Strictly to the point. Assuming:
-You have a working linuxcnc install with a compatible parallel port
-You have wired Bread-Out Board V5 to the motor drivers so you know which pins are for which signals(watch video tutorials for that on this site)
-You have wired motors to motor drivers (watch video tutorials for that on this site)

a)We need to know the base parallel port addres, for that you need to input on a linux terminal the command:

#lspci -v

You can scroll up and down the result with page up and page down. Look for a "Parallel Port..." line, the value you are looking for is the "I/O Ports at.." Write them down

To get the Base Period Maximun Jitter, go to
applications - cnc - Latency Test

Now you should let that window running for a while, so it calculates an accurate jitter, go watch the tutorial videos for the connections between the Bread-Out Board and the motor controllers.

After its been running for half an hour or so with the machine in use, write down the calculated jitter values, mine was Servo Thread - 39000

Now close the Latency test dialog

b)Go to applications - cnc - stepconfwizard
"START" - Create a new config
Check - Create Desktop Shortcut to config files
Check - Create Desktop Shortcut to start linuxcnc with this config
FORWARD

c)"BASE INFORMATION"
Fill in a Machine Name that suits you
Bluechick is XYZ on inches
Fill in the Base Period Maximun Jitter with the value obtained in "a)"

FORWARD

d)If you watched the tutorials on a) and b) you know the pin numbers for your signals.
Parport Base Address you need to put the value obtained in a), mine was cf00
Output pinout presets I used Sherline

FORWARD
FORWARD

e)Axis X (chain and sprocket axis)
Data for bluechick from build yourcnc
Motor Steps per revolution 200
Microstepping 64 (that if you followed tutorials, change if you have different)
Pulley teeth 1 ; 1
Leadscrew Pitch 0.444444 (that value comes from 1rev / (.25 in * 9 teeth))
Maximun Velocity 10
Maximun Acceleration 0.5
Home location 0.0
Table travel 0.0 to 34.0 (maybe you want to change this later)

Now, you can do "Test this axis" and jog it (move it!) Try to position everything in the middle (you will be doing it axis by axis) and select
"+ 0.5 in" Hit run, I used a pencil held at the gantry and paper to draw a line, then confirmed that the measurement was 0.5 in. Also tried with "+/- 0.5 in" and confirmed 1" measurement

FORWARD when happy with your Axis X

Repeat for Axix Y but the table travel is 0.0 to 12.0

f)AXIS Z
With data from buildyourcnc.com
Motor Steps per rev 200
Driver Microstepping 16 (as recommended for lead screw)
Pulley teeth 1 ; 1
Leadscrew Pitch 2
Max Vel 2.5
Max Accel 0.5

Table travel 0.0 to 3.5

Test, and FORWARD when happy

g)After configured you can go to
Applications - cnc - LinuxCNC, and there you go...




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... Still think that there should be a tutorial for this part.

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oh¡ Forgot to tell, the config shortcut will be available on our Desktop, launch linuxCNC from there

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I have a BlueChick that came with the 5-Axis Bread-Out Board V5 (parallel port), it has 3xCW230, how to configure it on LinuxCNC?

The USB interface only works with momentary switches unfortunately. If you have extensive knowledge of digital electronics, you can apply a receiver that uses a microcontroller and a transmitter with another microcontroller that produces the pulsing signal with the controls that you need.

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I would like to make a handheld remote for the USB CNC Board using a joystick instead of momentary switches. Could you suggest one that will work with your board.

The files and hardware option for our machines has been removed from the site due to the following reasons:
Difficulty for the end use of the files and the challenges (and time/money) on our side to assist in using these files.
The abuse of these files over the internet.
Ultimately may reduce the sales of machines keeping us in business.
Sadly, this is what has come out of our company attempting to be open; however, the machines sold on this site is still far lower in price than the competition for the quality that we provide as we have a great desire to engender the cottage industry to fulfill their need for low end manufacturing. My sincere apologies if this causes any inconvenience.

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NO, is not possible, I can help with the shipping cost

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IT POSSIBLE TO BUY THE CAD FILES FOR BLACK FOOT MACHINE, MECHANICAL PARTS AND ELECTRONICS BUT NOT WOODEN PARTS, SAVE SHIPPING COSTS? IN THAT CASE I WOULD INSTRUCT SOMEONE MILL ME.

BYCNC Response:
This is correct. You will need to use a method appropriate for the software you are using. Also remember that NC switches are typically wired in series, while NO switches are normally wired in parallel.

User Response:
I am using the cnc planet software for your USB board. Are the limit configurations in this software?

BYCNC Response:
Yes, Planet CNC software is compatible with the use of limit switches. Configuration information will depend on your specific application. You can view Planet CNC's information here: http://www.planet-cnc.com/files/CNCUSBController.pdf

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LIMIT SWITCHES FOR AXIS. THE PRINT SHOWS THAT YOU CAN WIRE LIMITS EITHER N.O. OR N.C. SO IF THIS IS CORRECT I WOULD NEED TO TELL BOARD IN SOFTWARE HOW LOOK AT THESE LIMITS, I'M GOING GET AN INPUT LOOSE DEPEND ON IT.

Prices on amazon are fixed costs for shipping. The website generally reports high costs for international shipments but we can give you a better quote if you care to email sales@buildyourcnc.com

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I want to order 8 Hiwin Blocks. Is there a cheaper shipping option? $70 is too much for something that weighs less than 5 lbs. I live in the continental US.

Prices on amazon are fixed costs for shipping. The website generally reports high costs for international shipments but we can give you a better quote if you care to email sales@buildyourcnc.com

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I want to order 8 HIWIN Linear Guide Blocks. Is there a cheaper shipping option? $70 is too much for something that weighs less than 5 lbs. I live in the continental US

I would suggest using the NPN proximity sensor for the Mach3 USB or the Pokeys57cnc. The proximity sensors have a top DC voltage limit of 30 volts, so it would be best to use the 24V power supply that is used to power the controller. Both controllers have a 24V power requirement, so that is convenient.

The blue wire of the proximity sensor is the GND wire and is connected to the 24V power supply's V- terminal. The brown wire is the positive wire and is connected to the V+ terminal of the 24V power supply. The black wire is the signal wire and is connected to the input terminal of the controller.

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if I wanted to use your inductive proximity sensor's with your USB interface board what would I need besides the sensors I would be using 5 of the sensors.

For safety's sake I would recommend a new board because they are inexpensive compared to the electronics that they support. Alternatively, it's possible that the one dead pin is a simple fix, such as a bad connection or solder joint; if you feel comfortable making those repairs then it could be worthwhile to check. Finally, if you are not using all the input pins, you could continue to operate the limit switch on pin 11 and hope for the best.

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I have a breakout board and it appears that the pin 12 connection has failed: when i move my limit switches to pin 11 they work; they don't work on pin 12. Do i need a new breakout board?

The 2.2kW Spindle has many advantages over a standard router such as the Porter Cable. The most obvious benefit to the user is the significant reduction of both dust and noise.

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What size water source is needed and how long can it be used before it is too warm? Do you have a pressure vs. flow curve for the spindle so I can properly size the water pump?

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I used a small pond pump inside a 5 gallon bucket. I put a little bit of windshield washer fluid in with it to keep anything from growing in it. It's worked great. I've had 1 hour run times with no noticeable increase in spindle temp.

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I am interested in buying the 2.2 kW spindle. Does it run much quieter than a 2 hp Porter Cable router? You also mention a pump with a bucket of water. How long until the water is too warm to cool the spindle?

Yes, you can cut a stack to sheets. I would recommend using a downcut end mill to help in holding down the material. You are correct in your assumption to make sure to keep the holding tabs all the way to the top of the cutting surface.

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2. Can multiple sheets be cut at the same time (say 4 1/16th sheets stacked)? I would assume that full thickness tabs on each sheet must be used to keep cut pieces in place?

We did give out the plans for our machines many moons ago, but a few winters back we had to cease this practice as the night was young and full of terrors. Unfortunately we no longer offer the .dxf files or g-code files for any of our CNC machines.

To build a roll cart for your blueChick, check out the similar cart we created for our blackTooth laser. (https://buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/Tutorial-sketchup-fabrication-fabricate-cad-cam-dxf).

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Many moons ago (when we were all a lot younger) you offered an export plan that consisted of various combinations of hardware/electronics and SketchUp of the CNC machine. Do you still offer SketchUp of your projects? I bought the new BlueChick and would like to build a roll-around cart for it. I might also wish to make modifications so a SketchUp would be most helpful.

I would suggest using the NPN proximity sensor for the Mach3 USB or the Pokeys57cnc. The proximity sensors have a top DC voltage limit of 30 volts, so it would be best to use the 24V power supply that is used to power the controller. Both controllers have a 24V power requirement, so that is convenient.

The blue wire of the proximity sensor is the GND wire and is connected to the 24V power supply's V- terminal. The brown wire is the positive wire and is connected to the V+ terminal of the 24V power supply. The black wire is the signal wire and is connected to the input terminal of the controller.

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Good evening, if I wanted to use your inductive proximity sensor's with your USB interface board what would I need besides the sensors I would be using 5 of the sensors. I have a 48V 12amp power supply. Thank you

The instructions on how to use a plate for z-axis homing (moveable sensor) can be found here:

http://www.planet-cnc.com/faq/moveable_sensor/

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Using your USB control board, is it possible to install and use a Z axis touch plate? If yes, what board connections would it be installed to?

You can control our 40W laser power supply (which controls the laser tube) with an Arduino, if that is your intention. The trigger for turning the laser on and off uses a 5V level. To control intensity, you can use the Arduino PWM output. If you want the Arduino to move the machine as well (providing pulse trains to each of the stepper motor drivers) then you will need to make sure you consider the processing speed of the Arduino so you will be able to run the stepper motors at the speed you need for the laser engraving/cutting.

Our laser controller do all of these functions. Here is a link to our laser control system:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Laser-Control-System



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Thank you! I am building a 3 axis cnc/ engraver and I think this would be a good option as well as the router head and the 3d printing head. How heavy is the tube? I may mount it directly onto one of the axis of the machine to eliminate the need to line up all three axis, similar to what you have with your xl engraver.

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The tube isn't that heavy, but when filled with water, it can get up to a few pounds. The key is to use the axis moving the nozzle for engraving as this requires fast back and forth motion. The cutting is generally dependent on the axes moving from vector to vector at a relatively slow motion, so this is not a problem.

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I would like to build a low cost laser engraver/ cutter, can your 40w laser power supply be controlled with an arduino or is it only controlled by the controller sold here?

Here is how to connect your router to the parallel breakout board through the on-board relay. You will need a spare extension cord. You will need to remove a portion of the outer jacket of the extension cord to expose the white, black and green wires (white = neutral, black = live and green = ground), understanding that the neutral and live create the completed circuit.

See this image of a similar connection. The terminal has the same connections.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/vacuum-pressure-controller-relay-terminals-700.JPG

Image of the relay terminal:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/breakoutboardrelayNONC.PNG

The live/black wire would be cut and one end of the cut would be secured into the P terminal and the other cut end would be secured into the S terminal. The live and ground wire would be uncut and travel from the plug to the router.


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You can also connect other high powered devices to the breakout board using any of the output terminals. You will need to supply extra relays like the one shown here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-breakout-Relays-relay-board-250V-12A-5V

Or you can find SSRs (Solid State Relays) that will accept 5v to drive the relay coil. Make sure the SSR will protect the 5V line from Back EMF as there is a coil in the relay. The one we sell contains a fly-back diode to protect the 5v terminal.

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I have your breakout board with relay parallel port , how can I wire up a regular router to that board so I can control the router

This would totally work for that application. This cable carrier is used for any object that needs to move and carries some electrical or tubing within it. This cable carrier is great for cable management where you want to make sure the wires and tubes are in a position that you set, not where the wires and tubing want to go.

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[311] I am looking to use this type of thing with a pipe for theater. Where the pipe can be lowered and it would have electrical and signal cable inside. Is this good for that or should I look at something else?

Yes, that is highly recommended for all the reasons you can imagine. Say you were doing engraving, not surfacing the spoilboard will either exhibit some areas that have no engraving at all, or areas that have engraving that is too deep. If you are cutting completely through the material, then one end may be cut all the way through but the other end will not have a complete cut, or produce onion skinning on the bottom of the workpiece.

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DO NEED TO GET THE BIG PLANING BIT OR SURFACING AND GO OVER SPOIL BOARD MAKE SURE THAT IT IS PERFECTLY LEVEL IN RELATION ROUTER?

BYCNC Response:
This is correct. You will need to use a method appropriate for the software you are using. Also remember that NC switches are typically wired in series, while NO switches are normally wired in parallel.

User Response:
I am using the cnc planet software for your USB board. Are the limit configurations in this software?

BYCNC Response:
Yes, Planet CNC software is compatible with the use of limit switches. Configuration information will depend on your specific application. You can view Planet CNC's information here: http://www.planet-cnc.com/files/CNCUSBController.pdf

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Limit switches for axis. The print shows that you can wire the limits either n.o. or n.c. so if this is correct I would need to tell the board in the software how to look at these limits, I'm either going to get an input or loose an input depend on how i wire it.

The files and hardware option for our machines has been removed from the site due to the following reasons:
Difficulty for the end use of the files and the challenges (and time/money) on our side to assist in using these files.
The abuse of these files over the internet.
Ultimately may reduce the sales of machines keeping us in business.
Sadly, this is what has come out of our company attempting to be open; however, the machines sold on this site is still far lower in price than the competition for the quality that we provide as we have a great desire to engender the cottage industry to fulfill their need for low end manufacturing. My sincere apologies if this causes any inconvenience.

Additional Information:
NO, is not possible, I can help with the shipping cost

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I was wondering if it is at possible to get a autocadd drawing of the pieces that need to be built for your cnc hardware kit