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Question #: 6931

Question: I JUST BOUGHT THE 3 AXIS W/HEAVY GANTRY, WILL MACH 4 RUN WELL WITH THIS, AND HOW LARGE CAN GO CUT AREA

Current Solution

Yes Mach3 is a great program. Our 3 axis is 6'X12'X3'using all BYCNC components (incl. redsprout)

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Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • I just bought the 3 axis w/heavy gantry, will Mach 4 run well with this, and how large can I go with the cut area

    Yes Mach3 is a great program. Our 3 axis is 6'X12'X3'using all BYCNC components (incl. redsprout)

    Click the link to respond:
    I just bought the 3 axis w/heavy gantry, will Mach 4 run well with this, and how large can I go with the cut area

  • I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.

    Modifying the Z-axis to accommodate a larger motor will be a worth while task and is possible, however we have not calibrated the z-axis therefore using the 1600 Steps-per inch in the motor tuning on our machine in our shop. We have not noticed any significant depth increments from not calibrating the z-axis but only from zeroing the z axis too close to the material. Also in your design did you specify the actual depth and the length of tool (end mill/ bit) that you are using?

    Click the link to respond:
    I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.

  • What tolerance can I expect from your largest cnc machine and the laser cutter? Also, what depth can I get on the z axis?

    The largest CNC machine we make at this time (12/04/2015) is the GreenBull 6'x12' model. This model has 2 options for Z-axis travel.

    The short-z option has a total Z travel of 5.75 inches. From that you would subtract the length of the end mill used and the thickness of the spoil board to determine the maximum material thickness. (Example: If the end mill extends 1.25" from the collet and the spoil board is .75", then the material could be up to 5.75 - 1.25 - 0.75 = 3.75 inches in thickness). This is good for most sheet-type materials.

    The long-z option, used mainly for large 3D carvings, requires a custom frame and allows for up to 36" of travel.

    The tolerance of our machines, like any machine, depends on several variables. The major variables include the manufacturing tolerance, the type of machine control used, the precision of assembly, the thoroughness of maintenance, and the initial and ongoing calibration of the machine. Because we sell kits only most of these variables are outside our control. Therefore, we are hesitant to guarantee a certain level of tolerance for an end user. However, in our experience, tolerances of .001" are readily achievable with our machines.

    Click the link to respond:
    What tolerance can I expect from your largest cnc machine and the laser cutter? Also, what depth can I get on the z axis?

  • can I purchase just the parallel controller board? I purchased the usb option 4 axis combo and would like to also try the system with my parallel port computer. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated; my goal is to implement mach4.
  • I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

    Considering enlarging the machine, might have its down sides do to the structural integrity of the scratch build machine. Primarily by making the width longer it will start to sag in the center, which will lead to having to redesign the gantry to be more structurally rigid to support the added length. Which then will increase the weight and height of your gantry to support the add size, which will always end up to creating a larger CNC.

    We usually do not recommend modifying the scratch build CNC, due to the very limited capabilities, and the structural design of the scratch build. We also do not recommend using longer than 48" ACME screw/leadscrew due to the increasing chance of warping and bending in the ACME screws/leadscrew in the given length.
    We do recommend modifying the CNC machines we sell to accommodate the added requests that some of our customers desire, but you will be limited to the width of the gantry with our machines.

    Click the link to respond:
    I've read your book and I'm looking to purchase the hardware kit with DVD as well as an electronics kit. I would like my machine to have a working area of at least 24" wide by 48" long. Can I just make the bed (and gantry) wider to accommodate larger priceslike 30"x60"? If so what electronics kit would you recommend?

  • I am using Windows 10 and my Shopbot PRT 4g uses Shopbot's proprietary software https://www.shopbottools.com/support/control-software. How can I determine if the 4th axis you offer will be compatible with my machine?

    Generally, you’ll need to check what control software will need to be used with the CNC router. Our machines use industry standard electronics and control software that is nonproprietary so you can use just about any software out there with our machines.

    Specifically, what software are you planning on using?

    Additional Information:
    dear Sir,
    I'm searching for the best one,I think that I have to learn more about that in order to be able to make the right decision.

    Additional Information:
    If you are using a computer running Microsoft Windows, then I would recommend using Mach3 or Mach4. If you prefer Linux, then LinuxCNC is the best control software in my opinion.

    Click the link to respond:
    I am using Windows 10 and my Shopbot PRT 4g uses Shopbot's proprietary software https://www.shopbottools.com/support/control-software. How can I determine if the 4th axis you offer will be compatible with my machine?

  • I AM INTERESTED IN THE 3 AXIS COMBO USB OPTION. NOTICE YOU ENDORSE PLANET-CNC FOR USE WITH THIS BUT WILL MACH3 INTERFACE WELL BEAK OUT BOARD?
  • I am building a cnc router with twin ball screws on the long axis and I will have a rotary axis as well. I need a 5 axis breaker board using only 4 axis total. Can you help me?

    Yes, we can make a redLeaf system that has all 6A drivers for use with the 651 oz-in motors. We can also wire the electronics in a way that two of the drivers will use the pins of the same axis so that axis will drive two drivers and motors.

    Click the link to respond:
    I am building a cnc router with twin ball screws on the long axis and I will have a rotary axis as well. I need a 5 axis breaker board using only 4 axis total. Can you help me?

  • I am building the 24" x 48" machine from the original book and i was wondering if anyone can provide me with the actual cutting area possible with that machine.

    The cutting area is 20" x 40" for the book machine. This area is determined by the 2'x4' sheets that make up the bed of the machine. You can increase this area if you use larger sheets and adjust the gantry width by the same difference of the width of the sheets.

    You can also use the plans from Woodsmith magazine to build a larger machine.
    https://www.woodsmith.com/article/build-a-cnc-router-for-your-own-shop/

    Click the link to respond:
    I am building the 24" x 48" machine from the original book and i was wondering if anyone can provide me with the actual cutting area possible with that machine.

  • Is there a version of the pick and place machine with larger pcb area? 5.75 by 15.25 inches isn't quite enough, perhaps 9 by 15.25.

    Not at this time, however, we are in development of a more advanced version of our pick and place machine with a larger pcb area. More details to come early next year (2017)

    Click the link to respond:
    Is there a version of the pick and place machine with larger pcb area? 5.75 by 15.25 inches isn't quite enough, perhaps 9 by 15.25.

  • I need a resource, we bought 2 redfly systems and mach 4, We put one motor on for the x axis but cannot get it move. Can you direct us to some tutorial?

    Could you specify which breakout board you have? If you have a parallel port version, be sure that you have purchased the "legacy" parallel port version from Mach4. If this proves not to be the problem, please feel free to email us directly at techsuport@buildyourcnc.com or call 281-815-7701 for troubleshooting instructions.

    Click the link to respond:
    I need a resource, we bought 2 redfly systems and mach 4, We put one motor on for the x axis but cannot get it move. Can you direct us to some tutorial?

  • I bought an used machine that need work how can I find the model. The owner said, he used this site for parts and manual.

    If you purchased a machine that was used and you don't know which mode it is, you can browse our models here:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/milling

    Click the link to respond:
    I bought an used machine that need work how can I find the model. The owner said, he used this site for parts and manual.

  • I am interested in the 3 axis combo USB option. I notice you endorse the Planet-CNC for use with this but will Mach3 interface well with the USB beak out Board?
  • How can I convert from Xylotex to yours, four axis with limit switches. Have parallel PC and steppers on machine.

    Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

    Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

    A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

    Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

    User response:
    Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
    Thank you.

    buildyourcnc response:
    On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

    Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

    In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

    There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

    Click the link to respond:
    How can I convert from Xylotex to yours, four axis with limit switches. Have parallel PC and steppers on machine.

  • Just purchased the book "Build Your Own CNC Machine". Can I get hardware and electronics kits and how?

    The electronics (stepper motors, drivers, power supply and interface board) can be found here:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-3axis-425-elcombo

    If your computer cannot connect to the parallel breakout board (the interface card), just make sure to inform us that you need the USB alternative.

    Click the link to respond:
    Just purchased the book "Build Your Own CNC Machine". Can I get hardware and electronics kits and how?

  • MOTOR GOING TWO DIRECTION WHEN JUST PUSH UP. IT WILL GO DOWN AND THEN GOES AGAIN UP WITH THE SAME BUTTON.

    Try slowing your feedrate down and increasing spindle RPMs. End-mills will leave a poor finish if you go too fast. Make sure your cutting depth isn't too much. Maybe the endmill or cutter is blunt? Could it be the feed direction of the cutter? Some materials need to be fed in a certain direction.

    Click the link to respond:
    MOTOR GOING TWO DIRECTION WHEN JUST PUSH UP. IT WILL GO DOWN AND THEN GOES AGAIN UP WITH THE SAME BUTTON.

  • MOTOR GOING TWO DIRECTION WHEN JUST PUSH UP. IT WILL GO DOWN AND THEN GOES AGAIN UP WITH THE SAME BUTTON.

    The wire coming from the CW from the driver. Move it to another pin on the breakout board and set the new pin in software.

    Click the link to respond:
    MOTOR GOING TWO DIRECTION WHEN JUST PUSH UP. IT WILL GO DOWN AND THEN GOES AGAIN UP WITH THE SAME BUTTON.

  • X axis won't move on 5x10 GreenBull, it just shutters unless I manually with my hand give it a push then it will jog. What should I check?

    If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

    Users response:
    I've lowered my acceleration to 1 in the StepCon program and it still shutters when I jog it, anything else I could check?

    Buildyourcnc response:
    IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

    Buildyourcnc response:
    The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

    - Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
    - Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
    - Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
    - Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

    Buildyourcnc response:
    Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

    Users response:
    Problem is now solved, I switched the X and Y at the redFly and got the same problem, so then I undid the wires going to each motor and switched them there and it I had a bad solder point in the X axis connector, thank you for the help

    Buildyourcnc response:
    You're very welcome. We will make sure to thoroughly check the solder points on the cable connectors prior to a redFly delivery.

    Click the link to respond:
    X axis won't move on 5x10 GreenBull, it just shutters unless I manually with my hand give it a push then it will jog. What should I check?

  • Hello, I bought your 110v 2.2kw spindle and vfd. When I turn it on it reaches the full 24000 rpm, but will not let me decrease the speed. How Can I fix this?

    Are you using the control panel (front panel with the speed control knob known as he potentiometer)? Or are you attempting to use the computer to control the speed?

    Additional Information:
    I am using the control panel, however there is no knob on mine, just buttons.

    Click the link to respond:
    Hello, I bought your 110v 2.2kw spindle and vfd. When I turn it on it reaches the full 24000 rpm, but will not let me decrease the speed. How Can I fix this?

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