it is possible to install 2 motors on a single axis but you will require another driver and motor, but wire it directly to the same pins on your breakout board. Also the orientation of your motor since it is opposite side of the original so getting it to move accordingly to the original motor it will need to be orientated correctly. The slight shift could be the cause of the rod not being completely flat where the set screws are suppose to tighten the sprocket to the rod, so sanding it to a flatter surface might fix the shift in directions.
Currently do not have a kit or schematic available.

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Hello, I have a BlackToe 2 x 4 machine. I was wondering if it could be beneficial, or even possible to install two motors on the x-axis (one one each chain drive sprocket). I am noticing a slight shift in the gantry with each reversal of direction. If so, do you have a kit or schematic for this? Thanks

When wiring the limit switches to our BoB(breakout board), depending in the older model or our revised version (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/0/), the older version will need the COM (limit switch) connected to 5V and the NO/NC to your input pin, but with our newer version you will use GND(ground instead of 5V) to common and the same for NO/NC but the setup in the mach3/confi/ports&pins/ is still the same.

Here is a tutorial where you can see how to set up the limit switches correctly (with our older parallel BoB): Part 1:(

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im almost finish with cnc, at this point im on the limit switchs of this build. the question i have is, on the breakboard there are 4 input pins and next to each side is grd, is that the 5v input. i want to install 6 limit switchs and i want to have them on there own pin, i take it that 2 limits each axis gets its own pin and each axis is wired togeather? thanks

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

We apologize for the confusion! The current greenBull kit in the video is a 4' x 8' gB CNC machine, so we currently have a shorter Y-axis length, compared to the 5X/6X kits. However with the gB 5X you should skip every other section(or something similar so it is symmetrical), since we added the option for you to increase the number of ribs if you wish, but is not necessary for the CNC machine.

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Building the 5x10 GreenBull, I went to install the ribs on the mid section of the gantry and you say in the video to skip a spot for the motor to sit, but I have 3 sections that are going to blank not just one like you show in the video. Do I skip more than one, am I missing ribs?

Since you mentioned there is a nasty smell, I'm wondering if there might have been a issue with the power supply. Can you email us your name for the order and specific voltage you are using for the redFly? at techsupport@buildyourcnc.com. Also I want to mention if you have the USB cord plugged in to the redFly if it has the parallel interface board?

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When I first hooked up my redFly and was manually testing all the axes, everything was going well, then my Y axis stopped working all together, and now my X and Z have stopped also and my redFly has a nasty smell coming from it and none of the stepper motors seem to be getting power.

Decreasing the speed of acceleration in the cutter? Meaning of your router/spindle?, To modify the speed of a router will be going to the router itself and modifying the speed, but if a spindle is being used modifying it will be done either manually in the VFD (VFD Setup:
Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequency - Hz)
Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution))<- make sure these are your settings in the VFD. If the spindle is wired to the breakout board and is working through Mach 3 then the modification will be done in your CamBam/Feed rate settings.

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How can I decrease the rapid acceleration of the cutter from a completed cutting operation to a new location so that the stepper motor will not lose its steps and mess up the machine zero settings? I am using CamBam and Mach3 on my machine with a chain drive. what is the best way to reduce accleration

These connectors are not necessary and they are not included in the kits anymore. I have revised the step to reflect this change. The connectors are actually an undesirable addition since that is a point at which the hoses can be disconnected during the machine operation and cause water to drop into the driver electronics.

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In the Blacktooth instruction 90 A pair of coolant hose connectors are to be installed. These didn't come with all the other parts, and aren't on the packing list. Are they really necessary? Could not the tubes just exit through these holes and go to the pump, bucket, or water container?

Your steps per inch will vary. I suggest watching my calibration video.

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I AM CURRENTLY HAVING SOME PROBLEM SQUARING THE GANTRY AND MY STEPS PER INCH ARE NOT 1422.22 ACCORDING TO YOUR CALCULATIONS IN AUTO SET UP THEY COME OUT LIKE 1416.#### THIS A BIG DEAL?

You may want to try using a ferrite core or an inductor in addition to the shielded cable. Also, make sure you are grounding the shield at both ends. Even though this is not high frequency, grounding the shield at both ends in a motor scenario may help. Also, try to reduce any parallel wire runs.

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[575] Hi, I plug HY 220v spindle on the board. It work, but the is a unstable frequency on the spindle. I put shielded wires from BOB to Inverter, and from Inverter to Spindle. But the problem still there. I read that I have to put a Analogue PWM, is that true, or I have problem with my wires... Thank you

Here is how to connect your router to the parallel breakout board through the on-board relay. You will need a spare extension cord. You will need to remove a portion of the outer jacket of the extension cord to expose the white, black and green wires (white = neutral, black = live and green = ground), understanding that the neutral and live create the completed circuit.

See this image of a similar connection. The terminal has the same connections.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/vacuum-pressure-controller-relay-terminals-700.JPG

Image of the relay terminal:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/breakoutboardrelayNONC.PNG

The live/black wire would be cut and one end of the cut would be secured into the P terminal and the other cut end would be secured into the S terminal. The live and ground wire would be uncut and travel from the plug to the router.


Additional Information:
You can also connect other high powered devices to the breakout board using any of the output terminals. You will need to supply extra relays like the one shown here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-breakout-Relays-relay-board-250V-12A-5V

Or you can find SSRs (Solid State Relays) that will accept 5v to drive the relay coil. Make sure the SSR will protect the 5V line from Back EMF as there is a coil in the relay. The one we sell contains a fly-back diode to protect the 5v terminal.

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I have your breakout board with relay parallel port , I have a vacuum, light on router and air pump I want to also hook up to board, can I hook those up to board and also could I had reylays to each one, what is the best way to figure this out any information would be great. Thanks

The 12V power supply has 3 terminals for AC in: N, L and earth ground. The output of the 12V power supply has 2 DC + and - terminals. Cut the connectors off of the ends of the fan and pump wires. Strip the red and black wires of both units. The fan will connect to the 12V power supply red to the + and black to the -. The pump will connect in the same way, but the white is not connected.

If you have a pump that has a grey and black wire on the large connector, the grey is the 12VDC V+ wire and the black wire goes to the V-. The extra wire does not need to be connected.

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I bought a gantry mounted spindle water cooler kit. I cut off the plug terminal on the end. There are three wires and it is labeled as a 12 V DC motor. How do I wire it to the power supply? No combination of connections seems to work. the fan runs fine. it

The 12V power supply has 3 terminals for AC in: N, L and earth ground. The output of the 12V power supply has 2 DC + and - terminals. Cut the connectors off of the ends of the fan and pump wires. Strip the red and black wires of both units. The fan will connect to the 12V power supply red to the + and black to the -. The pump will connect in the same way, but the white is not connected.

If you have a pump that has a grey and black wire on the large connector, the grey is the 12VDC V+ wire and the black wire goes to the V-. The extra wire does not need to be connected.

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I bought a gantry mounted spindle water cooler kit. I cut off the plug terminal on the end. There are three wires and it is labeled as a 12 V DC motor. How do I wire it to the power supply? No combination of connections seems to work. the fan runs fine. it

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

As shown in the instructions the laser tube that was used was a different model which had the metal end, compared to our full glass tube models we currently ship with the machines.
So there is no difference besides appearance between the two tubes.
The focus lens should be placed in the laser nozzle assembly and not on the laser tube itself.


Additional Information:



Additional Information:



Additional Information:

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I bought a blacktooth laser from you about a year ago.. I am finally getting around to installing the laser tube and I noticed that my tube does't have the metal end on it like all the pictures I've seen. is this a focus lense and can I purchase one?

Make sure all your bolts/screws are tighten correctly and if using a lead screw make sure your anti-backlash nut is not offset. Now a default setting will be 10101100 for your driver dip switch settings and in motor tuning (mach3) 1600 steps per, 400.02 velocity, 4 in acceleration. now the acceleration and velocity can be adjusted to move your machine faster, but if set to high they could stall. Make sure you have the correct wiring from your motor to your driver (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM60HT86-2008BF-U%20(inhouse%20PN.60BYGH303-13)%20(1).pdf).

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I have your Nema 24 electronics kit and am having problems with the Z axis dropping over time. I am using a PC 8902 motor. Any ideas on what the problem is? What should be the motor tuning values in Mach3? Thanks

It generally does not matter if it is longer at the other end as long as the lead screw provides the desired travel for that axis. The lead screw will only need to be long enough for the travel, plus any structure and lead-nut positioning.

For example:
- The motor that will turn the lead screw will need to be mounted at some position (generally at one end of the axis). In many cases, this positioning will be mounted where some of the lead screw will not be used (the lead nut will not be able to moved close to the coupling of the lead screw to the motor shaft). Add some of the length of the lead screw to be inserted into the coupling.

- If the lead screw will contain bearings at either end of the travel, that portion of the mechanical assembly will need to be considered in the lead screw length.

- The lead-nut will need to be mounted in a position on a structural member of the part that is to move. The distance from the part of the structure that will extend closest to the motor will have some distance to the position of the lead nut. This distance will need to be added to the lead screw length.

Add these discrepancies to the length of the lead screw and the travel length and you will have the final length.

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How to determine lead screw length needed. My Thomson 1 1:4 rails are 60 inches long roughly for the router I’m building. I know I have to have it long enough to couple up with the stepper motor of course but does it matter if it’s a little long on the other end

If some axes are not moving in two directions, the direction signal is not making good contact at either the controller or the driver.

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I have USB Interface board. All axes are working if using MDI , using program some of the axes are only moving one direction. Example using Gcode X50 Y50 Z50 and then X45 Y45 Z45 then online one of the axes is turning correctly. But also shows on Mach3 screen that all axes are moving correctly.

I am wrong. They are 'X'ed out as not included. There was no notification of when they would ship.

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The White Ant that I've been waiting for arrived yesterday. Today, I discover that the three pieces associated with the extruder tip were not in the package. These are the three pieces directly under the word "White" in your parts page. And, yes, they were checked off as having been shipped. They weren't. I trust you will get them here as fast as you can.

We currently do not have any step down adapters for the vacuum pressure sensor, and would recommend looking at local hardware stores or major online hardware suppliers (ex: McMaster, grainger) . However it is something you will be need to be very specific with, ex: Barb 1/4" Hose ID to 1/8" Hose ID Reducer Fitting. Is something I would recommend when trying to fit a larger tube.

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I am interested in using your vacuum pump controller pressure switch for one of our applications. However, I am concerned about having a proper connection from the 1/16" sensor barb to our vacuum line. Do you carry adapter of common sizes to step down to a 1/16" line? If not, do you know who might? (I have already done some prelim searching with little luck)