If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X axis stepper motor stalls and shutters when coming from a stand still and won't move without a push by hand. I took the chains off and spun the motor fine with out a load. When I have the chain hooked up I can move the machine back and forth fine by hand, with no hang ups or anything, but when I try to have the motor move the machine it doesn't and just spins out. Any suggestions?

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

Users response:
I've lowered my acceleration to 1 in the StepCon program and it still shutters when I jog it, anything else I could check?

Buildyourcnc response:
IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

Buildyourcnc response:
The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Buildyourcnc response:
Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

Users response:
Problem is now solved, I switched the X and Y at the redFly and got the same problem, so then I undid the wires going to each motor and switched them there and it I had a bad solder point in the X axis connector, thank you for the help

Buildyourcnc response:
You're very welcome. We will make sure to thoroughly check the solder points on the cable connectors prior to a redFly delivery.

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GreenBull 5x10 X axis shutters and spins out with acceleration at 1 in StepCon, is there anything else I can check?

Sounds like a wire may have worked itself loose. Did this just start happening? If so, check for loose terminals with the motor wiring. Did you solder the motor wires to the extended wires that lead to the driver? If not, I strongly suggest these wires be soldered and a heat shrink tubing cover the soldered connection to eliminate the possibility of shorting.

Additional Information:
I am just now starting to work with the machine. Was on vacation. It has never moved smoothly on the X. Was hoping to get some phone time with you or Juan tomorrow. All the connections are solid as far as I can tell. Nothing is interfering. I'm wondering if the rail spacing is off. It moves fine when I manually move it.

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If it moves smoothly when manually moving it, but the stepper motor runs rough, then it is definitely a motor wire connection. Also, check to make sure the driver is set to 1/16 microstepping and the motor amps is around 5.

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What gauge wire did you use for the motor to driver connection?

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It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

Additional Information:
It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

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18 gauge is more than sufficient for this stepper motor wiring. We use 20 gauge stranded wires in the 4 conductor motor cable.

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Sometimes wires can get chaffed, or there is a conductivity issue in some wires.I'm wondering if it would be goo to do a test rewiring the motor to the driver, but not putting it into the cable carrier, just to make sure that is the problem.

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What do you suggest I do? Just go over the wiring? The 18 is fine for 5.5A? All the switches look right. Set at 1/16. What are the natural steps on this motor?

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I’ll check the conductivity on the wires. I can just re-run it with that four conductor. That cable works fine for you guys?

Additional Information:
The 4 conductor cable is the only cable we use for these stepper motors. It's a special cable used for motion applications.

Here is a link to that cable that we sell just to confirm the cable we are discussing:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-cable-wire-20awg-wrcon


Additional Information:
Yeah, that’s it. However, I ran the stock File on the laser cutter, the duck, it seems to run fine it’s just when you make the small adjustments with the arrow keys that it’s so rough. The other problem is that the speed on the stock file is way too fast.

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Ah, the jogging speed. I did not consider this. You definitely need to reduce the speed when you press the arrow keys.

The speed when running a job (the file) can be modified in LaserCad.

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So, I’ll look into that. Everything is done besides for Putting the tube on and adjusting the mirrors. When are you guys available for a quick phone call?

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In LaserCAD, go to the options -> system options -> User parameters. Make sure to click the read button to bring the parameters from the laser controller to the software. Our Key_Move_Speed is 100 and our X/Y_Home_Speed is also 100. I wouldn't go any faster than that. Curious, what are your values for these parameters?

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Key speed was set to 200 and XY was at 50. On the duck file on the machine, it says the speed is at 200. How can I import that file to change it?

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Much smoother after that change. File is still too fast, though.

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In the file, the speed is built into the geometry. You will need to open the file in LaserCAD, select the geometry and modify the speed. Make sure to change the intensity as well to compensate.

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Patrick, I am having issues with the x axis on the vlxl..very rough movement. What should I adjust? Check the rail spacing or can I modify anything in the software?

To determine the status of your order, simply log in and click on the "[My Account]" link at the top of the page. If you purchased as a guest, you will need to call the office to determine the status and get the tracking number for your order.

The office phone number can be found by clicking "Need Help?" is located at the top right of all buildyourcnc.com web pages.

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I placed an order for a 4th axis with tailstock on Wednesday and was just wanting to check on the shipment status. I'm needing the item early next week and need to confirm that it will arrive in time. Thank you.

Try slowing your feedrate down and increasing spindle RPMs. End-mills will leave a poor finish if you go too fast. Make sure your cutting depth isn't too much. Maybe the endmill or cutter is blunt? Could it be the feed direction of the cutter? Some materials need to be fed in a certain direction.

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MOTOR GOING TWO DIRECTION WHEN JUST PUSH UP. IT WILL GO DOWN AND THEN GOES AGAIN UP WITH THE SAME BUTTON.

I just texted Juan to call you before he leaves the office.

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Thank you.

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My pleasure.

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Hello. Tried to send you guys an email but it wouldn't go through. Just wanted to check on my VLXL and if it will be ready to ship out tomorrow.

It seems to be getting some kind of interference or a short within the wiring or communication, try jogging the motors in the software without anything wired to the board. Then add one motor at a time to see if there is a short within your wiring or a faulty driver/motor.
If the USB breakout board continues to move the x-axis with no motors or driver wired to it, please email customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for a replacement or further troubleshooting.

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I AM USING USB BREAKOUT BOARD WITH PLANET-CNC SOFTWARE. WHEN ENABLE JOGGING KEYBOARD X AXIS STARTS TO MOVE BY ITSELF (WHETHER CONNECTED OF NOT). PRESS STOP - IT STOPS FOR A MOMENT AND THEN AGAIN. WHAT COULD THAT BE? TRIED REINSTALL SOFTWARE DID NOT HELP.

Make sure all your bolts/screws are tighten correctly and if using a lead screw make sure your anti-backlash nut is not offset. Now a default setting will be 10101100 for your driver dip switch settings and in motor tuning (mach3) 1600 steps per, 400.02 velocity, 4 in acceleration. now the acceleration and velocity can be adjusted to move your machine faster, but if set to high they could stall. Make sure you have the correct wiring from your motor to your driver (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM60HT86-2008BF-U%20(inhouse%20PN.60BYGH303-13)%20(1).pdf).

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I have your Nema 24 electronics kit and am having problems with the Z axis dropping over time. I am using a PC 8902 motor. Any ideas on what the problem is? What should be the motor tuning values in Mach3? Thanks

You need to set up the homing/limits parameters. You can find this screen by clicking config->Homing/Limits. Make sure to wire the home switches on separate input terminals (i.e. X home switch on IN1, Y home switch on IN2, etc). You can add the limit switches to any of the IN terminals, even on the same IN terminals where the home switches are located.

Check out this video on how to wire multiple switches on a single terminal.

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20

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20

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[575] my axises X,Y,Z will all light green along with my soft limit switch button. When hitting REF ALL HOME no axis move and all my DROs go back to ZERO

Are you trying to use the MPG (tab), or the keyboard for jogging the motors? You mention 0,0,0, are you trying to home the machine with the "ref all home"?

If you cannot move the motors with the keyboard, check if the jog is enabled.

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[596] I have my motors and limit switches working correctly but I am unable to get any movement from the 'jog step' so that I can set 0,0,0. What should I check

Yes Mach3 is a great program. Our 3 axis is 6'X12'X3'using all BYCNC components (incl. redsprout)

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I just bought the 3 axis w/heavy gantry, will Mach 4 run well with this, and how large can I go with the cut area

If you purchased a 220 volt VFD (Variable Frequency Drive), you will need to use a 220 volt outlet. A VFD that has an input voltage rating of 220 volts will not work with 110 volts being applied to the VFD. We do sell 110 volt VFDs but you will also need a spindle that pairs with the 110 volt VFD.

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Good morning, we purchased the vfd with 220v but here in south america the standard is 110v, will it work? or should I adapt one power outlet to 220v

Yes Mach3 is a great program. Our 3 axis is 6'X12'X3'using all BYCNC components (incl. redsprout)

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I JUST BOUGHT THE 3 AXIS W/HEAVY GANTRY, WILL MACH 4 RUN WELL WITH THIS, AND HOW LARGE CAN GO CUT AREA

The settings that will have to be change will be your steps per inch in motor tuning (mach 3), or settings/axes(planetCNC). But we do not have the actual numbers/specs that will fit your 10 TPI 5 start lead screw, here is a tutorial video which explains how to get the exact numbers you need! (

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On the Book Build: I'm changing the 13TPI 1/2" lead screw with the 1/2" 10 TPI Acme screw with the anti backlash nut. This is for the Z axis only. What should I know about installing it and what are the numbers I need to plug into the motor tuning area.

Changing your lead screws from a tight to a lose lead will definitely make your machine move faster as long as your stepper motors can handle the new torque that the lead screws will impose.

Here is an example of a speed change from one lead screw to another:
- Existing constants in the example: Stepper Motor steps 200, microstepping 1/8 making the total steps 200 * 8 = 1600.
- Old lead screw: 1/2" allthread = 13 threads per inch (UNC)
- New Lead Screw: 1/2" 5 starts, 10 TPI = 10 / 5 = 2 turns per inch

Old lead screw would achieve a steps per inch of:
1600 / (1 inch / 13 turns) = 20,800 steps per inch (You can also express the calculation as 1600 * 13 = 20,800 steps/inch)

New lead screw would achieve a steps per inch of:
1600 / (1 inch / 2 turns) = 3200 steps per inch

You can see that the new lead screw requires far fewer steps to get to the same length of travel. If you maintained the same velocity for both examples, the new lead screw would travel the same distance 13/2 = 6.5 times faster. So, if your velocity was say 10 ipm, your new velocity would be 65 ipm. That would translate to far fewer burned edges and longer end mill life!

Just remember, confirm that your motors will be able to handle the new lead screw. You will need to reduce the steps/inch causing the motor torque to increase quite a bit, so you should be fine.

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I want my cnc to move quicker. I want to update my lead screws. will this make my cnc move quicker on all 3 axis. If it would which lead screw is better 2 turns per inch or 5 turns per inch.

It seems to be getting some kind of interference or a short within the wiring or communication, try jogging the motors in the software without anything wired to the board. Then add one motor at a time to see if there is a short within your wiring or a faulty driver/motor.
If the USB breakout board continues to move the x-axis with no motors or driver wired to it, please email customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for a replacement or further troubleshooting.

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I am using USB breakout board with planet-cnc software. When I enable jogging keyboard x axis starts to move by itself (whether keyboard connected of not). When I press stop - it stops for a moment and then starts to move again. What could that be? Tried to reinstall software - did not help.

I looked at a YouTube video and figured out the configuration for the motor mounts.

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Still working on GreenBull 5x10 assembly. Putting together the Z axis my motor mounts don't like the video, so I don't know which one goes where and in what orientation?

The motors could be wired incorrectly causing them to lock up. Make sure to check the wiring to make sure the X and Y are connected to the correct terminals.

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When Blacktooth is powered on the motors get power but will not turn. What should I do?