Yes, you can use a conductive metal to serve as a zeroing block for the Z axis. All you need to do is connect the block (conductive metal) to one of the 4 inputs on the controller. The end mill must be connected to the DCM terminal (the GND of the 24V power supply) of the controller. In the inputs dialog box (config-ports and pins-inputs). Under the probe line, enter port 3 and the pin used for the block.

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[575] Hi can I use a zeroing block with mock three interface board and do you have one I can purchase and directions on how to set up

The KL-4030 is a Keling 3.0 amp stepper motor driver. These are generally pretty robust drivers. You mentioned in the question that it worked for one hour. This sounds like it could be a contact issue with the wiring in the terminals. I would recommend that you check all of the connections. The terminals that are used in these drivers have terminals that are easily used incorrectly.

Make sure to open the terminal all the way using a small screw driver. Then insert the exposed wire into the opening and re-tighten the terminal. Make sure of a good connection by tugging on the wires.

Also, check kthe digital wires that connect from the driver to the control board.

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I have a KL-4030 stepper motor driver that I only have about an hour use on it but seems to be bad already. Has anyone out there had the same problem?

Here is how to connect your router to the parallel breakout board through the on-board relay. You will need a spare extension cord. You will need to remove a portion of the outer jacket of the extension cord to expose the white, black and green wires (white = neutral, black = live and green = ground), understanding that the neutral and live create the completed circuit.

See this image of a similar connection. The terminal has the same connections.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/vacuum-pressure-controller-relay-terminals-700.JPG

Image of the relay terminal:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/breakoutboardrelayNONC.PNG

The live/black wire would be cut and one end of the cut would be secured into the P terminal and the other cut end would be secured into the S terminal. The live and ground wire would be uncut and travel from the plug to the router.


Additional Information:
You can also connect other high powered devices to the breakout board using any of the output terminals. You will need to supply extra relays like the one shown here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-breakout-Relays-relay-board-250V-12A-5V

Or you can find SSRs (Solid State Relays) that will accept 5v to drive the relay coil. Make sure the SSR will protect the 5V line from Back EMF as there is a coil in the relay. The one we sell contains a fly-back diode to protect the 5v terminal.

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I have your breakout board with relay parallel port , how can I wire up a regular router to that board so I can control the router

Connect the XD to the Dir, XP to the Step, and the 5V on the Mach3 USB controller to the +5V.

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[575] I have motor control boards that have 4 pin input ( Step, Dir, EN, +5V) how do I connect this USB board?

You can connect the 5V from the Mach3 USB controller to the 5V terminal on the driver, the XP to the Step terminal on the driver and the XD to the Dir terminal on the driver.

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[575] I have motor control boards that have 4 pin input ( Step, Dir, EN, +5V) how do I connect this USB board?

The output current for the Mach3 USB Interface Board is 50mA. These outputs are generally not designed to handle heavy loads like Spindle Governor Relays (SGRs).

If your SGR requires a hefty current. Attempting to directly switch it using just the Mach3 USB Interface Board would not be a good idea. In that case, using your existing C36 rev1.1 board as an intermediary is the way to go. That board can handle higher currents and will act as a buffer, ensuring that the Mach3 USB Interface Board doesn't get overwhelmed.

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[575] How much current can the outputs handle? I want to know if I can directly switch my SGR or if I have to go through the existing C36 rev1.1 board first.

Strictly to the point. Assuming:
-You have a working linuxcnc install with a compatible parallel port
-You have wired Bread-Out Board V5 to the motor drivers so you know which pins are for which signals(watch video tutorials for that on this site)
-You have wired motors to motor drivers (watch video tutorials for that on this site)

a)We need to know the base parallel port addres, for that you need to input on a linux terminal the command:

#lspci -v

You can scroll up and down the result with page up and page down. Look for a "Parallel Port..." line, the value you are looking for is the "I/O Ports at.." Write them down

To get the Base Period Maximun Jitter, go to
applications - cnc - Latency Test

Now you should let that window running for a while, so it calculates an accurate jitter, go watch the tutorial videos for the connections between the Bread-Out Board and the motor controllers.

After its been running for half an hour or so with the machine in use, write down the calculated jitter values, mine was Servo Thread - 39000

Now close the Latency test dialog

b)Go to applications - cnc - stepconfwizard
"START" - Create a new config
Check - Create Desktop Shortcut to config files
Check - Create Desktop Shortcut to start linuxcnc with this config
FORWARD

c)"BASE INFORMATION"
Fill in a Machine Name that suits you
Bluechick is XYZ on inches
Fill in the Base Period Maximun Jitter with the value obtained in "a)"

FORWARD

d)If you watched the tutorials on a) and b) you know the pin numbers for your signals.
Parport Base Address you need to put the value obtained in a), mine was cf00
Output pinout presets I used Sherline

FORWARD
FORWARD

e)Axis X (chain and sprocket axis)
Data for bluechick from build yourcnc
Motor Steps per revolution 200
Microstepping 64 (that if you followed tutorials, change if you have different)
Pulley teeth 1 ; 1
Leadscrew Pitch 0.444444 (that value comes from 1rev / (.25 in * 9 teeth))
Maximun Velocity 10
Maximun Acceleration 0.5
Home location 0.0
Table travel 0.0 to 34.0 (maybe you want to change this later)

Now, you can do "Test this axis" and jog it (move it!) Try to position everything in the middle (you will be doing it axis by axis) and select
"+ 0.5 in" Hit run, I used a pencil held at the gantry and paper to draw a line, then confirmed that the measurement was 0.5 in. Also tried with "+/- 0.5 in" and confirmed 1" measurement

FORWARD when happy with your Axis X

Repeat for Axix Y but the table travel is 0.0 to 12.0

f)AXIS Z
With data from buildyourcnc.com
Motor Steps per rev 200
Driver Microstepping 16 (as recommended for lead screw)
Pulley teeth 1 ; 1
Leadscrew Pitch 2
Max Vel 2.5
Max Accel 0.5

Table travel 0.0 to 3.5

Test, and FORWARD when happy

g)After configured you can go to
Applications - cnc - LinuxCNC, and there you go...




Additional Information:
... Still think that there should be a tutorial for this part.

Additional Information:
oh¡ Forgot to tell, the config shortcut will be available on our Desktop, launch linuxCNC from there

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I have a BlueChick that came with the 5-Axis Bread-Out Board V5 (parallel port), it has 3xCW230, how to configure it on LinuxCNC?

Sure. If you had your own computer to start with and now need a replacement for it, consider our redSprout and redLeaf systems. You can find information about them here: https://buildyourcnc.com/AssembledElectronics.aspx If you started with one of our assembled systems, and only need to replace certain components, contact our sales department at sales@buildyourcnc.com for a quote.

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Can I get a replacement computer only ? I have a blacktoe with parallel port and it seems to have stopped working.

The THC and the triggering of the plasma are actually two different functions of a controller. To trigger a plasma cutter, you can use one of the outputs of the Mach3 USB controller (out 1, 2, 3, or 4). That output can be connected to a relay that connects to the two wires that will trigger the plasma.

This video will show how this is done:

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[575] How can I wire/ configure for a plasma cutter without THC? Plasma cutter has a cnc port, where when you short two of the pins, it activates the cutter. Just looking to see how to make that short when pressing f5 in Mach3.

When you plug the USB controller into the computer using a USB cable, and the planet-cnc software is running, you will be presented with a dialog box that will contain a text box for the key that you received from the planet-cnc folks.

Additional Information:


Additional Information:
Is there any other software that will work with your controller Mach3? Thanks for the help!

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However it how do I get the software to work? PlanetCNC sent me a key that looks like it will only work with a backup control board I purchased from them?

No, we have gotten away from the planet-cnc boards as they have decided to not support our board with their software. You can use the Mach3 USB board as an alternative. You will be better off with Mach3 as a control software as this is widely used and supported.

Mach3 USB board:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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I have the older discontinued USB breakout board. The y-axis no longer works and have traced it to the breakout board. Is there a replacement board that can use the same Planet CNC software running on Windows 10?

Yes, you can preset an origin by zeroing the machine at the desired location before beginning your work. You can return to that exact point at any time, or you can specify an offset from that point to be the beginning point for the next machine operation (for instance when cutting several parts from one sheet of wood.) Jogging time varies by machine and application but would generally be a rapid move -- our default rapid setting is 400 inches per minute.

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Can you preset an origin point on this cnc? How long does it take to jog over? (If I have the case that I using the same thickness of maple wood, and same jig everytime)?

For safety's sake I would recommend a new board because they are inexpensive compared to the electronics that they support. Alternatively, it's possible that the one dead pin is a simple fix, such as a bad connection or solder joint; if you feel comfortable making those repairs then it could be worthwhile to check. Finally, if you are not using all the input pins, you could continue to operate the limit switch on pin 11 and hope for the best.

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I have a breakout board and it appears that the pin 12 connection has failed: when i move my limit switches to pin 11 they work; they don't work on pin 12. Do i need a new breakout board?

For setting up home proximity sensors on the PoKeys57 board, it's typically recommended to use the designated limit/home terminal or pin. This is because these ports are specifically designed for connecting limit switches or proximity sensors used for homing.

If you've already connected your sensors to the limit/home terminal and they're not functioning properly, here are a few troubleshooting steps you might want to consider:

Check Wiring and Connections: Ensure that the wiring to the sensors is correct and secure. Sometimes a loose connection can cause issues.

Sensor Configuration: Verify that the sensors are properly configured in the software you're using to interface with the PoKeys57 board. This could involve setting the correct sensor type (NPN or PNP), and ensuring the software is looking for the homing signal on the correct pins.

Test Sensors Individually: Disconnect other inputs and test each sensor individually to isolate the issue. This can help determine if the problem is with a specific sensor or the board itself.

Firmware and Software Updates: Ensure that your PoKeys57 board firmware is up to date, and that you're using the latest version of the control software.

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On the pokeys57 board should I use the limit/home plug or just the block next to that plug form setting up home proximity sensors? I have them on the plug now and can not get them to work.

What are the voltage requirements for your proximity switches?

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On the pokeys57 board should I use the limit/home plug or just the block next to that plug form setting up home proximity sensors? I have them on the plug now and can not get them to work.

You will want to connect the homing switches (which may also serve as your near limit switches) to different input terminals. It's ok to add more limit switches with the home switches, but each home should be on independent inputs. For example, connect home X and any other limit switch to IN1, connect home Y and any other limit switch to IN2, and so on. This will allow you to properly use the "ref all home" button in Mach3.

Additional Information:


Additional Information:
In the instructions (diagram 1) you show all the home switches connected in parallel? But here you say they need to each have their own inputs. "You will want to connect the homing switches (which may also serve as your near limit switches) to different input terminals." I dont see how the second and third axis can go home if the first axis has already closed the parallel circuit unless they back off a bit until the switch opens up again before the next axis goes to home? My machine has no limit switches so I assume they are home switches.

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[575] I have finally got my limit switches wired and working - thank you. Can they also used as homing switches and if so it it just a question of looping the two inputs on the board i.e. the limit and home terminals IN2 to IN3

Yes, the Mach3 USB controller will work with the latest Windows version and in 64-bit mode. The 32-bit mode is only relevant for using the parallel port driver if you are using a parallel port breakout board. Since this controller is connected via a USB cable, the 64-bit state will work fine.

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[575] I have a 64 bit Windows 11 laptop. Will this interface board work with this? If not is there an option you can suggest.

If one or more motor is not responding, please follow the troubleshooting directions below:

For parallel Bob only! Make sure both the parallel and USB are connected.

Re-check wiring, and connections for continuity (no breaks in the wires) and check for correct wiring locations from driver to BoB.
Check dip switch settings on the driver.
Check components, by swapping the motors (ex. y-axis motor to z or x-axis driver and z or x-axis motor to y-axis driver) to check if motor functions on another driver.
Depending on software check step low active (mach 3) or invert pulse (planet-cnc) for the axis which is not responding.
Mach 3 - config/port & pins/motor outputs / Planet-CNC - file/settings/axes

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I have an engine NEMA 34 from Y axis on my green bull that do not response, I already check connections and everything seems to be OK, how can I check that the motor it's working properly or not?

You can find instructions for the Mach3 USB here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

You will probably need to use the Mach3 USB board with Mach3. We have not tested the Mach3 usb card with Mach4.

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Whereb can I find directions on how to install the Mach3 USB board with Mach 4 software? I do not have a parallell port.