Adding a laser tube and supporting electronics and mirrors to larger milling machines is problematic unless a proper mount is provided, as in the greenBull CNC (https://buildyourcnc.com/item/cnc-machine-laser-spindle-combo-head).

The existing larger machines (other than the greenBull CNC machine) are designed to be used as milling machines and the laser will not be able to be easily mounted on these machines. Modifications can be done to accomplish this task, but there is quite a bit of effort needed.

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If a person wanted a larger laser machine than what is offered would they simply mount a laser on one of the larger machines, or is there a problem with doing this?

If you are using Mach3, the setting for the input pin 10 may be enabled as a default for use with the Emergency Stop. If there is no emergency stop on that pin, the reset will trip every time.

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I have the redleaf system for my black toe machine I have wired my limit switches in series NC after setting up in mach 3 I still get limit switch tripped after apply and ok setup can only run if I disable what am I doing wrong

Make sure to connect the motor using the bipolar parallel schema as per the datasheet.

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I also purchased these same motors(3a drive, not the 8.8) nearly a decade ago, they are now being installed on their third life as a CNC wood lathe with C axis spindle control. I never had any perceivable problems wiring them to the diagram, but in recent R+D I discovered a strange thing. I use LinuxCNC, and while going through setup and trying to tweak in the settings for the motors/drives, I found a motor wire identification guide for steppers on the LinuxCNC wiki that gives a different result for which wires go to which terminals on the drives. I have not tested both wiring schemes since I am in the middle of the build and have not yet reached that point. This could be one factor, if the wiring diagram is not actually correct. I always used bipolar parallel. As stated above, I never detected any problems in thousands of hours of run time over two separate machine configs. The other thing I learned recently is that microstepping actually reduces STEP torque by significant amounts, though I can't find any info about its effect on HOLDING torque, if any. 1/16 microstep reduces STEP torque to ~10% of motor rated torque, which can have a significant effect on heavy cuts/fast feedrate moves. I have definitely overdriven my axes by not programming conservatively enough, I do a lot of aluminum routing and hoggy work on hardwoods. There are many other factors in machine builds(resonance, mechanics, etc) that can eat away at the motors ACTUAL real life torque capability vs. its nominal rating. Lot of good info on stepper principles on the LinuxCNC website. My current build has actual ballscrews rather than leadscrews, It will be interesting to see what the performance differences are compared to my other builds. Keep the chips flying!

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[54] I purchased a kit a few years ago with a 36v 8.8A driver and a nema 23 425oz-in motors. I’ve hooked the motors as suggested but they are not holding anything like 425 torque. Please advise.

Has the tube functioned properly prior to this issue?

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I am having issues with the laser firing. Seems like there is an arc in the end of the tube where the elctrode is but i am not sure if i am doing something wrong.

Does your plasma cutter have an external trigger that voltage can be applied to make the trigger engage? If I known, please provide the brand and model of your plasma cutter so we can determine this.

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I converted my blackToe to do plasma cutting. Used the Motor control relay on the break out board and just wired it into the plasma cutter trigger. Put a large pan (like a car oil drip pan) with about 1/4 inch of water on the table and attached fixtures. 400 15ga parts later it's still working great.

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That is so cool!!

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I would like to post a story on your setup and conversion. Do you have pictures of the process and/or the new setup?

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Hello I bought a full setup of parts a couple years ago to make a cnc router and now I have decided that I want to make a cnc router/plasma. I was wondering how to go about hooking up the plasma to the breakout board

The best place to find information and step by step instructions for Mach4 is to use the manuals provided by MachSupport.com.

Here is a link to the PDF manuals for Mach4: http://www.machsupport.com/help-learning/product-manuals/

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I purchased Mach 4 control software and am in need of a very elementary tutorial on set up. I am extremely new to this and need step by step help. Thanks

Your steps per inch will vary. I suggest watching my calibration video.

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I AM CURRENTLY HAVING SOME PROBLEM SQUARING THE GANTRY AND MY STEPS PER INCH ARE NOT 1422.22 ACCORDING TO YOUR CALCULATIONS IN AUTO SET UP THEY COME OUT LIKE 1416.#### THIS A BIG DEAL?

We recommend using an extension cord, or some other 3 conductor power cable, that is at least 16 AWG. Cut the end of the cable off, and then strip to expose the three wires, typically white, black and green. Connect the black to L (called Live), white no N (called Nuetral), and green to the 3rd place from the right, that has the three line symbol for Ground. Our supply has a red switch on the side. When looking at the terminals, it will be on the right hand side of the supply. make sure that you have selected the proper input voltage with this switch. Either 220v (used mainly overseas) or 115V (for typical North American power)

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I bought a 36V power supply through you, and when I connected it to the wall outlet, it measures in the mid to high 70 Volt range. I then bought one on-line, and got the same result. When I test the line voltage, it reads 111V, so I believe the multimeter is working properly. What am I doing wrong?

Can you provide the model number of your VFD?

Yes, I have the "YL600 - 2S - 2K20"

It just came with a small booklet that is all in Chinese...

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I WIRED MY VFD (2.2KW VERSION) AND TRIED TEST RUNNING THE SPINDLE. CONFIGURED TO YOUR SPECS ON THIS WEBSITE, ONLY ISSUE IS WE GOT AN ERROR CODE. ERR 02, DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS? OR HAVE A LIST OF CODES? THANK

There are several reasons why this misconception persists: (1) Less than 1% of people who are vaccinated with the injectable vaccine develop flu-like symptoms, such as mild fever and muscle aches, after vaccination. These side effects are not the same as having influenza, but people confuse the symptoms. (2) Protective immunity doesn't develop until 1–2 weeks after vaccination. Some people who get vaccinated later in the season (December or later) may get influenza shortly afterward. These late vaccinees develop influenza because they were exposed to someone with the virus before they became immune. It is not the result of the vaccination. (3) To many people "the flu" is any illness with fever and cold symptoms. If they get any viral illness, they may blame it on the flu shot or think they got "the flu" despite being vaccinated. Influenza vaccine only protects against certain influenza viruses, not all viruses. (4) The influenza vaccine is not 100% effective, especially in older persons. For more information on this topic, go to: www.cdc.gov/flu/professionals/vaccination/effectivenessqa.htm

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SOME OF MY PATIENTS REFUSE INFLUENZA VACCINATION BECAUSE THEY INSIST "GOT THE FLU" AFTER RECEIVING INJECTABLE VACCINE IN PAST. WHAT CAN I TELL THEM?

Can you test the output of the 5V DC adapter to check the output voltage?

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The 5VDC voltage was generated by a PC ATX power supply and was measured (5.0VDC) just before connecting it to the controller PCB. I also verified polarity prior to powering up.

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Please call us to initiate a replacement of the USB interface. We would also like the existing USB interface to be return so that we can investigate the cause of this failure.

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I connected 5Vdc power to the alternet connector of the USB Breakoutboard with the proper jumper setting and the board fried. What did I do wrong?

Are you referring to the 425 oz-in motor? How many motors and drivers have you connected? If you have connected more than one, are they all sounding the same?

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it's the 650oz motor. but I think I've got the problem solved. The motor tuning was way out of whack.. I hooked up the smaller 425oz motors and they were ALSO acting funny so I knew it was not them. Software.

I'm still trying to find out what the best speeds are, so there is still some stutter and skipping. thanks for the quick response though, much appreciated.

-james

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You will also want to look at your microstepping. Consider determining your expected mechanical steps per inch and desired jog speed (ipm) and you should have fewer issues. Use the formula: (motor steps * microsteps) / (number of inches of travel in one turn). The ipm for pulley or sprockets should be in the 500-1000 ipm range and for 5 start lead screw, in the 100-200 ipm range. The acceleration can be in the range of 10-40 depending on the mechanics and inertia involved.

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If you ask a question here like: what steps per inch should I set my axes? You will get the standard settings for our machines.

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connected 625oz motor using wire diagram, but motor sounds like it's skipping, am I doing something wrong or is this part DOA? I tried every combo of wiring up, some errored the controller, but the ones that 'worked' still sound terrible. Where do I go from here? - thx! -james

See initial question.

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Initial question is: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/FAQ/14009

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Follow up to the last question. I can just make a couple new pieces of acrylic but I just wanted to know if you had any other ideas. Thank you.

Unfortunately, end mills will dull over time and need to be sharpened or repurchased. We do not currently offer any sharpening service, but we have a large selection of end mills you can find here http://www.buildyourcnc.com/ProductsEndMills.aspx

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Hi, I got two different bits I use alot. The 1/16th and 1/32 end mills. I use them alot for making signs. They seem to be getting dull. They are very expensive so I was wondering can you sharpen these bits? Do you have a service to do this? Thank you

The direction wire for that axis is not securely connected. Remove that wire from both terminal ends and reconnect more securely. You may need to completely change the wire just in case there is damage to the wire between the ends.

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'Z' axis, I push the down button the unit goes up, when I push the up button it also goes up. It's been doing this off and on for awhile

Can you provide the model number of your VFD?

Yes, I have the "YL600 - 2S - 2K20"

It just came with a small booklet that is all in Chinese...

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I wired my vfd (2.2kw version) and tried test running the spindle. I configured to your specs on this website, only issue is we got an error code. Err 02, do you know what this is? OR have a list of error codes? Thank you

It is normal for stepper motors to get hot to the touch while not moving. There is a setting on the driver that you can set to half current. This is an idle current while the motor is just in a holding position.

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[54] I have two of these motors, both purchased recently as part of the heavy gantry 3-axis combo. They are warm to the touch when not doing anything. Is this normal? They work when jogged w/mach4

Did you get a manual for your VFD? Where did you purchase the VFD and spindle?

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I bought the VFD through Amazon with a similar spindle that you sell. The VFD came with a manual but unfortunately the spindle had all the model number and specs scratched off of it. In an attempt to set it up, I fried the spindle. I have complained to the vendor and to Amazon but have received no solution. If your spindle arrives with proper documentation I probably can set it up myself.

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What are the configuration settings for VFD for Spindle 1.5kW 110V. The search settings have a link for a 2.2kw spindle so I'm afraid they are the wrong ones and I don't want to fry the spindle. My VFD is an Huanyang HY01D511B.

Ok, sure. Let's get the discussion started. Please respond with your questions on this FAQ

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Hi, I am thinking of making a CNC router that I can use in woodworking. I am very happy if you can help me with the necessary parts for this