You will want to connect the homing switches (which may also serve as your near limit switches) to different input terminals. It's ok to add more limit switches with the home switches, but each home should be on independent inputs. For example, connect home X and any other limit switch to IN1, connect home Y and any other limit switch to IN2, and so on. This will allow you to properly use the "ref all home" button in Mach3.

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In the instructions (diagram 1) you show all the home switches connected in parallel? But here you say they need to each have their own inputs. "You will want to connect the homing switches (which may also serve as your near limit switches) to different input terminals." I dont see how the second and third axis can go home if the first axis has already closed the parallel circuit unless they back off a bit until the switch opens up again before the next axis goes to home? My machine has no limit switches so I assume they are home switches.

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[575] I have finally got my limit switches wired and working - thank you. Can they also used as homing switches and if so it it just a question of looping the two inputs on the board i.e. the limit and home terminals IN2 to IN3

If one or more motor is not responding, please follow the troubleshooting directions below:

For parallel Bob only! Make sure both the parallel and USB are connected.

Re-check wiring, and connections for continuity (no breaks in the wires) and check for correct wiring locations from driver to BoB.
Check dip switch settings on the driver.
Check components, by swapping the motors (ex. y-axis motor to z or x-axis driver and z or x-axis motor to y-axis driver) to check if motor functions on another driver.
Depending on software check step low active (mach 3) or invert pulse (planet-cnc) for the axis which is not responding.
Mach 3 - config/port & pins/motor outputs / Planet-CNC - file/settings/axes

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I have an engine NEMA 34 from Y axis on my green bull that do not response, I already check connections and everything seems to be OK, how can I check that the motor it's working properly or not?

Did you set them up as limit switches or home switches?

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Not sure where do I check that?

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Go to config, then ports and pins, then input signals.

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The limits are labeled x++, x— for example.

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I'm using Mach3. I have 2 limit switches on X, 2 on Y and 1on Z for retracted/home. I can go to diagnostics and see the switches/inputs working. But when I move with jog or gcode they have no effect. Also I can go right past the soft limits. I must have something turn off but I don't know what.

If you are using Mach3, the setting for the input pin 10 may be enabled as a default for use with the Emergency Stop. If there is no emergency stop on that pin, the reset will trip every time.

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I have the redleaf system for my black toe machine I have wired my limit switches in series NC after setting up in mach 3 I still get limit switch tripped after apply and ok setup can only run if I disable what am I doing wrong

Sounds like a wire may have worked itself loose. Did this just start happening? If so, check for loose terminals with the motor wiring. Did you solder the motor wires to the extended wires that lead to the driver? If not, I strongly suggest these wires be soldered and a heat shrink tubing cover the soldered connection to eliminate the possibility of shorting.

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I am just now starting to work with the machine. Was on vacation. It has never moved smoothly on the X. Was hoping to get some phone time with you or Juan tomorrow. All the connections are solid as far as I can tell. Nothing is interfering. I'm wondering if the rail spacing is off. It moves fine when I manually move it.

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If it moves smoothly when manually moving it, but the stepper motor runs rough, then it is definitely a motor wire connection. Also, check to make sure the driver is set to 1/16 microstepping and the motor amps is around 5.

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What gauge wire did you use for the motor to driver connection?

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It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

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It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

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18 gauge is more than sufficient for this stepper motor wiring. We use 20 gauge stranded wires in the 4 conductor motor cable.

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Sometimes wires can get chaffed, or there is a conductivity issue in some wires.I'm wondering if it would be goo to do a test rewiring the motor to the driver, but not putting it into the cable carrier, just to make sure that is the problem.

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What do you suggest I do? Just go over the wiring? The 18 is fine for 5.5A? All the switches look right. Set at 1/16. What are the natural steps on this motor?

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I’ll check the conductivity on the wires. I can just re-run it with that four conductor. That cable works fine for you guys?

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The 4 conductor cable is the only cable we use for these stepper motors. It's a special cable used for motion applications.

Here is a link to that cable that we sell just to confirm the cable we are discussing:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-cable-wire-20awg-wrcon


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Yeah, that’s it. However, I ran the stock File on the laser cutter, the duck, it seems to run fine it’s just when you make the small adjustments with the arrow keys that it’s so rough. The other problem is that the speed on the stock file is way too fast.

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Ah, the jogging speed. I did not consider this. You definitely need to reduce the speed when you press the arrow keys.

The speed when running a job (the file) can be modified in LaserCad.

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So, I’ll look into that. Everything is done besides for Putting the tube on and adjusting the mirrors. When are you guys available for a quick phone call?

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In LaserCAD, go to the options -> system options -> User parameters. Make sure to click the read button to bring the parameters from the laser controller to the software. Our Key_Move_Speed is 100 and our X/Y_Home_Speed is also 100. I wouldn't go any faster than that. Curious, what are your values for these parameters?

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Key speed was set to 200 and XY was at 50. On the duck file on the machine, it says the speed is at 200. How can I import that file to change it?

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Much smoother after that change. File is still too fast, though.

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In the file, the speed is built into the geometry. You will need to open the file in LaserCAD, select the geometry and modify the speed. Make sure to change the intensity as well to compensate.

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Patrick, I am having issues with the x axis on the vlxl..very rough movement. What should I adjust? Check the rail spacing or can I modify anything in the software?

Planet CNC has the option to turn off these outputs on your USB board. Under the File/settings/Pins. You will have Spindle (M3,M4,M5) Coolant (M7,M8,M9) as available output pins. On the drop down tabs for these output pins you will have this option ( --- ), if selected it will turn of that output pin in your board and you will get not voltage change in the pin.

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On the USB controller I am unable to get voltage from the Mist relay block on the board. The Flood and Spindle produce a voltage change correctly. Is there a setting I am missing?

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

Most likely, the driver is not receiving the high or low signal for the direction terminals. The way direction works for an axis is the controller will output a high signal (5V) for one direction and low signal (0V) for the opposite direction. If the signal is always at one signal, say 5V, whether it is commanded in one direction or the other, then the axis will only move in that direction.

To solve this problem, make sure that the wiring is secure at both ends (from the controller to the driver). Also, make sure the Dir+ and DIR- are both wired correctly (i.e. the Dir- is connected to the signal gnd on the controller and the ZD is connected to Dir+ on the driver.

You can use a multimeter to determine the voltage at the ZD terminal by:
- setting the multimeter to DC voltage (the V with a straight line, or dashed line above the V)
- place the black lead on the gnd terminal
- place the red lead on the ZD terminal
- press the page up button and check the voltage
- press the page down button and check the voltage.

You should see the voltage change from 0V to 5V or vice versa.

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Hi I have just set up my machine using a mach 3 USB board I can only get the Z to go in one direction Y and X are Ok I have check wiring and looked at video over and over what have I missed??

Yes, the best way to attach a relay to the output of the Mach3 USB board is to use an SSR (Solid State Relay) at the 24 Volt rating. This is the standard supply for this side of the Mach3 USB board.

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I am converting from a Parallel Port to the Mach3 USB. My limit switches can accomodate up to 5VDC and I want to Drive a Relay from one of the outputs. Will my switches work and do I need a 24VDC Relay?

For safety's sake I would recommend a new board because they are inexpensive compared to the electronics that they support. Alternatively, it's possible that the one dead pin is a simple fix, such as a bad connection or solder joint; if you feel comfortable making those repairs then it could be worthwhile to check. Finally, if you are not using all the input pins, you could continue to operate the limit switch on pin 11 and hope for the best.

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I have a breakout board and it appears that the pin 12 connection has failed: when i move my limit switches to pin 11 they work; they don't work on pin 12. Do i need a new breakout board?

In regards to getting a complete plug and go system, there are a lot of items to consider.
Electronics, DYI or one of our electronics kits that come assembled and tested?
Cable for the motors is a additional purchase, spindle? = silicone tubing/water pump, etc.
Cable carrier (wire management), software (also additional purchase).

We can view your cart, but please send us your email and username to customerservice@buildyourcnc.com so it will remain secure!

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I want to by a 5 by 10 foot kit, sorry, I don't have the time to read everything here. what should I be thinking about, Can you veiw my cart and tell me what else I need to get?

Make sure to wire the limit as normally open.

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[575] I had limit switches working and on input 2. Now looking at Mach 3 diagnostics, Input 2 is continuously on and triggers limit stop. I removed all input 2 so the machine can run. Rebooted all. Anyway to reset Input on card?

When wiring the limit switches to our BoB(breakout board), depending in the older model or our revised version (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/0/), the older version will need the COM (limit switch) connected to 5V and the NO/NC to your input pin, but with our newer version you will use GND(ground instead of 5V) to common and the same for NO/NC but the setup in the mach3/confi/ports&pins/ is still the same.

Here is a tutorial where you can see how to set up the limit switches correctly (with our older parallel BoB): Part 1:(

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I am attempting to set up limit switches on the 5 axis parallel breakout board that came with my BlackFoot kit. The output pins are driving the motors perfectly, but I can't figure out the input pins. With one lead in the 5V pin and one lead testing the input pins, my multimeter reads 0V for all of the input pins. Shouldn't those circuits be +5V? Where am I going wrong?

Have you considered reversing the A and B coils on one of the motors to the drivers? This will cause the motor to spin in the opposite direction. This is the easiest method. Using the HEX inverter is a more complex method and not recommended for simple driving tasks.

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I have two nema 34 motors on my gantry and ordered a hex inverter, now I need to wire it correctly. What type of wiring hardware do I need and I will need a wiring diagram also. Please help.

Have you considered reversing the A and B coils on one of the motors to the drivers? This will cause the motor to spin in the opposite direction. This is the easiest method. Using the HEX inverter is a more complex method and not recommended for simple driving tasks.

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I have two nema 34 motors on my gantry and ordered a hex inverter, now I need to wire it correctly. What type of wiring hardware do I need and I will need a wiring diagram also. Please help.

You will definitely want to adjust your debounce setting in mach3 if your emergency or limit switch is engaging.

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Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same problem.

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Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same problem.

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Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same problem.

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Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same problem.

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Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same problem.

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Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same problem.

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Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same problem.

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Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same problem.

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Did you try changing the denounce setting?

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Meant to say denounce.

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When I start my spindle I get a emergency stop in Mach 3. I have run shielded cable and it is grounded at the VFD it is wired per you site instructions. any idea what to check

Make sure the input port is set to port 3.

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Make sure the input port is set to port 3.

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Make sure the input port is set to port 3.

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I can not get my limit switches to work properly on my Mach3 USB controller. I know I have it wired correctly. I can not reset mach3 by either the reset button or the squealy line button below the exap button without unplugging the 24 volt power supply. I have watched the youtube videos at least 20 times and verified and triple verified the wiring. I can send photos to an email address.

No, you should not have received two parallel breakout boards in your CNC kit. You can return the extra item using standard shipping with COD. Our apologies for the confusion and the inconvenience.

I will answer the other question as another FAQ. Please check the Customer Service page to see the answer to that question.

If you have difficulty finding the answer, here is a link:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/FAQ/13636

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I have a 2000 WK 11–3 Z limit switches going to A c10r10 breakout board . Can I also use them as my home position as well. I need The wiring configuration

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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How can I convert from Xylotex to yours, four axis with limit switches. Have parallel PC and steppers on machine.