We don't have cad models of the HIWIN blocks, but you can find the models on McMaster.com. They have can drawings and models for most of these types of parts.

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DO YOU HAVE CAD AVAILABLE FOR THE HIWIN GUIDE BLOCKS SELL AND RAIL?

We don't have cad models of the HIWIN blocks, but you can find the models on McMaster.com. They have can drawings and models for most of these types of parts.

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DO YOU HAVE CAD AVAILABLE FOR THE HIWIN GUIDE BLOCKS SELL AND RAIL?

Because the USB board is powered by USB (+5VDC) from your PC. Your inputs (eg. limit switches) require up to +36VDC to operate properly.

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[575] Why is a second PSU necessary for the limit switch and e-stop ?

All USB boards, are tested and checked before shipment for all axis, and inputs. Here is a link with clear instructions on how to setup Planet-CNC (http://www.planet-cnc.com/faq/machine_setup/).

Please check continuity and for any crossover disruption when wiring your board, try to wire each as cleanly and with out crossing any live power wires and or motor motion wires.

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I have a usb cnc driver board on your 1'x3' cnc and i cant get the z+ limit switch to stop the machine in the provided software. It registers the button but doesn't inhibit movement. inversly the button works when selected as '-' for negative movement.

You can find the datasheets to our motors be going to the the stepping motor category page https://www.buildyourcnc.com/category/nema and selecting the motor. This will bring you to the product page for the motor and all of the motor information will be found there.

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I would like to design my own CNC router around one of your electronics bundles, either the 3 Axis - Heavy Gantry or 3 Axis - All Large Motors. Do you have the data sheets for the motors so that I can use the dimensions in my model?

Absolutely! You can have almost unlimited limit switches and home switches on this controller. It all comes down to the wiring scheme used. I recommend the home switches be on separate input terminals. For example, IN1 would have the X home switch, IN2 would have the Y home switch and, IN3 would have the Z home switch if you plan on using home switches for the Z axis.

Adding the limit switches, these can be located on any input you want, even on the IN1, 2 or 3. The wiring scheme I like to use is as follows:
- IN1 has the X home, X limit ++, and X Limit --
- IN1 has the Y home, Y limit ++, and Y Limit --
- IN1 has the Z home, Z limit ++, and Z Limit --

In most cases, the Limit -- is the same switch as the Home switch.

These can be wired as NC (Normally closed) as a serial scheme, or as NO (Normally open) as a parallel scheme.

To understand the limits and wiring schemes, check out this video:

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[575] Hi, for the manage the limit switches, is it possible to have, for example, the same limit switch for X-- and X homing? And what is the configuration in mach3? In my CNC machine they are in the same position. Thank you

Currently we do not have that modification kit, our set up is fixed for our greenBull only modification kit we have for this model is the long z-axis kit(Designed for Foam cutting).

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I am building your "Green Bull' 6 foot wide kit and I am at the stage of attaching the motor and drive chain. I would like to know if you have an modification kit available to put the 1/2" ACME screw on the Y-axis?

You can purchase the BobCAD-CAM as a bundle with any of our machines.

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Can you purchase the BOBCAD-CAM software alone, or in with the combination LaserCutter, or is it only available for the price listed in combination with the blackfoot CNC

The eyebolts are used in the squaring of the machine. I would use a standard carpenters square and first run the end mill along the edge of the square to first make it parallel with the long axis. Then run the end mill along the other edge with the short axis and adjust the eye bolts and chain according to the angle that the machine is out of square.

Additional Information:

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DO NEED TO SQUARE UP THE MACHINE AND IF SO YOU HAVE INSTRUCTIONS OR VIDEO FOR THIS?

Actual table dimension: 4'x8' is 56.078"x 121.50" (the overhang in the illustrations should be 3/4" thick)
To determine the frame dimensions, first consider using the frame height shown of almost 3' (2.86'). The width of the frame should be 4" narrower than the dimension from rail edge to rail edge (6X rail to rail is 80.078"). This will provide a 2" overhang on both sides (4X frame width should be 56.078").
The length of the frame should be 4" shorter than the desired length of the rails to provide a 2" overhang on both ends. The travel length will be 20" shorter than the rail length due to the space occupied by the gantry sides.
Two long pieces of 3/4" material will need to be placed on top of the frame with the 2" overhang on the sides and the end. These long strips of material will receive the rails and the chain mounts on the ends.


Link:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-greenBull-v4-4X

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I have just purchased a 4x8 Greenbull system second-hand. Are there any schematics for table dimensions and rail-mounting available so that I can build a table? (previous owner disassembled)

Is this a licensed version of Mach 3? If not and you are currently running the demo version, mach 3 will have only 500 lines of G-code available for cutting. Which will not allow you to cut or move the machine after the first 500 lines.

Additional Information:
Yes, It is a licensed version of Mach 3.

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Mach 3 stalls in the middle of a file and the dwell button is flashes randomly. Can't control motors and have to re-start Mach 3. Any help?

That was one of our older models, which we did not have any specific ground pins on our board, they were not added and we currently updated our board to include them.

For the random triggers for the limits and e-stop, we recommend having these wired separate from any other wires (communication, power, etc), and we recommend shielded cable as well! These will be very sensitive to noise and any interference that might be present.

Our newer model Parallel BoB: https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay

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on the parallel breakout board I have, there are two 5v inputs on the limit swith side and no ground label. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hxeojviveteqq2f/IMG_7947.jpeg?dl=0 I have used an external ground for now but I am getting random limit and e-stop triggers. please advise

If you have an existing PC with a parallel port you will not need to purchase the onboard computer system on the blackTooth laser cutter and engraver. You will want to purchase the blackTooth laser engraver that comes with the parallel interface (breakout board). If you have an existing CNC machine that is being used with this PC, you can disconnect the CNC machine and connect the blackTooth to this PC. You will want to have two configurations for your control software.

Additional Information:
We have a version of the blackTooth that is 110v and 220v. We generally determine which is sent according to the requirements of the customer and in what country they live.

Additional Information:
20

Additional Information:
Parallel Port Configuration BIOS settings and Mach 3.

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Do you need to purchase the Black Toe with integrated computer if you have a dedicated computer to do deisgn and create g-code.

There are many ways to wire an emergency stop switch. The simplest, and arguably the most certain, way is to wire the switch into the incoming power so that throwing the switch kills all power to every part of the machine. Here is a diagram showing how a customer wired such a switch on their blackTooth laser which you could adapt to your needs. http://www.buildyourtools.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4872

Alternatively, you could use an input pin on your USB board. The wiring would depend on whether and how you might be using limit switches (single or multiple switches; normally open or normally closed). Our website datasheet for the USB board is at https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/ and shows how to configure the switches for each set up. If you use this method, you'd essentially wire the e-stop as a limit switch.

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I recently purchased 3 axis electronics with the USB controller board. I'm trying to install an E-stop switch. Where do I connect that on the controller board?

There are many ways to wire an emergency stop switch. The simplest, and arguably the most certain, way is to wire the switch into the incoming power so that throwing the switch kills all power to every part of the machine. Here is a diagram showing how a customer wired such a switch on their blackTooth laser which you could adapt to your needs. http://www.buildyourtools.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4872

Alternatively, you could use an input pin on your USB board. The wiring would depend on whether and how you might be using limit switches (single or multiple switches; normally open or normally closed). Our website datasheet for the USB board is at https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/ and shows how to configure the switches for each set up. If you use this method, you'd essentially wire the e-stop as a limit switch.

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I recently purchased 3 axis electronics with the USB controller board. I'm trying to install an E-stop switch. Where do I connect that on the controller board?

If you want speed control, it is recommended to use the RS-485 connection on the VFD and use the control program such as Mach3 to communication serially with the VFD using this RS-485 connection.

If you would rather use a controller such as the PMDX-107 to simulate the effect of a potentiometer using the Aref, Aout and Agnd and the Rev/Dir and Fwd/Run terminals to control operation and direction, you can connect those to the VFD.

PMDX-107 Aout connects to the VI (analog voltage in). This is like the wiper on a potentiometer.
PMDX-107 Agnd connects to the ACM terminal on the VFD for Analog common.
PMDX-107 COM connects to DCM terminal on the VFD for Digital common.
PMDX-107 Fwd/Run connects to the FOR terminal on the VFD for Forward.
PMDX-107 Rev/Dir connects to the REV terminal on the VFD for Reverse.

Refer to your PMDX-107 manual to correctly configure your dip switch settings and make sure to calibrate (tweak) the speed control using the trimmer next to the terminals on the PMDX-107.

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I purchased the 4.0kw spindle and VFD a while back, and have just installed a PMDX-107 controller... do you have any examples of the wiring connections for the SL-240EE to PMDX-107?

https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-e-stop-button-switch-safety#prettyPhoto/0/

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How do I wire up multiple E-stop to breakout board, does each E-stop need there own pin? If not since there are only 4 screws on stop 2 for no and 2 for nc do you just splice the wires together if your only using 1 pin? Thanks

Roller chain in general is adjustable by using "master links", which are links which have horseshoe clip holding the pin and thus allow connections to be made or broken. The #25 is a designation of the type of roller chain. ANSI codes designate that the first digit(s) specify the pitch in eights of an inch, and the last digit is 0 for standard chain, 1 for lightweight chain, and 5 for bushed chain with no rollers. So #25 is 2/8 = 1/4 inch pitch bushed chain with no rollers.

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IS THE "#25 ROLLER CHAIN" ADJUSTABLE TO ANY LENGTH? LIKE IF I ORDERED TEN FEET OF IT, CAN MAKE TWO 3-FOOT LOOPS AND ONE 4-FOOT LOOP USING SOME SORT CHAIN JOINER?

Roller chain in general is adjustable by using "master links", which are links which have horseshoe clip holding the pin and thus allow connections to be made or broken. The #25 is a designation of the type of roller chain. ANSI codes designate that the first digit(s) specify the pitch in eights of an inch, and the last digit is 0 for standard chain, 1 for lightweight chain, and 5 for bushed chain with no rollers. So #25 is 2/8 = 1/4 inch pitch bushed chain with no rollers.

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Is the "#25 Roller Chain" adjustable to any length? Like if I ordered ten feet of it, can I make two 3-foot loops and one 4-foot loop using some sort of chain joiner?