Decreasing the speed of acceleration in the cutter? Meaning of your router/spindle?, To modify the speed of a router will be going to the router itself and modifying the speed, but if a spindle is being used modifying it will be done either manually in the VFD (VFD Setup:
Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequency - Hz)
Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution))<- make sure these are your settings in the VFD. If the spindle is wired to the breakout board and is working through Mach 3 then the modification will be done in your CamBam/Feed rate settings.

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How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

We would recommend using the heavy gantry electronics combo, using 2 - 425 oz-in motors(NEMA 24) and 1 651 oz-in motor(NEMA 34), with a additional 651 oz-in motor/6.0 amp driver for the x-axis, and that will leave the two NEMA 24 motors for your y/z-axes. The larger motors will be beneficial for the x-axis for the dual motor control and increased torque.

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I am building a machine and don't know which steppers to use. Machine specs are: plywood frame, SBR25 rails, 96"X48" work area, rack and pinion for X and Y axis (2 motors with 2 racks for X axis), about 3:1 reduction ratio with belt drive. I plan to work on wood, acrylics and aluminum. Thank you!

Book build (scratch build), feedrates and recommendation.

Using standard allthread will provide around 20-30 ipm using 36 volts. Although it allows for a working CNC machine, the RPM of the spindle/router will need to spin at the lowest setting to provide the beat efficiency and life for the end mill at 1/4" cut diameter and higher. The speeds may be fine for smaller end mills.

If you would like faster speeds, you should change the lead screws on the CNC machine to the 1/2" 5 start 10 TPI which translates to 2 turns per inch which means, the stepping motor will not need to turn as fast to produce faster motion. That is to say, the stepping motor will only need to turn two revolutions for the machine to travel one inch and with the allthread, the stepping motor will need to turn 13 times to reach one inch.

Link to the lead screw and other mechanical parts needed:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCMachineMechanicalParts.aspx

To change the lead screws you will need (for each axis):

1. The lead screw for that axis.
2. Two 1/2" collars to keep the lead screw axially stable.
3. One Antibacklash nut.

Additional Information:
20

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Since I am using normal all-thread lead screw 13 TPI 1/2" for the book build cnc, what can be the maximum feed rate of machine and how can I change the mechanical setup in mach 3? I am using 1/4" steel carbile endmill with 2 flutes and router is 2 HP with variable speed

Considering enlarging the machine, might have its down sides do to the structural integrity of the scratch build machine. Primarily by making the width longer it will start to sag in the center, which will lead to having to redesign the gantry to be more structurally rigid to support the added length. Which then will increase the weight and height of your gantry to support the add size, which will always end up to creating a larger CNC.

We usually do not recommend modifying the scratch build CNC, due to the very limited capabilities, and the structural design of the scratch build. We also do not recommend using longer than 48" ACME screw/leadscrew due to the increasing chance of warping and bending in the ACME screws/leadscrew in the given length.
We do recommend modifying the CNC machines we sell to accommodate the added requests that some of our customers desire, but you will be limited to the width of the gantry with our machines.

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I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

Yes, we can make a redLeaf system that has all 6A drivers for use with the 651 oz-in motors. We can also wire the electronics in a way that two of the drivers will use the pins of the same axis so that axis will drive two drivers and motors.

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I am building a machine that requires 2 steppers to drive the Y axis, can you make me a redleaf system using the 651oz steppers that will work for me?

Not sure what you mean by the statement "I don't know when you answer". Please explain. I answer all of the incoming emails until my inbox is completely empty and all phone calls to the company go straight to my cell phone and I answer all of the calls, and if I don't answer, I call back immediately.


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I just searched my email and found no emails with your email address associated with the email listed with this question. I cannot answer questions if no correspondence was provided by you.

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Please send an email, I am giving up on buying a machine from you because I don't know when you answer. I was asking about getting just the working parts and rails sent to Fiji. You sent an answer and some questions, but I have no way of knowing if you responded again.

The 5x10 greenBull base kit comes with the structure, hardware, and electronics for motion control. In order to have a fully functional CNC you will need a table base for your machine, a spindle or router to handle your cutting applications, end mills (bits) for cutting, CAD, CAM and CNC software, and a computer. There are also accessories you can add such as limit switches, emergency stops, and cable carrier for cable management. If you are looking for more information or a formal quote please contact sales@buildyoucnc.com

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I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

If you already have a Mach3 license, you don't need to purchase another one. The license is connected to you rather than the computer. Mach4 is licensed to the computer, but you are able to have multiple computers for each license, and can be switched from one computer to another.

If you purchased the license from me, you can call (make sure to leave a voicemail), or email to get a re-issued license.

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[575] I have an older CNC (2018) which has been working fine. The Windows 7 PC crashed and I am trying to get operational again using a windows 10 machine. I will have to buy a new license for the Mach 3 so will need to get the interface board I have to talk to MAch 3. Can I get just the disc or is there a place I can download what I need?

The greenBull kit (not the assembled) will need the table (the rails for the table is supplied), wires/cables for the stepper motors and stepper motor drivers, smaller gauge wires for digital wire connections (limit switches, drivers to control interface, etc), wires for the spindle connection to the VFD, tubing for water flow to and from the spindle, and a pump and reservoir (we are just about to introduce a small pump/reservoir/radiator/fan system for use with the spindle. The VFD/spindle, stepper motors/drivers and interface board are included.

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If I understand correctly, the greenBull kit comes with a spindle and laser. What else do I need to have a working machine. Obviously a table, do I also need the computer, software, wires, pump and plumbing, electronics, VFD, steppers and controllers?

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

Since you mentioned there is a nasty smell, I'm wondering if there might have been a issue with the power supply. Can you email us your name for the order and specific voltage you are using for the redFly? at techsupport@buildyourcnc.com. Also I want to mention if you have the USB cord plugged in to the redFly if it has the parallel interface board?

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When I first hooked up my redFly and was manually testing all the axes, everything was going well, then my Y axis stopped working all together, and now my X and Z have stopped also and my redFly has a nasty smell coming from it and none of the stepper motors seem to be getting power.

This may be less of an issue of the grasp that the feeder has on the filament and more an issue of the heat getting to the plastic at the hot end, or having enough heat at the hot end. Try increasing the temperature and try again. If that doesn't work, make sure you are insulating the hot end sufficiently to keep the hot end hot enough to keep the plastic melted.

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3d printer filament is not feeding. It is heating and will melt and feed some but not consistently. Any tips on adjusting the set screw to get a good feed? I'm using PLA with the MK7 stepstruder being sold on the site.

Yes, the 651 oz/in motor requires a driver that is compatible to the motors (the motor will draw 6 amps max and the driver paired with this motor will be able to allow for a 6 amp draw). I would also recommend a 36 volt power supply for better high velocity performance.

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I have one of your smaller stepper motors running my X AXIS bridge crane and if it is moved to fast the stepper motor sounds like it is skipping steps will the 651oz stepper motor require a different power supply and controler?

Are you referring to the parts that make up the mount for the nozzle that slides along rail?

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Yes. Because the wood is thicker than the plastic, the holes for the screws that hold the bearings are off.

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Yes, understood. We must have used the wrong CAM file to cut the parts for those pieces. My apologies for that. I would rather send you new pieces poste haste.


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I might just go ahead and try to make them. I already had to make one piece that was missing. However, if you think you can get them here by Thursday, I can just go ahead and put the body together. If you do plan on sending them, I also need three more M 8 x 16 mm screws. Also still looking for a mini air compressor for the assist. Overall, the design is great and I'm enjoying putting it together.

Additional Information:
Thank you for the kind words. I will send it anyway and check with Sandra (the current shipper) if Thursday is possible. Just to confirm, the parts related to the steps 46 to 52 in the Vertical Laser XL instructions. Correct? There is a single screw that tightens the bearings onto the rails. This screw is located at the center of the assembly. I'm sure you did this already, but it deserves a mention just in case somebody else has this issue. Make sure that the screw is all the way loose to see if it still doesn't fit. Also worth mentioning, make sure not to tighten it too much as it is very easy to crack the plexiglass. The screw creates a very high force on this assembly.

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Yes. I think you should revisit your plexi cut sheets. The top two holes that hold the laser head from step 47 we're not drilled. I had to drill those. The part from step 48 was not included so I modified a different piece to make it. Also, the centerpiece from step 32, was not included. I ended up making one from plexi but I suggest machining it from aluminum.

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That is odd. I will definitely take a look. That doesn't sound right at all.

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But, once again, great design so far. I much prefer putting it together myself. Ill start working on the body.

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Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

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Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

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Excellent!


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I ended up just using a 2 nut system to secure the tensioner. The one I made cracked so that's why I suggested a machined Al.

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That makes sense.

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Hi Patrick, I also seem to have gotten some old or mis-cut parts -- holes don't line up in step 31, slot missing in step 36, and so on. I sent you an email last Friday with more details (subject "Order 41101"). Since then we realized that the y axis rails for step 37 are also cut too long and will need to be cut down by a few inches. That's as far as we've gotten so far, so no idea what else is lurking.

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I've copied my last comment to a new question to keep from cluttering up this thread; don't know yet if I'm also going to hit the issues with steps 46-52.

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Bought a vlxl from you guys. Great design however since you changed the main gantry support from plastic to wood, the guides for the head do not fit with the given plastic pieces. I do not think I have enough wiggle room in the plastic to drill new holes. I may be able to cut down the aluminum. What do you suggest?

Cutting metal with lasers even at 100W and 130W is difficult. The main problem is molten is a byproduct of lasing, which can severely damage the laser.

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For the XL Vertical Laser Machine I see it won't cut metal as it is only 80w. However, I noticed that you are working on 100w and 130w versions so will that be sufficient to cut through sheet metal? If so, how much longer until those are available?

CamBam specifically creates the g-code (machining operations) instructions to be loaded into Mach3. Make sure in your CamBam g-code file parameters, you are using the Mach3 post processor. If you have already done this, let me know. If you are not sure how to do this, let me know.

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I am having trouble connecting the cambam program with my Mach3 to my 4X8 Blackfoot CNC machine. Where can I get help on this issue. Have had my machine since 2015 and have not been able to use it. Thank you

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I purchased limit switches from you mounted them on my machine and wire them to the breakout for using pin 12 and the ground on the breakout board, after a few minutes I got a message about a limit switch trip. Am I supposed to use the extra outport on the board instead of the ground?

Yes, the redLeaf plug-and-play CNC electronics can include a THC (Torch Height Controller) and motors of any size. The limit of the number of motors that this package can include is 8 motors in total.

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Will the redleaf package allow me to run a torch height controller and 2 nema 34 motors for my gantry? I would prefer to have motors on both sides of the machine with a heavy gantry

Yes, if the power supplies were supplied by us, we will exchange them with 110v equivalent power supplies.

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Hello, I am a student working on a CO2 laser. We recently ordered two 40watt CO2 laser tubes and two 40 Watt CO2 Laser Tube Power Supply at 220V. However, our school is unable to use them due to being 220v. Is it possible to exchange these for the 110v supply, or is there a way we can go about connecting it at 110v instead of 220v? Thank you.