If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X axis stepper motor stalls and shutters when coming from a stand still and won't move without a push by hand. I took the chains off and spun the motor fine with out a load. When I have the chain hooked up I can move the machine back and forth fine by hand, with no hang ups or anything, but when I try to have the motor move the machine it doesn't and just spins out. Any suggestions?

This is a good video on how to do a vacuum table

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Do you have any videos or plans for how to make a strong table for a large CNC router? I saw the torsion box videos but would like some more guidance on how to build just a good table.

When you press the x-axis limit switch, does the LED emit light?

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I currently have my whiteant build complete. But when I go to print the 20mm x 20mm box I seem to be having issues. The Z axis does not seem to move. Also the X axis hits the limit and does not move of of it. What is the best way to trouble shoot this issue?

We are currently working on a relay board that will connect to USB breakout board, and the router/spindle for both the on/off function. Unfortunately we still do not have it completed or ready to be placed on our website, but it is in the final stages of testing. Please check back regularly for updated stock!

Here is a link to a tutorial for a DIY relay circuit:

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I AM PUTTING TOGETHER THE BLACKFOOT AND USING A PORTER CABLE ROUTER. CONFUSED ON HOW TO RELAY ROUTETR WITH USB BOARD. IS THERE ANOTHER SWITCH THAT GOES BETWEEN BOARD ROUTER SO PLANET CNC CAN TURN PERHAPS VACUUM OFF?

We are currently working on a relay board that will connect to USB breakout board, and the router/spindle for both the on/off function. Unfortunately we still do not have it completed or ready to be placed on our website, but it is in the final stages of testing. Please check back regularly for updated stock!

Here is a link to a tutorial for a DIY relay circuit:

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I am putting together the Blackfoot and I am using a porter cable router. I am confused on how to relay the routetr with the USB board. is there another relay switch that goes between the USB board and the router so that planet CNC can turn the router and perhaps the vacuum on and off?

You will need to build the table unit for your machine. There are instructions on how to do this at the bottom of the product page here, https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-blackFoot-v4
There is no estimate on how much this will cost though, since there are too many variables involved to do this.

- PC with parallel port and USB port
- 20awg stranded wires for the motors - http://www.buildyourcnc.com/electronicscombo.aspx
- 18awg stranded wires for power supply to drivers
- 24awg stranded wires for breakout board to drivers
(location and spacing of components varies from one person to another, so we do not provide cables/wires)
- General purpose extension cord (cut the female end off) to provide power to power supply
- USB cable to power breakout board
- Parallel cable to communicate to breakout board
- Router
- (optional - instead of router) Spindle with power inverter http://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx
- (if purchasing spindle with inverter) General purpose extension cord (240v) (cut the female end off) to provide power to power inverter
- End Mill(s) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/ProductsEndMills.aspx
- CAD, and/or CAD-CAM software (to produce geometry, machine operations, and g-code) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx
- CNC control software (to read g-code and control machine) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx

This answer is applicable to most of our machines with the exception of the greenLean and the blueChick since those machines are equipped with a table structure.

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I just wanted to know what I can expect to pay to build the blackFoot 4'x8' CNC machine, excluding computer, software and router? Is the kit complete or do I have to purchase additional items to finish?

I would highly recommend a spindle and VFD rather than a router.

Spindles:
- Have a far longer life longer than a router. You will probably go through a few routers before the end of the spindle's life.
- Are quieter than routers
- And the water cooled spindles we stock do not blow the chips into the air. Chips are much easier to capture with or without a dust removal system.

You can find our spindles here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx

Once you get your first spindle, you will never go back to routers. Routers are great for handrouting work, but not the best for continuous CNC milling.

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Hi there, I have a cnc table that I built but I am looking for a higher powered router because I am using the table for flattening slabs with a large straight bit. Would you have any recommendations for the type of router I should buy? Also do you sell large bits for flattening slabs?

BYCNC Response:
Please send a photo of the bolts and assembly so we can determine the problem. Thanks.

User Response:
The holes on the Dremel holder are 0.442" and the bolt heads are 0.483". Picture will be sent. In the picture note that the left bolt has been ground down.

BYCNC Response:
You were sent incorrect fasteners due to a vendor change. We will be shipping the correct parts to you immediately, and thank you for letting us know about this mistake.

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I JUST RECEIVED MY WHITE ANT AND STARTED TO DO SOME BASIC ASSEMBLY. NOTICE THAT THE 1/4 X 20 BOLTS WITH PHILLIPS HEAD NOT FIT IN NOTCHES CUT FOR THEM - INSTANCE, ON DREMEL MOUNT. AM SUPPOSED BUY DIFFERENT HEADS, GRIND ALL DOWN, OR ROUTE OUT BIGGER NOTCHES. 3" BARELY Z-AXIS MOTOR

No, the 3.1 version will not support slaving the X axis. You will either need to wire the two x axis driver to the same X signal pins, or use the DDCS v4.1 which does support slaving an axis.

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[823] I plan to use a DDCS stand alone controller for a CNC router build which will have two stepper motors on the x axis, one on Y and one on Z. Will the 3.1 version handle two motors synched on the X axis or will I need the 4.1 version?

In all CNC electronics configurations, you will need the motor paired with its own driver.

If two motors/drivers are intended for a single axis and the motors need to turn at the same rate and in the same direction, then the two drivers for these motors should be connected to the same signal wires from the breakout board (step (CP) and direction (CW)) signal wires.

If the motors need to turn in opposite directions, then either one driver will need to have the direction signal inverted, or resolve the opposite direction through a change in the mechanical drive train (i.e. flip the rack on a rack and pinion configuration, or in a roller chain setup, have the chain ride along the opposite side of the drive sprocket).

How do I go about purchasing a redleaf system with 4 drivers, where the (y) and (a) driver are connected to the same signal from the breakout board? I'd also need them to rotate in opposite directions.

The redLeaf webpage contains a purchase option for an extra motor and driver. We can setup the redLeaf system uniquely so it conforms to your application (i.e. motors running in opposite directions).

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I've built a machine where the y axis has (2) 425oz motors, x axis has (1) 425oz. motor, and the z axis also has (1) 425oz motor. Would it be better to purchase a redleaf system with 4 drivers? or can I just connect both y axis motors to the same driver for a total of 3 drivers?

Only our greenBull CNC machines will be able to use the long Z-axis, due to structural construction of the greenBull over the blackFoot.
The height from the table top to the bottom of the gantry is: 4.25"

Both the maximum cutting height and diameter, will be dependent on the specific end mill/router bit you plan on using, since they can vary in length.
The maximum cutting height (useful to engrave or cut material)is: with spoil-board 3.875", without a spoil-board is 4.625"
The maximum diameter will (estimated) is: 3"

Specifically dealing with our greenBull long Z-axis CNC machines, depending on how you specifically design the table you can have more cutting height and a larger diameter clearance. If you only create a frame for the machine with a hollow center(adjustable midsection), allowing you to have a greater clearance.
Similar table image here: (https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-greenBull-v4-6X#prettyPhoto/5/)

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Planning to Buy Greenbull or Blackfoot 4'x 8' Long "Z" Axis. My questions are: what is the hight between the table and the Gantry ? what maximun Z can useful engraving? if I instal a rotating 4 Axle. what maximun diameter can be useful.

That is a simple loose connection. How the direction connection works. There is a high state (5v), and a low state (0V or ground). If the down operation is the high state and the connection is not good, the connection could go to a low state and then go in the opposite direction.

Check the connection and confirm it is secure.

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My Z axis motor changes direction in the middle of an operation. It starts out correctly, than in the middle of an operation the Z axis goes in a negative operation instead of the positive direction. When I reset after this having the Z axis go down it goes up, and then asked it to go up it also goes up?

This turned out to be a side-effect of the "foot logo" now being bored entirely through the gantry legs. On first inspection this made the two legs identical. I didn't notice that the hole for the X axis axle was bored out to 5/8, but only on one side. Not too surprisingly, I installed them on reverse sides.

Pulling the legs off and swapping the side they were mounted on fixed the problem. I would suggest adding a note to the building instructions page to avoid this annoying problem.

On the good side, the X axis now rolls much more freely on its rails after un-mounting and re-mounting the legs.

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Good catch and thank you for the information. We will clarify this on the video.

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At 3:29 in the video "blackToe version 4 2x4 step 9 0001" it shows you inserting a bearing into the hole that the x axis shaft exits the router. That hole is 3/8ths on my parts. No 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bearing came with my kit, but I do have a 5/8 OD, 1/4 ID bearing. Should I bore out the hole to 5/8 so I can insert those bearings?

It generally does not matter if it is longer at the other end as long as the lead screw provides the desired travel for that axis. The lead screw will only need to be long enough for the travel, plus any structure and lead-nut positioning.

For example:
- The motor that will turn the lead screw will need to be mounted at some position (generally at one end of the axis). In many cases, this positioning will be mounted where some of the lead screw will not be used (the lead nut will not be able to moved close to the coupling of the lead screw to the motor shaft). Add some of the length of the lead screw to be inserted into the coupling.

- If the lead screw will contain bearings at either end of the travel, that portion of the mechanical assembly will need to be considered in the lead screw length.

- The lead-nut will need to be mounted in a position on a structural member of the part that is to move. The distance from the part of the structure that will extend closest to the motor will have some distance to the position of the lead nut. This distance will need to be added to the lead screw length.

Add these discrepancies to the length of the lead screw and the travel length and you will have the final length.

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How to determine lead screw length needed. My Thomson 1 1:4 rails are 60 inches long roughly for the router I’m building. I know I have to have it long enough to couple up with the stepper motor of course but does it matter if it’s a little long on the other end

Has the tube functioned properly prior to this issue?

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I am having issues with the laser firing. Seems like there is an arc in the end of the tube where the elctrode is but i am not sure if i am doing something wrong.

The rods where the drive sprockets are located (typically the X-axis) are not flat enough, so that the set screws hold the rod securely. Taking a file tool to make the surface where the set screws can hold the rod in place a bit flatter.
On the Y-axis, make sure you have the idler sprocket in the correct place being dual nuts on top corner (away from the motor (http://buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-bluechick-v4#prettyPhoto/1/) and (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/bluechick%204-3%20instructions%2013_700_sm.jpg)) to have the sprockets line up perfectly.

The #40 drive sprocket will not work with the #25 chain sent with the kit.

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blueChick v4.2. The #25 drive sprockets occasionally come loose especially on the y-axis. The screws are barely on the shaft when I line up the sprocket to the idler gears. Lots of Loctite or should I try the #40 drive sprocket?

CamBam specifically creates the g-code (machining operations) instructions to be loaded into Mach3. Make sure in your CamBam g-code file parameters, you are using the Mach3 post processor. If you have already done this, let me know. If you are not sure how to do this, let me know.

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I am having trouble connecting the cambam program with my Mach3 to my 4X8 Blackfoot CNC machine. Where can I get help on this issue. Have had my machine since 2015 and have not been able to use it. Thank you

The drivers have quite a bit of protection, so you probably won't ruin anything. You motors are jumping and that is just the motors engaging from getting power from the power supply.

There could be many reasons your motors don't turn. Consider these troubleshooting tips:

- If you are using our parallel breakout board, make sure that the step pins are set for active low (config -> Ports and Pins -> Motor Outputs -> the steps pins should be enabled and set active low)

- The parallel breakout board is powered (connect the USB to the computer using a USB cable)

- In Mach3, make sure you have jog enabled (a little green button at thelower middle of the page in the program run screen).

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DS26

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If I wired my stepper motors incorrectly what parts of the electronics will be ruined? When I turn on the power, my motors jump like they are supposed to but for some reason, the G-code doesn't seem to be moving from Mach 3 to the motors. Any help would be appreciated. Do I need to order new electronics or just part of the system? Thanks