[ Log In ]
[ Register ]
NEW: CNC Router PLANS Available for all of our Newest CNC Models!! Click here to "Design Your CNC".

Question #: 14286

Question: I am having issues with the laser firing. Seems like there is an arc in the end of the tube where the elctrode is but i am not sure if i am doing something wrong.

Current Solution

Has the tube functioned properly prior to this issue?

Respond:

Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • connected 625oz motor using wire diagram, but motor sounds like it's skipping, am I doing something wrong or is this part DOA? I tried every combo of wiring up, some errored the controller, but the ones that 'worked' still sound terrible. Where do I go from here? - thx! -james

    Are you referring to the 425 oz-in motor? How many motors and drivers have you connected? If you have connected more than one, are they all sounding the same?

    Additional Information:
    it's the 650oz motor. but I think I've got the problem solved. The motor tuning was way out of whack.. I hooked up the smaller 425oz motors and they were ALSO acting funny so I knew it was not them. Software.

    I'm still trying to find out what the best speeds are, so there is still some stutter and skipping. thanks for the quick response though, much appreciated.

    -james

    Additional Information:
    You will also want to look at your microstepping. Consider determining your expected mechanical steps per inch and desired jog speed (ipm) and you should have fewer issues. Use the formula: (motor steps * microsteps) / (number of inches of travel in one turn). The ipm for pulley or sprockets should be in the 500-1000 ipm range and for 5 start lead screw, in the 100-200 ipm range. The acceleration can be in the range of 10-40 depending on the mechanics and inertia involved.

    Additional Information:
    If you ask a question here like: what steps per inch should I set my axes? You will get the standard settings for our machines.

    Click the link to respond:
    connected 625oz motor using wire diagram, but motor sounds like it's skipping, am I doing something wrong or is this part DOA? I tried every combo of wiring up, some errored the controller, but the ones that 'worked' still sound terrible. Where do I go from here? - thx! -james

  • If a person wanted a larger laser machine than what is offered would they simply mount a laser on one of the larger machines, or is there a problem with doing this?

    Adding a laser tube and supporting electronics and mirrors to larger milling machines is problematic unless a proper mount is provided, as in the greenBull CNC (https://buildyourcnc.com/item/cnc-machine-laser-spindle-combo-head).

    The existing larger machines (other than the greenBull CNC machine) are designed to be used as milling machines and the laser will not be able to be easily mounted on these machines. Modifications can be done to accomplish this task, but there is quite a bit of effort needed.

    Click the link to respond:
    If a person wanted a larger laser machine than what is offered would they simply mount a laser on one of the larger machines, or is there a problem with doing this?

  • Is there a better manual for the laser engraving controle having problems with the set up of the stepping motors etc

    This "question 12186" could be a good place to house questions on the laser controller. We are in the process of creating thorough video instructions, but please add specific questions by clicking the "submit additional information" and we will answer questions regarding the laser controller with detail.

    Click the link to respond:
    Is there a better manual for the laser engraving controle having problems with the set up of the stepping motors etc

  • Having some repeatability issues on Y axis of the blackFoot CNC Router. doing motor tuning, but also notice the Y axis idler pulley doesn't stand up straight. Bearing seems good, just loose on the bolt. Do i try to shim between bearing to bolt or shim the sides to make it stay up straight?

    First, make sure that the alignment of the roller chain is straight with respect to where the roller chains are affixed at the ends of the gantry. This is of chief importance as there will be a clicking sound if there is no alignment. Also, make sure the idler sprocket can move from side to side to auto-correct on alignment, unless you can fit nuts or shim washers on either side to maintain the perfect position with respect to the alignment of the chain.

    The misalignment of the chain is most likely the reason the idler sprocket is slanted at an angle.

    If you are having repeatibility issues, make sure the drive sprocket is very tight on the motor shaft, and that the set screw is tightened on the flat of the stepper motor shaft. This is the typical culprit if any of the axes are having repeatability problems. It is difficult to determine if the drive sprocket is loose. Make sure to push with a bit of force to determine this.

    Additional Information:
    ok, took the y axis apart. Checked the drive sprocket. it seems tight. Although I did not take it off and put it back on. Checked the chain alignment edge to edge using a straight edge along the y drive rail and no clicking. tightened the chain and seemed to have it now off the same distance to the other side of the Y. I lossened it back up but no noticeable change.
    using Mach3 spindle not running, just a pointer bit in and feed rate 50ipm
    9k line gcode it's off by about .1 to .14 (ran code 4 different times, once in opposite corner of table) 130k gcode it's off 1.3 to 1.5 (ran code 4 different times, once in opposite corner of table). Not sure what to do, using the using the mach3 motor tuning it seems really close, and it's always the Y. should I swap wiring on the x & y drivers to see if problem goes to X?


    Additional Information:
    You can give the swap a try. It would rule out a possible wiring/driver/motor issue. If that doesn't work, we will need to go email so we can see pics to get a clearer understanding of the issue.

    Additional Information:
    So, I couldn't swap X and Y as X has a big honkin' motor. So I swapped the Driver for Y and Z, ran the same 130k line gcode and Y was spot on, but now Z is off. it was only off by .01 but there wasn't as much Z movement as there was Y of course. To me this would point to the driver. What do you think?

    Click the link to respond:
    Having some repeatability issues on Y axis of the blackFoot CNC Router. doing motor tuning, but also notice the Y axis idler pulley doesn't stand up straight. Bearing seems good, just loose on the bolt. Do i try to shim between bearing to bolt or shim the sides to make it stay up straight?

  • Is there a specific process for aligning the x axis on the greenbull? There is mention of it at the end either the rail or gantry installation but I could not find it anywhere.

    If you are referring to aligning the rails so that the rails are perfectly parallel:

    It is important to make sure one rail (a rail at one side of the table) is perfectly aligned first. Do this by fastening one end of the rail to the table (flush with the table edge), then fasten the other end (flush with the table edge). The rail may not be perfectly straight at this point, but that's ok. This process includes the top and bottom rail, fastening and positioning simultaneously.

    You are going to fasten the midpoint of the rail. Get a clamp ready so that you can freeze the rail in place. Look down the rail from one end. This is a good way to determine if the rail has a curve, or is straight. If there is a curve, move the rail midpoint laterally until the rail is straight while looking down the rail from one end of the rail. This may take a couple of people to do, one looks down the rail, the other moves it slightly until it is straight and then clamps the rail. Drill and fasten the midpoint when satisfied. Repeat this process, fastening at the midpoint between screws.

    Now place the gantry on the table with the v-groove bearings resting on the one rail side. Add the next rail to the other side of the table. Position the rail so that it is directly under the other bearings. Make sure the gantry is at the extreme end and fasten the rail at that end. Move the gantry along the and fasten the rail as you move the gantry so the rail auto-positions itself.

    Additional Information:
    Thanks for your answer. So the next step is making certain that the gantry is exactly perpendicular to the x axis. Do you just place a square on the rail and adjust one or both chains as needed?

    Click the link to respond:
    Is there a specific process for aligning the x axis on the greenbull? There is mention of it at the end either the rail or gantry installation but I could not find it anywhere.

  • Patrick, I am having issues with the x axis on the vlxl..very rough movement. What should I adjust? Check the rail spacing or can I modify anything in the software?

    Sounds like a wire may have worked itself loose. Did this just start happening? If so, check for loose terminals with the motor wiring. Did you solder the motor wires to the extended wires that lead to the driver? If not, I strongly suggest these wires be soldered and a heat shrink tubing cover the soldered connection to eliminate the possibility of shorting.

    Additional Information:
    I am just now starting to work with the machine. Was on vacation. It has never moved smoothly on the X. Was hoping to get some phone time with you or Juan tomorrow. All the connections are solid as far as I can tell. Nothing is interfering. I'm wondering if the rail spacing is off. It moves fine when I manually move it.

    Additional Information:
    If it moves smoothly when manually moving it, but the stepper motor runs rough, then it is definitely a motor wire connection. Also, check to make sure the driver is set to 1/16 microstepping and the motor amps is around 5.

    Additional Information:
    What gauge wire did you use for the motor to driver connection?

    Additional Information:
    It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

    Additional Information:
    It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

    Additional Information:
    18 gauge is more than sufficient for this stepper motor wiring. We use 20 gauge stranded wires in the 4 conductor motor cable.

    Additional Information:
    Sometimes wires can get chaffed, or there is a conductivity issue in some wires.I'm wondering if it would be goo to do a test rewiring the motor to the driver, but not putting it into the cable carrier, just to make sure that is the problem.

    Additional Information:
    What do you suggest I do? Just go over the wiring? The 18 is fine for 5.5A? All the switches look right. Set at 1/16. What are the natural steps on this motor?

    Additional Information:
    I’ll check the conductivity on the wires. I can just re-run it with that four conductor. That cable works fine for you guys?

    Additional Information:
    The 4 conductor cable is the only cable we use for these stepper motors. It's a special cable used for motion applications.

    Here is a link to that cable that we sell just to confirm the cable we are discussing:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-cable-wire-20awg-wrcon


    Additional Information:
    Yeah, that’s it. However, I ran the stock File on the laser cutter, the duck, it seems to run fine it’s just when you make the small adjustments with the arrow keys that it’s so rough. The other problem is that the speed on the stock file is way too fast.

    Additional Information:
    Ah, the jogging speed. I did not consider this. You definitely need to reduce the speed when you press the arrow keys.

    The speed when running a job (the file) can be modified in LaserCad.

    Additional Information:
    So, I’ll look into that. Everything is done besides for Putting the tube on and adjusting the mirrors. When are you guys available for a quick phone call?

    Additional Information:
    In LaserCAD, go to the options -> system options -> User parameters. Make sure to click the read button to bring the parameters from the laser controller to the software. Our Key_Move_Speed is 100 and our X/Y_Home_Speed is also 100. I wouldn't go any faster than that. Curious, what are your values for these parameters?

    Additional Information:
    Key speed was set to 200 and XY was at 50. On the duck file on the machine, it says the speed is at 200. How can I import that file to change it?

    Additional Information:
    Much smoother after that change. File is still too fast, though.

    Additional Information:
    In the file, the speed is built into the geometry. You will need to open the file in LaserCAD, select the geometry and modify the speed. Make sure to change the intensity as well to compensate.

    Click the link to respond:
    Patrick, I am having issues with the x axis on the vlxl..very rough movement. What should I adjust? Check the rail spacing or can I modify anything in the software?

  • I am having trouble with my cutting precision. I can cut a 1" box within 0.005" accuracy, but when I try to cut something with a 6" profile, it cuts almost 0.125" heavy. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Dealing with a larger offset when cutting a larger object, try calibrating your machine accordingly (

    ) now you will have to do the last couple of steps a few times to get your machine as accurate as possible.
    Also if this does not correct your issue, try looking at the tightness of your x/y/z - axis chain, bearings, and also your sprocket/rod, the chain must be viewed as a bicycle chain if too tight it might snap when the machine moves but if to loose then it will be off. The rod is not totally flat where the set screws are suppose to hold down the rod, so sanding it to a flatter surface section might fix the offset.

    Additional Information:
    accuracy

    Click the link to respond:
    I am having trouble with my cutting precision. I can cut a 1" box within 0.005" accuracy, but when I try to cut something with a 6" profile, it cuts almost 0.125" heavy. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • THERE HAS BEEN A CELL PHONE BASE INSTALLED IN THE FIRE TOWER. PANELS ARE VERTICAL AND LOCATED ABOUT 75 FEET AT TOP OF UNLIKE SOME TOWERS I HAVE SEEN NO ROUND DISKS BEAMING LIGHTS. NIGHT, TOWER MATERIAL DARK. DOES THIS MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE RELATED HEALTH ISSUES WITH RF EXPOSURE IT POSSIBLE RECEIVE-ONLY TRANSMITTER ?

    There has been a cell phone base installed in the fire tower. The panels are vertical and located about 75 feet at the top of the tower. Unlike some towers I have seen there are no round disks and no beaming lights. At night, the tower and cell phone material are dark. Does this make any difference in any related health issues with RF exposure and is it possible the tower is a receive-only transmitter ?

    Click the link to respond:
    THERE HAS BEEN A CELL PHONE BASE INSTALLED IN THE FIRE TOWER. PANELS ARE VERTICAL AND LOCATED ABOUT 75 FEET AT TOP OF UNLIKE SOME TOWERS I HAVE SEEN NO ROUND DISKS BEAMING LIGHTS. NIGHT, TOWER MATERIAL DARK. DOES THIS MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE RELATED HEALTH ISSUES WITH RF EXPOSURE IT POSSIBLE RECEIVE-ONLY TRANSMITTER ?

  • Hey Patrick where is the video to adjust manufacturers parameters on lasercad? I watched it but can not re-find it. For pulse unit

    The latest LaserCAD video that I have is this one:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/tutorial-trocen-anywells-lasercad-install

    I go over adjusting manufacturers parameters at the end of the video.

    Do you remember another video other than this one?

    Additional Information:
    I also have a video where I calibrate each axis. I go deeper into the manufacturers parameters in this video:



    Let me know if this helps.

    Additional Information:
    I seem to remember one where you did an actual physical measurement to work out the new parameters. Basically the file I put in is coming out much bigger than it should. Also, whenever I reset the settings and put the same values in to double check, it changes them again.

    Additional Information:
    I think the one I just added to this question is it. You may have been writing your response while I was adding this video.

    Additional Information:
    Yes that is the one. My settings should be very similar to yours, yes?

    Additional Information:
    Yes, it will be similar but not exact. If the microstepping is different than mine, the value will be totally different, but that is fine. As long as the nozzle goes where you expect, you will have good X and Y axis values. Remember to do the calibration with point as far apart as possible. That will make the overall calibration much more precise.

    Additional Information:
    The file is still coming out bigger than lasercad says. Says its 65mm and its about 3 times that. Also, X axis is a little joggy again.

    Additional Information:
    If the travel is 3 times farther, then it's going to be 3 times faster as well, so the motor has reached it's speed limit. The value is in steps/mm, so if you divide the value by the manually, see what happens.

    Click the link to respond:
    Hey Patrick where is the video to adjust manufacturers parameters on lasercad? I watched it but can not re-find it. For pulse unit

  • I have NEMA 34 motors for a GreenBull 6x12. After 2 weeks of use, my Y axis motor has developed play in the front but not rear of the motor. Is this a motor defect or has something come loose somewhere? Thanks,

    If there is play within the motor itself, then that motor may be defective. Call us to provide us more detail on this issue.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have NEMA 34 motors for a GreenBull 6x12. After 2 weeks of use, my Y axis motor has developed play in the front but not rear of the motor. Is this a motor defect or has something come loose somewhere? Thanks,

  • the computer is not able to wrk properly with the upgraded laser tube and power board and has an outdated software instilation.

    Is this a CO2 laser tube? CO2 laser tubes are not typically associated with the laser controller. The laser tube is powered by a laser tube power supply which is controlled by a simple digital on/off or PWM signal.

    If you got a higher powered laser tube, then the power supply for the laser tube needs to be correctly wired to the laser controller.

    Click the link to respond:
    the computer is not able to wrk properly with the upgraded laser tube and power board and has an outdated software instilation.

  • I was wondering what the max depth is for something to go into the 40W C02 Laser cutter and engraver with blacktooth

    Hello, I was wondering if the Blactooth laser cutter can engrave in 3d, different depths in the same piece of wood?

    Additional Information:

    Click the link to respond:
    I was wondering what the max depth is for something to go into the 40W C02 Laser cutter and engraver with blacktooth

  • AM NOT SURE HOW TO SET THE Z AXIS TURN ON/OFF LASER WHEN CREATE CODE. KNOW THAT ITS TYPICALLY Z-AXIS MOVEMENT DOES THIS - BUT YOU DONT SHOW ANYTHING HOOKED UP IN PLACE OF AXIS.

    When the z axis is going down, the laser turns on. When the z axis is going up, it turns off. The z axis directions is only a signal that is either 5v or 0v. That determines the direction. In vectric, you will need to set your machining operations with a very very small depth so the time it takes to get to its final depth is a very short time.

    Click the link to respond:
    AM NOT SURE HOW TO SET THE Z AXIS TURN ON/OFF LASER WHEN CREATE CODE. KNOW THAT ITS TYPICALLY Z-AXIS MOVEMENT DOES THIS - BUT YOU DONT SHOW ANYTHING HOOKED UP IN PLACE OF AXIS.

  • Is there a downloadable manual for the usb Mach3 interface board? I'm not sure one came with my Redleaf. Cheers.
  • I am looking at purchasing a blacktooth laser system but after reading some of the post I am unsure if laser power is under software control. Is laser power ( on/off) directly controlled with the off the shelf hardware and software

    The on/off laser control for the blackTooth laser system is controlled by software. Software controls a digital trigger on the laser power supply that turns the laser on and off.

    Our blackTooth works more like a CNC machine where g-code is used as the instructions to cut and engrave. Generally, CNC machines have a z-axis that moves up and down. When the z-axis is moving down, the end mill (cutting tool) is penetrating the surface of the material to be cut. We use this same technique to control the laser on and off. If the z-axis is in the down state, the laser is on. If the z-axis is in the up state, the laser turns off. All of this is automatically generated in the g-code when the machining operations are created in CAM software. This eliminates the need for an expensive laser controller board; however, a traditional laser controller board can be used with our system.

    Click the link to respond:
    I am looking at purchasing a blacktooth laser system but after reading some of the post I am unsure if laser power is under software control. Is laser power ( on/off) directly controlled with the off the shelf hardware and software

  • I HAVE FOLLOWED ALL THE "CNC ELECTRONICS 1 - 9" VIDEOS AND I'M USING ALMOST EXACT SAME COMPONENTS (MOTORS RUN SOUND GOOD) BUT MOTORS ARE RUNING VERY HOT IN JUST 15MIN WITH NO LOAD DONE SOMETHING WRONG OR DO STEPPERS HOT?

    If your motors are hot to the touch, this is normal. Current is being drawn by the motor coils as the motor moves and as the motor stays at a position. If the motor is not using the current in the coils to move (holding it's position), the energy will be translated as heat (rather than motion, sound or light). Even while moving, some of the energy will be lost as heat. Remember that energy cannot be created nor destroyed.

    Click the link to respond:
    I HAVE FOLLOWED ALL THE "CNC ELECTRONICS 1 - 9" VIDEOS AND I'M USING ALMOST EXACT SAME COMPONENTS (MOTORS RUN SOUND GOOD) BUT MOTORS ARE RUNING VERY HOT IN JUST 15MIN WITH NO LOAD DONE SOMETHING WRONG OR DO STEPPERS HOT?

  • If I build a Laser with the components on this site, can I cut the 0.1mm and 0.2mm board? Is it cut in optimal conditions, or if not what you recommend ?!

    What material is the 0.1mm and 0.2mm board?

    Additional Information:
    Steel sheet


    Additional Information:
    Steel Sheet

    Additional Information:
    Thanks for the response. CO2 lasers unfortunately cannot cut metallic materials. Metals are best cut with other types of lasers, or by using oxygen assist. The oxygen assist method is not encourages as the combination or CO2 laser and oxygen is very volatile.

    Additional Information:
    and I can not do this laser to cut the steel plate, but instead of the CO2 tube I put the oxygen tube, or do not I know ?! Do I have a chance in the products on the site to create a laser for 0.1mm and 0.2mm steel sheets?

    Additional Information:
    I can help with an answer, Thanks!

    Additional Information:
    I can help with an answer, Thanks!

    Additional Information:
    Can you help me with an answer? Thank you! **

    Click the link to respond:
    If I build a Laser with the components on this site, can I cut the 0.1mm and 0.2mm board? Is it cut in optimal conditions, or if not what you recommend ?!

  • I PLANTED SEVERAL CONCORD GRAPE VINES DURING THE PAST FEW YEARS. GOT A COUPLE OF VERY TINY BUDS THIS YEAR, BUT THEY DRIED UP AND DIED. WHAT AM DOING WRONG?

    Everyone always assumes they are doing something wrong when a plant fails to perform to their expectations. Grapes need pollinator activity to set viable fruit, but there is a shortage of bee activity throughout the country. When the flower cannot be pollinated by bees, the resulting fruit usually atrophies. It is not your fault, just a shortcoming in nature's network.

    Click the link to respond:
    I PLANTED SEVERAL CONCORD GRAPE VINES DURING THE PAST FEW YEARS. GOT A COUPLE OF VERY TINY BUDS THIS YEAR, BUT THEY DRIED UP AND DIED. WHAT AM DOING WRONG?

  • I have a MK1 board that I just got running and I am having issues. Do you have an MK1 board at your shop that I can send you my G-Code to run? The freexing/zeroing in the middle of the program issue happens even with no step drives attached to the board.

    My apologies for not getting back to you. We always answer the phones during business hours, so I would try that first. Our emails on Monday generally is stacked up as we are closed during the weekend. We can try your g-code here. Please send the g-code to the techsupport@buildyourcnc.com email address and we will test the code to see if it works.

    By the way, do you get movement on the planet-cnc UI screen?

    Additional Information:
    The program starts and runs normal. I have all the correct movement on the mill and the UI screen. Then one of two things happens. It either stops and resets all axis to zero in the middle of the part or it freezes in the middle of the part. When it freezes, it is not moving on the cnc or the UI screen. Sometimes after a freeze it will come up with an 'IO timeout error', but the only way to clear is to unplug USB and start over.
    I will send my settings and g-code files over tonight. Please be sure to load my settings when running the g-code. No movement of the cnc is necessary as the controller will do these issues without power to any drives and just the USB board connected, on my board at least.

    Click the link to respond:
    I have a MK1 board that I just got running and I am having issues. Do you have an MK1 board at your shop that I can send you my G-Code to run? The freexing/zeroing in the middle of the program issue happens even with no step drives attached to the board.