one of my motors from the blackfoot kit goes back and forth rather than turning, the wiring hasnt changed since i bought it, what could be wrong?

Question #: 13529

Question: one of my motors from the blackfoot kit goes back and forth rather than turning, the wiring hasnt changed since i bought it, what could be wrong?

Current Solution

The motor shaft does not turn, but slides back and forth in an axial motion? Please submit additional information on this page.

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it goes one step then the next step in the other direction so it seems to just vibrate

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It sounds like this could be a bad driver? You can determine if this is the cause by connecting another motor to this driver to see if it still happens to the new motor plugged into that driver. This will either rule out the motor causing this, or if it is the driver.

You can also possibly rule out the driver as well if you change the step and direction wires from another driver to the problem driver.

Make sure you do these steps one at a time. It's best to consider a single variable at a time.

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Other Possible Solutions to this Question

I am attempting to set up limit switches on the 5 axis parallel breakout board that came with my BlackFoot kit. The output pins are driving the motors perfectly, but I can't figure out the input pins. With one lead in the 5V pin and one lead testing the input pins, my multimeter reads 0V for all of the input pins. Shouldn't those circuits be +5V? Where am I going wrong?
When wiring the limit switches to our BoB(breakout board), depending in the older model or our revised version (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/0/), the older version will need the COM (limit switch) connected to 5V and the NO/NC to your input pin, but with our newer version you will use GND(ground instead of 5V) to common and the same for NO/NC but the setup in the mach3/confi/ports&pins/ is still the same.

Here is a tutorial where you can see how to set up the limit switches correctly (with our older parallel BoB): Part 1:(
), Part 2:(
)
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I am attempting to set up limit switches on the 5 axis parallel breakout board that came with my BlackFoot kit. The output pins are driving the motors perfectly, but I can't figure out the input pins. With one lead in the 5V pin and one lead testing the input pins, my multimeter reads 0V for all of the input pins. Shouldn't those circuits be +5V? Where am I going wrong?
I bought longs motor nema 34 stepper motor with 4 powers supply and dm860 from ebay, would you be interested in doing all the wiring for me? I pay you for you time
We attempt to provide as many services as possible to fit the needs of the CNC community. For a quote on a custom job, please email customerservice@buildyourcnc.com and we will be happy to assist you.
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I bought longs motor nema 34 stepper motor with 4 powers supply and dm860 from ebay, would you be interested in doing all the wiring for me? I pay you for you time
Hello. I have bought an RnR Motion Controller and a YL260-A and I have it set up to the AVI from RnR to the VI1 of YL620-A but I'm getting that the RPM varies not like interference but like a drop from max value to min value. What could be happening?
Is the cable between the mach3 USB and the YL260 shielded. If that does not solve the problem, add an induction coil to the cable to reduce any current fluctuations.
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Hello. I have bought an RnR Motion Controller and a YL260-A and I have it set up to the AVI from RnR to the VI1 of YL620-A but I'm getting that the RPM varies not like interference but like a drop from max value to min value. What could be happening?
Since you don't sell the hardware only package for the Blackfoot 4'x8' can you tell me what items I should look for for the chain sprockets, spacers to mount them to the 1/2" rod, and chain? All the other parts I can source from elsewhere
I'm not sure I understand the question. You are looking for spacers or sprockets?

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Nevermind, I found my answer. Thank you
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Since you don't sell the hardware only package for the Blackfoot 4'x8' can you tell me what items I should look for for the chain sprockets, spacers to mount them to the 1/2" rod, and chain? All the other parts I can source from elsewhere
In my 4'x8' Blackfoot rig, there is a maximum wire length of 16" between drivers, breakout board, and power supply as well as a maximum wire length of 10' from drivers to motors. What AWG wires should I use to connect power supply to drivers, drivers to motors, and drivers to breakout board?
What we intend our customers to use for wiring the motors to the drivers will be 4 conductor 20 AWG cable, now for the PSU to Drivers; 16-18 Gauge wire should be used, and drivers to BB(Breakout Board) should be a 24 AWG wires.
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In my 4'x8' Blackfoot rig, there is a maximum wire length of 16" between drivers, breakout board, and power supply as well as a maximum wire length of 10' from drivers to motors. What AWG wires should I use to connect power supply to drivers, drivers to motors, and drivers to breakout board?
[596] I have my motors and limit switches working correctly but I am unable to get any movement from the 'jog step' so that I can set 0,0,0. What should I check
Are you trying to use the MPG (tab), or the keyboard for jogging the motors? You mention 0,0,0, are you trying to home the machine with the "ref all home"?

If you cannot move the motors with the keyboard, check if the jog is enabled.
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[596] I have my motors and limit switches working correctly but I am unable to get any movement from the 'jog step' so that I can set 0,0,0. What should I check
Bought a vlxl from you guys. Great design however since you changed the main gantry support from plastic to wood, the guides for the head do not fit with the given plastic pieces. I do not think I have enough wiggle room in the plastic to drill new holes. I may be able to cut down the aluminum. What do you suggest?
Are you referring to the parts that make up the mount for the nozzle that slides along rail?

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Yes. Because the wood is thicker than the plastic, the holes for the screws that hold the bearings are off.

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Yes, understood. We must have used the wrong CAM file to cut the parts for those pieces. My apologies for that. I would rather send you new pieces poste haste.

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I might just go ahead and try to make them. I already had to make one piece that was missing. However, if you think you can get them here by Thursday, I can just go ahead and put the body together. If you do plan on sending them, I also need three more M 8 x 16 mm screws. Also still looking for a mini air compressor for the assist. Overall, the design is great and I'm enjoying putting it together.

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Thank you for the kind words. I will send it anyway and check with Sandra (the current shipper) if Thursday is possible. Just to confirm, the parts related to the steps 46 to 52 in the Vertical Laser XL instructions. Correct? There is a single screw that tightens the bearings onto the rails. This screw is located at the center of the assembly. I'm sure you did this already, but it deserves a mention just in case somebody else has this issue. Make sure that the screw is all the way loose to see if it still doesn't fit. Also worth mentioning, make sure not to tighten it too much as it is very easy to crack the plexiglass. The screw creates a very high force on this assembly.

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Yes. I think you should revisit your plexi cut sheets. The top two holes that hold the laser head from step 47 we're not drilled. I had to drill those. The part from step 48 was not included so I modified a different piece to make it. Also, the centerpiece from step 32, was not included. I ended up making one from plexi but I suggest machining it from aluminum.

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That is odd. I will definitely take a look. That doesn't sound right at all.

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But, once again, great design so far. I much prefer putting it together myself. Ill start working on the body.

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Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

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Hello, I was able to adjust and get the head on track.

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Excellent!

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I ended up just using a 2 nut system to secure the tensioner. The one I made cracked so that's why I suggested a machined Al.

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That makes sense.

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Hi Patrick, I also seem to have gotten some old or mis-cut parts -- holes don't line up in step 31, slot missing in step 36, and so on. I sent you an email last Friday with more details (subject "Order 41101"). Since then we realized that the y axis rails for step 37 are also cut too long and will need to be cut down by a few inches. That's as far as we've gotten so far, so no idea what else is lurking.

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I've copied my last comment to a new question to keep from cluttering up this thread; don't know yet if I'm also going to hit the issues with steps 46-52.
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Bought a vlxl from you guys. Great design however since you changed the main gantry support from plastic to wood, the guides for the head do not fit with the given plastic pieces. I do not think I have enough wiggle room in the plastic to drill new holes. I may be able to cut down the aluminum. What do you suggest?
I have a Blackfoot 4x4 v2 chain drive. my Y plate is broken . do you sell just the Y plate or can I buy just the Y plate spec plan? I love this machine Its great. my name is Jeff Krug I bought the complete package and electronics from you guys. thanks
Sure, email me at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com and I will send you a replacement for a minimal fee. I now use HDPE for that part. The HDPE holds up much better.
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I have a Blackfoot 4x4 v2 chain drive. my Y plate is broken . do you sell just the Y plate or can I buy just the Y plate spec plan? I love this machine Its great. my name is Jeff Krug I bought the complete package and electronics from you guys. thanks
[575] I have my probe conected and have checked continuity but my probe does not show to be working. What else could be wrong?
Try the probe connected between the input and DCM with just wires connected to those terminals. When you short the two wires, you should see the change in the diagnostic screen.

Make sure that the probe configuration is correct:
Config -> ports and pins -> inputs tab
on the probe line, make sure the pin number matches the IN number on the controller. Make sure that the port number is 3. And finally, make sure the active low is set correctly. Toggle the active low to toggle the normally open and normally closed state of the probe.

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Nothing changes in the diagnostic screen, however the Digitize led is lit. One wire on in4 the other on DCM. If I were to put a multi-meter to any of the pins would there show any voltage?
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[575] I have my probe conected and have checked continuity but my probe does not show to be working. What else could be wrong?
I bought Nema 24 motors and driver package with usb board. What do i need to have more speed? Cant even jog past 25 ipm without the motor stalling (not having enough torgue)
We recommend checking the dip switch settings on your drivers, having the correct microstepping/amp settings along with the steps/unit will help the motors run as effective as possible.
This is a default parameter that we use while we test our motors:
Driver dip switch settings will be at a 1/16 microstepping and 2.7amp (11001100) for x/y-axis and the z-axis will be at 1/4 microstepping and 2.7amp (10101100).

In planet-cnc with increasing the motor speed, you will have to modify the settings in planet-cnc (File/settings/setup) you will modify the initial speed, maximum speed, and the acceleration.
X/Y-axis step/unit: 1422.22 initial speed:500 maximum speed:750 acceleration:25
Z-axis step/unit: 1600 initial speed:100 maximum speed:300 acceleration:25
The initial speed and maximum speed will have to be roughly tested and adjusted per application.
Make sure to adjust the JOG slide bard underneath the axis controls on screen to about 750, to compensate for your x/y-axis adjustments. If left alone the speed will max out at the default setting.

Here is a video tutorial to calculate the steps required depending on your mechanical linear motion components. (
)
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I bought Nema 24 motors and driver package with usb board. What do i need to have more speed? Cant even jog past 25 ipm without the motor stalling (not having enough torgue)
I have two nema 34 motors on my gantry and ordered a hex inverter, now I need to wire it correctly. What type of wiring hardware do I need and I will need a wiring diagram also. Please help.
Have you considered reversing the A and B coils on one of the motors to the drivers? This will cause the motor to spin in the opposite direction. This is the easiest method. Using the HEX inverter is a more complex method and not recommended for simple driving tasks.
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I have two nema 34 motors on my gantry and ordered a hex inverter, now I need to wire it correctly. What type of wiring hardware do I need and I will need a wiring diagram also. Please help.
I have two nema 34 motors on my gantry and ordered a hex inverter, now I need to wire it correctly. What type of wiring hardware do I need and I will need a wiring diagram also. Please help.
Have you considered reversing the A and B coils on one of the motors to the drivers? This will cause the motor to spin in the opposite direction. This is the easiest method. Using the HEX inverter is a more complex method and not recommended for simple driving tasks.
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I have two nema 34 motors on my gantry and ordered a hex inverter, now I need to wire it correctly. What type of wiring hardware do I need and I will need a wiring diagram also. Please help.
I have a 4x8 CNC and would like to cut my own parts for the Blackfoot. What is the price for the plans and the electronics ?
The available options for the blackFoot, is only structural components with hardware, and structure components/hardware with electronic components.
However we currently do not have any plans available for public use/distribution.
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I have a 4x8 CNC and would like to cut my own parts for the Blackfoot. What is the price for the plans and the electronics ?
I bought your 3 axis combo and need to know what name brand is the motors and their ounces and the drivers
Surely you know the brand motors you sold me?
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I bought your 3 axis combo and need to know what name brand is the motors and their ounces and the drivers
The relay doesn't have a A+ B - it has signal in god. 5v. / 0 S P. This has to go to my USB motion card wiring shows v+ goes to top of coil no number and comes out the bottom to #2 the relay I got from you is not that simple
The relay is only used for devices like routers, spindles, coolant, mist, etc. The relay works like an automatic switch and will allow current to pass when the relay is engaged.
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The relay doesn't have a A+ B - it has signal in god. 5v. / 0 S P. This has to go to my USB motion card wiring shows v+ goes to top of coil no number and comes out the bottom to #2 the relay I got from you is not that simple
I bought and downloaded about 2 years ago, recently my PC that I use for my CNC crashed and now have to reinstall Mach3 but the license download has since expired. What I need to do to activate the software?
I can send you a new license. All you need to do is email me at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com and state the name the license is under and I will send you another license.
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I bought and downloaded about 2 years ago, recently my PC that I use for my CNC crashed and now have to reinstall Mach3 but the license download has since expired. What I need to do to activate the software?
I bought a, 3-Axis NEMA23 CNC Kit (36V/9.7A/382oz-in/KL-4030.but dont know how to set the dip switches on my drivers. The place I bout the kit from isent very good and support.
That driver (not purchased here) is a standard 3.0 amp driver that will have the dip switch settings on the top of the driver. You will need to determine the amp rating of you motor for the scheme that you wire your motor to the driver (bipolar parallel is recommended in most circumstances but can depend on your power supply output). Check the stepping motor datasheet for your motor to determine this amp rating.

The other set of switches will be configure the microstepping. This will depend on your mechanical setup (i.e. lead screw, rack and pinion, roller chain, timing belt, etc.) and the specifications of such mechanical parts.

This general formula (which can be searched using the Customer Service Live with many examples): step/inch = (natural motor steps * desired microsteps) / (mechanical travel for one motor rotation)

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I bought a, 3-Axis NEMA23 CNC Kit (36V/9.7A/382oz-in/KL-4030.but dont know how to set the dip switches on my drivers. The place I bout the kit from isent very good and support.
I got the plans and hardware from you guys and im almost ready for the stepper motor part of this build. what size motors are good to use for this build? the size of cnc will be 2x4 when finish or what size will not work? thanks
We recommend our electronics combo for the scratch build kit, which you can find on our site here: https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-3axis-425-elcombo. This is our standard general purpose 3 axis electronics system, and includes (3) NEMA 24 425 oz-in stepping motors, (3) Drivers (3.0Amp 24-40 Volts, with 1-1/64 microstepping), (1) 36v 8.8a Power Supply, (1) Interface Board either USB or Parallel. (The USB version requires PlanetCNC software; the parallel interface board gives you a variety of options, Mach3 being one popular choice.)
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I got the plans and hardware from you guys and im almost ready for the stepper motor part of this build. what size motors are good to use for this build? the size of cnc will be 2x4 when finish or what size will not work? thanks
I have your nema 24 motors using the 36v power supply. Should I use the Bipolar series for the wiring the motors since I am using the 36 volt ad not a 24v power supply?
When connecting our power supply, no matter if it is 24 or 36 volts with our drivers/motors, you should always use bipolar parallel. This will allow you to have the best torque at higher speeds.
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I have your nema 24 motors using the 36v power supply. Should I use the Bipolar series for the wiring the motors since I am using the 36 volt ad not a 24v power supply?