and motor runs properly. Should I remove one copy of Mach3 so there is only one? Seems like that could cause confusion. Thanks

    Click the link to respond:
    I'm new to this and was wondering if I connected something incorrectly... I followed the schematics found on this site for wiring. I purchased the heavy gantry kit with the USB power option. All my lights come on and motor shafts resist turning but, I cannot get movement from Mach3. How do I test my equipment to see if I've damaged anything?

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